How to attach a board to a metal pipe: popular methods

Logs, the height of which ranges from 20 to 40 mm, are laid on a previously prepared base. They are easy to attach to the base; you just need to use anchor bolts or plastic corners. When installing the material, you must follow a number of recommendations:

This material does not tolerate errors. An incorrectly laid finished sheet will not maintain geometric stability for a long time; after 5-6 months, cracks will begin to appear on the surface of the coating, and the gaps between the planks will become wider and wider. To prevent this from happening, you should follow a number of recommendations. Prohibited:

You can begin installing the coating only if a slope towards the drain has already been formed, but not less than 1% (1 cm per linear meter). There must be unimpeded air circulation under the laid material, this will prevent the formation of fungus and mold on the surface.

When purchasing a decking board, you must immediately take into account possible losses of 8-10% due to cutting or minor damage. Before purchasing a product, you should check it for defects and compliance with the declared color. 2 days before the start of installation work, you need to remove the material from the packaging and lay it out horizontally on a flat and dry surface.

Be sure to ensure that the joists are not in water when using the decking. Otherwise, the base will quickly fail, and the coating will deform and lose its performance properties. Failure to follow the installation instructions in any case will void the flooring manufacturer's warranty.

This is a set of tools that will suit most mounting methods. In some situations it turns out to be excessive or it needs to be supplemented with special components.

Features of wood

The more unreliable link in this duet is the tree. Some of its features (in relation to connections with metal) need to be given attention.

1. Since wood can expand with temperature changes and changes in humidity, it is necessary to provide a gap between the elements being connected. This will avoid problems in the future.
2. Pre-treatment of material that can become a victim of various pests, mold, moisture or fire is required. In this case, it is better to use compounds that penetrate deep into the wood structure.

The choice of method for connecting dissimilar elements depends on the characteristics of the future structure, as well as on the location where it will be located. For example, for maximum protection of a street structure, it is recommended to lay roofing felt between wooden and metal parts, or coat the wood with bitumen mastic.

What metal products are suitable

For any fence you need supports on which the fence itself will be attached. In addition, the fence is subject to wind and mechanical load.

Metal pipes are suitable as supports. These can be welded pipes of round or square cross-section.

The thickness of the metal must be at least 3 mm. The diameter of the pipe or profile can vary from 5 to 10 cm, rarely more is required.

The thickness of the support will depend on the overall massiveness of the future structure. Pipes are inexpensive, easy to work with, serve well as supports, and last a long time.

If the pipe is too long (6-7 m), it can be cut with a grinder into the required sections. Screw piles can also act as pillars - this is a more “advanced” option.

Installation of screw piles into the ground is quite easy. The piles themselves, thanks to their screws, hold well in the ground and brilliantly perform their supporting function.

A fence made of boards on metal posts: we do it easily and quickly

Previously, village fences were nothing but crooked wattle fences and picket fences.

Nowadays, fences can be made from completely different materials: people actively use corrugated sheets, chain-link mesh, wooden and metal picket fences, polycarbonate sheets, forged fences, welded panel structures, vinyl fences, etc.

But a fence made of boards on metal posts is perhaps the most practical and beautiful solution.

Wood is still one of the most beautiful materials from which you can build a fence, despite all the new inventions.

This is a durable natural material that is in perfect harmony with nature. Especially if the house itself is also made of wood. Moreover, this option is not at all expensive and can be installed on your own.

What metal products are suitable

For any fence you need supports on which the fence itself will be attached. In addition, the fence is subject to wind and mechanical load.

Metal pipes are suitable as supports. These can be welded pipes of round or square cross-section.

The thickness of the metal must be at least 3 mm. The diameter of the pipe or profile can vary from 5 to 10 cm, rarely more is required.

The thickness of the support will depend on the overall massiveness of the future structure. Pipes are inexpensive, easy to work with, serve well as supports, and last a long time.

If the pipe is too long (6-7 m), it can be cut with a grinder into the required sections. Screw piles can also act as pillars - this is a more “advanced” option.

Installation of screw piles into the ground is quite easy. The piles themselves, thanks to their screws, hold well in the ground and brilliantly perform their supporting function.

Preliminary preparation

All elements of the fence, no matter what material they are made from, are subject to pre-treatment.

Metal poles (pipes) must be thoroughly painted before being buried, even if they are galvanized.

This will improve their anti-corrosion resistance. Only those pillars to which a gate or wicket will be attached can not be painted if additional welding work is planned to be carried out on them (welding hinges, etc.).

The wood (both the crossbars and the picket fence) must be treated with an antiseptic and a fire retardant compound. This will have to be done later, during operation.

After treatment with the solution, the wooden boards are coated with a primer. And then – painting: with any suitable varnish or paint.

Please watch the video on the topic:

You can simply coat it with an antiseptic, which over time will take on a natural brownish or grayish color (depending on the type of wood itself).

Installation of metal supports

It is best to install the supports at a distance of 2-3 meters from each other.

To do this, it is necessary to mark the area around the perimeter, divide it into equal sections and mark the points where the supports will be installed.

The depth of the pit should be at least 50 cm, but only for the lowest fences. For a fence 1.5-2 meters high, the depth of the support should be at least a meter.

If the pillars are 3.5 meters, then the depth should be 1.5 meters. Deeper holes are not needed, it is unnecessary, just like fences that are too high.

As for the width of the pit, the following rule works: the diameter of the hole for the post is approximately equal to three pipe diameters.

You can bury pillars in several different ways:

Simple driving into the ground - suitable in cases where the height of the fence is expected to be low, and the soil is quite soft, not clayey (but not too loose, it will not hold support).

A long post is more difficult to drive into the ground while keeping it completely vertical.

Backfilling with crushed stone or sand is also suitable for light fences and for areas with low wind load.

To do this, a hole of the required depth is dug in the ground, into which the post is immersed, the voids are then filled with sand or crushed stone and compacted tightly.

Concreting is the most reliable option; concrete supports can withstand the weight of high and strong fences.

Concrete solution is poured only when there is confidence that the support is strictly vertical.

Sometimes you can use combined methods - for example, you can dig a shallow hole and drive a pipe into it.

Then fill the remaining space with bulk material or fill it with mortar: it turns out that the pillar is half driven in, and the upper half is backfilled or concreted.

This is convenient to do, for example, with screw piles. You can concrete the lower part and fill the upper part with gravel.

The choice of method depends on the materials used and the future load on the fence.

When concreting, a so-called “heel”, a T-shaped plate, can be welded to the bottom of the pipe; this element can further strengthen the position of the support in concrete or crushed stone.

But, as practice shows, welding any additional reinforcement to a post complicates the installation of its position in the hole, so such things are rarely done.

Some particularly scrupulous builders make sleeves from roofing felt for the lower part of the column.

Fence boards

A board fence on metal posts can look completely different depending on the finish you choose.

Anything can be suitable as picket fences for such a fence:

• Carpenter's picket fence, including figured;
• Inch board;
• Lining;
• Gorbyl.

Any planed or edged boards

Staining and treatment with antiseptics was discussed above. There are other decorative options: for example, artificially aging wood.

Rectangular support brackets

Fastening to a support-bracket
Rectangular supports-brackets allow you to fasten building parts to various surfaces or make a corner connection. Such fastenings are used for installing joists, installing ceilings and internal partitions. Fasteners are made from solid galvanized metal sheet 2.0-2.5 mm thick by cold stamping.

The support brackets are L-, Z- or U-shaped. L-shaped products can be right or left-handed, Z-shaped ones are used for multi-level installation. In U-shaped brackets, the timber is installed in the internal space and fixed with self-tapping screws; the landing dimensions correspond to standard sizes of lumber. For ease of installation, the working surfaces of the brackets are perforated with holes of different diameters for various fasteners. Depending on the weight of the structures and the design load, several holes can be used for fasteners.

Methods of fastening and laying timber in construction practice

Wooden beams are a universal building material, used as the main material in low-rise construction and the construction of various wooden structures. As an auxiliary material, it is used in residential, industrial and road construction, in the construction of bridges, ramps, frames for swing gates. A feature of timber structures is their ability to withstand heavy loads; timber is often used as load-bearing elements. The material is in demand among architectural designers and interior decorators.

The timber is laid on the ground and surfaces of various materials, mated with concrete and brickwork, and attached to metal structures. In each case, different fastening methods are used.

Fastening to concrete and masonry

The need to attach timber to concrete or brickwork arises when finishing walls, attaching shelves to the wall, erecting internal partitions, and constructing various supports. Depending on the tasks, fastening methods can be:

1. Installation of vertical racks on a concrete base. The easiest way to install a vertical rack is in a metal head, which has a fastening in the form of a corrugated pin. The retail chain receives standardized fasteners with dimensions consistent with the dimensions of the lumber. Fasteners are produced in two types – “U” and “L”. The pin is embedded in the concrete base, the end of the beam is installed in the head and secured with screws and self-tapping screws. According to this scheme, the lower and upper edges of the structure are attached. Less commonly, a mount in the form of a metal cup is used to install supports.
2. Fastening to a wall made of brick or concrete. For fastening to vertical surfaces, galvanized metal corners of industrial production of two types are used - “Z” and “L”. On a wooden surface, fasteners are secured with screws and self-tapping screws, on concrete - using butterfly dowels.
3. Connection in a metal profile. Partitions and walls made of timber are assembled using a metal tray or channel. The ends of the beams are installed in a metal structure in rows, the metal strapping is attached to horizontal and vertical surfaces using special dowels. When installed in a channel, the structure can be welded to metal reinforcement.

The standard sizes of fastening elements are selected depending on the weight and standard sizes of the material used.

Fastening with liquid nails

Using glue, the timber is laid on a cement screed; such floors are made in production workshops, shopping centers and warehouses for large-sized products. The reliable floor allows the use of electric cars and forklifts. In concert halls and entertainment centers, natural parquet is laid on timber floors - this is the best option for flooring in places with large crowds of people.

The choice of glue depends on the volume of work, the size of the wood and the characteristics of the mating surfaces. The affordable adhesives “Liquid Nails” and “Moment Joiner” are popular; for small volumes of work, polyurethane foam is used. Eco-friendly glue is used in residential and public buildings.

The most important operation is the preparation of the mating surfaces; the concrete screed is pre-primed - this operation will prevent excessive absorption of the glue into the porous structure and ensure a reliable connection with the glue. The surfaces to be bonded are cleaned of dust and degreased. The timing of complete polymerization of the glue is indicated in the instructions for use.

Designers believe that when decorating an interior with natural wood, it is better to choose liquid nails than to use a drilling and slotting tool.

Supports for timber, open and closed

The edges of the sidewalls of the U-shaped brackets are bent at right angles and form two mounting strips (flanges). The planks can be bent inward or outward; in this design, the support brackets are called closed or open. Closed beam supports will allow timber to be laid in rows with minimal gaps, while open beam supports are used for fastening joists and load-bearing beams. Open beam supports are installed on brick or concrete surfaces and secured with screws. Closed-type supports are attached to a wooden surface with self-tapping screws.

According to the craftsmen, open beam supports provide more reliable fastening due to greater resistance to torsional loads and allow more precise adjustment of the position of building structures.

Types of profiles

• CD - ceiling profile 60x27 (PP). It bears the main load and holds the weight of the finished structure. This profile has side partitions of increased rigidity. It is used for finishing walls and ceilings.
• Guide profile 27x28. This auxiliary profile is designed for fastening structural sheets. It sets the planes of future products. It is used both to connect the frame to surfaces and to connect different planes of the structure.
• UW - guide profile 50x40, 75x40, 100x40 (PN) is used to create partitions. The PN is mounted to the ceiling and floor adjacent to the wall.
• CW - rack profile 50x50, 75x50, 100x50 (PS), strengthens the frame of the partitions. It is installed vertically. GCRs are attached to it on both sides.
• Arched profile. These are special curved profiles of convex and concave shapes. This type of profile is used to create complex structures of smooth shapes, with all kinds of bends.

Metal profiles are mounted using additional fasteners:

When installing siding vertically, the installation of panels is carried out in the same way

End to end connection

Connection to MZP

Reliable end-to-end connection of timber is provided by nail plates; the product is a metal plate 1.0-1.5 mm thick with spikes 8.0 mm high. Spikes are formed as a result of cold stamping using a special stamp; 80-100 spikes are formed on one square decimeter of surface. The plate is installed on the side surfaces of the mating parts with the tenons down, the tenons are completely driven into the wood. The model range is coordinated with the standard sizes of lumber.

Preliminary preparation

All elements of the fence, no matter what material they are made from, are subject to pre-treatment.

Metal poles (pipes) must be thoroughly painted before being buried, even if they are galvanized.

This will improve their anti-corrosion resistance. Only those pillars to which a gate or wicket will be attached can not be painted if additional welding work is planned to be carried out on them (welding hinges, etc.).

The wood (both the crossbars and the picket fence) must be treated with an antiseptic and a fire retardant compound. This will have to be done later, during operation.

After treatment with the solution, the wooden boards are coated with a primer. And then – painting: with any suitable varnish or paint.

You can simply coat it with an antiseptic, which over time will take on a natural brownish or grayish color (depending on the type of wood itself).

Fastening elements

You can attach wooden boards to the fence vertically or horizontally.

Vertical arrangement.

Two (in rare cases 3) crossbars, wooden or metal, are welded onto the support, onto which the wooden fence boards will then be strung, respectively.

You can leave large or small gaps between them, or attach them end-to-end.

In the latter case, you need to leave small gaps of 2-3 mm so that the wood has the opportunity to expand when temperature or humidity changes, otherwise the fence will stand on end.

Horizontal arrangement.

The following mounting options may be available:

Regular mount. The two crossbars are placed diagonally and intersect in the middle. Boards are nailed onto the crossed crossbars.

In this case, the boards will be fastened to both the posts and the crossbars. The gap between the boards is allowed arbitrary.

A “barcode” type model (different thicknesses with the same gaps), as an option: two 15 cm boards in a row with a 3 cm gap, and two 50 cm boards with the same gap, after which the order is repeated.

In this case, fence boards are attached directly to the posts. In the middle of the span, if it is too long, you can fasten the boards with a vertical strip (slat).

“Chess”: for example, a 100 mm board with a 60 mm gap is fastened in an even order on one half of the span, and in an odd order on the adjacent half.

You can choose other artistic options. You can make large gaps, or you can attach the boards with an overlap. The main thing to remember is that the closer the boards fit to each other, the higher the material consumption.

Tags: garage roof

Comments 83

Metal tiles will cut everything

Honestly, 5 cm will not be visible, this difference from several angles is not visible even to an inexperienced person. The wave will play its own effect on the professional sheet. Between the metal and the board, you need to lay something, as far as I know, the boards will rot from condensation, but for your lifetime it will be enough as well unpainted trusses. Drill the overhangs from the side and fasten the boards to it from the side and drive the board into them. Only if you do this) fasten it on one side))))) from everyone + for the place of furniture bolts you can buy self-tapping screws with a head like these xtech.dp.ua/upload/2_.gif only with a washer so that the support area is larger, there is almost no load, and there is less pain to drill, although bolts are more reliable. And so the fellow with no experience began to build this.

How to fasten a wooden beam to a metal pipe?

How to attach a board to a metal pipe

Good afternoon. I need to lay the floor in a hallway with an area of ​​1.6 x 2.6 meters, the door of which leads to the street. Along the long walls of this room, at a distance of 1.11 meters from each other, there are two channels. I plan to weld a rectangular cross-section profile pipe onto them, and attach beams to it for laying the floorboard. Tell me the best option for attaching the beam to a metal profile pipe.

Combined load-bearing structures, combining metal and wood in different versions, have recently been widely used in the construction of frame houses, fences and gates, installation of roof truss systems, expansion and insulation of balconies and loggias.

Depending on the expected load on the structure, choose one of two methods of attaching wood to metal:

• on reinforced perforated corners welded to metal;
• joining two materials with special self-tapping screws.

Reinforced perforated connecting corners are usually used when installing rafter structures to enhance the rigidity of the roof, when instead of wooden beams over 10 m long, powerful channels are installed as rafters, ridge supports and purlins.

Wooden beams are attached to the sheathing made of a metal profile pipe with self-tapping screws, and any floor covering can be laid on top of them.

For lighter load-bearing structures, which include the floor system you are planning in the hallway, the best option for attaching a wooden beam to a metal profile is self-tapping screws of the appropriate length. In this case, the wall thickness of the profile pipe must be at least 2 mm so that the applied thread does not become loose over time.

In practice, any supporting structure where wood and metal work together has a significant drawback - the hygroscopic wood is susceptible to rotting and the metal’s tendency to corrode when in contact with moisture. Therefore, to fasten these two materials, be sure to use special galvanized roofing screws rather than black ones.

For fastening wood and metal in combined load-bearing structures, it is recommended to use galvanized roofing screws that are not subject to corrosion

Before installation, be sure to treat all wooden elements with antiseptic and moisture-repellent compounds, and it is advisable to paint metal surfaces.

Types of metal frame according to assembly method

There are many types of metal staircase frames. They can be monolithic elements made from stringers or fillies, suspension systems using bolts, or specialized modular structures. The most common are monolithic and modular systems.

Monolithic

The use of monolithic stringers is a traditional method of creating a metal base for any staircase. You can install one or a pair of stringers. The second option is more preferable. Because it provides two identical supports for future steps.

When using one stringer, the second side of the step must be fixed directly to the wall, which can create some inconvenience. Typically, holes are drilled in the boards through which they are mounted on the frame.

Sometimes it is advisable to use a system of one standard and one side stringer pressed against the wall. The role of such a stringer can be played by a corner. In this case, it is more logical to use special pins as fastenings, on which the board is mounted.

Modular

Modular stairs have appeared on the market not so long ago, but have already gained popularity due to their ease of use and ease of assembly of structures of any size. Typically, a set of parts is created in factories and only assembled directly at the installation site.

The standard kit includes the following parts:

• basic modules;
• floor;
• intermediate.

Middle or intermediate modules can be custom-made with different heights and widths of steps. The base elements begin and end the staircase.

The material usually used is durable stainless steel or structural steel. Additionally, the surface can be coated with varnish or polymer.

Figure 5 is a traditional option for attaching lining boards using clamps;

The utility model relates to construction, namely to fasteners for wooden structures and can be used, in particular, for attaching clapboard or block house boards to a metal profile.

Known fasteners for connecting wooden elements according to utility model RF 40772 containing a metal plate with teeth. Fasteners according to utility model RF 39925 are also known, containing dowels with pointed ends and connecting parts between them. Fasteners are labor-intensive to manufacture and are not intended for fastening wooden and metal structures.

The closest analogue is the fastener according to the utility model RF 5603, containing a metal plate with rows of stamped and vertically bent teeth with pointed ends. This type of fastener is also not suitable for fastening wooden and metal structures.

- applicable only for finishing with thin boards, since the clamps cannot withstand the weight of a heavy board;

— it is impossible to move the boards of the lining or block house when they shrink or swell;

— excessive number of operations and complexity of installation;

- the need to manufacture wooden sheathing, which can dry out, swell and collapse.

The purpose of this utility model is to create a device for movable fastening of wooden structures to a metal profile.

For this purpose, a device for fastening wooden structures to a metal profile contains a plate with teeth, and the edges of the plate are curved, with the possibility of movable attachment to the edges of the profile. This solution allows you to simplify installation and replace the wooden sheathing with a metal profile. Thanks to the mobility of the connection, it becomes possible to subsequently move the boards of the lining or block house after their possible shrinkage or swelling.

In a particular case, the teeth are pressed out of a metal plate.

In another special case, the plate is made of a polymer material.

The proposed utility model is illustrated by drawings.

Figure 1 - device according to this utility model in two projections;

Figure 2 - device according to this utility model, fixed in a metal profile;

Figure 3 - attaching lining boards to the wall using this utility model, front view;

Fig.4 - attaching lining boards to the wall using this utility model, side view;

Figure 5 is a traditional option for attaching lining boards using clamps;

It is convenient to attach the metal plate 1 to the board 9 using pliers, which have a clamp for plates 1 on some jaws, and a damper pad on the other to protect the wood from damage.

This device can also be used to attach clapboard or block house boards to the ceiling in a similar way.

1. A device for fastening wooden structures to a metal profile, containing a plate with teeth, characterized in that the edges of the plate are curved, with the possibility of movable attachment to the edges of the profile.

2. The device according to claim 1, characterized in that the teeth are pressed out of a metal plate.

3. The device according to claim 1, characterized in that the plate is made of a polymer material.

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Steps can be fixed

This article talks about how to attach steps to the metal frame of your staircase under construction in various combinations of fastening materials and overall design, i.e. for stairs on bowstrings or stringers.

To begin with, you need to decide which steps will have to be attached. In most cases, the material for making steps is wood and for self-assembly of stairs it is the main one, although companies specializing in staircase production and installation make steps from glass, stone, and various polymers.

Steps can be fixed

Fastening steps to a metal frame with furniture bolts

Fastening steps with furniture bolts

Advantages: convenience, simplicity, reliability and speed of fastening; availability of quick disassembly if necessary (restoration, dismantling, replacement of treads).

Fastening steps to a metal frame with self-tapping screws

Fastening steps with self-tapping screws

The good thing about installing steps with self-tapping screws is that all fastening elements are located in the riser part and the external decorative finish is not affected. It is advisable to use powerful self-tapping screws with a deep cross-shaped or hexagonal groove for fastening to prevent the groove from being licked off when tightening.

Fastening the steps to the metal frame with a footer

Foot for fastening the step

Fastening steps to a metal frame using Fisher fasteners

Fastening the step to the corrugated pipe (Fisher)

A fairly new fastening method based on the use of a polymer Fisher fastener, on one side of which there is a large-diameter bushing with a hole in the center and conical notches that work like a herringbone (it is driven into the hole easily, but resists coming out), and on the other - a bushing , which opens when screwed into the self-tapping screw.

What should you pay attention to when choosing a step mounting option?

The choice of fastening option should be made at the stage of staircase development. When designing a metal frame, it is determined whether the lower part of the staircase will be open, whether there will be access from below the steps, whether the mounting elements will be painted and with what, whether the absence of any elements (bolt heads or furniture plugs) on the surface of the steps is important.

When building a staircase with your own hands, you often weld a structure from channels (stringers) and a corner (steps, ties). This option is easier to sew up at the bottom with decorative material. Drill the corners under the steps from above, and then screw them in from below with roofing screws.

In any case, you should try to design the staircase so that the step rests on the flange of the corner, channel or corrugated pipe and is attracted to them by fastening, and does not hang on point fasteners. Over time, any fastening weakens, especially in wood, and therefore many serious companies, after constructing a staircase, recommend re-stretching the entire structure after a year or two.

A staircase is almost always a compromise between what is desired and what is possible, so calculating a staircase requires an understanding of where, what and how to do it in order to take into account all the nuances even before the installation stage. Let's look at the basic procedure for designing a flight of stairs from A to Z.

The fastening of stair steps depends on the design of the staircase and the materials used, the covering of the steps and load-bearing elements, and the planned external finishing. Let's consider possible options for attaching wooden steps in wooden stairs.

There may be several options for manufacturing such a threshold. This article examines the drawing of the metal structure of the vestibule and a flight of stairs with several steps.

If the facade panels are made of metal, then only metal products are used to create the frame. For cement and vinyl sheets, you can choose either option.

How to attach wooden sheathing to metal profile rafters?

A metal profile is a leaf material (sheet profile, corrugated sheet, corrugated sheet) which is the final roofing covering (material).

That is, rafters are not made from metal profiles; rafters are made either from timber (wood) of different sections depending on the load.

Or metal rafters are made from a profile pipe (square or rectangular cross-section). But first, steel corners are welded to the (metal) rafters, or the corners are bolted (bolted connection).

Next, a timber frame is attached to the corners, and a wooden sheathing is already attached to these mortgages; you can even attach it to nails or wood screws.

READ ALSO: Evomatic: increasing enterprise efficiency

Metal can condense (moisture) due to temperature changes, so the wood must be separated from the metal, for example, by laying roofing material between the metal and the mortgage.

Sheathing bars and embedded bars must be impregnated with antiseptic impregnations and + fire retardant impregnation (such impregnations contain fire retardants).

In the corners we pre-drill holes for self-tapping screws (side holes).

If you want to attach the sheathing directly without corners, then you need metal screws; the wood and metal are pre-drilled.

But even in this case, the wood should not come into contact with the metal, that is, we lay pieces of roofing felt.

Wooden board on a metal profile.

Good day to all. Need some advice. I’m making a canopy, the rafters are metal profiles 40x25x2, and I want to make the sheathing from boards 150x25. The question is how to attach boards to the profile.

the rafters are weak, the pipe is only 40x25!

and so - thicker screws.

NikolayHAOS wrote: how to attach boards to a profile.

NikolayHAOS wrote: I'm making a canopy, rafters are metal profiles 40x25x2, and I want to make the sheathing from 150x25 boards.

sheathing made from a 40x25x2 pipe to rafters made from a 150x25 board can be fastened with wood screws, for example 4.2-4.8*50 (60) with a hexagon (although it can also be countersunk with a countersink) PS although you probably have a flat board and a profile “ on the edge”? then fasten the 150x25 board on top with self-tapping screws through the wood into the pipe wall with metal screws (4.2*41), better with a drill, but possible without

Samar, it’s the other way around – the rafters are made of pipes, the sheathing is made of boards – the sheathing is many times more powerful than the rafters

andrewkhv wrote: plank sheathing - sheathing is many times more powerful than rafters

if “rafters”, i.e. the frame is with frequent pitches and welded normally, then everything will also be rigid, and the 25*150 flat board is no more powerful. PS another thing is that resp. for self-tapping screws (and you have to drill them) weaken the pipe and are stress concentrators, but this is a trifle

Samar wrote: a 25*150 flat board is not more powerful.

of course on the edge.

in short, we need clarification from the vehicle about the roof structure.

The same boards could be used to make rafters on edge. Both more reliable and more convenient to use. Pipe 40x25 - well, what kind of “rafters” are these, one laughs.

make a frame for gates and gates from the rafters!

Thank you ALL so much for responding.

Samar wrote: they weaken the pipe and are stress concentrators, but this is a trifle

In fact, I’m worried about this little thing, although the upper plane works for compression, and maybe it will give a ride.

andrewkhv wrote: in short, we need clarification from the vehicle about the roof structure.

I have attached a drawing, this is part, so to speak, a piece of the canopy. The location of the pillars and dimensions will come later.

Profan27 wrote: Pipe 40x25 - well, what kind of “rafters” are these, one laughs.

And which ones are not laughter? I checked it like this. (there was a 6-meter piece left, I made a fence that year, I placed it on two supports between the supports 2.5 meters, and I sat on it in the middle, my weight is 105 kg, it bent a little, I decided that it would work)

• will be welded into a single frame (there are no connections in the picture), there’s really no desire to fence trusses from the profile, it’s a waste of welding, cutting, painting, darkness.

NikolayHAOS wrote: And what is not laughter?

Layman27, Unfortunately, the board does not fit in height, since the canopy is attached to an existing building and the height of the roof is limited by the slope (and it turned out almost horizontally). See the picture in the message above, there is almost no slope. I have attached the arrangement of the pillars with dimensions.

Profan27 wrote: And your option once again makes me regret

There are such photos in :-), that’s why I’m asking. Z.Y. I live in the Krasnodar region, there is not much snow

Oh yes, the canopy will have walls made of metal profiles. That is, the wind is not very scary either.

NikolayHAOS wrote: Google is full of such photos

So for some reason Google doesn’t convince people. And I didn’t convince you.

Profan27 wrote: 5 years ago I didn’t take a photo of how the roof of a shopping kiosk, made of such pipes, turned out.

Profan27 wrote: nails make everything go crazy.

What I wouldn't recommend are nails. And they hold it poorly and you can take it apart if you get tired of anything. And collecting is no problem.

Why fasten the boards? There is this option for a steel batten: Lighter in weight, stronger and very easy to attach with ordinary self-tapping screws, a press washer for a Phillips screwdriver. I recently bought it for my dacha, just for the fence.

Shkeddy wrote: There is this option for steel battens:

Where else can I see him in person :-). We haven’t seen anything like this anywhere.

NikolayHAOS wrote: Where else can I see him in person :-). We haven’t seen anything like this anywhere.

Google will help you” >, You need R-20 and you can do without boards, but weld the pipe grate in increments of at least 70 cm.

sarlen wrote: but cook the pipe grate in increments of at least 70 cm.

Probably NOT more was supposed :-). I get 85 cm between the rafters, in principle I can do more often. there you need to add 3 pieces.

OOPS. I looked at the link, so this is corrugated sheeting, but I need to make a sheathing for it, and not an expensive one at that.

sarlen wrote: Google will help you” >, You need R-20 and you can do without boards, but weld the pipe grate in increments of at least 70 cm.

Who cooks the sheathing from the pipes? Why fence such a collective farm? Here are the photos of those profiles:

Easy installation with self-tapping screws. There is a cheaper profile, specifically for roof sheathing. But this one has more elasticity due to the fact that the metal thickness is 1.2 mm and not 0.7 mm. Last year, my friend and I installed a fence in 3 weekends. In the end, if you have something to transport, you can drive to the Moscow region and buy it.

Fastening the board to metal using self-tapping screws

Fastening boards to metal using self-tapping screws is often used during the construction process. In the material presented, we will tell and show how this is done.

1. Metallic profile.
2. Padding material.
3. Wooden block (detail).
4. Round washer for wood DIN 440.
5. Self-tapping screw with drill without washer DIN 7504 K.
6. Wooden cork.

It should be remembered: Wood, when humidity changes, can change its original volume towards decreasing or increasing, so always leave a small gap to compensate for linear changes in size.

Geometric dimensions of the connection.

H – thickness of the wooden workpieceh – depth of the fastening hole L – length of the screw Sp – thickness of the metal profile St – thickness of the wooden plug Ss – thickness of the spacer material Sw – thickness of the metal washer K – height of the screw head D – diameter of the fastening hole d – diameter of the metal washer

Using the formulas we determine:

Mounting hole depth h = Sw + K + St + 2…3 (mm)

Mounting hole diameter D = d + 2…3 (mm)

Self-tapping screw length L = (H - h) + Sw + Ss + Sp + 6...8 (mm)

Help: If (Sp) of the metal profile is large, it is necessary to drill a hole in it with a diameter two millimeters less than the diameter of the self-tapping screw.

What you should know about this type of work

Before you begin installation, you need to familiarize yourself with several important nuances that will ensure the highest reliability:

Important! Sometimes you have to proceed from the existing situation when the walls are erected, but even in such cases you can achieve an excellent result of the work.

You should not skimp on fasteners for wooden structures and choose the most reliable ones.

Nowadays, beams in a wooden house are secured using special high-strength supports.

Concrete and brick

It all depends on what elements need to be installed:

• Fastening a wooden beam to a concrete wall is carried out using quick-installation dowels or special metal anchors. The work is quite simple and is carried out in the following way: holes are drilled in a wooden block at a certain distance, the diameter of which must be equal to the size of the fastener; holes of a certain depth are also drilled in the wall; for reliability, the length of the element in the wall should be twice the thickness of the block.

Dowels are a convenient option that is very easy to use: a plug is inserted into the wall and a nail is driven into it, which expands the shank and securely holds the element.

• It is better to fasten wooden floor beams to the wall with support from a partition or wall, but in extreme cases, you can use special supports that are securely attached to concrete and transfer the load to the wall, which ensures high reliability of the structure. The most important thing in this case is the use of massive anchors, because they will hold the entire system.

Timber supports are used very widely and have proven themselves, like other metal supports for wood.

• The easiest way to attach wooden posts to a concrete base is to use special anchor bases. A hole is drilled under them, and the elements are carefully driven in, after which you receive a ready-made connecting unit that securely fixes the element, preventing it from moving under the influence of loads during operation. For difficult cases, you can use a special adjustable support, which is equipped with a threaded unit.

Adjustable supports allow you to align the structure as accurately as possible; attaching a wooden stand to concrete with their help is a very simple and quick process.

Important! As for the support units, they can be used on different types of bases, the only difference is the configuration of attachment to the surface, it can be a platform (for all types of materials) or a pin (for concrete and brick).

Methods of fastening wooden parts to concrete and brick, metal, aerated concrete and plasterboard

All photos from the article

During the construction process, there is often a need to attach wooden elements to structures made of brick, concrete, aerated concrete and metal. In order for the result of the work to be reliable and durable, you need to know the types of fasteners and the features of using one or another option.

Modern technologies have made it possible to develop many solutions that provide high strength and allow you to carry out installation yourself; this article will be devoted to this issue.

In the photo: fastening wooden floor beams to an armored belt can be done in different ways, but the use of perforated corners is one of the most popular options

What you should know about this type of work

Before you begin installation, you need to familiarize yourself with several important nuances that will ensure the highest reliability:

Important! Sometimes you have to proceed from the existing situation when the walls are erected, but even in such cases you can achieve an excellent result of the work.

You should not skimp on fasteners for wooden structures and choose the most reliable ones.

Nowadays, beams in a wooden house are secured using special high-strength supports.

Overview of the main mounting options

The choice of one solution or another depends on the base to which the fastening will be carried out, the weight of the structures and their location. There are many methods, we will look at the most widespread and popular of them and will start from the material to which the wooden product will be attached.

Concrete and brick

It all depends on what elements need to be installed:

• Fastening a wooden beam to a concrete wall is carried out using quick-installation dowels or special metal anchors. The work is quite simple and is carried out in the following way: holes are drilled in a wooden block at a certain distance, the diameter of which must be equal to the size of the fastener; holes of a certain depth are also drilled in the wall; for reliability, the length of the element in the wall should be twice the thickness of the block.

Dowels are a convenient option that is very easy to use: a plug is inserted into the wall and a nail is driven into it, which expands the shank and securely holds the element

• It is better to fasten wooden floor beams to the wall with support from a partition or wall, but in extreme cases, you can use special supports that are securely attached to concrete and transfer the load to the wall, which ensures high reliability of the structure. The most important thing in this case is the use of massive anchors, because they will hold the entire system.

Beam supports are used very widely and have proven themselves, like other metal fasteners for wood

• The easiest way to attach wooden posts to a concrete base is to use special anchor bases. A hole is drilled under them, and the elements are carefully driven in, after which you receive a ready-made connecting unit that securely fixes the element, preventing it from moving under the influence of loads during operation. For difficult cases, you can use a special adjustable support, which is equipped with a threaded unit.

Adjustable supports allow you to align the structure as accurately as possible; attaching a wooden stand to concrete with their help is a very simple and quick process

Important! As for the support units, they can be used on different types of bases, the only difference is the configuration of attachment to the surface, it can be a platform (for all types of materials) or a pin (for concrete and brick).

Metal

Fastening wood to metal has its own characteristics, let’s consider them in more detail:

• Often, when carrying out work with their own hands, developers choose a metal channel as a reinforcing element.
  This option is very attractive from the point of view of reliability and simplicity of the process, you need to lay channels, and then insert a wooden beam into them, for this the configuration of the elements must match, so sometimes the ends of the elements need to be cut. It is very important that the beams adhere well to the channel shelf
• Special self-tapping screws for fastening wood to metal have a drill tip and thread so that they are securely held in the material. The head can be either a screwdriver or a wrench (most often 8); to carry out the work, purchase a special bit for a screwdriver in advance.

This is what a self-tapping screw looks like for attaching wooden elements to metal

Important! If the thickness of the metal elements is large or they have increased hardness, then it is recommended to first make holes using a drill, the diameter of which should be 2 mm smaller than the self-tapping screws used in the work.

Aerated concrete

This material has its own characteristics, so the following fasteners are used for it:

• Special nylon dowels, which can have different configurations, to use them you need to read the recommendations given in the instructions on the package; it will indicate which drill and how deep you need to make the hole and which screws to use for fixing. This is the simplest and fastest option, and the photo below shows some configurations of products of this type.

Blocks require special fasteners

• For more massive structures, it is recommended to use metal fasteners; they have teeth, which, when tightened, a self-tapping screw of the required diameter diverges and cuts into aerated concrete, ensuring the highest reliability.

Metal fasteners are highly reliable

• If a wooden staircase is attached to an aerated concrete floor, then additional reinforcement may be necessary using a threaded rod, which goes through and ensures the highest reliability.

Drywall

Let us immediately note that heavy structures cannot be attached to this material, but small elements can be fixed very reliably using the following products:

• The “driva” dowel is a unit with or without a drill at the end; the first option is preferable, since there is no need to drill a hole.
• The butterfly dowel is inserted into the hole, with the help of a self-tapping screw it expands from the inside and holds the element. Its price is low, but it is very convenient to carry out the work.

Wood is attached to drywall quickly and easily

Conclusion

The video in this article will provide additional information on this topic. In general, it is worth noting that following simple recommendations and using high-quality fasteners are the main components of reliable connections.

Metal

Fastening wood to metal has its own characteristics, let’s consider them in more detail:

• Often, when carrying out work with their own hands, developers choose a metal channel as a reinforcing element. This option is very attractive from the point of view of reliability and simplicity of the process, you need to lay channels, and then insert a wooden beam into them; for this, the configuration of the elements must match, so sometimes the ends of the elements need to be cut. It is very important that the beams adhere well to the shelf of the channel
• Special self-tapping screws for fastening wood to metal have a drill tip and thread so that they are securely held in the material. The head can be either a screwdriver or a wrench (most often 8); to carry out the work, purchase a special bit for a screwdriver in advance.

Important! If the thickness of the metal elements is large or they have increased hardness, then it is recommended to first make holes using a drill, the diameter of which should be 2 mm smaller than the self-tapping screws used in the work.

Technical characteristics of self-tapping screws

Before you begin tightening fasteners, you must make sure that they are suitable for the planned work. To check this, you need to study the fastener parameters and their meaning. Main technical parameters of the self-tapping screw:

• thread (pitch, profile, depth);
• head type (height, radius);
• length of the product;
• thickness of the protective coating;
• rod diameter;
• material type;
• end type (pointed or drill);
• the shape of the slot (groove on the head of the screw).

Carbon steel, stainless steel or brass are used to make fasteners. Carbon steel has increased strength, so it is used to produce especially durable fasteners. Stainless steel self-tapping screws do not rust and are even suitable for use in medical equipment. Stainless steel for fasteners contains at least 10.5% chromium. Brass is an alloy of copper with zinc, iron, manganese and some other metals. Brass fasteners are very durable and are widely used in various fields.

Another important characteristic that will help you choose the right screws is the type of coating:

• Black phosphated self-tapping screws withstand use in rooms with high humidity.
• Oxidation (black screws) - protects against rust at normal ambient humidity.
• Galvanization is a coating for reliable protection against corrosion. Galvanized self-tapping screws are suitable for outdoor use.

For rough work, uncoated self-tapping screws that are not protected from corrosion are suitable. They can also be used to secure drywall in dry areas.

Aerated concrete

This material has its own characteristics, so the following fasteners are used for it:

• Special nylon dowels, which can have different configurations, to use them you need to read the recommendations given in the instructions on the package; it will indicate which drill and how deep you need to make the hole and which screws to use for fixing. This is the simplest and fastest option, and the photo below shows some configurations of products of this type.
• For more massive structures, it is recommended to use metal fasteners; they have teeth, which, when tightened, a self-tapping screw of the required diameter diverges and cuts into aerated concrete, ensuring the highest reliability.
• If a wooden staircase is attached to an aerated concrete floor, then additional reinforcement may be necessary using a threaded rod, which goes through and ensures the highest reliability.

Self-tapping screws (self-tapping) for metal with a metal washer and rubber seal

A self-tapping screw (commonly a self-tapping screw) is made in the form of a rod with a tip resembling a drill, a triangular thread and a head for a wrench or a screwdriver. In addition to screws with a drill tip, screws with a sharp tip are produced.

To fasten the corrugated sheet, complete with a screw, use a press washer and a rubber sealing gasket.

We apply:

• for attaching corrugated sheets to metal surfaces;
• with steel thickness up to 12.5 mm;
• without pre-drilling holes;
• for installation of corrugated sheets on roofs, for cladding facades, pediments, making gates, wickets, etc.

We do not use:

• for fastening sheets to tool and high-carbon steels;
• for binding metal profiled sheets together;
• for fastening to wooden structures;
• for fastening to metal less than 1 mm thick.

How do we determine quality?

When purchasing, we require a quality certificate that reflects the characteristics according to the DIN standard, including:

• material – steel S1022;
• zinc coating with a thickness of 12-12.5 microns for premium self-tapping screws (letter M on the screw head) and 7.7-8.2 in the standard version (letters MC);
• a layer of coloring polymer protection is applied to the head on top of the zinc;

For fastening to a frame with a thickness of 2.32 mm, we use products for drill No. 1, with a diameter of 4.8 mm, pitch 2.12. For metal, 5.5 mm drill No. 3, 8.5 mm - No. 4, 12.5 mm - No. 5. Thread pitch 1.8. Self-tapping screws of large diameters must be coated with zinc with a thickness of at least 12 microns.

We select the length of the self-tapping screws depending on the purpose. To attach the profiled sheet to the lower wave, choose a size larger than the materials being joined by 3mm. When screwed into the upper wave, for example, to attach skates, the length increases by the height of the profile.

The industry produces 3 types of self-tapping screws according to the shape of the head:

• hexagonal;
• cruciform;
• anti-vandal.

For normal installation, it is easier to work with a hexagonal head shape. We use anti-vandal screws for fences and cladding, the removal of which from the outside will provide free access to the room or territory. Installation of products is done with a special tool.

How to attach a metal profile to a fence

Before purchasing a profiled sheet, you must first select the color, type of coating, and material of manufacture. In addition, it is necessary to correctly calculate the amount of metal profile and fasteners.

Only then can construction of the fence begin. Having decided on the installation location of the wicket and gate, having made markings, they install support pillars for the future fence. How the corrugated sheeting will be attached to the frame depends on the material used to make the supports:

Cross members can be attached to supports in several ways:

When installing bars, you need to constantly check the evenness so that all elements are in the same vertical and horizontal planes. Work with wood material should only be carried out in dry weather.

Important nuances when attaching corrugated sheets with self-tapping screws:

1. We tighten the screws with a washer and a rubber gasket strictly perpendicular to the plane of the sheet.
2. According to the characteristics, the screws are suggested to be screwed in at 2500 rpm, but it is difficult to calculate the force by touch. We tighten the screws so as not to crush the rubber washer. A flattened seal will crack over time and will not create a tight seal.
3. We do not use rubber seals where monolithic fastening is required.
4. In places where unauthorized access to fasteners is possible, we use anti-vandal screws or use self-tapping screws with a notch that prevents arbitrary unscrewing.

Sources

• https://dom-i-remont.info/posts/obshhie-voprosy/kak-prikrepit-dosku-k-metallicheskoj-trube-populyarnye-sposoby/
• https://domunit.ru/zabor-iz-dosok-na-metallicheskix-stolbax.html
• https://tvertorgles.ru/stroitelstvo/kak-zakrepit-derevyannyj-brus-k-metallicheskoj-trube.html
• https://specgidromir.com/kak-prikrepit-brus-k-metallicheskoy-trube/
• https://stroyido.ru/kak-prikrepit-brus-k-metallicheskoj-trube.html
• https://orpro.ru/sposoby-krepleniya-derevyannogo-brusa-k-metallicheskoi-trube-kak/
• https://stroypodskazka.com/kak-krepit-dosku-k-profilnoy-trube/

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