Wood is easy to process. Using simple tools, you can create things of amazing beauty and functionality.
Separately, it is worth noting products that have the shape of rotation figures: tool handles, staircase balusters, kitchen utensils. To make them, an ax or chisel is not enough; you need a lathe.
Buying such a device is not a problem, but a good machine is expensive. It’s not difficult to acquire such a useful tool and save money, because you can make a wood lathe with your own hands.
Application areas of lathe
A lathe is an ancient device; it is an early device for processing a wide variety of parts from a wide variety of materials - from metal to wood, etc.
Processing is, first of all, turning surfaces both inside and outside, drilling and boring holes of different diameters, cutting threads, and forming surface relief using knurling.
If we talk about turning metal parts, then industrial turning devices produced by different factories are expensive and massive units, which are very difficult to operate.
They in no way relate to desktop devices; these are serious industrial units that, in principle, are not suitable for handicraft work. Therefore, a DIY lathe is a great idea by all accounts.
Drawing of a lathe.
You can, for example, make it in the form of a mini version, which will be quite enough for processing both metal parts and workpieces made of any other materials.
There are certain limitations when using homemade mini-machines: they are designed mainly for working with round parts, with sections such as axles, handles for tools, wheels, etc.
In mini-machines, parts need to be fixed only in a horizontal position for their rotational movements. Excess material during turning is removed by cutters, which are fixed in the support of the lathe.
Purpose and capabilities
A modern lathe is a symbiosis of mechanical parts and electronic components
The main functions of any modern mechanism, be it a simple manual meat grinder or a coal miner, are provided by rotating parts that would be impossible to produce without lathes. A special feature of these units is the processing of rotating bodies by cutting. Lathes provide precision manufacturing that is unattainable with other metalworking methods. Equipment of this type is easy to automate and allows you to perform the following operations:
- longitudinal turning of a smooth or stepped cylindrical surface;
- processing of ledges and grooves;
- turning of external and internal conical surfaces;
- boring of conical and cylindrical holes;
- cutting threads (internal or external) with a cutter or drill;
- reaming and countersinking of holes;
- groove cutting or cutting;
- shaped turning;
- knurling of a corrugated surface.
The main purpose of lathes is to process three types of parts - shafts, bushings and disks, resulting in a variety of axles, flywheels, liners, sprocket blanks, etc. In addition, other workpieces with the shape of bodies of revolution are processed on universal units, for example , body parts.
Screw-cutting lathes are the most popular design among home craftsmen
All existing lathes are distinguished by:
- according to turning characteristics (turret lathes, rotary lathes, multi-cutting machines, etc. - a total of nine subgroups);
- size range, which depends on the diameter of the workpiece;
- degrees of specialization (special, universal, etc.);
- accuracy class.
The most popular for repetition at home are screw-cutting lathes, which have the simplest design among the units presented above.
Components of a mini metal lathe
The composition of any turning device is traditional; all of the following elements are present regardless of how it is made - manually at home or industrially.
The devices consist of the following components:
bed
The main load-bearing element of the entire structure, giving it rigidity and strength. The bed of a homemade metal lathe is made from wooden beams or metal blanks in the form of ready-made corners.
The main requirement for the bed is the necessary strength, since the structure of the machine is exposed to strong vibration during the processing process.
Drive unit
The main element of the part responsible for the power of work. The drive must be selected very correctly based on the power required. This is not an easy task and one that needs to be thought through carefully.
A used drive from a washing machine, a construction mixer, or something else will suffice if you are making a lightweight machine for metal work.
The number of revolutions with such drives is about 1500 rpm, and the power is 200 W or slightly higher.
- Tailstock. This is a special steel plate to which a steel corner is also welded. It is needed for tight fixation of the workpiece to the bed for high-quality processing.
- Headstock. This is the same part as the tailstock, but unlike the front one, it is fixed on the movable frame of the device.
- Front and back centers.
- Caliper.
This is one of the key factors for the working elements of the device, information about which you can read below.
What is needed for making
The ideal option when making a homemade lathe would be to use separate components from decommissioned equipment. If this is not possible, then you will have to make components and parts yourself.
Instead of a cast frame, a frame welded from steel profile pipes and angles is used. It goes without saying that a wooden frame is not an acceptable option in this case. The metal profile can provide the required rigidity and stability of the structure. In addition, with the help of even square and rectangular pipes, it is not at all difficult to adhere to the strict geometry of the frame. An uneven frame will not make it possible to correctly fix the centers, which will subsequently affect the quality of the work performed.
Low-power asynchronous motor - an excellent power unit for a homemade design
For the drive you will need a power unit. It is best to use a low-speed asynchronous electric motor. Unlike collector units, “asynchronous” units are practically not at risk of breakdown when the speed drops sharply.
To process workpieces with a diameter of no more than 100 mm, an electric motor with a power of 500 - 1000 W will be sufficient. If you plan to grind larger parts, you will need at least a 1.5-kilowatt power unit.
In addition, you will have to select a drive belt (or several belts of different lengths). Don’t forget about the fasteners that will attach the individual units to the body. For a homemade lathe, nuts and bolts with a diameter of 8 and 10 mm with regular metric threads are suitable.
Parts machined from a steel bar and then hardened are used as slides, but the best option would be guides made from shock-absorbing struts or long shafts of industrial mechanisms. They have excellent geometry, and their surface is hardened in the factory.
The tailstock, like the spindle, is best used from decommissioned factory equipment
The tailstock can also be made from profile pipes and a thick metal sheet, but the quill is made from a hardened pointed bolt, several nuts with the same thread and a steering wheel made from a pulley from agricultural machinery. Using a homemade quill will require lubricating the contacting surfaces with lithol or grease every time you attach a part. A similar procedure will not be necessary with a factory-made rotating center, so if possible, it is better to buy this part.
The longitudinal and transverse feed screws can also be turned on a lathe or you can use a long threaded rod, which can be bought in construction hypermarkets.
For feed screws, a fine-threaded shaft is used - this will significantly increase the positioning accuracy of the working tool.
For rotation units, you will need rolling bearings installed in the housing, and pulleys of various diameters mounted on the drive shaft will allow you to regulate the speed. These parts can be bought or ordered from a familiar turner.
Making a caliper will require stocking up on a steel plate with a thickness of at least 8mm. It can also be used for a tool holder.
Another component that cannot be made in a home-made environment is the spindle. You'll have to buy it. Mounting the spindle requires the manufacture of a shaft on which the driven pulleys will be mounted. The strength of this part must be impeccable, so it is best to use parts from discarded factory mechanisms.
There are designs that do not have a belt drive. Rotation from the motor shaft is transmitted directly to the spindle. Of course, they have a right to exist, however, when choosing such a scheme, be prepared for frequent failure of the electric motor bearings.
In addition to the lathe, during the work you will need the following tools and equipment:
- welding machine;
- Bulgarian;
- grinding and emery machine;
- electric drill and set of metal drills;
- taps and dies for thread cutting;
- set of wrenches;
- caliper, metal ruler;
- marker.
All these tools and materials will allow you to make a full-fledged tabletop lathe. If you couldn’t get some parts, don’t despair - they can be replaced with something else for a while. Thus, a chuck from an electric drill can be used instead of a spindle if small workpieces need to be processed.
How is rotation done?
The device of a lathe.
Torque is generated in the machine in different ways. You can install the working part on the rotary shaft of the electric motor directly. This approach will save a lot of things: both space and money for spare parts.
Unfortunately, such an arrangement is not always possible, so the so-called gears are appointed as the main executor of the rotational movement. They come in chain, belt and friction types.
Each type of transmission has its pros and cons:
Belting
The most budget-friendly transmission option for a motor with many advantages. The main one is reliability. Making a belt drive is simple: most often craftsmen take one from other devices.
There is also a drawback - this is its fragility, since the belts wear out quickly. You will have to change them quite often.
Chain and friction transmission
A chain drive is not cheap, and it is also much more bulky than a belt drive. But such a transmission will last much longer, so you will get “strategic” cost savings. The friction drive is located exactly in the middle between the belt and chain drives.
Features of machine assembly
One of the features of the installation assembly is the suppression of vibration, which is caused by the operation of the motor. To absorb it, a leading and driven center is installed, but the mechanism can be changed. The idea is to use one driving center, but add a jaw chuck or faceplate.
With an electric motor, things are not so simple either. Many years of practice show that it is best to refuse to choose a commutator type of electric motor. The reason is simple. The engine operates in such a way that the torque increases in the absence of load, even without a command from the turner. At a certain point, the mechanism and design of the machine simply cannot withstand the load, and the parts and workpiece fly off in different directions.
Such “fire” with metal parts will greatly harm the environment in an apartment or house, not to mention the injuries that can be caused to a person during work. If you plan to install a commutator type of motor, you must take care in advance of a special gearbox that will prevent uncontrolled acceleration.
The best option among electric drives is the asynchronous type . The advantage of this system is that it is resistant to loads and does not change the rotation speed without control. This significantly reduces the risk of machine deformation. In addition, its power is enough to process parts about 70 cm wide and up to 10 cm in length. For some materials, such power will be unnecessary, so the electric motor is selected exclusively for the material and size of the parts that will be processed. The more complex the shapes, cuts and carvings, the faster the rotational effect should be.
The driven center, as already noted, must be stationary, but there are cases when it is made rotating. This will not give the best result, but you will have to replace it regularly. Typically, when it comes to self-assembled machines, the driven center is made of a metal bolt, the threaded section of which is sharpened to a cone. Next, the prepared part is installed in a thread pre-cut on the tailstock. Its stroke is 2-3 cm. This installation allows you to press the workpiece between two centers of the lathe.
Selection of power equipment
Power equipment is one of the main parts in the machine, which, in principle, starts the work process. The processing of parts depends on the power of the electric motor. There are two categories of electric motors that are suitable for installation on the machine:
- for working with small parts with a power of 500 to 1000 watts;
- for working with large workpieces with a power of 1500 to 2000 watts.
Naturally, these are symbols, and not only the size of the workpiece plays a role, but also its brand. Carbide products require high impact power to produce the final product.
A homemade lathe does not necessarily have to have a powerful electric motor , since many people process wood or assemble a simple grinder. In this case, even electric motors of a sewing machine are suitable. The drive is simply mounted on the unit, and then the hollow shaft and belt or chain drive are connected. A shaft is connected to a pulley, which is secured to a key. The pulley is necessary, because the workpiece will be installed on it for further processing.
The shaft allows you to make the machine multifunctional thanks to various transitions. Some install a sanding disc, others are suitable for drill bits. Everything can be easily replaced depending on the purpose of processing the blanks.
Power mechanisms are easily connected to the installation, but if you do not have the necessary skills and experience, it is better to invite a specialist. This provides reliability and electrical safety, because electricity will flow to the unit, which is made of metal. When working with it, even a minor error in installing the electric motor can lead to electric shock.
Main components of the device
The final quality of the processed part depends on the support. The effort, time and all other resources invested in the process can go down the drain without a well-established support. This part is located on special “sleds” moving along the frame along guide vectors.
The movement of the caliper can occur in the following directions:
- Longitudinal movement in which the working element of the device moves along the part being connected. This direction is performed when turning a circular thread or to remove the surface layer of paint or something else from the workpiece being processed.
- The transverse movement of the caliper is perpendicular to the axis of the part. With the help of this movement, holes and recesses are made.
- The inclined movement can be carried out at various angles of inclination, it is used to produce surface recesses of various configurations.
It should be remembered that the caliper, as the most active and moving part of the device, is the most worn.
Elements of a lathe.
Rapid wear is explained by the action of constant and serious vibration, which results in loosening of the fasteners and subsequent backlash, which always affects the quality of turning work in one form or another. Such a disaster can be avoided; this requires constant adjustment and adjustment of the caliper.
The caliper can be adjusted in different ways. If the backlash is adjusted, it is eliminated using a screw. Gaps can be eliminated using special inserts between the carriage and the guides.
Gaps appear when the screw, which controls longitudinal and transverse movements in planes, wears out. Oil seals can also wear out. In this case, they are washed and lubricated until completely saturated with machine oil. Sometimes they just need to be replaced with new ones.
Characteristics
When purchasing or assembling a lathe, you need to consider a number of parameters:
- Dimensions of processed workpieces.
- Electric motor power.
- Weight and dimensions of equipment.
- Number of clamped turning tools, cutters.
- Spindle rotation speed.
- Availability of additional elements, components, mechanisms to perform various technological operations.
You also need to pay attention to the material of the individual parts. The durability and resistance of the equipment to loads will depend on this.
Stages of assembling a lathe
Homemade metal lathes are assembled with your own hands quickly and in an uncomplicated manner. The only thing that needs to be strictly followed is the assembly order.
A homemade lathe must be assembled with maximum precision:
- The first step is to assemble the frame from metal elements. It is better if these are channels and beams. It is necessary to calculate the load for the planned work: what size parts are you going to deal with? If, for example, you plan to process metal objects longer than 5 centimeters, the metal frame of the machine must be more than 3 centimeters thick.
- Installation of longitudinal shafts with guides on channels. It is better to fix the shafts with welding units, but they can also be secured with bolts.
- Preparing the headstock from a thick-walled hydraulic cylinder with two bearings pressed into the cylinder body.
- Shaft routing using large diameter bearings.
- Pouring lubricant into the hydraulic cylinder.
- Installation and fixation of the pulley with caliper and guides.
- Electric drive installation.
Don’t forget to use a special tool rest for good stability of the cutters for the metal lathe. A metal turning tool is one of the key elements; we work with it carefully and carefully.
Attach a metal strip with a protective function to the bottom of the machine structure - it will prevent the working part of the machine from deforming during activity.
Dimensions and drawings
When determining the dimensions of the machine, first of all, we focus on the maximum length and diameter of the parts being processed. Let us recall that in industry, low-power turning equipment has the following boundary parameters:
- length - up to 1150 mm;
- width - up to 620 mm;
- the distance from the top surface of the bed to the spindle axis (axis height) is about 180 mm.
It is hardly worth exceeding these values on homemade equipment. We must not forget that with increasing size the danger of bending the geometry of the machine increases many times over. When choosing the size of the support and determining the extreme points of its movement, calculating the distance between centers and the limits of movement of the tool holder, it is best to focus on the drawings of home-made machines. Made by folk craftsmen, they have proven their performance in practice, so it would be stupid not to use proven solutions.
Tailstock Drawing of the support and tool holder Drawing of the bed Drawing of the headstock Homemade lathe. General view Drawing of the tailstock
Which motor is better
Assembly drawing of a lathe.
The electric motor is a key part of any metal lathe. The movement of the working part of the apparatus occurs thanks to it and nothing else. The more powerful the motor, the more powerful the machine itself.
The power level of the motor must be calculated depending on the planned work - the size of the metal parts that you are going to work with on your new unit.
If you plan to work with small parts, a motor with a power of about 1 kW will be sufficient. Such motors are found on sewing machines or other household electrical appliances. If your future parts are larger, choose a motor with a power of 1.5 to 2.0 kW.
The power also depends on the material you are going to work with. If, for example, your material is wood, then DIY wood lathes, including a homemade wood lathe cutter, will not require much power.
The most important issue is reliable insulation of all electrical components. The best option would be to consult a specialist. Confidence in the safety of the device and the professional reliability of the design will not hurt you: after all, you are going to work with electricity and metals. And they don't joke with them.
Design and principle of operation
For wood turning units, such elements have different designs. However, despite all the diversity, the following elements can be distinguished:
- frame;
- control element;
- a flywheel that moves the quill along the center line;
- feed screw (the direction of movement of the workpiece is adjusted);
- spindle.
The case is an all-metal part, which ensures reliable fastening of all elements. The movable part of the tailstock of a lathe must ensure reliable fastening of the workpiece during the entire machining process. The dimensions of this element of the turning unit determine the diameter of the permitted workpiece that can be secured for processing. The tailstock cone of a woodworking machine acts as a locking element. Its center is directed towards the middle of the workpiece. The center axis must exactly coincide with the axis of symmetry.
The design of the tailstock largely determines the technical capabilities of the machine. Each unit is performed in accordance with the requirements of accepted standards.
Making a machine from a drill
The drill will look great as a drive to a lathe.
This elegant solution will save you a lot of money and make your life much easier because it has a number of great benefits:
- The modularity of the device: it is simply assembled and disassembled. The drill can be detached from the frame and reattached without any difficulty.
- This model is very transportable, you can work with it anywhere - even in the country, even in the garage.
- Significant cost savings: no need to purchase additional replacement attachments or belt drive.
To assemble a device from a drill, you will need almost the same parts as for a regular device. Only two things will not be needed: an electric motor and a headstock, and these are the most important and most expensive structural elements.
Since the machine is light and compact, there is no need to build a stable frame; a workbench or table will be sufficient. The drill is fixed using a clamp and a clamp.
Design and dimensions of a lathe.
Expanding the functions of a turning device from a drill can be done using additional attachments and other devices. You can make some great homemade woodworking machines.
There are, of course, disadvantages. You will not be able to process large parts with a drill machine. We can try to improve the model in this direction. For example, add a belt drive and complicate the machine to increase the number of revolutions.
But the game is not worth the trouble: it will lose its main advantages in the form of simplicity and ease. Thus, a homemade device made from a drill makes sense only in cases where you are working with small parts.
A lathe made from a drill is capable of many things: it can not only process parts. But also work with paints - apply them to the workpiece while it is rotating. This is also a homemade wood cutting machine.
Winding wire around a transformer and applying various types of notches on the surfaces of parts are just some examples of using a multifunctional machine consisting of a drill and a metal lathe.
Making a tailstock with your own hands
Developers and manufacturers of products for wood turning offer a wide variety of different components and assemblies. Having some experience, the necessary equipment and materials, you can make them yourself.
The advantages of such products for a lathe are that when designing and manufacturing it, you can create a device capable of solving only the assigned tasks and will not have unnecessary functions and additional capabilities. They only increase the complexity of the node and increase its cost.
Homemade tailstocks for lathes can be made in a home workshop. To do this you will need the following equipment and tools:
- lathe;
- welding machine;
- a set of bearings (usually two are used);
- bolting kit (three bolts and three nuts);
- two pieces of steel pipe with a wall thickness of more than 1.5 mm;
- sheet steel with a thickness of 4 mm to 6 mm (whichever is easier to find).
To reduce costs, it is necessary to use available materials. The necessary hardware is easy to find in the workshop. If they are not available, they can be purchased at any hardware or construction store.
The production procedure for a tailstock for a wood lathe consists of the following steps:
- Drawing up a list of tasks that are planned to be solved on the machine being created (list of necessary operations).
- Develop and draw a diagram of the unit.
- Draw up a technological map.
- Select the required tool.
- Make the tailstock.
- Install and test functionality.
The procedure for self-manufacturing the tailstock of a wood lathe consists of the following operations:
- Make a blank for installing bearings. To do this, it is necessary to process the selected piece of pipe from the outside and inside. Particular attention should be paid to the treatment of the inner surface. Bearings will be installed in it.
- If necessary, a cut should be made in the manufactured bushing. Its width should not exceed 3 mm.
- Using a welding machine, connect the two bolts. You should get a rod of a given length.
- Boil the nut and washer on the right side.
- Remove the nut on the left side.
- Cut off the bolt head. Treat the cut area with an abrasive tool.
- Start making the spindle. It is made from scrap pipe with a diameter of ¾ inches. The length is about 7 mm.
- The tailstock cone is made from a bolt. To do this, its end is sharpened accordingly.
After completing the manufacture of all elements, it is necessary to assemble the tailstock and check it with the machine turned on.
The quality of a self-made tailstock largely depends on the accuracy class of the tool used and the professional skills of the manufacturer. Experience shows that certain problems arise with such nodes. These include:
- excess vibration level;
- poor alignment;
- low productivity compared to industrial designs;
- increased wear rate of installed bearings.
To avoid negative consequences, it is necessary to check the machine at idle speed. Check the alignment of the tailstock and headstock, the quality of lubrication of the bearings and the reliability of their fastening. With proper assembly and high-quality manufacturing of individual parts, a homemade design meets all requirements and will be no worse than an industrial one.
And now the simplest machine
Today there are a huge number of drawings, instructions and videos on the Internet on the topic “how to make a homemade lathe”, with the help of which independent work on making a lathe is quite realistic and can be done by almost everyone.
You can, of course, aim for a mini-machine with program control. Or you can choose the simplest option, which will work perfectly for a wide variety of parts of various configurations at low cost.
Wooden posts are attached to the frame using bolts. The frame must be reliable, so it is made of steel corners. In extreme cases, it can be made from bars.
The device of a wood lathe.
The cutting element is fixed on a knot from the tool rest, and it will move along it. A sheet of metal should be tightly fixed on the moving surface to protect the structure from deformation. In addition, this will help position the metal turning tool exactly to the part that needs to be machined.
To make the headstock and tailstock, suitable metal cylinders with the appropriate diameter are selected. They are housed in bearing assemblies that are pre-positioned in wooden posts.
The rotational movement is transmitted through the front center, connected to the motor using a belt drive. The part is fixed between the front and rear sections and processed with a cutter from a tool rest.
There are no problems with finding and choosing an electric motor for a mini-lathe.
We have already written that a low-power motor can be found on any household electrical device; any used home appliance is quite suitable for this task. Grinding machines or drills can be used as a drive.
Device
To assemble a high-quality homemade metal lathe, you need to know its design. It consists of several main parts:
- beds (base);
- calipers;
- tailstock and front headstock;
- tool holder;
- electric drive.
All elements are interconnected. They are connected using various fasteners, mechanisms, etc.
Factory model of a lathe (Photo: Instagram / oestlund91)
bed
A fixed part on which other parts are attached. It consists of 2 vertical ribs connected by a crossbar. This design provides the required rigidity and stability of the stator.
Peculiarities:
- There are legs under the bed. Their number depends on the length of the base.
- The transverse rails, which are located on top, are needed for the tailstock and caliper to move along them.
Types of guides:
- prismatic - needed to move the caliper;
- flat - necessary for moving the tailstock.
Caliper
Turning tools and cutters are attached to the upper part of the support. This is a moving part that is fixed to the rails of the frame. The support can be moved in 4 directions relative to the center of the equipment. To do this, a slide is attached to the frame.
Tailstock
Needed to secure workpieces to the spindle. The tailstock is movable. It moves along guides on the frame. Parts:
- Upper. The spindle is held on it.
- Bottom. Main plate.
The tailstock is secured to the frame using bolts.
Spindle for a lathe (Photo: Instagram / grizli_live)
Headstock
The headstock contains a holding mechanism for securing and rotating workpieces when the machine is turned on. Headstock device:
- metal case;
- bearings (2 pieces);
- spindle;
- gearbox for switching operating modes and speeds.
The main part of the headstock is the spindle. It is mounted on two bearings. The accuracy of workpiece processing depends on this unit.
Tool holder
An important piece of equipment that is needed to secure turning equipment and cutters. The machine may have one or more mounts for cutting tools. The quantity depends on the configuration, size, and power of the equipment.
Electric drive
Responsible for the operation of all equipment and the accuracy of technological operations. It is better to choose equipment with a reversible drive. The electric drive is responsible for adjusting the spindle speed.
It is better to choose an AC powered lathe with an asynchronous motor. The spindle in the equipment is the source of feed, the main movement.
Drive for a lathe (Photo: Instagram / master_silverrain)
Safety precautions
Since we are talking about an electrical machine and working with metals, the requirements for compliance with safety regulations will be clear and strict, from which there is no escape. The first step is to check the functionality of the new machine immediately after its manufacture.
How to check the performance of the machine: the spindle should rotate without the slightest difficulty. It is necessary to measure the coincidence of the axis of rotation of the parts in the machine with the center of symmetry of the same part. The common axis should be visible at the front and rear centers.
Elements of the design of a lathe.
The electric motor is always covered with a special casing, which protects the motor from dirt and metal particles, as well as the machine operator himself. If your device is made from a drill, no casing is needed.
If you decide to equip your homemade lathe with a powerful motor, be sure to test on your home network to see if it is enough for your powerful motor. In general, it is better to adhere to established traditions and use old friends - electric motors from household appliances.
Making a homemade metal lathe with your own hands is an excellent and elegant solution from all points of view. Ease of execution, cost savings, efficient processing of parts - all this is about homemade lathes.
Safety precautions when working with a homemade lathe
When working with the structure, certain safety precautions must be observed. So, after assembling the machine, you need to check its functionality. The spindle should rotate easily and without hesitation, with the front and rear centers aligned on a common axis. The center of symmetry of the rotating part must coincide with the axis of its rotation.
Any video of a do-it-yourself lathe shows that after installing the electric motor, it is covered with a special casing. The latter serves not only to protect the machine operator, but also to protect the motor itself from dust, metal particles and dirt. For a machine made on the basis of an electric drill, such a casing is not needed.
An example of a metal lathe, assembled by yourself
You should also adhere to the following safety rules:
