Although the age of high technology is already on the threshold, natural materials are still in demand. Including inch - this is what builders call one of the types of boards.
The name comes from the inch, which is 25.4 mm. Domestic manufacturers omitted tenths of the thickness, but the basic size remained.
GOST is responsible for the accuracy of standard length and width parameters . Let's take the standard as a basis and draw up a reference table. It would not be amiss to provide calculation formulas for finding the amount of lumber and cubic capacity.
Characteristics and typical sizes
Varieties of inch boards
The abbreviation “inch board” appeared due to the fact that the thickness of such lumber is 25.0 mm, and the inch, which is a non-metric unit of measurement of distance and length, is 25.4 mm.
In addition to thickness, the parameters characterizing this material are:
- The initial raw materials are coniferous trees (spruce, pine), as well as aspen and birch. The use of these tree species is due to their relatively low cost and availability.
More expensive species (cedar, larch, oak, beech) are also used in the manufacture of inch wood, if this is due to the need to use more durable material, both for interior decoration and for the construction of building structural elements.
- Width - depends on the geometric dimensions of the raw materials used (diameter of tree trunks).
Woodworking enterprises produce inch boards with a width of 75.0/100.0/150.0/200.0 mm.
- Length - depends on the customer’s needs and the technical capabilities of the equipment on which the board is made.
In industrial production, inch boards are produced in lengths of 2.0/4.0/6.0 meters.
2.Variety of boards
Decking board sizes and types
All inch boards differ from each other in quality, appearance, strength and material from which they are made. 25 mm wood products can be made from various types of wood. The strength and, accordingly, the price of the board depends on the type of wood. More often, the inch is made from common types of wood: pine or spruce. Such products have low strength and cost. They are not suitable for outdoor use or harsh environments.
For extreme operating conditions, expensive but durable products made from cedar, larch, oak, and beech are more suitable.
The strength of a tree can also be determined by the growth rings visible on the cut of a piece of wood. The older the tree, the stronger it is. As trees age, their growth rings shrink.
Therefore, if the rings on the cut are located close to each other, then the board is made of strong, aged wood. If the rings are distant from each other, then the wood is young and fragile.
Wooden products undergo varying degrees of processing, and therefore may vary in the smoothness of their surface.
2.1.By appearance they distinguish:
- Unedged board. It contains remnants of bark and has an unkempt appearance. Used for work where aesthetic appearance is not important. This wooden product is inexpensive.
- Planed wooden product. The side edges with bark are cut off and the product acquires a neat appearance. This type of wood is used for decorative finishing work.
The quality of the product is affected by its grade: boards of the highest grade have no flaws, boards of the lowest grade have cracks, knots and blue stains. In total, there are 5 types of finished wooden products. The scope of their application depends on the quality of the boards. High-grade inch gauges are very expensive and are used only for the construction of sea and river vessels. The first and second grades are used for finishing the interior of buildings or for the production of furniture. And the lower grades, third and fourth, are suitable for construction work and the erection of temporary structures.
When choosing wood to purchase, you need to pay attention to its appearance: it must be perfectly straight. If the product is twisted, this means that it was not dried correctly.
It is better not to buy such products, because they will no longer level out. High-quality timber is also harvested in winter. Therefore, if you need strong, high-quality and beautiful wood, it is better not to purchase another wood.
2.2.Conclusion
When purchasing an inch, do not hesitate to ask the seller for the classification and accompanying documentation. The dimensions of the material differ, so the approach to calculating the required quantity is individual for each case. The edged board must comply with GOST; only in this case can the quality of the construction work performed be guaranteed.
It is unacceptable to use third and fourth grade inch for finishing work. Building fences from first and second grade materials is unnecessary waste.
Classification
Edged board
An inch board can be classified according to two parameters: the type of processing and the class of raw materials used.
According to the type of processing, the inch is divided into:
- Edged - during the manufacturing process, the ends of the board (edges with tree bark) are cut off. In this case, the width is regulated and corresponds to the dimensions given above.
- Unedged - the edges are not cut during the manufacturing process, the width of the board corresponds to the diameter of the original raw material.
Classification by grade of lumber made from coniferous trees is carried out on the basis of GOST 8486-86 “Coniferous lumber. Technical conditions", and hardwood - on the basis of GOST 2695-83 "Lumber of hardwood. Technical conditions".
In accordance with these documents, coniferous wood is classified into 5 grades - selected, first, second, third and fourth, and deciduous wood - into three: first, second and third.
Each grade has standards for limiting lumber defects, such as:
- number of knots and cracks per linear meter;
- structural defects of wood;
- the presence of areas affected by fungus;
- biological damage to wood;
- foreign inclusions, mechanical damage and warping of the board.
Breeds
Two types of twenty-five are common on the domestic lumber market:
- Coniferous.
- Deciduous.
The first category is more durable, since the resins that make up the wood prevent the formation of fungi and mold.
Varieties
Boards are divided into grades from best to worst:
- Selected.
- First.
- Second.
- Third.
- Fourth.
Deciduous inch trees cannot boast of extreme durability. But they are quite suitable for indoor use. There are 3 varieties:
- First.
- Second.
- Third.
Areas of application for inches
Application of inch boards for roofing
As already written above, inch boards are a universal building material that is used in various branches of the construction industry.
Using it, work is performed on:
- Roof construction - as a sheathing and base on which the roofing covering is mounted.
- Construction of foundations - production of formwork.
- Construction of frame houses and buildings - as frame elements.
- Construction of partitions and other enclosing structures (subfloor, ceilings, etc.).
- Manufacturing of various structural elements of buildings and structures (stairs, doors, manhole covers, etc.).
- Construction of fences and other enclosing structures.
- Construction of auxiliary structures for technical and economic purposes.
Inch edged boards made of durable and expensive wood (oak, beech, etc.) are used for interior decoration, as well as in the manufacture of furniture.
Kinds
Edged
The edged board is more suitable for finishing. Where accuracy and presentable appearance are needed. The difference from the unedged one is an even cut not only along the faces, but also along the edges. The material is used to solve the following problems:
- Sheathing of roofing systems.
- Upholstery of walls of frame buildings.
- Creation of stairs.
- Furniture manufacture.
What to look for when choosing
When choosing an inch, as well as any other lumber, you need to pay attention to the following parameters:
- Humidity.
Lumber comes in chamber drying and natural moisture. This indicator determines the possibility of using the board in one capacity or another at different stages of construction and installation work, as well as other areas of application (finishing, furniture manufacturing, etc.).
- Size.
This parameter is important when determining the required amount of material, because Typically, lumber is sold in cubic meters, and this value is the sum of the length, thickness and width of the purchased material.
- Quality.
The reliability of the manufactured structure, as well as their service life, depends on the quality of the material. When purchasing a board, you need to pay attention to the evenness of the cut, the presence of places of damage by living organisms (bark beetle, rotting, etc.), as well as the presence of cracks on the surface. The presence of these wood defects and their quantity must correspond to the declared grade of lumber.
Sometimes, when purchasing an inch, the buyer has two questions: how many boards are in one cube and what is its area?
Wooden beam
Energy saving lamps: types and price, rationale for use
This lumber has a rectangular or square cross-section, a thickness of at least 100 mm, and a considerable length. Almost all load-bearing and enclosing elements in private construction are made of timber.
Type of material depending on side processing:
- double-edged, two opposite sides are cleaned, the rest are left rounded;
- in the three-edged one, three surfaces are cleaned;
- in a four-room beam, all the edges are flat.
The beam can be made from solid wood or glued together from separate parts - lamellas.
The standard length of the timber is 6000 mm; upon request, we can produce material with a length from 2000 to 9000 mm. The length of laminated veneer lumber reaches 18,000 mm. The thickness of the timber varies from 100 to 250 mm in increments of 25 mm. The beam has a width from 100 to 275 mm. At the customer's request, timber of other sizes can be manufactured. A product with a cross-sectional shape of 50 x 50 mm is called half-timber. The most popular material is with a cross section of 150 mm. A house built from which timber retains heat well and does not create excessive load on the foundation.
Area of an inch and its quantity per cubic meter
The area of an inch, as well as its quantity in a cube, depends on its geometric dimensions, or more precisely, on its width and length, so if we consider the option of an edged board, then its area will be determined as the product of these dimensions.
To determine the number of edged inches in one cube, it is necessary to determine the cubic capacity of one board, for which its area must be multiplied by the thickness (25.0 mm), after which, dividing the number “1” by the resulting value, we obtain the number of boards in one cube.
All calculations must be performed in meters to obtain the correct values. When determining the amount of unedged inch board in one cubic meter, the average value obtained by adding the width at the upper and lower ends of the board and dividing this number by two (half the sum of the widths of both ends of the board) is taken as a basis. In this case, the bark and bast are not taken into account in size. The resulting value is rounded to 10.0 mm, and its fractions - to 5.0 mm.
The volume of an unedged inch board 6.0 meters long is usually 0.0294 m³, and there are 34 pieces in one cube.
Volume of different boards
The number of four-meter boards per cubic meter - for different widths and thicknesses - is shown in the table below.
| Thickness and width, mm | Number in 1 m3 | Area covered by 1 “cube” |
| 20×100 | 125 | 50 |
| 20×120 | 104 | 49,9 |
| 20×150 | 83 | 49,8 |
| 20×180 | 69 | 49,7 |
| 20×200 | 62 | 49,6 |
| 20×250 | 50 | 50 |
| 25×100 | 100 | 40 |
| 25×120 | 83 | 39,8 |
| 25×150 | 66 | 39,6 |
| 25×180 | 55 | 39,6 |
| 25×200 | 50 | 40 |
| 25×250 | 40 | 40 |
| 30×100 | 83 | 33,2 |
| 30×120 | 69 | 33,1 |
| 30×150 | 55 | 33 |
| 30×180 | 46 | 33,1 |
| 30×200 | 41 | 32,8 |
| 30×250 | 33 | 33 |
| 32×100 | 78 | 31,2 |
| 32×120 | 65 | 31,2 |
| 32×150 | 52 | 31,2 |
| 32×180 | 43 | 31,2 |
| 32×200 | 39 | 31,2 |
| 32×250 | 31 | 31 |
| 40×100 | 62 | 24,8 |
| 40×120 | 52 | 25 |
| 40×150 | 41 | 24,6 |
| 40×180 | 34 | 24,5 |
| 40×200 | 31 | 24,8 |
| 40×250 | 25 | 25 |
| 50×100 | 50 | 20 |
| 50×120 | 41 | 19,7 |
| 50×150 | 33 | 19,8 |
| 50×180 | 27 | 19,4 |
| 50×200 | 25 | 20 |
| 50×250 | 20 | 20 |
The consumer often gets rid of the detailed calculation or simplifies it - just use the above values. However, the sequence of calculations is valid for all lumber and solid wood of the same type. The degree of drying and the type of wood do not affect either the size of the board or the conversion scheme. The values from this sample allow you to approximately navigate the mass of the cube of such a board.
If you carry out an on-site inspection - in a warehouse, or upon acceptance directly at the site - a small amount (up to a few percent of the total volume, weight and number of copies) will be rejected, for example, due to cracks, an abundance of knots falling out of the board, poor quality treatment of surface layers of wood. Edged boards are often ordered in quantities one tenth more than the value specified in the project. For an unedged board, this “overkill” will be up to 20%. If this rule is not followed, the delivery of the completed project will be delayed, and the contractor will incur additional costs for the delivery of wood materials.
Description
The principle of operation of adhesive meters is based on the method of measuring the level of pressure required to tear off a section of coating from the base of the material. The test element supplied is attached to the coating to be measured using adhesive (the coating can be cut around the test element if this is prescribed by the standard or measurement procedure). The instrument stem is placed in the hole in the center of the test element, and the test element is clamped with a quick-release coupling. When the adjustment handle is rotated clockwise, the rod presses against the base under pressure and tries to separate the coating with the glued test element from the surface of the base. Simultaneously with the rotation of the adjustment knob, the pressure level on the test element is shown on the pressure gauge. When the pressure level exceeds the adhesion level of the coating, the test element and coating are separated from the substrate. During testing, the maximum hydraulic pressure is recorded, which is equivalent to the degree of adhesion of the coating to the base.
Structurally, adhesive meters consist of a rod, a coupling, a handle for adjusting the pressure level and a pressure gauge, combined in a single housing. Depending on the measurement range and type of pressure gauge, adhesive meters have two modifications: ELCOMETER 108 with a dial-type pressure gauge and ELCOMETER 108 with a digital type pressure gauge. The pressure level adjustment handle is made in the form of a handle for turning by hand.
Photographs of adhesive meters are shown in Figure 1, at the top - with a dial-type pressure gauge, at the bottom - with a digital-type pressure gauge.
Adhesion meters are used for monitoring and diagnostics of especially critical energy facilities, oil and gas industries, transport and other industries.
Total sheets 3
Pin/dowel connections
Wooden dowels - today they are increasingly called dowels - can be used to strengthen the connection. These insertable round tenons increase shear (shear) strength and, due to the adhesive, secure the assembly more reliably. Dowel joints can be used as frame joints (furniture), box joints (cabinets) or for joining/splicing (panels).
Assembling the dowel connection
1. Carefully cut out all components to the exact dimensions. Mark the position of the crossbar on the face and clean edge of the post.
2. Mark center lines for the dowels at the end of the crossbar. The distance from each end should be at least half the thickness of the material. A wide crossbar may require more than two dowels.
Mark the center lines for the dowels at the end of the crossbar and use the square to transfer them to the rack.
3. Lay the rack and bar face up. Using the square, transfer the center lines to the stand. Number and label all connections if there is more than one pair of posts and crossbars.
4. Transfer these markings to the clean edge of the post and the ends of the crossbar.
5. From the front side, use a thicknesser to draw a line in the center of the material, crossing the marking lines. This will mark the centers of the holes for the dowels.
Use a thicknesser to draw a center line, crossing the marking lines, which will show the centers of the holes for the dowels.
6. Using an electric drill with a twist drill bit or a hand drill with a spade bit, drill holes in all the parts. The drill must have a center point and scorers. The hole across the fibers should have a depth of approximately 2.5 times the diameter of the dowel, and the hole in the end should have a depth equal to approximately 3 times the diameter. For each hole, make an allowance of 2 mm; the dowel should not reach the bottom by this distance.
7. Use a countersink to remove excess fibers from the top of the holes. This will also make it easier to install the dowel and create space for the adhesive to secure the joint.
Nageli
The dowel must have a longitudinal groove (now standard dowels are made with longitudinal ribs), along which excess glue will be removed when assembling the joint. If the dowel does not have a groove, then plan it flat on one side, which will give the same result. The ends should be chamfered to facilitate assembly and prevent damage to the hole by the dowel. And here, if the dowels do not have a chamfer, make it with a file or grind the edges of their ends.
Using centers to mark dowels
Mark and drill the crossbars. Insert special dowel centers into the holes for the dowels. Align the crossbar with the post markings and press the pieces together. The points of the centers will make marks on the stand. Drill holes through them. As an alternative, you can make a template from a wooden block, drill holes in it, fix the template on the part and drill holes for dowels through the holes in it.
Using a conductor for a dowel connection
A metal jig for dowel connections greatly facilitates marking and drilling holes for dowels. In box joints, the jig can be used at the ends, but it will not work on the faces of wide panels.
conductor for pin connections
1. Mark center lines on the front side of the material where the dowel holes should be. Select a suitable drill guide and insert it into the jig.
2. Align the alignment marks on the side of the jig and secure the movable support of the guide bushing.
3. Install the jig onto the part. Align the centering notch with the center line of the dowel hole. Tighten.
4. Install a drill depth stop on the drill in the required location.
Rally
To obtain a wider wooden part, you can use dowels to connect two parts of the same thickness along the edge. Place two boards with their wide sides together, align their ends exactly, and clamp the pair in a vice. On the clean edge, draw perpendicular lines to indicate the center lines of each dowel. In the middle of the edge of each board, use a thicknesser to score marks across each previously marked center line. The intersection points will be the centers of the holes for the dowels.
The nail joint is neat and durable.
Overview of varieties
The classification includes 5 types of planed boards, including the highest class. Each has significant differences. Below are descriptions of each of them.
Extra class
This is one of the varieties of dry edged boards, which is the highest quality type.
It is used to decorate the interior parts of buildings and premises, and is used in furniture production, as well as in the construction of navigable elements, for example, deck parts or yacht masts, and in automobile production. The most expensive class, which comes from coniferous species.
Maximum permissible crack size: 16% in relation to the length of the board, no more than 10% in relation to the depth. The deflection cannot be more than 1%. It is quite difficult to find a board of this type among the products of the domestic construction market, since it is exported abroad.
Sometimes such wood is called grade zero lumber. These boards are free of defects caused by rot, do not have through holes, residues of parasites, or mold elements. Wood of this type cannot have any knotty formations, breaks, cracks or defects from shrinkage, as well as bark residues. They, as a rule, look great, ideally shaped, smooth, without irregularities or roughness, which is what distinguishes them from other varieties.
However, there are a number of reasons why such material is practically unavailable.
- The highest requirements are imposed on the “zero” class variety. It is usually an export material and also a material for high-end construction projects.
- The cost is much higher than other types of wood.
- Due to the difference in domestic and foreign measures and weights, as well as the production of the product for export, when used in Russia, there may be some dimensional inaccuracies.
Among the “zero” class wood products you can find such as lining, floorboards, imitation timber, boards for decks or terraces, planks and others.
1
First-class goods are quite in demand and sold. They contain a minimum number of cracks, knotty formations and other defects. Naturally, first-grade boards have a minimal amount of damage from rot, mold and parasitic defects, fungal stains, blue stains and others. A single number of defects is allowed.
Defects caused by fungal infection cannot be more than 10% of the entire surface. The presence of rot is unacceptable. A small wane of a blunt type is allowed. Curvature at the extra-class level. The moisture content of the material is no more than 20-22% with an error of 3%.
The integrity of the first class edged board does not change. This product is intended for frame, staircase, door, frame and installation types of construction.
2
Second-class items include products that have minor flaws. These shortcomings should not spoil the appearance of the product. Deep cracks, rotten knots and rotten formations are prohibited. Knots may be loose, with a diameter of no more than 20 mm. Blue and moldy parts occupy up to 20% of the surface.
The scope of application of products of this type is very, very wide, because it has the most comfortable price-quality ratio. From this class of wooden materials you can build panels and work with sheathing.
3
Third-grade lumber is of lower quality than other grades. They are mainly used to make box-shaped products for packaging, some types of containers, pallets and flooring. The only requirement that is placed on them is the absence of large knots, completely fused, as well as large and voluminous cracks.
Edged third-grade board products may have the same moisture content as the first and second grades.
It is important that externally there may be certain flaws, and in general there can be quite a lot of them. However, under no circumstances should there be rotten formations
4
The cheapest class of lumber, which involves a large number of defects. Acceptable defects: roughness, general putrefactive damage, fused knots, the presence of mold. These boards are commonly used for making containers, rough construction work, making boxes and other things. They are also often used for the construction of temporary fences and fences, sheds and utility blocks.
Why do you need a bypass?
circulation pumps provide natural circulation without turning off the heating system
Basically, a bypass is an element of a single-pipe heating system. Such a system has a number of advantages, the main one being inexpensive installation, and a large number of significant disadvantages. Installing a bypass allows you to minimize the disadvantages of a single-pipe heating system. By design, a bypass is a pipe jumper connecting the “return” to the supply pipeline. A jumper is installed in the immediate vicinity of the radiator and two ball valves are mounted on it. This allows hot water to pass from the supply pipe to the return pipe, bypassing the heating device, thereby adjusting the temperature in the room.
How many linings are there in a cube? A simple calculation method using the 5th grade math formula
From my own experience, I can say that for domestic needs, 1 m3 of lining is enough for about 75-80 m2; taking into account the cuts, it will be possible to cover about 70 m2 of “usable area”. Naturally, this dimensional guideline is very approximate and I recommend that you perform the necessary calculations yourself, taking into account your individual task.
Now you will see that it is very easy. Any search engine will kindly remind you of the formula for the volume of a rectangular parallelepiped from 5th grade mathematics:
Let our lining have dimensions: Width 85 mm, Thickness 18 mm, Length 3 m
We calculate the volume of one board V1 = 0.018m*0.085m*3m=0.00459 m3 Quantity in one cube, pcs N= 1/0.00459= 218 pcs
Attention: In the calculations we use the “useful” width of the lining, without taking into account the size of the tongue-and-groove connection, as the lining boards will be packed end-to-end. To calculate the area that we can cover with 1 m3 of lining, we calculate the area of one board S1 = 0.085 m * 3 m = 0.255 m2 We take the number of boards calculated above and multiply by the area of one board S = 218 pcs * 0.255 m2 = 56 m2
To calculate the area that we can cover with 1 m3 of lining, we calculate the area of one board S1 = 0.085 m * 3 m = 0.255 m2 Take the number of boards calculated above and multiply by the area of one board S = 218 pcs * 0.255 m2 = 56 m2
Subtract 10% for trimmings: 56 m2-6 m2 = 50 m2
In total, 1 cube of board measuring 85*18*3000 mm is enough to cover a wall with an area of 50 m2.
Tabular determination of the amount of lumber
To determine how many boards are in 1 cube, the calculation table contains columns and rows. The lines indicate the cross-section of the lumber, and the columns (rows) show the calculated values of the volume of one board and the number of boards in one cubic meter. In principle, these values are obtained by calculation, but taking into account correction factors. Let's consider a cutting (part) of the table of how many boards are in 1 cube. In this case, the symbols correspond to those used in the above formulas.
Table for calculating the number of boards in 1 cube
| Board size | Number of pieces per 1 m³ |
| 25 x 100 x 6000 | 66 |
| 25 x 150 x 6000 | 44 |
| 25 x 200 x 6000 | 33 |
| 30 x 100 x 6000 | 55 |
| 30 x 150 x 6000 | 37 |
| 30 x 200 x 6000 | 27 |
| 40 x 100 x 6000 | 41 |
| 40 x 150 x 6000 | 27 |
| 40 x 200 x 6000 | 20 |
| 50 x 100 x 6000 | 33 |
| 50 x 150 x 6000 | 22 |
| 50 x 200 x 6000 | 16 |
Table for calculating the amount of timber in 1 cube
| Beam size | Number of pieces per 1 m³ |
| 25 x 50 x 3000 | 266 |
| 30 x 40 x 3000 | 277 |
| 30 x 50 x 3000 | 222 |
| 40 x 40 x 3000 | 208 |
| 50 x 50 x 3000 | 133 |
| 50 x 50 x 6000 | 66 |
| 50 x 70 x 3000 | 95 |
| 100 x 100 x 6000 | 16 |
| 100 x 150 x 6000 | 11 |
| 100 x 200 x 6000 | 8 |
| 150 x 150 x 6000 | 7 |
| 150 x 200 x 6000 | 5 |
| 200 x 200 x 6000 | 4 |
Calculation table for non-standard boards and timber
| Non-standard timber | Number of pieces per 1 m³ |
| 90 x 90 x 6000 | 20 |
| 90 x 140 x 6000 | 13 |
| 90 x 190 x 6000 | 9 |
| 100 x 250 x 6000 | 6 |
| 100 x 300 x 6000 | 5 |
| 140 x 140 x 6000 | 8 |
| 140 x 190 x 6000 | 6 |
| 150 x 250 x 6000 | 4 |
| 150 x 300 x 6000 | 3 |
| 190 x 190 x 6000 | 4 |
| 200 x 250 x 6000 | 3 |
| 200 x 300 x 6000 | 2 |
| 250 x 300 x 6000 | 2 |
| 300 x 300 x 6000 | 1 |
| Non-standard board | Number of pieces per 1 m³ |
| 22 x 90 x 6000 | 84 |
| 22 x 140 x 6000 | 54 |
| 22 x 190 x 6000 | 39 |
| 25 x 250 x 6000 | 26 |
| 25 x 300 x 6000 | 22 |
| 30 x 250 x 6000 | 22 |
| 30 x 300 x 6000 | 18 |
| 35 x 90 x 6000 | 52 |
| 35 x 140 x 6000 | 34 |
| 35 x 190 x 6000 | 25 |
| 40 x 250 x 6000 | 16 |
| 40 x 300 x 6000 | 13 |
| 45 x 90 x 6000 | 41 |
| 45 x 140 x 6000 | 26 |
| 45 x 190 x 6000 | 19 |
| 50 x 250 x 6000 | 13 |
| 50 x 300 x 6000 | 11 |
| 60 x 100 x 6000 | 27 |
| 60 x 150 x 6000 | 18 |
| 60 x 200 x 6000 | 13 |
| 60 x 250 x 6000 | 11 |
| 60 x 300 x 6000 | 9 |
| 70 x 100 x 6000 | 23 |
| 70 x 150 x 6000 | 15 |
| 70 x 200 x 6000 | 11 |
| 70 x 250 x 6000 | 9 |
| 70 x 300 x 6000 | 7 |
| 80 x 100 x 6000 | 20 |
| 80 x 150 x 6000 | 13 |
| 80 x 200 x 6000 | 10 |
| 80 x 250 x 6000 | 8 |
| 80 x 300 x 6000 | 6 |
Any construction work begins with a design and estimate, which involves calculating the amount of materials. Edged boards are one of the most popular materials from the range of timber trading enterprises. The basic unit of measurement for any lumber is 1 m3
However, it is important for the end user to know the number of boards in a cube of a certain length and thickness
How to determine?
Information about the dimensions of the board must be indicated on the packaging.
For materials made according to GOST, their type, grade and type of wood, dimensions, and standard number are indicated. However, when purchasing, you must take measurements to make sure that the wooden blank meets the declared characteristics, in particular, the desired level of humidity. Uncalibrated boards (these are edged, unedged and planed boards) may vary in size within a batch, and if you need to sort them accurately, you do it yourself. Therefore, when purchasing, you must have a tape measure with you. The thickness of lumber is determined according to certain rules:
- it is measured as the distance between two layers;
- measurements are made with a tape measure, ruler or caliper;
- measurements can be taken anywhere in the material, but no closer than 15 cm from the edge;
- the thickness of unedged materials is measured without taking into account the bark.
Rules for caring for a satin ceiling
In order for the ceiling to serve for at least 10 years without losing its original appearance, you need to follow simple maintenance rules:
- in order to avoid deformation of the canvas, it is necessary to exclude sudden changes in temperature, overheating and freezing of the room;
- Do not expose the satin ceiling to strong impacts, and do not use sharp objects near it;
- the lampshades of installed lamps should not come into contact with the surface of the canvas; it is allowed to use only low-power lamps to prevent overheating of the material;
- cleaning of satin ceilings is carried out with liquid detergent and a soft sponge; the use of abrasive and aggressive chemical powders is prohibited, since even minor damage contributes to the destruction of the material; to avoid streaks after washing, use a dry non-woven cloth.
By following these simple rules, beautiful and practical stretch fabrics will delight you with their appearance for many years, creating coziness and comfort in your home.
Wood sawing
A common feature of all materials obtained by sawing is the presence of at least two planes parallel to each other. In the specialized literature they are usually called layers.
Long longitudinal ends are called edges; no additional terms are used to name short transverse ends. The places where the faces, edges and ends meet are called ribs.
The main importance for shaping the appearance of lumber is the type of wood, the quality of wood raw materials, and sawing technology. The process is carried out with tools and equipment in the following areas:
- along the longitudinal axis;
- perpendicular to the main axis;
- at an acute angle relative to the longitudinal axis;
- in a tangential direction with respect to the core rays.
Sawing in a perpendicular direction is actually carried out along the radii of the ends of the logs, which is why it is often called radial. Sawing at an acute angle to the axis of the core leads to the formation of a special pattern on the faces, which is popular when decorating houses in the ethnic style. Therefore, the process is often defined as rustic, which is Latin for “very simple” or “rustic.”
If the acute angle of the sawing plane is strictly 45° relative to the longitudinal axis of the core, then the type of sawing is called semi-radial.
