How to cover brushed wood?

Wood processing is carried out in order to increase the service life of this material. Impregnation with special oils, staining, waxing, and varnishing prevent the processes of rotting and deformation, as well as damage to wood by insects. Brushing reveals the texture of the wood, giving it the appearance of old wood. How to process the wood is up to you; each of the listed methods has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Optimal tree protection scheme.

What wood to use

The essence of brushing is a more vivid manifestation of the texture of wood, its natural pattern. This is achieved by creating a relief surface from which soft fibers are removed, while hard fibers, on the contrary, remain. Hence the first obvious truth: there must be fibers of different densities in wood.

Therefore, species with a uniform, dense structure, such as maple, beech, alder or teak, are not suitable for brushing. But this does not mean that hard wood cannot be aged by brushing. For example, when processing oak boards, a very interesting effect is achieved: the appearance of thin, ragged scratches, which, if painted correctly, makes such products a very valuable decoration.

Coniferous species look best after brushing. The most common pine has a poor texture, and the pattern after processing is unlikely to surprise anyone. But in spruce and larch truly unique patterns appear.

Any wood for brushing must be well planed and free from any kind of defects and blemishes; brushing will not eliminate them. The moisture content of wood should ideally be 10–12%, but in any case not more than 15%, otherwise the fibers will tear and form abundantly fine pile.

How does the brushing procedure work?

The essence of the technique is quite simple: the surface is moistened with a chemical composition. Soft fibers absorb liquid. At the next stage, loose parts are selected with a stiff brush. Solid fibers remain, which form a unique pattern. To enhance the effect, the surface is additionally treated with dye.

The result is an interesting stylized texture, with a slight touch of aristocracy and charm.

Brushes and other tools

The main work when brushing is done with brushes. These are fairly coarse metal disc-type brushes with brass or steel bristles. It is desirable that the brush has a wide end part and is close in shape to the roller - this way the processing will be more uniform. The thickness of the wire depends entirely on the type of wood: the pile should be 7–10 times thinner than the soft veins, while straight wires are preferable to “curly” ones.

The brushes select the bulk of the fibers, but the surface remains too rough and fleecy. The quality of processing can be improved with the help of synthetic nylon brushes, in which abrasive powder of different fractions is fused into the thickness of the plastic. This type of sanding helps eliminate most of the small nicks and lint that interfere with painting; without them, the surface looks cleaner and more pleasant.

The third stage of processing is usually avoided, but if you want a premium surface quality, then brushed wood will have to be polished. Due to the presence of pores, this is not easy to do; it is necessary to use brushes with hard natural bristles, for example, sisal or coarse wool.

Good processing quality is achieved, as a rule, when using power tools. A drill will be preferable to an angle grinder; when working with it, it is easier to control the direction of grinding and speed. Careful fixation of the workpiece is also necessary; a pair of clamps will come in handy. And, of course, you will need means of protection against dust, which is generated more than abundantly, and its removal: a vacuum cleaner, glasses and gloves will definitely not be superfluous.

How to paint lining like bleached oak

Often it is necessary to paint the wood white, but so that the veins are visible. They also say to create the effect of bleached oak. There are several ways:

Use tinting with the appropriate name, which is also called stain. Different manufacturers have these. They usually have the names "frost", "bleached oak" or something like that. Application feature: do not pour too much composition. If you overfill it, the surface will begin to peel off over time. To achieve the desired degree of coloring, apply several very thin layers. After each, give it time to dry thoroughly.

Whitewashed lining looks great both on the walls and on the ceiling

It’s difficult to say which composition to choose - you need to try. It is advisable to paint the lining with several compositions and compare the results. The effect when using different products is slightly different, but it also greatly depends on the wood. The reviews are also very different - some whitened with tinting, others with oil. Soils are rarely used for these purposes, but mainly because not everyone knows their properties.

Work order

At the first stage of processing, the dry and clean surface of the wood is treated with rough brushing, tearing out the soft layers to the desired depth. The most reasonable thing would be to orient the front surfaces of the parts across the layers of fibers, where there are many veins and they are thin. But do not forget that all visible planes must be processed, otherwise the contrast will be too noticeable.

You need to move the brush strictly along the fibers without strong pressure. Small irregularities on the plane will inevitably remain; this is the main disadvantage (or advantage) of manual wood processing. The number of revolutions is 1500–2200, although this value may differ for different breeds.

The main nice thing about brushing is that it opens up a wide field for experimentation and can be used with deviations from the basic rules if visual design goals require it. For example, when you tear wood across the grain, you leave a random pattern of rough scratches, which can be useful for rare decorative inserts.

After brushing the wood, it’s time for sanding. A synthetic abrasive brush is directed along the fibers until roughness visible to the naked eye is completely eliminated. From time to time, the workpiece needs to be tapped on the back side to remove accumulated dust from the pores and evaluate the quality of processing. After removing the lint and burrs, it’s time for polishing to give the surface smoothness and a slight gloss. This can be done either with a brush on a drill or manually using the hard part of a kitchen sponge.

Features of working with floor coverings

Not only furniture elements, platbands and all kinds of decor can be brushed. This processing technique is often used to imitate the aging of parquet and parquet boards.

The main difficulty in working with wooden floors is the large amount of work involved. The drill is of little use here: uniformity of processing and productivity suffer. At such volumes, it is reasonable to purchase or temporarily use a brush sander. This will allow you to maintain a uniform scratch depth with the brush and then quickly sand over a large area.

For the floor, it is not recommended to show deep wood relief, otherwise the coating will get very dirty and difficult to wash. The optimal depth is 0.5–0.8 mm, so the wood on the floor will become warm and pleasantly rough, and the unnatural gloss will disappear.

No. 3 Painting method using a candle

Worn white paint, through which in some places you can see the wood itself in its natural color, is wonderful when restoring antique furniture or creating new ones, but in the same style.

In the photo below you can see an example of such painting of wood with wonderful designer pens laid out on it.

Instructions:

Take a clean wooden board (no matter sanded or not) and a candle. Rub the candles onto the surface of the wood in several places. You need to press quite hard on the candle so that a clear trace of wax or paraffin remains on the wood.
After this, paint the wood with white paint and let it dry completely.
Wipe the dry painted surface with a rag, applying some pressure. In those places where there was a trace of a candle, the paint will come off the surface.

Below is an example of a white wood floor painted using this method. It is worth noting that when using this, it is better to apply a layer of protective varnish on top of the paint for more durable use.

Processing, painting, patination

Texturing wood is only half the battle. Brushing has the ultimate goal of visually highlighting the wood texture; most often, this is achieved by painting using special techniques.

You need to make sure that the fiber selection is done well and the surface is ready for painting. For this purpose, water-based stains are used with a light tanning or cauterizing effect. Application should be done with a brush, carefully wiping along the fibers and monitoring the lifting of small fibers in the process. If such are present, the surface must be thoroughly dried and lightly treated again with a grinding brush, breaking off dried and hardened burrs.

Instead of a brush, it is convenient to use a soft sponge - the paint is distributed more evenly and without excess

When painting, most often the arrangement of tones repeats the play of light and shadow on irregularities: depressions are painted in a dark color, ridges in a light color. To do this, the surface is first opened with a richly dark varnish, and then wiped with a sponge or rag, removing the remaining varnish from the hard fibers, where it does not have time to be absorbed.

When working on a large surface, uniform coloring is achieved after complete drying of the dark dye and subsequent light processing with a petal disc with grit P400–800. When the bulges are highlighted, they are opened with colorless or light-colored parquet varnish.

Another coloring option offers inversion: the upper tier of the relief is planned to be dark, and the depressions are painted in a light tone. In this case, the surface is first tinted with dark polyurethane varnish and dried. This is followed by the application of a light opaque composition, the excess of which is removed with a rubber spatula to reveal the dark substrate on the ridges.

Source: www.rmnt.ru

Wood aging techniques: brushing and firing

Wood is a good material: if you want, build it, if you want, use it for finishing. You can also make furniture. One of the important positive properties of wood is the mass of options for finishing its surface. Each method gives its own unique effect, and it can be chosen to suit any image and style.

This material is durable: furniture made of natural wood, with proper care, lasts for many years - tens, or even hundreds. And wood does not lose its beauty over time - on the contrary, like cognac, it can become even more interesting.

Time does not spoil wooden furniture

The charm of a time-worn wooden surface is so strong that there is a whole trend in furniture production - artificial aging. In previous publications on this topic (Renewing old furniture. Aging with painting and Renewing old furniture. The charm of cracks) we talked about how you can age furniture using varnishes and paints. In this material we will look at how to give the surface of wood a more respectable appearance using mechanical methods.

What paint do we use?

Traditionally, whitewashing was used as a cheap and easy way to protect wood (lime has antibacterial properties) and give it a neat appearance. Nowadays, when we recreate a whitewash, it is usually done with any water- or acrylic-based white paint for interior or exterior work (which is what we will do in the methods described here).

Water-based or acrylic paints without odor!! and can be used indoors

Burning

Firing wood is most often considered the first stage of brushing - just like with chemical etching, the softer areas are destroyed (burnt) first.

The beauty of simplicity. Photo from wickdpleasures.tumblr.com The wooden surface is burned with a blowtorch or gas torch, and then the charred parts are cleaned off, washed generously with water and coated with oil. The degree of firing and subsequent brushing depends on preference. You can also choose a blowtorch in our market; to do this, look at the products in the Blowtorches selection.

Wood that has gone through fire and water does not require additional tinting - the surface of the board takes on a noble dark shade. But if desired, charred wood can be additionally coated with colored stains. The combination of red and charcoal black looks especially impressive.

A house lined with burnt boards. Photo from skyhousedesigncentre.com

Firing can be an independent type of finishing. Now this direction is gaining popularity and is considered the Japanese technique Shou Sugi Ban (Yakisugi), although this method of woodworking is known in many countries. In Rus', burning wood was called smoking.

Fire-treated wood becomes less flammable and is practically not susceptible to rotting and damage by insects. Therefore, such boards are used for cladding facades and building fences. There is no need to regularly paint such a fence or facade - the burnt board does not change its qualities for a hundred years.

Fence made of burnt wood. Photo from oilobit.com

Naturally, the designers could not ignore such material. They began to use fire-treated objects in their interiors, and used boards using the Shou Sugi Ban technique of varying degrees of charring to decorate walls and ceilings. Oil coated surfaces do not get dirty.

Wall cladding using the Shou Sugi Ban technique. Photo from urbantimber.ca

Then the designers went even further and learned how to decorate pieces of furniture by firing. Things that look like they were rescued from a fire may not be to everyone's taste, but they look very stylish. See for yourself.

Try texturing familiar wood - perhaps you will discover a new material.

Source: 7dach.ru

brushing wood of different species

Hello, our dear subscribers and residents of the Masters Fair!

Lately, many of you have been asking questions about the possibility of brushing a particular type of wood.

I finally found time for this topic!))

First, a little terminology and theory).

The term “brushing” is firmly attached to the process of removing soft fibers from the top layer of wood . A rarer term is brushing.

And, in fact, this is our favorite transliteral distortion of the English noun and verb “brush” (brush; clean, clean out) or “brushing” (cleaning).

Correct complete technology:

– rough sampling of soft fibers with a metal brush (movement along the fibers);

– grinding with a polymer abrasive brush;

– polishing with a sisal or synthetic brush.

Cleaned soft fibers are usually formed in the spring, when the growth of wood annual rings is most intense and therefore they are more “loose”. Brushing is used to give wood a pronounced textured surface.

In Russian there is a similar term: wood structuring - i.e. identification of natural wood structure. It is clear that in order to identify it, this structure must already exist and be visible to the naked eye.

Since brushing involves the removal of soft layers of wood, soft and medium-hard wood species are, respectively, most suitable for this process. larch, spruce and pine is clearly expressed . In hard wood (for example, oak ), the brushing process will reveal and expand the pores.

Brushing is one of the methods or preliminary steps that allows aged surfaces to look more realistic. A new board that has been brushed will look like new, just with a textured texture. . But if a new pine board is properly painted gray, it will seem like it has been outdoors for more than 15 years. This is understandable; natural conditions quickly change the color of unprotected wood, but shrinkage of soft layers of wood takes much longer. And they occur following a color change.

Therefore, it is the correct subsequent play with the color of brushed wood that gives it an aged look. For this, in addition to the brushing itself, the wood is unevenly painted:

– areas with soft wood (cavities or pores) – in a darker color,

- and areas of hardwood (ridges) - in a lighter shade.

The easiest way is to apply a generous amount of dark stain and immediately wipe with a cloth. The stain will be absorbed quickly into soft wood, but will not have time on the ridges. Also, in places where there might be abrasions, part of the wood with stain is cleaned off, exposing lighter areas.

Brushing the process is quite simple, but labor-intensive!!

It is believed that homogeneous wood species (such as beech, maple, alder ) are not suitable for brushing, but we tried this method on them - it turns out that it is also quite possible))!

I took photos of samples - in each photo there is a variant of brushing with a wire brush by hand + a piece of untreated wood for comparison.

https://cs1.livemaster.ru/storage/91/6c/33d64d36594cf048093e1fed6a.jpg – Angara pine. (It is less resinous and has fewer knots compared to regular one), by the way, fir looks the same.

https://cs1.livemaster.ru/storage/6a/31/0905a9d7dd90f51ab8b8d4e87a.jpg – beech. (It is considered that it is not suitable for brushing, but I wouldn’t say so. It’s the master’s choice.)

Having processed the given samples (as stated manually, with a metal counter), I came to the following conclusion - all samples are suitable for brushing, the effort and time required for each one was the same. Oak is of course ideal for this - the pattern comes out very beautiful! But other breeds are also acceptable!! I think for firing too.

Let me emphasize once again - brushing is not a complicated process, but it is labor-intensive. - lazy people should not take it on!!

Of course, the experiment conducted is not a scientific fact)), but only my subjective experience! But it has its place))

So try it - don’t be afraid)) Create with pleasure!!

Source: www.livemaster.ru

#1: Painting with a rag

Many types of wood sold in hardware stores are already sanded and have a smooth surface (such as boards or sheets of plywood), but there are also unfinished boards.

This whitewashing method is suitable for both smooth and unsanded wood. It creates a neat and refreshing look, great for modern, farmhouse or Scandinavian style.

White paint makes the wood more refined, while leaving the opportunity to see the structure of the boards and their natural pattern.

How to do:

First, dilute the white paint with a special solvent.
After this, dip a rag into the resulting paint mixture and wipe it over the wooden surface, making an even layer.

Apply 1-2 more coats of paint if you want the color to look deeper white. Let the paint dry after each new coat.

Of course, you can use a brush, but it leaves strokes, while a rag makes the surface perfectly smooth.

Artificial aging of wood

Aging of wood is a long and painstaking process consisting of mechanical processing of wood and work with paints and varnishes. Leon42 associates this method of finishing wood with naturalness, antiquity, and folk culture.

According to leon42 , buying furniture and brushing it with a metal brush does not make it old, but simply scratches it or, at best, creates a textured surface. Furniture bought in a store - made of slats and “skinny” - is not suitable for texturing; it looks rather sad and defective.

It is precisely the superficial approach to aging wood, according to a forum member, that forms in many people the opinion of products processed using this technology as “furniture of fire victims.” Meanwhile, the combination of aged wood with metal, stone or ceramics in the interior is always a fashionable and stylish technique that allows all the inhabitants of the house to touch eternity and feel like they are in the Middle Ages.

Under natural conditions, wind and moisture, sun and temperature changes “work” on the aging of wood. How to do something that takes many decades to do in a few days?

Preparation of material

For brushing, it is better to use soft and medium-hard wood with a pronounced texture, for example, spruce, pine or larch. In these types of wood, soft fibers are formed, as a rule, in the spring-summer period, when intensive growth of growth rings occurs, and they are more “loose”.

Before working with wood, you should prepare its surface. Eliminate all defects and dirt, be it traces of sweat, grease or other stains that may appear during the application of the tinting composition. Treat any products (small architectural forms, furniture, etc.) after disassembling them: you will spend less time and can reach everywhere with a brush.

Brushing

Brushing (English brush - “brush”), or texturing wood, is giving it a relief characteristic of old wood. At the initial stage, soft fibers are removed from solid wood. There are several processing options: light aging - a barely noticeable roughness is created on the surface, or deep and rough, when the depth of the unevenness reaches 2-3 mm (for decorative elements, sometimes for rough furniture).

You can pre-process any part, say a ceiling beam, with an ax: make notches, trim the edges without fear of spoiling it - no one but you knows what the result should be. In this case, you will receive a product with a deep micro-relief of the surface and irregularities on it up to 20 mm deep.

Don’t forget about the “traces” of the vital activity of bugs and worms. Imitate them before finishing with a drill or drill. You can also apply simple carving elements: braids, dragons, etc. – you will get “Scandinavian style”.

Sanding: tools and brushes

Large enterprises use machines and automatic lines, where everything is provided - from the feed speed of the workpiece to a powerful dust removal system. For an ordinary summer resident, such equipment is an expensive and, in general, unnecessary pleasure. If you will be doing this kind of work often, it is better to purchase a brush machine. The most common and widely available is Makita. The most economical and simple option is a grinder or drill, preferably with the ability to adjust the speed.

The entire brushing process can be divided into three stages:

Rough selection of soft fibers
Grinding
Polishing

Accordingly, each of them needs its own brush. At the first stage (brushing), metal (brushing) is used. If you are making structures for the street - a gazebo, canopy, fence, etc., then most likely this will be your only brush.

When processed with a metal brush, scratches may remain on the annual rings themselves, which are difficult to get rid of during further processing.

When working with brush, you must adhere to the following rules:

move the brush along the fibers, otherwise you will damage the annual rings and spoil the wood grain;
the speed of movement of the brush and the pressure should be approximately the same, otherwise pits will form;
the light source should be placed on the side at an acute angle, directing the light beam across the fibers - this way you can better see the surface being treated;
do not press hard on the surface, do not overload the motor, otherwise this may cause premature equipment failure;
the rpm speed should not be higher than 3000, preferably 2000–2500: the brush can quickly fly apart;
be sure to wear glasses and do not neglect protective gloves: pieces of wire from the brush can fly several meters away, injuring others;
take care of respiratory protection and dust removal: during this work, even your eyelashes become covered with “mealy mascara”, let alone your lungs;
the new brush needs to be “run in”, otherwise it will strongly “whack” the workpiece, after a while it will begin to treat the surface cleaner;
work only in one direction (rotation), do not turn on reverse - this will “kill” the metal brush;
The humidity of the wood being treated should not exceed 15%, otherwise instead of a textured surface you will get a shaggy-hairy surface.

If you want to get rid of lint and get a better finish, you will need another brush - a plastic (nylon) one, or rather a sanding disc made of a polymer-abrasive material. The most common grain size is 120.

An abrasive brush is a universal one, characterized by a more delicate surface treatment. If you use this brush, you can do without a metal brush, especially if the element being processed needs delicate treatment or if you want to avoid the specific scratches left by brushes.

The principle of working with an abrasive brush is the same as with a metal one. It is better to reduce the speed to 1500 to extend the life of the brush. The dust when working with a plastic brush is finer and stickier, so don’t forget about a respirator.

Surface treatment specifics:

do not sand the edges and corners of the workpieces, especially if you do not plan to varnish them later: they will cling and chip;
do not make deep relief on seats, tabletops and other horizontal surfaces - they will make it difficult to clean the surface: spilled drink stains, crumbs, etc. will get clogged between the fibers;
In order to prevent clogging of dust and snags of the rag during cleaning, such surfaces must be sanded with an abrasive brush and fine-grained sandpaper.

The final stage of brushing is polishing or fine grinding: performed with sesal or other synthetic brushes. You can use fine-grained sandpaper, abrasive sponges, and steel wool, removing dust from the finished surface with a wide brush and vacuum cleaner.

Finishing operations

At the final stage, they do tinting (changing the color of the wood by several tones), patination (emphasizing the texture of the wood with special compounds that penetrate the pores opened during brushing), craquelure (the effect of cracking and drying out), and varnishing.

After brushing, the board will look like new, but with a textured surface. To give it an old look, it is coated with various compounds; dark colors look more natural.

The easiest way is to liberally apply dark stain and immediately wipe the area with a rag or wide rubber spatula. In theory, the stain should absorb quickly into the soft surface, but more slowly on the ridges. However, in practice this often does not work out, so leon42 opted for a more complex method: after complete drying, the ridges are sanded with fine-grained sandpaper. This method requires further treatment with varnish or colorless impregnations, so the exposed top layer remains without a protective coating.

Another option is to use paint of two contrasting colors: the surface is completely painted over with the first color, then the second is applied. While the latter is drying, run a wide rubber spatula, removing excess paint and exposing the ridges of the first layer.

As a result of difficult and hard work, you will receive decorative elements that carry the beauty of antiquity and at the same time have high durability. Each detail, lovingly made with your own hands, will be unique.

Based on materials from a participant in the “House and Dacha” forum

Source: www.forumhouse.ru

How to treat lining inside a house

In general, many people believe that it is better not to treat the lining indoors with anything. Maybe so, but not in every climate and room it will retain its original appearance for a long time. If the level of ventilation is insufficient, the wood may turn blue; if it is exposed to the sun, it becomes dark gray.

Blue discoloration can only be combated with biological means - chlorine or active oxygen, and then definitely impregnated with protective compounds, and maybe even painted. It’s a little easier with grayed wood: by removing the top layer by sanding you will again get a beautiful color, but without UV protection it won’t last long either. That’s why they decide to paint the lining inside the house or cottage.

One more point: not everyone likes wood in the interior. It's just that sometimes people get tired of looking at her. I just want a smooth, colored surface. This also happens, and often. In this case, look for opaque paint. Select characteristic effects as desired.

Opaque paints give an opaque film

The inside of the lining is painted with opaque paints also because wood in its natural color is not compatible with all styles. But sometimes you want to have a high-tech interior, for example, in a wooden house. In this case, paint with metal particles or mother-of-pearl (for example, Lignovit Platin) is suitable.

All compositions for protecting wood can be fairly roughly divided into six main groups:

Protective compounds

note that some of them turn the surface pink or green - this is the result of a chemical reaction.

The result of stains of different colors

The varnish can be glossy, matte or semi-matte, or it can give color - pigmented

Brushing with wood oils

This division is arbitrary: there are many mixed compounds that can be classified into at least two groups. So there are impregnations that can be tinted, and there are paints with protective properties. The difference is in the effectiveness of the protection. Impregnations primarily protect the wood, and imparting color is a secondary task. With paints it's the other way around. Their main task is to create a beautiful coating, and protection is a concomitant effect. If you immediately need good protection and high-quality coverage, take impregnation without tinting, and after drying, apply paint.

Another example of a mixed composition is oils with wax. These compositions combine the properties of both oils and wax, due to which the wood retains its appearance for a longer time.

The question of which group to give preference is up to everyone to decide for themselves. Different tools solve different problems, and it is important to choose the right properties that you need first.

Wood brushing

Giving wooden surfaces an aged appearance by mechanical means - that’s what wood brushing is, in a nutshell. In fact, this is a very interesting and fascinating process, which is carried out not only by professional carpenters and designers, but also by many who like to work with their own hands.

Wood has always occupied, occupies and will continue to occupy a leading position among finishing materials, not to mention furniture and household items. That is why he is always given increased attention and preference. Aged wood combines perfectly with any modern materials, giving the room uniqueness and originality.

What is the essence of brushing?

The natural aging process of wood occurs over a long period of time. The cut surface wears unevenly, the texture becomes uneven and somewhat wavy. Approximately this effect can be achieved if you treat a wooden product with special tools. Brushing wood when it is young removes the soft fibers, revealing the natural appeal of the wood's natural patterns.

Each product made of natural wood is unique and inimitable, thanks to the individual properties of each type of wood, moreover, of each trunk. However, not every wood species can be aged. Before brushing wood, you need to know about its susceptibility to this method. So, it is best to age pine, oak, larch, walnut, ash, wenge. But for beech, maple, birch, cherry, and alder, this finishing method is practically ineffective. The wood of these species does not have a pronounced texture. It has little noticeable transitions between layers of different densities, or even none at all.

Brushing equipment

To an inexperienced person, brushing wood may seem like a complicated and inaccessible process. In reality this is not the case at all. You need to have a room for creativity, that is, a workshop, the necessary equipment and a little effort. To work you need to prepare:

sandpaper in a set, with different degrees of grain;
a set of special brushes for brushing wood;
stain, preferably several shades to enhance the color scheme;
Transparent wood varnish for final finishing of the product.

Some craftsmen prefer mechanized labor to manual labor. Therefore, instead of ordinary brushes, an electric tool for brushing wood, equipped with a set of brushes, is used. You can also use a home drill with a speed controller with special attachments. Each of the brushes has its own purpose:

a steel wire brush is needed for the main process - brushing wood with your own hands;
a brush with synthetic fiber bristles performs the first sanding;
A soft brush is necessary for final polishing of the surface.

It should be noted that it makes sense to purchase special equipment (machines or machines) to perform a large volume of work. If we are talking about isolated cases, then there is no reason to spend money on purchasing an expensive tool for brushing wood, and do the work manually.

No. 2 Paint filling method

This method works best on unsanded wood with a slightly rough surface (such as a wooden fence). With its help, wood can be given a rustic look and an antique effect.

Clean the wood with soapy water and a brush and leave to dry.
If your paint is too rich, thin it with thinner.
After this, pour some paint onto the wood surface, and then take a scraper and spread the paint over the wood.

On an unsanded, that is, not completely flat, wooden surface, the paint layer will not be the same everywhere. A little more paint will flow along the depressions and less on the bulges, that is, in some places the white color will be more saturated, and in others more transparent, which will create the effect of antiquity.

You can see the result of painting a wall using this method above.

How to brush wood correctly

The procedure for performing the wood aging procedure for manual and mechanized methods is the same. It is important to choose the correct rotation speed of the machine or adapt to the uniform movement of the brush. Since it is undesirable to brush wood at a high engine speed, you can bake the wood and end up with a defect that can no longer be corrected. Before starting work, it is recommended to pass the board through a thicknesser or sand it with a sander. Stages of aging boards:

The workpiece must be sprinkled with water to reduce the amount of dust. Then they begin the main process. The tool, mechanical, electric or manual, is moved along the location of the fibers with measured movements. For each type of wood, they experimentally select their own pace and mode of operation. It is important to thoroughly scrape the board and remove all soft fibers.
Next, brushing the wood with your own hands continues with a brush with synthetic bristles. Sanding should be done in the same order as hard processing was done - with movements along the grain of the wood. After sanding, the initial processing result will be noticeable. If the depth of the grooves seems insufficient, the process can be repeated. The main thing is not to overdo it, as you should brush the board carefully and accurately. At the same time, additional decoration can be done. Using a chisel, create artificial cracks and grooves that highlight the natural wood structure.
Final sanding is done with a soft-bristled brush or, if the work is done by hand, with sandpaper with the finest grain. The main thing is to make sure that the surface of the workpiece is absolutely smooth. This action prepares the board for final finishing. Upon completion of grinding, the workpiece must be cleaned of dust and dried.
The final stage is giving the product a touch of antiquity, grace, and nobility. This is where artistic talent comes in handy, if you have it. For this purpose, stains of different shades, gilding, and silver plating are used. For example, if you literally fill a board with stain and immediately remove the excess, then the soft tissues of the wood will absorb it and darken, while the hard ones will remain light. It turns out to be a very beautiful effect.
The painting process ends with another polishing cycle after the paint has dried.

Varnishing of brushed wood is done last, when its appearance fully corresponds to the expected result. But before this, the workpiece must be thoroughly dried.

Sometimes, in order to speed up the process and make labor easier, acids, alkalis and other chemicals that corrode wood are used for brushing. In this case, steel brushes are not needed. The composition is applied to the surface of the board, then washed off, and so on several times. Such work will not bring much satisfaction, and it will cause great harm. You should work with chemicals wearing protective equipment and outdoors.

Varnishing wood

After applying the stain, the surface is treated with quick-drying nitro varnish - this is done in order to raise the pile. The varnish is applied in a thin layer (with quick movements). After drying, the wood becomes rough to the touch - this is due to raised fibers. The surface is sanded with fine sandpaper, moving along the wood fibers. The main task is to clean the wood from raised fibers and make the surface smooth. After this, you can use another furniture varnish. It is not recommended to continue processing with the same nitro varnish, as it will dissolve the previous layer.

Next, apply a base layer of varnish, let it dry, and then go over the surface with sandpaper. Then remove any remaining dust with a damp cloth and apply the varnish again in a thin layer. The operation is repeated until the surface becomes perfectly smooth. In order to achieve a mirror shine, the surface is polished using a piece of felt dipped in oil and alcohol.

When treating wood with varnish, it is very important to use a high-quality brush made of dense synthetic bristles, which does not crumble during application and does not leave marks in the form of stripes and bald spots. For aged items, careful processing of each layer is not required, since the polished surface does not combine well with the antique texture. In this case, it is quite enough to apply 2-3 layers of matte furniture varnish or wax.

Alcohol-based wood varnishes (shellac varnish) are applied using a cotton swab or brush. A cotton swab is moistened with varnish, then passed along the surface along the fibers (only 1 time), and the next stroke is made nearby so as to slightly capture the previous one. At the junctions of the strips, the varnish spreads quickly, so stains do not form. Do not use shellac varnish that is too thick, otherwise dark streaks will form. Processing wood with shellac using a brush is done in exactly the same way as with a swab. The varnish is applied in 3 layers with mandatory intermediate drying. By following these tips, you can easily process wood without the help of specialists.

For a true master, the ability to age wooden decor with his own hands should not be a problem, especially since this technique is used quite often. We have described for you the technique of performing the work and compiled a list of tools for brushing wooden products with your own hands.

Where are products with brushed surfaces used?

Brushed wood looks appropriate in the interior of any style and architectural direction. With her participation, stylish decorative items are created. Planks with an aged surface are used to decorate sections of walls and ceilings; they fit perfectly into the lining of fireplace portals, ceiling beams, decorative and real columns.

Furniture finished with brushed details in combination with patinated metal, especially copper, always looks sophisticated and elegant. Wooden blanks whose appearance has been worked on by bark beetles are very popular among connoisseurs of antiquity and cabinetmakers. It is impossible to achieve such an effect artificially. Therefore, products made from such wood are especially highly valued by experts.

Source: stroikadialog.ru

Scope of application of brushing technology

The brushed bed frame with carved elements looks very beautiful

The accessibility and decorative nature of the structuring technique make it especially popular in the manufacture of interior items and room design elements. Mantels, shelves, ceiling beams, columns, wall panels made of aged wood give a unique ambience to living rooms and halls, and fill the halls of restaurants and clubs with aristocracy and luxury. Wooden furniture with brushed parts and elements looks no less elegant. Among cabinetmakers, materials touched by the bark beetle are of particular value, since such a texture cannot be reproduced manually, but it creates a complete impression of the antiquity of wooden products.

Brushing is perfect for creating a rustic interior

The ability to independently create exclusive things is one of the main advantages of wood brushing

The use of products made using brushing technology in interior design will allow you to easily create a stylish and unique atmosphere in any room.

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