How to apply stain. DIY stain application

A material such as wood has always been in demand, since it is a natural material and no newfangled plastics can compete with it in the ability to create an atmosphere of comfort and warmth in a room. But, like any other material, wooden products require protection and care.

For these purposes, special stains and varnishes are used. Treating wood with such means not only protects it from excessive exposure to light, moisture, scratches, and dirt, but also gives it nobility and sophistication.

Kinds

Today in construction stores you can find the following types of stains:

water based;
oil based;
wax and acrylic;
alcohol

Water

This is the type of stain that is used most often. This impregnation is available either in the form of a powder, which must be diluted with water, or in a ready-to-use form.

Aqueous solutions are characterized by a wide palette of shades, but shades of red still predominate (from the darkest, most saturated to light). The surface treated with this impregnation is resistant to abrasion. In addition, water impregnations are the most environmentally friendly.

However, water-based stains also have some disadvantages: they are mainly suitable for indoor use; promote swelling of wood making it more susceptible to moisture. To avoid excessive saturation of the wood with liquid, it is recommended to coat the surface with varnish before staining with water stains.

Oily

Using oil-based stains, you can highlight the wood grain well. The palette is extensive and allows you to choose the most suitable color for the interior.

Oil solutions are an excellent means of protecting wood from rotting. They apply easily, dry quickly and do not lift wood fibers. This product does not fill the wood with moisture and lies evenly on the surface. Another advantage is that the surface coated with oil stain does not fade when exposed to sunlight.

Among the disadvantages of oil-based stains, it is worth highlighting their low toxicity and long drying time compared to water stains.

Alcohol

Just like water-based types of stains, alcohol stains are produced either in finished form or in powder form for dilution in denatured alcohol. This product dries quite quickly. For this reason, working with an alcohol solution is quite difficult; it requires experience and certain skills.

Due to the speed of drying, the product is often used for exterior decoration. Treating wood with alcohol stain protects against moisture and ultraviolet radiation.

The main disadvantage of alcohol stains is the pungent odor. When working with the material indoors, it is necessary to ensure effective ventilation.

Acrylic and wax stains

Acrylic (or nitro stain) and wax were developed not so long ago, but are in demand among modern owners of houses and apartments making renovations. These are two completely different types of stains, but their properties are very similar.

First of all, it is worth highlighting the excellent protection against moisture when treating wood with such a stain. This is explained by the fact that when the product is applied to the surface, a thin film is formed. Also, when choosing a wax or nitro stain, you can be sure of the uniformity of the shade of the treated area. The structure of the tree becomes clearly defined.

The disadvantages of these types are: the inability of wood to “breathe” and the difficulty of working with the material due to its rapid drying.

How to prepare wood for processing

Treating wood with stain is not such a simple process as it may seem to an ignorant person. To achieve the desired result, it is necessary to take into account some of the subtleties and nuances of this procedure, and also perform all stages of staining in order.

First you need to choose a color, a suitable composition of the solution and tools for applying it. For quick-drying compounds, you need to prepare a spray gun or other sprayer. You can work with oil, water or acrylic stains with a brush, sponges, or swabs. It all depends on the size of the surface to be finished and the expected effect.
Preparing a wooden product for painting involves drying the new surface or cleaning the old surface from the previous finish to the body of the wood. The dry product must be carefully treated with sandpaper or a grinding machine. To avoid the appearance of new defects, movements should be carried out along the fibers. Scratches, dents, and chips on an untreated surface may be inconspicuous, but after covering with wood stain they appear quite noticeably.
By grinding the surface being treated is brought to a completely smooth state. Then the dust and removed fibers are removed. To do this, you can use a vacuum cleaner or a soft cloth.
The next stage is degreasing, most often performed with white spirit.
Before applying the base composition, especially water stain, the product must be moistened with clean water. And sand again.

Some nuances occur when preparing coniferous wood products for working with stains, especially those with high resin content. The fact is that after applying the stain, resinous areas can appear through the coating in ugly spots. It is best to first rid such wood of such manifestations. To do this, use one of the compositions:

an aqueous solution of acetone, for this purpose mix 750 g of water and 250 g of acetone;
a soda mixture consisting of one liter of warm water, 60g of soda ash and 50g of potash (potassium carbonate).

To get rid of the resin completely, the treatment must be performed several times. Then rinse the product thoroughly with soap and then with clean water. Dry and then carry out traditional preparation for staining.

Features of the composition for painting

Whether you need to repair old doors or give new ones a different look, choosing the right paint product is very important. The quality and service life of a wooden door depends on it. Let's look at the most common means.

Varnishes – colored, glossy or matte. Their main property is that the structure of the wood will definitely be visible under the layer of substance. If you have completely restored the door, then varnishing is unlikely to be suitable, since all the defects and subtleties of processing will be visible. There are several varnish options:

oil based;
alcohol varnish;
polyurethane;
solvent-based nitrovarnish.

The latter type is not suitable for use on wood: the composition of this varnish has a bad effect on wood. But polyurethane varnish is durable and resistant to mechanical damage, so it is perfect for our task, although it is quite expensive.

The choice of varnish or paint depends on the type of door and its location in the room

If painting with varnish is not suitable for you, turn to paints. Their choice on the modern market is huge both in color and composition, and it will not be difficult for you to give the door any look. Paints can be matte, glossy or emphasizing the wood structure

The main thing is to pay attention to what base the product is made of - oil or alcohol. Nitro paint is also suitable

There are also oils containing wax intended for painting wooden surfaces. This product can be transparent or colored; it will give the wood a soft silky feel. The disadvantage of this material is its high cost.

Compositions for different types of doors

When choosing a paint product, pay attention to the condition of the door leaf. As already mentioned, for an old door that had to be restored, a varnish coating under which the entire surface is visible is absolutely not suitable

In this case, it is better to use paint. The varnish will look good on the new door.

The modern market offers a large selection of paints and varnishes for wooden doors

There are 2 types of paints and varnishes most often used in such work.

Acrylic compositions on a water-dispersion basis. They are easy to apply and adhere well, as if covering the surface with a thin layer of plastic. There is no pungent odor when drying.
Alkyd paints and solvent-based varnishes. When painting, they penetrate deep into the wood structure and dry quickly. They withstand temperature fluctuations and have a water-repellent effect. The disadvantages include a strong odor when drying.

Taking these points into account, we can conclude that acrylic compositions are well suited for interior doors and dry rooms. Alkyd paints are best used on entrance doors or in damp rooms

If you plan to paint the door one color, then the choice of coloring material will be based on the above criteria

But if you have a door leaf with a design, take into account the following:

matching the color of the floor, wall cladding, furniture;
antique decor or a certain style - high-tech, country, etc.;
contrast of individual parts (relevant for paneled models);
wood structure;
applied drawing. This diagram will help you choose the type of wood by color

Please note: paints must be applied to a completely dry surface. Otherwise, the paint layer on damp wood will begin to peel and flake off.

How can I remove stain?

Since stains have the property of deep penetration of the dyes in their composition (often these are natural materials such as manganese, tea, nuts, etc.), it is quite difficult to remove it from surfaces.

If we talk about aqueous solutions, then from the name it is clear that they can be washed with water. But it is worth noting that only the top layer can be washed off. Dyes that have penetrated into the surface texture are quite difficult to remove.

If the skin of your hands gets dirty during work, then you can clean it by following simple advice: you just need to wash something by hand (the same clothes, for example, also stained with stain).

It will not be possible to completely remove stains from clothing. But its condition can be improved by using oxygen bleaches. To do this, apply bleach mixed with water to a pasty consistency onto the stain and leave for at least 20 minutes. After that, wash in the washing machine.

If stain gets on linoleum, stains can be removed with acetone or white spirit. However, when working with them you need to be careful and not overuse, so as not to spoil the color of the linoleum even more.

Domestos is also a fairly effective remedy for removing stains from wood stains.

What is wood stain updated: December 27, 2017 by: RR

To better protect the wood flooring and extend its service life, it is recommended to treat it with stain. This impregnation penetrates deeply into the pores of the wood and enters into a chemical reaction with tannins located in the growth rings, giving the wood a light- and water-resistant color.

In addition, stain protects the wood

from borer beetles, mold fungi and other infections and pests. Modern liquid stains come in the following types:

oil;
alcohol;
aquatic.

Let us consider their characteristic properties in more detail.

Water stain

This impregnation comes in two types: in the form of ready-made solutions that can be used immediately, and in powder form. A solution should be prepared from it. Water stain does not require drying oil

, white spirit and other solvents.

However, it has one significant drawback: when the impregnation penetrates into the wood, it lifts its fibers

, as a result of which the tree remains unprotected from excess moisture.

But, on the other hand, with the help of such wood processing, its structure is emphasized and highlighted. Therefore, today this type of stain is considered the most common.

Alcohol stain

This impregnation is a solution of aniline dye in ethyl alcohol. It is used for decorative and antiseptic painting.

wood products. With the help of alcohol stain, pile lifting is reduced and wood swelling does not occur.

Using this type of stain, it is quite difficult to achieve uniform coloring, because the composition dries very quickly and stains can form

. This impregnation is best suited for tinting small products, but it will not be suitable for painting parquet.

Oil stain

This impregnation is a dye dissolved in flax oil. It is the most convenient to work with and can be applied in different ways. Oil stain does not lift fibers and is evenly distributed over the entire wooden surface. Products processed in this way can always be easily repainted and restored.

Wood stain ANLES alcohol-containing, Oregon, 0.5 l

Specifications

Chemical basis:	mixture of acid dyes and nigrosin, surfactants, beneficial additives, isopropyl alcohol, water
Appearance:	homogeneous liquid of the appropriate color, does not become cloudy when shaken
Cover color:	Oregon
Drying time to degree 3 at 20°C:	20 minutes
Mass fraction of non-volatile substances:	not less than 1.5%
Consumption per layer:	250 g/m²

Application area

Designed for tinting any type of wood, giving woodland shades to wood, in particular, for painting and correcting defects in furniture, parquet and various wood products at home.

Properties

Forms a moisture-resistant, light-resistant protective coating.
Abrasion resistance.
It can be used both independently and as a durable mordant for subsequent varnishing.
Preserves and emphasizes the wood texture.
Can be used on hardwood.
For external and internal works.
Dries quickly and does not cause wood swelling.
Does not lift wood fibers, creates a leveling effect.
Penetrates deeply into pores, providing better protective properties than others and the possibility of subsequent grinding.
Unlike non-water stains, they do not require perfect drying of the wood.

Directions for use

Before painting, it is necessary to prepare the wood: thoroughly sand it with sandpaper, clean it from dust, oil stains, and old varnish.
Apply stain in 1-3 layers using a swab, roller, brush or spray.

Storage and transportation conditions

The stain should be stored in the manufacturer's packaging in covered warehouses at temperatures from -10°C to +40°C. Transportation of stain can be carried out by any type of transport in covered vehicles in accordance with the rules of cargo transportation in force for this type of transport. Shelf life: 2 years.

Not fire hazardous. They belong to class 3 of hazardous substances - low-hazard. Carry out all work with rubber gloves. Avoid contact with the digestive system. Keep away from children.

The highest level of service: Our specialist managers are professionals in their field and if you need help in selecting the required product, they will be happy to advise you.

Application methods

There are four main ways to apply stain:

Rubbing painting. The composition is applied to the surface, after which it is rubbed over the entire area. Recommended for use when processing porous wood species.
Spraying. When staining wood by spraying, a manual or automatic sprayer is used as a tool for applying stain.
Processing with a foam roller. This method avoids the formation of streaks and helps to distribute the mixture evenly over the entire surface.
Processing wood with a paint brush. The method allows you to obtain a deeper and richer color of wood, but is not suitable for all types of impregnation.

Next, we will consider in detail how to stain wood. To obtain a high-quality and good coating, you must follow the basic rules for treating surfaces with stain:

Before painting a surface with stain, it is necessary to remove old coatings from it, and then degrease it better.
The surface made of coniferous species (for example, pine) must be deresined.
It is necessary to paint wood with stain and remove excess only in the direction of the wood structure.
It is recommended to cover the surface with 2-3 layers, while for the first layer a small volume of the mixture should be used.
After the first layer has dried, the surface must be sanded and the raised lint removed, and then, if necessary, apply subsequent layers (each subsequent layer is applied only after the previous one has completely dried).

The approximate drying time for oil-based impregnations is about three days, and for water-based and solvent impregnations - 2-3 hours (depending on how many layers were applied). It is recommended to divide large areas of the surface to be treated into small areas and paint them in stages. To avoid the possibility of defects forming on the surface, the composition must be diluted. A solvent is used for this.

Plywood stains perform a purely decorative function. Therefore, if you are in doubt about whether to choose stain or varnish, it is recommended to use them in combination. Before covering the surface of the plywood, it must be moistened, and it is recommended to heat the mixture itself.

After covering the wood with stain, it should be treated with varnish (layers should be very thin to avoid the possibility of smudges). The tool you can use is a brush, roller or sponge. Wood varnish will enhance the protective properties of the impregnation. By following these recommendations, you can easily stain wood at home.

Surface treatment before work

In order for the wood stained to be uniform and beautiful, before covering the wood with stain it is necessary to prepare the surface. To do this you should:

1. Remove the old coating, if present, by sanding, which will not only clean the surface, but also level it.

2. Degrease the wood. Grease stains must be wiped with a sponge soaked in white spirit or gasoline.

3. Deresin conifers. The resin found in wood can cause stains and poor stain absorption. Thus, it must be treated with a special solution.

When preparing the surface, you may need to strip off old paint, so we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the most effective methods for removing it. It is worth noting that the natural dyes that were listed in the article above are also widely used in the production of mulch at home.

There are several ways to prepare a solution for degumming.

1. 50 g of potassium carbonate must be mixed with 60 g of soda ash and dissolved in a liter of water, the temperature of which is 60 degrees.

2. 50 g of caustic soda is dissolved in one liter of warm water. The result is a 5% soda solution, which should be used to treat the surface.

3. Add 250 g of acetone to 0.75 liters of purified water.

The finished mixture should be applied liberally to the surface of the wood. After half an hour, the wood should be wiped with a cotton cloth and rinsed with warm water.

Return to content

Selection of materials

Varnishing wood requires the use of high-quality materials and tools. Depending on the purpose of the wooden product and the conditions of its operation, it is necessary to use varnishes that have suitable characteristics.

There are several types of varnishing material:

Oil varnishes are made on the basis of synthetic or natural oils, to which special components are added that increase the strength of the coating. Most often, oil varnishes are used indoors to treat walls and floors. The finished coating is transparent, but has a yellowish tint;
alcohol formulations are made by dissolving natural or synthetic resins in alcohol. Alcohol varnishes create a thin coating that is unable to provide high-quality mechanical protection for wood, but at the same time they make its top layer more moisture resistant. Very often such products are used for priming wooden surfaces;
Nitrocellulose products are prepared by dissolving nitrocellulose in organic solvents. Special additives are added to the composition to increase the strength of the varnish coating. Nitrocellulose varnishes are applied, usually in several layers;
acrylic varnishes are made on the basis of polymer acrylic resins. They can be used to create not only transparent, but also painted surfaces. These materials are very durable and environmentally friendly, but they can only be used indoors;
alkyd varnish materials are made from synthetic resins based on inorganic solvents. The surfaces obtained using these varnishes are highly durable and resistant to moisture. All this makes it possible to use such varnishes to cover the facades of buildings and wooden elements located on the street;
polyurethane compositions based on polymers make it possible to obtain a thin coating that is resistant to mechanical stress. Very often, such varnishes are used for processing musical instruments.

Surfaces located outdoors or indoors can be varnished. Modern means make it possible to protect even wood submerged in water. If there is no varnish, then it is replaced with drying oil or wax mastic, after which the wooden surface becomes slightly velvety to the touch.

Varnish for coating wooden surfaces

Varnishes that are used to coat wood come in several types:

Alkyd.
Polyurethane.
Acrylic.
Nitrovarnishes.
Alcohol.
Oily.
Parquet with acid hardener.

Alkyd varnishes must be diluted with a solvent . The surface treated with this product is protected from fire and water and does not fade in the sun. Thanks to acrylic varnish, a film is formed that does not allow the wood to wear off and slows down the aging of wood.

Nitrovarnishes, although they dry much faster, however, are not able to withstand the negative effects of ultraviolet radiation and moisture for too long. Polyurethane varnishes are characterized by increased wear resistance and form a durable film on the wooden surface that dries very quickly.

Relatively recently, oil-based varnishes were very popular, but nowadays they are used most often for treating floors. Their main advantage is their low price. Such varnishes must be diluted with drying oil, and they take a very long time to dry. Such a new product as acrylic varnish, which is universal and easy to use .

It is used for both external and internal work. This varnish should be diluted with water, and it does not have a strong odor. With its protective qualities it resembles alkyd varnishes, but is much more economical to use . But alcohol varnishes are used only for the restoration of antique furniture.

Preparing the wooden surface

It is recommended to apply stain and varnish only to smooth and sanded surfaces. Regardless of whether the coating should be painted - new or old, it must be carefully inspected. All detected cracks, seams and knots should be processed and eliminated .

If gaps are also found between the joints and seams, they are sealed with special putty . As soon as it dries, to remove possible unevenness, the putty areas are sanded again using fine sandpaper.

One should take into account the fact that it makes no sense to putty on raw or under-dried wood, much less treat it with stain or varnish it. Such wood begins to deform and the applied layer always becomes unusable.

Photo of stain

Stains are applied to the surface of unfinished wood floors to change the color of the wood. Colored stains can also be applied to previously stained and coated floors to create a layered effect. Buy a water-based stain that is made for easy application and won't leave marks or streaks. If the manufacturer recommends, use a wood filler conditioner/primer before staining.

Filler primer conditioners will help prevent streaking and warping due to fiber swelling when water-based stains are used. There are a wide variety of stains available in natural wood tones. You can also choose a colored stain, such as green for a rustic decoration, or white for a modern look. You can also stain wood to create an overlay effect using diluted latex paint. The overlay solution will be significantly lighter in color than the original paint color. To make this solution, use a recipe and experiment with small amounts of paint until you achieve the color you want. Before staining the entire floor, apply the stain or blending solution to an inconspicuous area, such as a closet or closet, to evaluate the application method and the resulting color. Protect your stained floor with three coats of a clear matte, semi-matte or gloss finish. Choose a finish that will not leave brush marks.

Tools and materials

Latex gloves
Synthetic brush, sponge applicator or lint-free rag - for applying stain
Filling conditioner-primer for wooden products (at the buyer’s request)
Wiping cloth
Lint-free cotton cloth - for wiping off stain
Water-based stain or latex paint in the desired color
High gloss and semi-matt clear coat, such as acrylic or polyurethane, to protect stained floors
Sponge applicator or paint pad and extension handle - for applying clear
finishing coating
Electric sander, fine-grit sandpaper

Sand the floor surface using fine sandpaper, sanding in the direction of the grain of the wood. Use a vacuum cleaner to remove dust resulting from stripping, then wipe the floor with a wiping cloth.

Wear rubber gloves when working with stains. the stain thoroughly

or solution to create an overlay effect.
Using a synthetic brush or sponge applicator, apply the stain or solution to the floor
. At any given time, work is performed on small areas of the floor. Keep the edge of the brush or applicator wet and try not to overlap brush strokes.

Immediately or after waiting a certain time set by the manufacturer, wipe off excess stain with a dry, lint-free cloth: first across the wood grain, and then along. Continue applying (and wiping off) the stain until the entire floor is covered. Let the stain dry. Lightly sand the floor with fine sandpaper, then remove any sanding dust with a wiping cloth. For deeper color, apply a second coat of stain and let it dry completely. Using a sponge or paint pad applicator on an extension handle, apply a high-gloss clear coat to the stained floor. Let the coating dry. Lightly sand the floor with fine sandpaper, then remove any sanding dust with a wiping cloth. Apply two coats of semi-gloss clear topcoat.

SOLUTION FOR OVERLAYING EFFECT ON THE FLOOR

Mix the following ingredients: 1 part latex paint 4 parts water

Dark wood tones are good for ordinary rooms. Applying white grout over previously applied dark stain softens the formal look.

For modern rooms, pale, neutral-colored stains are often used. Overlaying blue can make a pale floor stand out more.

Moderate, warm wood tones have a casual appearance. Layering white over moderate wood tones gives an antique look.

General information about stains

Stain is a liquid composition, often dark in color, which can give wood various translucent shades, which allows you to radically change the appearance of the product, as well as protect the material from external destructive influences. Therefore, this means of processing wooden parts can be called multifunctional.

Stain can give wood different shades, radically changing the appearance of products

So, with the help of similar protective and decorative compositions, the following operations can be performed to change the appearance and characteristics of wood:

It becomes possible to tint while preserving the textured pattern of the wood.
A special-purpose stain is capable of bleaching wood - this is a necessary process during restoration work, when changing the color to a lighter shade, or when preparing the surface for applying varnish.
Imitation of shades of elite expensive wood species is widely practiced.
The stain has the property of deep penetration into the structure of the material, and its antiseptic qualities of the composition protect the wood from putrefactive processes and the destructive effects of wood-boring insects.
The action of the stain is accompanied by strengthening the structure of the wood.
An important quality is to give the material water-repellent properties.
Any type of stain significantly extends the life of wooden products.

Using different shades of stain allows you to add visual volume to the wood grain.

The stain is suitable for both interior and exterior work.
The quite affordable cost of the material is also attractive - the price of stain is two, two and a half times lower than paint and varnish compositions similar in the created effect.

Different types of stain interact with wood differently, depending on the basis of their manufacture. Some of them penetrate deep into its structure, others create a protective film on the surface.

Defects and their elimination

Staining wooden furniture must be done extremely carefully, otherwise there is a high risk of defects forming that are quite difficult to eliminate. But if you know how to get rid of them correctly, then there shouldn’t be any problems.

The main defect is the formation of streaks. They arise as a result of applying a large amount of the mixture and its subsequent rapid drying. In this case, it is necessary to remove the layer of impregnation applied to the wood, then apply a new layer on it, which will soften it, and then remove excess impregnation with a rag.

After the wood stain has completely dried, it can be removed using paint solvents. Before this, the top layer is removed with sandpaper or a plane, since the solvent is not able to remove all the pigment.

The most difficult defect is spotting of the product. To remove it, the painted area is treated with a plane (this defect is not washed off with a solvent). In plywood, all face veneer must be removed. To avoid staining, it is better to use a gel stain or first apply a test layer on an unwanted piece of wood to see how the coating behaves on the desired surface. It is worth remembering that the impregnation must be stored in a place away from children.

Today there is such a variety of wood impregnating agents on sale that even a specialized specialist cannot clearly answer the question of what their fundamental difference is. If you read the instructions for the preparations, the conclusion suggests itself that most of them protect wood literally “from everything.” So why do you need wood stain? Is it only for toning it, as is commonly believed?

An analysis of all the properties of the preparations available on the market in this category for wood processing, and reviews on thematic sites allows us to determine exactly what can be achieved with their help. Depending on the composition and specific application, wood stains can solve the following problems:

Wood tinting while maintaining its texture.
Reliable protection of the material when other means are ineffective or their use is not economically feasible. Reasoning - stains are characterized by a greater depth of penetration, while being cheaper than paints, varnishes and a number of other preparations used for wood processing (at least 2.5 times).
Imitation of another, more expensive breed.
Wood bleaching. This is often done either during its restoration, or in preparation for painting (applying colored varnish).
Protecting the material from rotting (antiseptic function) and destruction by wood-boring insects.
Combining shades, creating the effect of surface finishing with different woods.
Some stains strengthen its structure.
Giving (partial) moisture-repellent properties to lumber.
Any stain, regardless of composition, definitely increases the shelf life of wood.

But is it really that simple? Is it enough to buy any of the commercially available stains, and all problems with reliable wood processing are solved? A comprehensive answer can be obtained by familiarizing yourself with all the types of liquids in this group. By the way, stains are often called differently - stains - and they are used not only to protect and prepare for further use of natural wood, but also building materials based on it (plywood, MDF, fiberboard, OSB, chipboard).

Types of stains

Basically, stains are divided into types depending on the solvent used in its manufacture. So, they distinguish:

Water stains. From the name of this material it is clear that its basis is water. They have the heaviest weight on the market. A wide range of colors of water-based stains allows you to give wood almost any texture and shade. Such dyes are sold either in finished form or in powder form, which you can dilute yourself with warm water. The most important advantage of water-based stains is the absence of odor, which makes it possible to work with wood in residential areas. However, when applying a water-based stain, the wood pile rises, which requires sanding its surface after drying. With drying, things are even more complicated. Water-soluble stain can take more than 14 hours to dry, which significantly slows down the work process. A separate group of such materials are acrylic stains. They are more resistant to moisture and sunlight, which increases the time between repairs. The basis of these materials are acrylic resins. When used, acrylic stains do not raise the wood pile. However, their cost is much higher than water ones.
Alcohol stains. These solutions are prepared based on denatured alcohol. The main feature of this stain is that it dries quite quickly. The process of complete drying of the surface takes from 15 to 30 minutes, so you need to work with it carefully and quickly so that no streaks remain. When working with alcohol stains, you should not leave them open; the alcohol will quickly evaporate and the material will become unusable. The most optimal way to apply the material to the surface of wood is spraying with a spray gun.
Nitromordants. Manufactured from various solvents. The properties of nitro stains are similar to alcohol stains: they dry quickly and penetrate deep into the structure of the wood.
Oil stains. Prepared on the basis of oil. In the vast majority of cases, linseed oil is used to impregnate wood with your own hands. When such a stain is applied to the surface, the wood fibers remain in their normal state and do not rise. One of the most important advantages of oil stains is their resistance to ultraviolet radiation. The coloring pigments in this material are not subject to destruction by sunlight, due to which the surface retains its original color for a long time. Oil stains can be applied either with a spray gun or with a brush. Drying time for the treated surface is approximately 3-4 hours.

All wood stains are divided into types depending on the base on which they are made

Water-based wood stains;
Alcohol-based wood stains;
Nitro stains for wood;
Oil stains for wood;
Wax stains for wood.

Water-based wood stains.

As the name suggests, the basis of this type of stain is water. Water-based stain can be sold either ready-made or in the form of a powder that is dissolved in water. This stain is easy to work with, it is very easy to apply and dries quickly. The only, but significant, disadvantage of water-based wood stain is its ability to lift wood fibers. This is due to the fact that wood, when saturated with water, swells and its fibers rise. This feature disrupts the appearance of the material. To avoid this phenomenon, before starting to treat the wood with stain, you should moisten it with water and leave it for a while, after which, when the fibers rise, sand the surface, and only after that start processing with stain. The color range of such stains consists of colors close to natural wood, from light tones to the color of mahogany and wenge.

Alcohol-based wood stains.

Alcohol-based wood stains consist of a dye or tinting component dissolved in alcohol. Such stains are sold, just like water-based stains, in the form of a ready-made solution or powder. If you choose powder, be careful, alcohol-based stain is only diluted with 96% alcohol. If you are not sure that the alcohol you purchased is exactly 96%, it is better to choose a stain in a ready-made solution. A feature of this type of stain is its short drying time. Alcohol stains dry out very quickly, so you need to be very careful when using them. If, while staining the surface using alcohol stain, you are distracted or make incorrect strokes, stains may remain on the surface that are quite difficult to remove or tint.

Nitro stains for wood.

This type of wood stain is made on a solvent basis. Nitro stains, like alcohol stains, dry very quickly, which makes treating large surfaces very problematic, and they also have a strong and unpleasant odor, which limits the possibility of using them indoors. Nitro stains are best used for staining small surfaces, such as doors, windows, and small decorative elements.

Oil stains for wood.

Oil stains for wood are the most versatile and frequently used type of wood stain. The composition includes oils and oil-soluble coloring components. Oil-based wood stain is easy to apply, goes on smoothly, dries quickly enough, but at the same time makes it possible to cover the surface evenly and without streaks. Oil stains for wood are environmentally friendly, odorless, and can be used both outdoors and indoors. Oil stains, unlike others, have not only a decorative, but also a protective function for wood. Oil, penetrating into the upper layers of wood, protects it from dampness, moisture and other atmospheric phenomena. The color range of oil stains is very wide, here you can choose a color and shade to suit every taste and for any interior.

Wax stains for wood.

Wax stains are one of the modern construction developments. When applying this type of stain, a protective film of wax is created on the surface, which creates effective and thorough protection from moisture.

When choosing wood stains, it is important to consider the following factors:

Tree species. Different types of wood respond differently to staining. For example, wood species that contain resins (pine, etc.) become stained when treated with stains, since the stain does not penetrate well into the areas where the resin is concentrated.
Specifics of wood use. If you are going to stain wooden dishes or, for example, children's toys, it is better to use oil or wax stains; they are safe for health and do not have an unpleasant odor.

Color palette

There are different colors of wood stain, and it is very difficult to answer the question of how to choose the most suitable one. This material allows you to add almost any shade to wood products. For example, black stain is very popular, which allows you to give the surface the appearance of a black mirror. It is recommended to polish the base before applying it.

Gray stain makes it possible to avoid highlighting the treated product from the overall interior. It is worth painting with it only if the walls and textiles in the interior are bright. Gray can cause depression, and products in this color will look too faded and gray.

Psychologists advise choosing a green stain (colored stain), since this shade evokes positive emotions. Green color is suitable for surface treatment of various interior items. Blue stain allows you to get a very expressive look to the finished product. Choose it to combine with yellow and white tones.

How to paint doors coated with varnish or paint

Over time, any doors wear out and become unsightly. The moment comes when they need to be restored. It would seem that this is not a difficult task, and anyone can do it

But not many people know that before finishing the doors, you should pay attention to the coating with which they were previously painted. If you are not going to completely remove it, then you should take care of the compatibility of coloring agents, those that were previously applied and new ones

In this article we will tell you how to paint doors coated with varnish or other paints. We will also figure out which paint is suitable for this or that material from which the door is made.

Deciding on the material from which the doors are made

If the door is quite old or, on the contrary, new and expensive, then in 95% of cases it is made of natural wood. To accurately determine this, just lift the door; if it is heavy, then it is wood. Modern versions of such doors are finished with veneer, while older examples were simply coated with paint or varnish.

If you lifted the door without much effort, it means that there are voids inside it filled with cardboard, so the weight of the door is not significant. But such a door does not have high sound insulation, and therefore its price is much less than that of natural wood. The top of such doors, just like wooden doors, is finished with veneer. Note that the texture of veneer resembles natural wood and is mainly varnished for stability.

Painting a veneer door

It would seem that the new door will not have to be painted, but this is not so. When selling a door, the buyer is often warned that after installing it, additional varnish treatment is required. The fact is that unscrupulous manufacturers, having made doors and instead of covering them with varnish in several layers, they do it only once. Therefore, additional processing is required. How to paint varnished doors, but it’s not at all difficult to do. A clean door must be coated with a layer of varnish, and after it has dried, the entire door leaf should be sanded. Then remove all chips from the surface using a brush or vacuum cleaner and apply a second coat of varnish. After it dries, the door can be used.

An important point in this work is that the door sanding process should be carried out before each painting. Then the surface will be even and smooth, and the doors will become attractive.

How to Paint a Previously Painted Door

Now we will look at a sample of an old door, opened with varnish or painted. In our version, this is a seasoned door with many chips, cracks and scratches. Such a door can be restored by removing it from its hinges or in a vertical position. Use a spatula to remove all paint peelings.

The entire surface of the door is sanded with sandpaper, and special attention is paid to cracks and pits. Using wood putty, all defects and unevenness of the door leaf are treated, but before that, they are impregnated with a special primer

After the putty has dried, the door is again sanded until smooth, all dust is removed, and areas that are not to be painted are sealed with tape. All this work is carried out before painting the doors coated with varnish or paint. After this, you should apply the first layer of paint and paint, and after it dries, the second. This can be done using a brush, roller or spray.

An important point here is the coating with which the doors were previously painted. If it was varnish, then the door should be varnished, and if it was paint, then paint

When choosing paint, pay attention to the compatibility of old and new material. If you decide to open painted doors with varnish, then in this case you should use a product to completely remove paint from the surface of the doors and only after that you can start painting with varnish

Don’t forget about the door frame and trims; they must be painted using the same technology as the door, only they cannot be removed, so all work will need to be carried out directly at the place of their installation. Now you know how to paint doors coated with varnish or paint.

Is it possible to dilute stain with white spirit?

Thinner - a liquid used to dilute stain

, paint or varnish to reduce viscosity.
... For example, white
spirit
can be diluted with
thick alkyd-oil or polyurethane varnish, but after drying these varnishes no longer dissolve in it.

Interesting materials:

What is Tourer V? What is AGM technology? What is a toned body? What are Thermogenics? What is Thermometric Liquid? What is Testosterone Booster? What is a liftback body type? What is fuel injection pump gasoline? What is a diesel injection pump? What are top profiles?

Modifications of stains

They are classified depending on what they are made from. They go on sale in the form of ready-made liquids, gels or powders, but the properties of stains depend only on the components and their proportions.

Water fighters

Such stains come in a wide variety of shades, so you can choose the composition for almost any type of wood and make it the required tint in relation to the interior of a particular room.
"Environmental Safety". For those who are concerned about the “purity” of the product, water-based stains are the best option. No harmful fumes, regardless of external factors. First of all, temperatures.
Considering the base, it is clear that it is not difficult to wash off such a stain with water. In some cases, this is relevant if, in the process of working with wood, it is necessary to slightly change the resulting shade.

Water-based stains are deep penetration agents. This property also has a negative component. During the processing process, the wood is additionally saturated with liquid. What does this mean? Firstly, it becomes more susceptible to moisture absorption. Secondly, shrinkage lasts longer and often initiates curling of the processed workpiece. Therefore, the use of stains from this group requires both experience and accuracy.
The need to subsequently apply a protective layer to the wood. For example, varnish, which is most often practiced.

Alcohol stains

The impregnation dries quickly. Some consider this a disadvantage, but the ease of use is obvious. Especially during outdoor work, when the weather is unstable and there is a possibility of precipitation.
High-quality protection of wood from ultraviolet radiation and dampness.

Strong specific smell. When organizing work in a room, it is necessary to ensure its effective ventilation. Will it be possible to do this in winter?
Rapid absorption into the structure of the material. This makes it somewhat more difficult to treat wood with alcohol stains, since due to the uneven application of impregnation there is a risk of stains appearing against the general background. Experts advise using a spray gun, since it is almost impossible to achieve uniform shade of wood manually (with a brush) without proper experience.

Oil stains

Pros:

Do not fill the wood with moisture.
Easily change shade by adding dyes.
The stains of this group are applied to the wood in a thin layer, evenly, so there are no difficulties in working with them.
Do not fade when exposed to ultraviolet light.
Application of an additional protective coating (varnish, wax) to the wood is not required.
Inert to changes in ambient temperature and humidity.

Certain toxicity.
Long drying time (depending on application conditions).

Wax and nitro stains (acrylic)

Their characteristics are largely similar.

After such stains dry, a thin protective film appears on the wood.
Uniformity of shade over the entire treated area is guaranteed. The presence of stains and bald spots is excluded.
The structure of the tree stands out especially clearly.

The difficulty of working with these stains. Mainly due to the quick “setting” of the impregnation. Therefore, any further alterations are no longer possible.
One of the advantages of wood is lost - the ability to “breathe”. The reason is the film that forms. Not all users note this, but nevertheless. How permeable it is is a big question.

Rustic stains

Quite new drugs. Their main purpose is to emphasize the structure of the material, to achieve several shades in one area

The use of such compositions requires high professionalism, so the author does not focus on them. Only for informing the reader, since it is unlikely that it will be possible to process wood yourself

If, of course, we mean a quality result.

How to make stain yourself?

Some craftsmen prefer to make wood tinting solutions using their own recipes. Below we will present several options that are quite accessible for making at home.

In order to achieve a certain shade of wood, various plant and chemical compounds are used.

1. To give the wood one of the brown shades, thick infusions of tea or coffee can be used.

Strongly brewed tea contains tannins that can change the color of light wood.

To make a stain from tea, a thick brew is made from it, which is filtered after cooling. The composition is then applied to the wood, and thanks to the tannins contained in the tea, the wood acquires one of the many brown shades. The color saturation will depend on the concentration of the tea leaves made.
Coffee is used in much the same way as tea. Its ground grains are brewed, infused and filtered. The intensity of the color will depend on the strength of the prepared solution. In order to achieve a certain shade of wood, a small amount of soda is sometimes added to coffee. The proportions of the ingredients are 1:4, that is, 4 parts coffee to 1 part soda.

2. Walnut shells and partitions, crushed, boiled and strained, also provide a solution that will give the wood a brown tint. Sometimes soda is added to the composition. If it is necessary to achieve a red-brown tint, then potassium dichromate should be added to the decoction. 3. In order to achieve a reddish tint to the wood, an infusion of larch bark or onion peel is used.

Larch bark is an excellent natural ingredient for making wood stain, which gives wood a reddish tint.

4. Black stain can be obtained by using a decoction made from the bark of alder, willow, oak, and walnut shells to treat wood. All of the above ingredients are poured with water, brought to a boil, after which ½ teaspoon of soda is added to the broth, and it should boil for another 10 minutes.

To obtain the “ebony” effect, the wood is coated with a tincture made from acetic acid, to which metal elements, such as nails, are added. This solution should be infused in a dark place for seven days.

Buckthorn berries and bark are used to tint light wood.

5. To obtain a golden hue, use a decoction of buckthorn berries. 6. The gray color of wood can be obtained by applying acetic acid to it. 7. Wood fibers will turn cherry when a thick solution of magnesium permanganate is applied to them. To make it you will need 50 grams. powder, which are added to one liter of heated water. 8. Greenish tints of wood can be obtained by using a mixture of vinegar with 50 grams of copper sulfate, which should be boiled for 15 minutes before application. 9. Blue tones are achieved by mixing red elderberries with baking soda. 10. The tree acquires a bright orange color when tinted with a decoction made from poplar shoots - 150 grams of raw material per liter of water. The mixture must be boiled for an hour, then it is filtered and left in the light - after which it turns orange. 11. If you add alum to any of the above solutions, you can get a more intense color of the coating. 12. Heated cotton oil can give wood a dark shade and highlight its textured pattern. In addition, this composition will significantly strengthen the material. 13. As mentioned above, whitening compositions, which can also be made at home, have become very popular. A remarkable fact is that when applying bleaching compounds to different types of wood, you can get the most unexpected shades. For example, walnut has natural purple hues, so when a bleaching solution is applied, it may take on a pinkish or even bright scarlet color. The shade will depend on the amount of natural pigment in the wood. When apple wood is coated with bleach, it will acquire a delicate ivory shade.

Next, several whitening recipes will be given.

Oxalic acid is sold in the form of crystals.

Oxalic acid. You only need 5 grams per 100 milliliters of water. This composition is used to bleach light wood. This solution is not suitable for dark wood, as it can leave unsightly stains. After application and obtaining the desired effect, the wood should be washed with a composition that includes 15 grams of lime and 3 grams of soda per 100 milliliters of water.
Hydrogen peroxide is used to bleach all types of wood, except rosewood and oak. There is no need to rinse the wood after applying this substance.

Making homemade stain is not at all difficult, but in order to achieve the desired shade you will have to experiment, since it is unlikely that you will be able to “hit the mark” right away, that is, get the desired tone. Having prepared the solution and remembering its proportions, the stain is applied to a small area of wood and wait until it dries until the final effect appears. If the shade turns out to be too light, you need to apply a second layer of the solution.

When performing experiments, precautions should be taken, especially if the recipes use toxic substances or acids. It is recommended to work with them in a well-ventilated area or, if possible, outside. You should not neglect skin and eye protection - gloves and goggles.

For the final exterior coating of stained wood, it is best not to use polyurethane varnishes, as they may curdle. Therefore, in this case, nitro varnishes are more widely used.