Who can you completely trust in matters of exterior wood finishing? Of course the Scandinavians! Who else but them, with their pedantry, traditions of wooden house-building and the harsh northern climate, knows better than anyone else everything about outdoor wood protection. In this material we will tell you how to independently weld two iconic Scandinavian compositions, which residents of the European north have been using for centuries to paint the facades of their houses, fences and other buildings.
Scandinavian paints and their properties
Swedish and Finnish compositions have a deep red color and provide a matte finish. They are characterized by an open structure without the formation of a continuous film, due to which the wood retains a “breathing” effect. In the Swedish version of the paint it is less pronounced due to the use of drying oil as a film-forming binder. Iron sulfate provides a fungicidal effect, preventing the development of biodamage agents in the wood. The paints contain a large amount of calcareous pigment, which gives a long-lasting color and protects the wood from destruction under the influence of ultraviolet radiation.
The paint tolerates cracking of wood without any consequences, is resistant to stains, and is easy to renew as needed. The composition includes simple and cheap components, and the cooking process itself is simple and forgiving of technological errors.
Gold plating
Before gilding with gold leaf, you need to prepare a very flat and smooth surface.
I cover the board with gesso primer. I let it dry completely and then sand it with fine-grit sandpaper. After sanding, it is better to smooth the surface with a piece of natural fabric, such as linen. Levskas has an absorbent surface, so you need to cover it with the first layer. In icon painting techniques, where gilding also requires a smooth surface, shellac varnishes are used for this, and here I also use shellac. After this, if any brush marks remain, you can sand and smooth the surface again. Then I apply another coat of shellac varnish.
If you want to get perfect smoothness, reminiscent of an even gold bar, it is better to use alcohol-based gilding compounds. I use acrylic water-based, it won’t achieve perfect smoothness, but you can get another beautiful effect. After the glue has dried to transparency, you can apply gold leaf. I use the classic one.
Ideally, special wide brushes are used to transfer it to the surface. Then the gold leaf will lie more smoothly and evenly. But I think that the resulting cracks and creases have their own charm. Moreover, you can scratch the gold leaf on top with a metal brush (Although I’m sure many would condemn me for this!). According to technology, classic gold leaf is sealed with alcohol varnishes to avoid oxidation. I use shellac varnish.
Falun Red - Swedish antiseptic paint
Falun paint is a source of national pride for the Swedes. Wooden houses and outbuildings, painted in a characteristic dark red color, are the same calling card for Sweden as, for example, Khokhloma painting is for Russia. The name Falu rödfärg paint comes from the copper mine of the same name in the city of Falun, where ore mining began in the 13th century. Naturally, Falun red has received such wide recognition not only because of aesthetics, but primarily due to its low cost and ability to protect wood well from the harsh northern climate.
Swedish recipe
(based on 10 liters of water)
- Rye flour – 1,200 g;
- Iron sulfate – 550 g;
- Table salt – 550 g;
- Natural drying oil – 550 g;
- Iron minium – 550 g;
- Water – 10 l.
It is not recommended to make any changes to the recipe, since each component of Scandinavian paint solves its own important problems.
Rye flour Promotes the formation of a paste that binds the paint components and provides the adhesive properties of the composition.
Table salt Absorption regulator + light antiseptic.
Iron sulfate The main preservative component that provides a fungicidal effect. Widely used in gardening and available at most hardware stores.
Natural drying oil The main binding component of loose particles of the mixture. Drying oil also improves the covering properties of paint due to penetration into the wood structure and subsequent polymerization. Makes the treated surface resistant to moisture and dirt.
Iron minium Coloring pigment. In addition to aesthetics, this component solves another important problem: it protects the tree from the destructive effects of direct sunlight. In the Swedish mixture, the use of other calcareous pigments containing iron (ocher, iron oxide mumiyo, umber) is allowed.
Method for preparing Swedish paint
- In a metal container, heat 2/3 of the main volume of water and add rye flour to it in small portions. All this time, the mixture is continuously stirred to prevent the formation of clots. The purpose of this stage is to achieve a uniform paste consistency. Since stirring the contents of a steaming vat must be done almost continuously, the Swedes use a long wooden paddle with holes.
- Without removing the container from the heat, salt, iron sulfate and coloring pigment are successively dissolved in the mixed paste. Knead thoroughly and boil for 5-10 minutes over not too high heat. The last component added to the mixture is linseed oil.
- The remaining third of the water is brought to a boil and added to the paint until it acquires a paintable consistency (it should be close to thick sour cream).
The paint is used immediately after preparation, applied with a wide brush or roller. The treatment is carried out in two layers without complete intermediate drying. Approximate consumption – 250 g/m2.
One-step craquelure
I paint the primed wood gold. One-step crackle p
is an imitation of cracks in paint that appear over time due to changes in temperature and humidity. The first color is the one that will remain visible through the cracks; you can come up with many interesting options, make it darker or lighter than the main one, use metallics or mother-of-pearl. After the paint has dried, a thick layer of craquelure varnish is applied to the surface.
I leave it to dry until it is slightly sticky to the touch. I take the red color, because I really love the noble combination of red and gold, and with a wide flat brush I begin to paint the entire board.
Very important!
You can apply paint over craquelure varnish only once, so it is important that the paint immediately has sufficient coverage and a well-spreadable consistency. If you try to apply a second layer of paint, it will simply start to roll off unsightly. Let's paint joint to joint! As you can see, cracks appear immediately. After the paint has dried, the craquelure must be covered with shellac varnish.
Preparation of the Finnish composition
Finland has its own variation of the protective composition - punamultamaali (earth paint) or keittomaali (red boiled paint). It is incorrect to consider the Finnish version of lime paint as a complete copy of the Swedish one. Although it uses an almost identical set of components, they come in different proportions. The second fundamental difference is the absence of drying oil.
Linseed oil in Swedish paint is not just a binding component. Penetrating into the structure of the wood and hardening (polymerizing), drying oil creates a thin hydrophobic layer. On the one hand, this is good, because... the tree is protected from moisture. But the risk of fungi and mold damage always remains, and if this happens, the wood will have a hard time. Moisture will accumulate under the hydrophobic substrate, creating a favorable environment for wood-destroying microorganisms. To avoid such scenarios, the Finns excluded drying oil from the paint composition, providing the coatings with an open structure and breathable properties.
Components of the Finnish composition
(based on 10 liters of water)
- rye flour – 800 g;
- iron sulfate – 1,700 g;
- table salt – 400 g;
- lead iron – 1,700 g.
- water – 10 l.
Why rye flour? All traditional recipes include rye flour. It’s difficult to say unequivocally why this is so. It is believed that it contains more gluten and thus produces a better quality paste. But one can argue on this score. The assumption that at one time rye flour was more affordable than wheat flour looks much more convincing. Thus, given that today everything is the other way around, it is quite acceptable to use wheat flour as a thickener.
Finnish composition recipe
- First, mix the paste. Part of the total volume of water is heated over a fire, without bringing it to a boil. Next, gradually add flour and mix thoroughly until a thick “sour cream” consistency is achieved. The mixed paste is removed from the heat and allowed to brew for 30-40 minutes.
- The remainder of the clean water is brought to a boil and poured into the paste. The mixture is thoroughly mixed. If a large number of clots form, additional straining is required.
- The finished liquid paste is placed on the fire and, stirring continuously, all the remaining ingredients are sequentially added: salt, iron sulfate, red lead.
- If necessary, add hot water to bring the paint to a paintable consistency.
Like the Swedish composition, the resulting mixture is applied to the surface of the wood immediately after preparation. The treatment is carried out in two layers without complete intermediate drying. Consumption is approximately the same - 250-300 g/m2.
Toning with varnishes
Another way to give wood a noble shade is to use varnishes.
It is important to sand the wood thoroughly before applying. Shellac varnishes are used in woodworking; they give the wood pleasant golden shades. TAIR has two types in its assortment: shellac alcohol and clarified alcohol. The alcohol varnish in the jar looks very dark, almost like bitumen, but in use it is slightly more golden than the lightened varnish. I show them on one board. I really like the result.
But since I started talking about bitumen, I’ll show that too. The use of bitumen varnish is already in the area of aging. I apply varnish along the edges and the wood immediately looks as if it has been burned. I apply bitumen varnish using a sponge. Bitumen varnish can be removed with white spirit, so if you accidentally drop more bitumen than necessary, it can be easily removed from a varnished or painted surface.
You can apply bitumen varnish directly to wood, but it is very actively absorbed into the wood and cannot be wiped off. Also note that bitumen varnish is very glossy and sticky, it is recommended to cover it with shellac varnish on top. Brushes after bitumen and shellac varnish should be washed in solvents.
How long do Scandinavian paints last?
Wood painted with traditional Scandinavian compositions is repainted on average after 5–9 years . It is difficult to say more precisely, since the service life of the coating depends on many factors: the type of structures being painted, the type of wood, the intensity of exposure to moisture, the climate in the region, etc. In some cases, the paint retains its color saturation for 12 years or more, for example, if it is part of the facade protected by a porch and not blown by the winds.
Swedish paints are more durable due to the presence of drying oil in their composition, which better binds the other components and gives a light hydrophobic film. Finnish paint loses in this matter, but due to its open structure and breathable properties it allows it to better withstand fluctuations in humidity (wood, although it gets wet, also dries quickly). In this case, there is no risk of mold and fungi developing under the film.
Read this article for five more proven ways to treat wood against moisture and rotting outside.
As the paint ages, it loses color saturation and begins to chalk (get dirty). This occurs due to the degradation of the binder, which no longer holds the remaining components. Thus, the coating gradually becomes thinner, but does not peel off. Finishes that have served their purpose are easy to renew - this is another big plus of traditional Scandinavian paint. When re-applying, you do not need to thoroughly clean the surface, just brush it with a stiff wire brush, wash it with a hose and dry it well - after which the wood can be painted again.
Two-step craquelure
Two-step craquelure
imitates cracks that appear in the varnish over time. I will show how to create these cracks without covering the wood with paint or primer so that the texture of the wood remains visible. But, of course, such cracks can be created over a painted surface, or over decoupage, or painting, or even painting.
First I apply several layers of shellac varnish. I took the unbleached one because I really liked it in one of the previous methods. Wood is a very absorbent material, so you don’t even need to take into account the first layer of varnish; it will be completely absorbed. After it, it is better to apply another 3-4 layers of shellac varnish with intermediate drying.
Then, as in one-step craquelure, I distribute a thick layer of craquelure varnish over the surface. I leave it to dry for a day. In the morning, these gorgeous cracks appear in the light. If your room is humid or cool, there may be fewer cracks, then you need to warm the surface with warm air from a hairdryer. Craquelure loves dryness and warmth. To show the cracks, I rub oil paint into them. I cover the craquelure with shellac varnish.
How to properly apply Swedish and Finnish compounds
Scandinavian paints are not very demanding in terms of adherence to cooking technology (however, it is better to use exactly the cooking method described above). But what is really important when working with them is the correct preparation of surfaces and compliance with application requirements. Very often, unsuccessful experiences with using Scandinavian paint are explained not by the properties of the composition itself, but by violation or ignorance of the intricacies of working with them. And there are many such nuances.
Surface preparation
- Paints are applied to rough, unplaned boards without prior priming. The composition does not adhere well to smooth sanded surfaces.
- Homemade Scandinavian compositions are very demanding on the quality of the substrate. They cannot be applied if there is an old paint coating on the wood. It must be removed, and it is better to do this with a stiff metal brush, which during cleaning will “loose” the surface fibers of the wood.
- The boards must be dry, with a moisture content of no more than 15%. Otherwise, the components of the composition will not be absorbed into the wood structure.
- Scandinavian paints do not interact well with resinous wood, since the resin prevents their adhesion. Therefore, it is better to subject coniferous boards and logs to de-resining before painting.
Application requirements
- The paint is used immediately after preparation, but not in a boiling state - it needs to cool slightly. The composition is applied in two layers, without waiting for the previous one to dry completely.
- As the mixture cools, it begins to thicken and become less easy to apply. To maintain paint consistency, it is better to light the fire periodically than to add water, which makes the paint less durable.
- For application it is better to use a large brush. It is not advisable to carry out work when it is too hot outside - traditionally this is done in the afternoon.
Scandinavian paints resist atmospheric moisture well, but are not able to provide adequate protection upon contact with the ground. Therefore, wooden structures that are in direct contact with the soil require additional treatment with antiseptic impregnations. And if we are talking about elements that are buried in the ground, for example, fence posts, then maximum hydrophobic protection is already needed here. Perhaps the most effective solution in this case is bitumen coating.
Tikkurila
Pika-Teho
Matte Exterior Acrylic Wood Paint contains oil. It is used when painting fences, cladding boards, and plank walls. The manufacturer promises 20-year protection from adverse weather conditions (heavy precipitation, UV radiation).
Due to its density and elasticity, acrylic facade paint lasts a long time, is economical to use, easy to apply, distribute, and does not leave smudges. The smell is faint, which can also be attributed to the advantages of Tikkurila products.
If the technician managed to follow all the recommendations, the next layer can be applied after a few hours.
Valtti Color Extra
Glossy paint for wooden facades is oil-based. Tinted azure will protect structural elements from snow, rain, and ice. It can be used to process walls, frames, fences.
Oil paint for exterior use is quickly absorbed and will reduce exposure to UV radiation. Wood enamel is made specifically for processing sawn, planed logs, and heat-treated surfaces. Work is carried out according to the instructions indicated on the packaging.
Brushed firing and metallic patina (dry brush)
I have another board with firing and brushing. By combining firing, brushing and dry brushing, you can achieve different visual effects, lightening the texture of the wood or, conversely, darkening it. And I want to show the metallic patina in this example. I paint the board deep black, using velvet black from the Acrylic De Luxe line.
Metallic paints look best and shimmer on dark surfaces. Next, I take Decolor metallic paints and work using the dry brush technique: I put paint on a brush (it is better to use flat, coarse bristles), wipe off the excess on a napkin and begin painting in the direction of the wood grain.
It is important not to overdo it and stop in time. The result is an elegant metallized coating that emphasizes the wood grain.
