Impregnation of wood with waste oil: an inexpensive and reliable way to protect wood products

Impregnation of wood with various oils protects the material from diseases and pests, thereby increasing the service life of a wooden structure or product.

Used machine oil is also suitable for processing wood, impregnating boards to protect the wood from rotting, for example, before painting a fence, as evidenced by reviews from people who have already tried this method.

However, due to its chemical composition, this oil is less versatile, and to achieve the greatest effect it must be used correctly and take into account the negative impact on the wood.

What does wood processing do?


Wood is a porous material, so any liquid that gets on the surface of a board or beam is absorbed into it and penetrates to a certain depth, which depends on the type and moisture content of the wood .
Penetrating into the wood, petroleum products and other waste components displace moisture from the cells and also reliably preserve them, preventing further entry of air and water.

If at this moment there are diseases or pests in the wood product, then they die from a lack of moisture and oxygen, with the exception of some types of mold, which require treatment with “Whiteness” or other similar preparations to defeat them.

The greatest effect from impregnation of wood products is obtained when they are used in places of high humidity, for example, buried in the ground or placed next to areas of condensation .

After all, mining creates a protective layer several mm deep on the surface of a board or other part (depending on the viscosity of the material and the number of layers, as well as other conditions, which we will discuss below).

Therefore, even deep scratches and dents do not provide access to water and oxygen to the inner wood, which means the rate of its decomposition is reduced tens or even hundreds of times.

However, this material destroys the structure of wood, so it is undesirable to impregnate supporting structures with mining, so as not to cause their weakening. The exception is load-bearing structures made of timber or oversized logs; in this case, mining, although it softens the outer layer of wood, protects the inner layers .

Working with cherries

Berry syrup with cherry juice goes perfectly with chocolate sponge cake.

Ingredients:

  • cherry juice – 100-110 ml;
  • granulated sugar – 2 tbsp. l.;
  • cherry liqueur (cognac) – 35 ml;
  • boiled water, cold – 220 ml.

Cooking method:

Using ready-made juice you don’t even need to turn on the gas. It is enough to combine all the ingredients and wait for the sugar crystals to completely dissolve. Once the sweet crystals have completely dissolved in the liqueur and juice, add water and stir again. Coat the chocolate cakes evenly with the resulting syrup.

The second version of cherry impregnation. Boil fresh berries with seeds (200 g) (250 ml of water) in sugar (30 g) for several minutes. Cool and strain through a fine sieve. Then dilute with amaretto liqueur (30 ml). This drink goes wonderfully with chocolate buttercream.

How to process boards, logs or timber?

To properly process wood products, adhere to the following order:

  • prepare the product for processing;
  • prepare the treatment for application to wood;
  • apply the liquid in compliance with safety precautions;
  • dry the product.

Preparation of wooden products


Only finished products tailored to the specific installation location are suitable for treatment with waste oil.
For example, floor joists must be cut to size , but if you plan to make any cuts or holes in them, then this must be done before processing.

After all, after impregnation, the wood will be covered with a protective oil layer, so any change in shape or mechanical impact can destroy this protection and negate the entire effect of painting with such a material.

If you are building something from wood with natural moisture, then it is not advisable to dry the part separately before impregnation, because then the moisture deformation, as well as the drying of this part and the rest of the structure, will proceed differently , which will lead to the appearance of cracks.

If you are building a structure from a material with a moisture content of 12–18%, then it is enough to dry the product intended for impregnation along with the rest of the material.

Preparation of testing

At temperatures of 0–30 degrees, the viscosity of waste oil is very high, making it difficult for it to penetrate into the pores of wood, so it must be prepared before application.

There are 3 methods of preparation , which can be used either separately or in combination with each other:

  • adding solvent;
  • burnt;
  • mixing with bitumen.

Adding solvent

This method of preparation increases the ability of the material to penetrate the pores, but reduces the effectiveness of wood conservation and the antiseptic effect.

The best solvents are:

  • White Spirit;
  • kerosene;
  • diesel fuel.

Their advantage is that they are less fire hazardous than gasoline, but at the same time provide the same level of penetration into the deep layers of the wood product. The optimal ratio is 5:1 , that is, to dilute five mass parts of used oil, one mass part of solvent will be required.

Pour the solvent into the waste container and mix until a homogeneous mass is obtained, then immediately apply the resulting composition to the wood.

Heating

This preparation method increases the ability of impregnation to penetrate into the depths of a wooden product, and also improves antiseptic properties, because exposure to temperatures of 70–120 degrees is detrimental to most microorganisms and pests. Heat the liquid over an open fire , focusing on its viscosity. As soon as the consistency becomes similar to diesel fuel, start painting the wood.

Remember, the temperature of heated waste exceeds 100 degrees, so even one drop falling on the skin will cause severe burns that will take several months to heal.

Therefore, be sure to wear clothes made of thick fabric (a canvas robe is best) and thick canvas or felt gloves, and also avoid getting hot oil even on your clothes. If you get a burn, then consult a doctor immediately, because self-medication will only do harm in an already difficult situation.

Adding bitumen


If you add bitumen to the mining, the service life of such a coating will increase several times.
Typically, the mining coating must be renewed by applying a new liquid every 3–5 years , but if bitumen is added, the minimum period after which re-treatment will be required will be 20–30 years.

The oil-bitumen mixture can be either heated or diluted using a solvent.

The first method creates a more durable outer layer of coating without reducing the antiseptic effect, therefore it is better suited for treating load-bearing fence posts, because they are constantly in contact with the ground.

The disadvantage of this method is the increased fire hazard, as well as the high likelihood of severe burns.

The second method is less dangerous, because it does not involve the use of open flame, and the mixture, even if it gets on the skin, will not cause a burn and can be removed with dishwashing detergent.

In addition, impregnation penetrates much deeper than the heated mixture, due to which the wood preservation effect is much stronger . Therefore, this processing method is better suited where it is necessary not only to protect the wood from external moisture, but also to slow down the natural destructive processes in the wood as much as possible.

Application of impregnation

To effectively apply this impregnation, use these tools :

  • solution container;
  • wide paint brush with natural bristles, 50–70 mm long;
  • paint roller with oil-resistant coating;
  • rag kvach, that is, a stick with a rag wrapped around it.

Here are the most convenient application methods:

  1. Pour a little solution onto the surface of the wood, then spread it onto the wooden piece; this is convenient to do if the wooden piece is lying on the table, and the best tool is a brush.
  2. Dip your brush, roller or kvach in the prepared composition, then carefully coat the surface of the wood, avoiding any gaps. This method works well for parts that are already in place.
  3. Dip the end of the wooden part into a container with a solution; this method is suitable for treating the lower ends of the posts, on which the fence veins will then be installed.

Remember, hot bitumen-based composition is slowly absorbed, so while it is still hot, it must be rubbed into the workpiece. If you dip the lower parts of the pillars in such a solution, then immerse the parts in the liquid several times for 5–10 seconds .

If you want to saturate entire parts with this solution, then apply it with a brush or kvach, carefully rubbing into the surface.


Since bitumen-based mixtures penetrate shallowly, applying more than one layer is pointless.

To increase protection, first treat the part with a solvent-based mixture, and after a day apply a bitumen composition.

Apply the solvent-based mixture with a brush or roller in several layers, the absorption time of each layer is 5-10 minutes. You can wait less, but then the soaking will be less effective.

Each layer will dry completely in about a week, but you can install a wooden product impregnated with waste in just a day; the oil will no longer stick to your fingers, although feathers and leaves will still stick to it.

After a week, when the impregnation has completely dried, the painted surface will not differ in tactile sensations from unpainted wood.

If you plan to fasten the products with nails or self-tapping screws, then after installation and fixation, paint the fasteners with the same composition.

Do not use spray guns (spray guns) to apply mixtures, because the waste contains a lot of waste and various dirt, so the device will constantly become clogged, and all rubber seals will begin to collapse under the influence of petroleum products.

You can try to clean the material using a homemade stand consisting of an oil pump with a motor and a car oil filter, but even in this case only an ejector sprayer with a powerful air compressor will do.

Alcohol syrups

How to soak ready-made sponge cake layers for chocolate cake if the layer between the cake layers is buttercream? The original solution in this case is an aromatic solution with alcohol.

It is enough to add 25-30 ml of alcohol to the base syrup, this can be:

  • expensive cognac;
  • dessert wine;
  • rum;
  • favorite liqueur (amaretto, coffee, cherry, plum, peach, apricot, etc.);
  • liqueur with cognac (in a ratio of 2:1);
  • a mixture of dessert wine with whiskey, sherry, rum (proportion 3:1);
  • white, red wine with fruit juice (different options and proportions).

Ingredients:

  • 30 ml of alcohol (optional, see above);
  • 4-5 tbsp. l. brown sugar;
  • 100 ml of boiled, lukewarm water.

Cooking method:

  1. Boil the base syrup. Cool to 30 degrees. At lower temperatures, cognac does not dissolve in sweet syrup.
  2. Pour in alcohol or a mixture of aromatic drinks. Mix everything well.
  3. Impregnation for chocolate sponge cake with cognac is immediately applied to the finished cakes. Wrap them in film and give them time to soak completely (1-2 hours).

After you have soaked the cake layers for a delicious cake, coat all layers with chocolate buttercream. They decorate the top floor and send it to a cold place for additional stabilization and full saturation with moisture.

Spotted! Wines of light grape varieties go well with juices from pineapple, orange, grapefruit, and peach.

Painting the fence

It is better to process all the details of the future fence before its installation; this is especially true for poles, because without protection their service life is unlikely to exceed 5–10 years , depending on soil moisture.

Impregnate the pillars with solvent-based mixtures, and after drying, paint them with a bitumen compound. After about a week, the pillars will be suitable for digging into the ground.

Impregnate the remaining parts, that is, the veins and the picket fence, with solvent-based mixtures; do not use bitumen preparations, because they not only look worse after drying, but also soften under the influence of sunlight.

Apply cold impregnation in 3-5 layers, it will take 30-60 minutes, then wait a week until it dries completely and only then mount the fence.

Don’t forget to paint the nails or screws that you used to connect all the parts together; if you don’t do this, moisture will get inside the wood through the destroyed or protective cover, which will dramatically accelerate the destructive processes in it. Every 3 years, impregnate the fence with such solutions, this will extend the life of the product.

Non-alcoholic options

In addition to the solutions listed above, others, without alcohol, are used to moisten the biscuit:

  • strawberry;
  • crimson;
  • orange;
  • tangerine;
  • apple;
  • pear;
  • kiwi;
  • banana;
  • apricot;
  • watermelon;
  • melon;
  • tea.

Cooking method:

  1. First, prepare a regular sweet solution. From water and sugar, or honey, another sweetener.
  2. An ingredient from fruits or berries is added to the cooled syrup in the required proportion.
  3. Custard and any other biscuit cream should be harmoniously combined with the prepared solution.

Instead of the fruit itself, puree is sometimes boiled in syrup. Berries are replaced with juices. It is important that when combining, all ingredients are cooled to the same temperature.

Important! Desserts made from shortbread and puff pastry become blurry due to additional moisture. Custard is a sufficient layer for such a cake. Like creamy and buttery.

How to paint the framed (lower) crown or the entire frame?


If you decide to paint the trim crown in order to increase its resistance to condensation and extend its service life before repair, as well as when laying a new crown to replace the old one, then keep in mind that working off softens the wood, even if only on the outside .
Therefore, the less it penetrates deeper, the stronger the crown will be. Bitumen-based solutions are best suited for this treatment.

After all, they penetrate shallowly, due to which the softening will be minimal, and after hardening the mixture turns into a crust that reliably protects the wood from street moisture.

If you plan to saturate the entire log house with mining, then keep in mind that it is extremely undesirable to impregnate the inner surface of the walls with this material, with the exception of various utility rooms where people will not stay for a long time .

For this type of work, use solvent-based compounds and apply them with a brush or roller.

Do not use ejector sprayers to apply the mixture, as they spray the mixture heavily, which reduces the depth of its penetration. Apply 3-5 layers, giving each layer time to dry (at least 5 minutes).

Apply the compound only to well-dried walls, that is, in late summer - early autumn. Before painting, be sure to eliminate all defects in the walls, repair damage and sand the walls.

Do not saturate the walls if less than a month has passed since the last rain, otherwise the moisture that the wood has absorbed will remain inside the log or beam, which will sharply accelerate all destructive processes , which will reduce the service life of the log house.

Coffee based

Coffee impregnation is great for chocolate sponge cake.

Ingredients:

  • freshly ground coffee beans – 20 g;
  • cognac or coffee liqueur – 10 ml;
  • water – 225 ml;
  • granulated sugar – 15 g.

Cooking method:

  1. We divide the water into 2 parts.
  2. Heat half the water and add sugar. Bring to a boil, stir until the sweet crystals completely dissolve and turn off. If desired, add a pinch of vanilla for flavor. Although some may not like the mixed smell of coffee and vanilla.
  3. In the remaining half of the water, cook the ground grains. Turn off and leave the drink in the Turk for good saturation.
  4. Strain the cooled coffee from the ground beans.
  5. Mix all ingredients with coffee liqueur. Expensive cognac is also suitable for aroma. Poor quality alcohol should not be used to soak desserts.

Spread the finished coffee syrup evenly onto the chocolate sponge cake using a wide silicone brush.

Processing house cladding

If you want to impregnate the wooden cladding of a house made of brick or any other material, then do this work only in late summer or early autumn, when the moisture content of the boards is minimal.

If the house was previously painted, use a metal brush to remove all traces of paint from the surface of the wood, then sand the boards with sandpaper to remove lint . Repair all minor defects, but if some boards are severely damaged, replace them, then apply the polish with a brush or roller.

If the shape of the boards is different from rectangular, for example, there are chamfers on the sides of the outer surface, then use only a brush, because the roller will not be able to saturate the recesses with oil.

Apply 3-5 layers of polish with an interval of at least 5 minutes, but do not overdry; if several hours pass, the penetration depth of the next layers will be noticeably less. If the wind rises, then inspect the surface of the sheathing for 2-4 days and remove the adhering foliage from it , but if you do not do this, then after the working has completely dried, it will be much more difficult to do this.

Jam syrup

A fluffy and simple sponge cake with cocoa will become even tastier if you soak it in jam syrup. Culinary experts do not give precise instructions about the variety. Choose your favorites that are already in the pantry. You don’t even have to spend extra money on purchases in the store.

Ingredients:

  • water – 250 ml;
  • sugar (honey) optional – 10-20 g.
  • any jam, sour from cranberries, cherries; with bitterness from green walnuts; sweet from peaches, plums, pears - 1 glass.

Cooking method:

Place all ingredients in a thick-bottomed saucepan, stirring, and bring to a boil. The fire is turned off, the solution is cooled, and filtered.

Coat the chocolate cakes with the resulting solution and after a few hours cover with fresh cream. Creamy and sour cream for the cake goes well with berry jam.

Attention! If the jam is quite sweet, you should not add sugar and honey to the syrup. The final taste, consisting of biscuit, soaking and cream, should not be too cloying. Everything is good in moderation.

Pros and cons of mining impregnation

Before you apply treatment to wood boards and beams by impregnation with waste oil, study all the pros and cons of this method.

The only advantage of impregnation with such material is the minimal cost of processing, which makes it possible to protect wooden structures at minimal cost.

There are many more disadvantages to painting with waste oil.:

  • penetration depth is less than that of water-based antiseptics;
  • after drying, the treatment not only protects from external moisture, but also prevents moisture from escaping from the wood, so processing the boards is most effective only on thoroughly dried wood, and this is not always applicable;
  • even after drying, the waste continues to release harmful substances;
  • due to the high soot content, the mining strongly blackens the wood, making it darker;
  • despite the fact that impregnation does not reduce the ignition temperature of wood, the smoke emitted by the painted material is many times more toxic than that of pure or impregnated wood;
  • preparing and applying any solutions based on waste can only be done in the fresh air, and the use of mixtures that include bitumen is not only a fire hazard, but can also lead to severe, long-healing burns;
  • waste oil softens wood, so it cannot be used to treat load-bearing structures.

Now you can decide for yourself whether it is possible to impregnate the boards and whether it is permissible to treat them in this way if the wood is damp.

A folk remedy invented by scientists

If you really want to make impregnation yourself, you should turn to proven methods. In Soviet times, in the Senezh Wood Conservation Laboratory of the TsNIIMOD Ministry of the Forestry and Woodworking Industry of the USSR (yes, it’s a long read), a safe composite “BB-11” was developed - it is harmless to humans, protects against biological damage and does not change the color of wood, since it was originally developed for restoration valuable wooden objects in Karelia. It is prepared as follows:

  • 173 g of technical borax;
  • 173 g boric acid;
  • 3,094 liters of water.

This is a composition for processing 1 square. m. From a mixture of borax salts and acid, you need to prepare a 10% aqueous solution, and before application, heat it to 40 0C. Apply the mixture to the wood with a soft brush, either seven times, or after a single application, cover the treated surface with polyethylene, securing it with push pins. Of course, if this is a facade, you won’t have enough polyethylene; you will have to process it in seven layers (you don’t need to wait for the previous layer to dry). This product meets all the requirements and at the same time can be considered a “folk” recipe.

Painting with machine oil

To work with wood, you need to prepare all the necessary tools and parts:

Applying protective liquid to wood can be done in several ways, using various equipment:

Using brushes of various sizes, you can paint small parts of wooden structures, including ends, bevels and other small structures. The roller will reduce the coating time for larger products and boards, while reducing the amount of material consumed. When working with a roller, it is recommended to prepare an additional brush for touching up bends, cracks, corners and other details.

If you have a sprayer, you can quickly and efficiently paint fences and entire wooden structures. Impregnation in this method can be carried out without a brush, however, the used sprayer is not recommended for use for other types of work.

Thus, used machine oil is an excellent means for impregnating, painting and protecting fences, wooden buildings, metal and concrete parts. This product is easy to use, inexpensive, and has a fairly effective effect on wood.

Source

Lags in the bathhouse: operating conditions and protection

The floor beams are positioned in such a way that sunlight and water flows do not reach them, and they do not experience sudden changes in temperature. However, they are susceptible to living organisms such as fungus, bugs, snails, as well as condensation and partially capillary moisture. All this leads to damage and rotting of wooden structures. The main culprits of material damage are biological organisms. As a result of their penetration into the wood fibers, it turns blue. As such, blue does not affect the strength of the timber, however, after some time, other microorganisms appear on the affected areas that thrive in such fibers (read: “How to treat floors in a bathhouse from rotting - antiseptic impregnations and their types”).

Wooden structures can be protected in a variety of ways. When manufacturing floors, it is necessary to carry out structural and chemical protection of beams.

Groundwater rises in parts of the foundation, which can be absorbed by the joists. As a result, the beams will rot. To prevent this from happening during installation, it is necessary to perform waterproofing. To do this, bitumen-containing films should be placed under the logs and boards in those places where they touch the piles or concrete base (read: “How to make a floor in a bathhouse on stilts”).

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