How a beginner can learn to cut a forty-five degree angle with a circular saw

Video: How to Cut with a Circular Saw at 45 Degrees

When purchasing, be sure to pay attention to such an indicator as the depth of the saw
Note. The cutting depth of the saw blade ranges from 30 to 130 mm.

You need to know what thick boards you need to work with. The choice of saw is also very important. For a neat cut, a disc with a large number of teeth is suitable. If the disc has sparse teeth, the cut will be faster, but the cut will be rougher.

Sections with such a saw are usually smooth and practically free of chips

How to make a 45 degree cut?

This angle is found in the manufacture of various products. Let's start cutting. First, the saw blade moves ninety degrees. Depending on the model, there is a red bolt on the side that needs to be unscrewed.

The soleplate is then rotated to a 45 degree angle and secures the bolt back. Take a piece of chipboard as a blank. We secure it with clamps to the table top so that the part is cut out of the table.

After setting the line. It is usually included with the circular saw. The saws have 2 marks zero and 45. We will cut 30 millimeters, for which we combine three on a line with a mark of forty-five on the sole. Then tighten the screw that secures the ruler.

Next, the sole should be positioned so that the ruler rests on the edge of the workpiece. The saw starts and, after it is completely unwound, presses the ruler firmly against the edge of the workpiece and moves forward.

Seeing advice

If you cut the edges with a chip, you should do the following:

Take a small sheet of 6 mm fiberboard.
Glue this sheet to the base using adhesive tape.
With the saw running, we plunge the blade into the rigid board to create a recess with zero clearance.

Accurate cutting pattern

How to make a cut? The device was made with a slight fit, after pressing the circular stop we sawed off the edge of the base to the desired length. The saw blade defines the cutting line for the circular saw.

The board is marked instead of a saw. Pressed with a lower accent to match the board, the edge is aligned. By having the saw go through the device first, cutting boards are more precise.

Make a straight cut using a circular saw

To create a guide, we take a piece of plywood from twenty-five to thirty centimeters wide. It must be secured along the intended cutting line.

If you need to cut long materials, it will take a lot of time to measure and set the straight guide on the marking. To simplify this process, you can make a template yourself, for example, from fiberboard. The edge of the template is aligned with a mark on the workpiece and there is a straight guide attached to the back that needs to be secured with a clamp.

You can even use a similar pattern to use a jigsaw or router bit.

Ways to cut the trim at 45 degrees without using a miter box

The easiest way is to use an ordinary protractor, which is found in every home where a school-age child lives. With its help, marking is not so difficult.

READ How to Cut 45 Degrees

Important: The drink itself is also important. To avoid the formation of cracks, it is recommended to use a hacksaw not for wood, but for metal. Yes, this method takes more time, but the cut will be much more accurate and smoother.

When the marking using a protractor is made, you need to position the platband on a horizontal surface so that the front side is at the top. It is recommended to make a cut along the entire plane of the clypeus.

If there are no office supplies nearby, you can use a regular tile, with which you can draw 90-degree angle By dividing it into 2 halves, we get a template for a 45-degree angle, which can be used for marking instead of a miter box.

If you have a ruler, the task becomes several times simpler. You just need to take a piece of paper A-4 and draw a square, and then draw the bisectors of the corners. To make it more convenient, you can take a small board and attach it to one of the corners, which will allow you to fix the structure. Well, then you need to attach the platband and start sawing.

Cutting and adjusting 45 degree angles

Using Templates

If you don’t have a protractor, miter box or ready-made corner elements, you’ll have to look for a suitable template. Of course, the template must have the desired angle . It is applied to the workpiece and the workpiece is marked with a pencil. This is one of the easiest ways to achieve the desired result.

Important features when choosing the right blade.

If you are a beginner and don't have the services of a circular saw expert, choosing the right blade can be a little daunting. There are different types of saw blades designed for different materials, types of cutting, and for different power saws. Then one of the most important characteristics when choosing is the diameter and type of blade. You just have to make sure that it is compatible with your circular saw model.

Here's a quick guide to help you find the right sheet:

Hand saws accept smaller diameter blades, typically 4 to 7 inches;
the saw will require a diamond blade with a diameter of 7-10 inches;
table saws require 10 or 12 inches, and table saw blades must have a carbide tip;
For cutting metal, 14-inch blades are typically used.

Another important feature is the RPM (or revolutions per minute). For example, smaller sheets have higher rotations and larger sheets have lower rotations. The recommended saw speed should be lower than the recommended blade speed

Please note that a saw's RPM does not directly indicate its cutting speed, so higher RPM does not mean it will cut faster

The diameter of the blade will affect the speed because the edge of the larger blade will move faster compared to the edge of the smaller blade as it covers more distance at the same time. On the other hand, don't rush to select a larger blade, as you also have to consider the desired cutting quality. So when looking for a suitable RPM indicator, consider the material you will be working on.

To do this, you must calculate the SFM, which is equal to Surface Foot Per Minute. The formula is as follows:

SFM = (diameter / 12) * O * RPM

Typically, you will need an SFM of 5,000 to 8,000 for wood materials, and less than 1,000 for metals.

Also pay attention to the cut line indicator when selecting a tool. This is so you can see where your sheet is going as you cut.

Without this, you will have a harder time cutting a straight line. The cut indicator is usually located on the motherboard and looks like two small notches. However, in some cases you may not be able to see the crop indicator. For such cases, a small window that shows you where the leaf is is helpful, so look for it. Feel free to grab the tool and see if it feels comfortable.

Next, take a look at the motherboard. What material is it made of? Magnesium base plates are more stable, but can break if you drop the saw. On the other hand, an aluminum base plate can flex when you need it most, while plastic base plates are stable and impact-resistant.

Regardless of the material, the base plate must be flat in length and width and have a straight edge. At the end, take a look at the guard. Guards with sharp or rough edges can get stuck on wood surfaces during cutting and make lifting difficult.

When it comes to what you are going to cut, you should also pay attention to the type of blade. Different types of materials work better with different types of blades

For example, there are blades designed for cutting wood, plastic and acrylic, metal and several materials. Here are some types you may need:

Rip Cut is wood cutting; Consequently, cutting blades are designed to cut along the grain: these blades have fewer teeth, specifically designed for aggressive cutting;
The cross-cut blade is designed for cutting grain and has 40 to 80 teeth designed to provide a clean cut;
Combination blades are used to make both crossed and ripped cuts as they have groups of teeth separated by a throat.

Since the teeth make a cut larger than the disc itself, its shape and quantity must be taken into account. This is another aspect of the blade that will affect your cutting performance. The more teeth, the more accurate the cut will be. Additionally, the shape of your teeth determines the quality of your cut. For example, the alternative top bevel type is suitable for quick cuts in rough wood that are along the grain. Multi-material blades are good for cross-section, and radial arm blades have a negative angle to avoid automatic feed.

Cutting methods

The product is installed around the perimeter of a rectangular room. Trimmed to finish right angles. Therefore, we will consider how to cut the baseboard at 45 degrees.

Cutting using a miter box

What is a miter box? This is a special tray made of wood, aluminum or plastic with grooves provided to guide the saw at the desired angle.

Here are brief instructions for using such a carpentry tool:

Preparation. We take the product and put it in the tray. We align it to the position in which it will be installed on the ceiling.
Cutting. With the other hand, insert the cutting tool into the groove. It could be a knife or a hacksaw. And we cut it boldly. The device will not allow you to miss the intended place.

You should know: the metal blade is also suitable for cutting foam plastic.

Treatment. The wooden baseboard may need to be further processed with a file to align the edges of the cut. Plastic or foam can be trimmed with a knife, as long as it is sharp enough.

Tip: when cutting, do not put pressure on the product. The polystyrene foam may crumble, and the wood may even split.

This miter box is so easy and simple to use

Cutting without a miter box

If you do not have such a device, and you are not going to purchase it for one-time use, then you can use the following methods on how to cut the baseboard at 45 degrees.

The first way is to make this simple carpentry tool yourself. To do this, knock down the most ordinary wooden tray. Then we measure the lines of the slots using a protractor or a school square. We cut the grooves and we have a primitive device ready.

Second way. How to cut a plinth at an angle is even simpler. It is especially painless to use in cases where the corners of the room are not even.

We don't need a tray. All you need is two boards bent at 90 degrees and a cardboard stencil with a line drawn for orientation.

Third way. In this case, we don’t knock anything down at all, but simply use a table placed against the wall or any other similar structure.

We mark future joints directly on the product itself, on the wall and on the ceiling. We place the plinth the way we are going to mount it and cut according to the marks.

The simplest way without the use of special devices

Remember: when cutting, keep the tool strictly vertical to obtain a right angle.

Tools used

There are several ways to cut a pipe; for this, construction and industrial tools for metal processing are used. Of all the types, only the grinder allows you to obtain curved surfaces without further processing with the closest arrangement of edges.

For individual use

The following tool is used for cutting steel pipes at home:

Manual pipe cutters. Allows you to cut round parts with an even, right angle of cut due to the cutting edges of the rollers. There are several varieties of products of this type, consisting of single rollers or a series of rollers attached to a chain. In everyday life, such devices are quite rare and are more suitable for professional work.

Bulgarian. It is a universal tool for cutting any metal parts with different angles; special metal discs are used for the work, which are ground down quite quickly during operation. This allows you to accurately cut a curved line with a small diameter disc.

Rice. 7 Customized pipe cutting tool

Gas-burner. A quick and effective method of cutting metal surfaces with a hot jet of flame; the disadvantages include melted edges, which complicate further welding. It is difficult to use a gas torch to cut a product according to a paper template, which will burn, and if a line is drawn, then it will practically not be visible in the stream of flame.

Electric pipe cutters. To work with pipelines of small diameters, you can use compact electric pipe cutters, whose operating principle is similar to a grinder. The device is called a roller machine; during operation, the part is mounted on a bed and rotated on roller guides; its surface is cut from above by an electrical device. The main difference between a pipe cutter is the metal disc, which has a special durable coating for cutting metal.

For industrial use

In industry, large-diameter pipelines are used to transport liquids and gases, so pipe cutting units are heavy and have large dimensions. There are also manual pipe cutters of the rotary and clamp operating principle. In the first case, the cutting rollers rotate along a round surface using an adjustable handle; in the second version, cutting is carried out by arcuate plates, which gradually move during rotation.

Rice. 8 Industrial pipe cutting equipment

How to cut the corners of a ceiling plinth - general rules

Trimming should be carried out along the outer edge of the plinth, as well as from the inside (when forming an external corner) or the front side (for internal joining). If everything is done correctly, the texture of the cornice will not be disturbed. At home, foam finishing materials are most often used. The technology for joining elements is as follows.

Using a protractor, measure the angle between the walls. If it is strictly equal to 90°, you need to cut the edges at 45°. The action is performed on both elements.
If the joints between the ceiling and walls are not even, the corner radius should be divided in half. In this case, the baguette, which will be attached on the left side, is cut on the right, and the right element, accordingly, on the left.
The edges of the inner corner parts are cut so that the top part is shorter than the bottom. The edges of the outer corner are formed differently: their lower part is shorter than the upper.
Unlike foam baseboards, wooden parts must be precisely adjusted to each other and to adjacent surfaces, applying and cutting along the abutment line.

Ceiling plinth (corners): the photo demonstrates techniques for trimming and joining elements:

Technology for cutting pipes at right angles

If we exclude the options used in industry - dies with mandrels, devices for radial cutting - then there are not many solutions available to the home craftsman. In any case, you will need either a hacksaw or a hand grinder. The adjustment is facilitated by the fact that the tubular product always has only linear contact with the cutting plane.

How to saw off a metal pipe smoothly? It is enough to firmly clamp the metal workpiece with parallel clamps, mark the cutting area with a marker and cut it to size. Of course, within the gaps between the hacksaw blade and the mounting bases of the hacksaw, play is always possible, resulting in a burr on the joint surface. If subsequently the inclined section of such a joint is joined to another element of the pipeline using manual arc welding, then this is not a problem: everything can be corrected (within reasonable limits) by changing the thickness of the weld. Otherwise, you should simply select a new tool and constantly monitor the marker markings during the cutting process.

It’s even easier to cut the end using a pipe cutter (it’s inexpensive, in extreme cases you can borrow it from a more skilled neighbor). This tool is equipped with a special screw-type feeding device. The sequence of actions using a single-roller pipe cutter is as follows:

The surface of the workpiece is thoroughly cleaned of traces of dirt, grease or scale.
The divided area is tightly compressed with jaws (if the pipe is made of soft metal, for example, aluminum, it is better to place a rubber corrugated plate between the jaws: the clamping friction will increase).
By rotating the feed screw, the cutting roller is gradually inserted into the wall until the roller cuts through it.
Change the position of the round pipe, rotating it 1200 so that the cutting roller comes into contact with the new cut section, and repeat the transition.
We perform one more reinstallation - and the straight section of pipe is ready. All that remains is to clean the areas of the overlap.

There are three- and four-roller pipe cutters, where the cutting process is quite simple, since the number of reinstallations is correspondingly reduced.

How to cut steel pipe at 45 or 90 degree angle? First, you should check whether the pipe cutter you already have is suitable for sawing a particular part. The following are taken into account:

Strength limit of the material;
Diameter or wall thickness;
The condition of the cutting edges of the roller/rollers and the gaps in their axes.

Note: In especially critical cases, you should first practice on an unnecessary piece of pipe.

Sharp angle cut

"Trust but check!" - it’s worth remembering this saying when using a miter gauge. Let's be more precise: although the stop is equipped with a scale with degree division, you should not fully rely on it if you want to achieve high accuracy.

Let's say you need to connect two planks “on the mustache,” that is, at a right angle. This means that the cut of each plank must be exactly 45 degrees to the longitudinal edge (not 44 or 46 degrees). Only then will the connection be tight and the adhesive seam flawless.

To check how accurately the miter gauge is set, make several test cuts. So, saw the plank at a 45 degree angle, rotate it and saw it a second time to create an isosceles triangle. Then repeat the entire operation.

Checking the joint

Place both triangles on a flat surface and join them together: the seam between them should be tight, without a gap. If the miter gauge is installed incorrectly, then the joint will be approximately the same as in the photo below (in this case, the gap widens towards the top of the triangles, which means that the plank was sawn at an angle of less than 45 degrees). If you find such deviations from the specified angle, adjust the position of the miter gauge and make repeated control cuts.

The joining of the control triangles shows that the angle stop is not installed accurately: the connection should be tight, without a gap.

Advantages of tile end sharpening technology

The development of sharpening the ends at 45 degrees eliminates the need to use decorative corners when finishing external corners. Thanks to this, it will be possible to make the wall look neat. Such corners have a more discreet and elegant appearance than those trimmed with corners. Agree, this is much more exciting than tiles laid on tiles or plastic inserted.

Electric tile cutter

A tile cutter is a machine for cutting tiles at 45 degrees, also for cutting them longitudinally and transversely. This device has a water cooling system. In addition, water helps to remove virtually all the dust that occurs during the cutting of porcelain stoneware or clay tiles. The main advantage of a tile cutter is its accuracy. He cuts one at a time, following a previously given line of movement. This allows you to eliminate the influence of reasons such as trembling of the master’s hands. In the end, the cut comes out very even and careful.

Tile cutters can cut at almost any angle. True, craftsmen often cut tiles at an angle of 90 degrees or 45 degrees.

Cutting without tools

How to cut the corner of a ceiling plinth without a miter box? It is possible to perform calculations and cuts manually.

It is enough to make a good marking on the ceiling, then evenly cut off the desired angle. A significant disadvantage of this option is the inconvenience when you have to hold all the strips with your hands during the measurement process. In general, this method helps to make the necessary measurements just as well.

By attaching the product to the place where it will be mounted, you can immediately take into account all the errors on the walls.

First, two pieces are cut at an angle of 90 degrees. Then they apply one of the planks, resting it perpendicularly against the wall. Draw a line along the ceiling, outlining the desired contour. Then remove the bar and apply a second one for counter marking. The intersection of the lines will be the cutting point. Then the place for the future cut is marked on the slats.

Experienced carpenters, joiners and builders know best how to cut ceiling plinths in corners. Most people advise making cuts from the side and fitting the planks to the ceiling; if necessary, cutting in the direction where the part meets the surface.

Having made a rough joining, screw the finished fillets to the wall. The seams are sealed - installation of the plinth is completed.

Ceiling plinth serves as an excellent means of masking various irregularities that inevitably arise at the junctions of walls and ceilings. The result is not only a visually even corner, but also a fairly aesthetically complete interior.

An important point in attaching the ceiling plinth is its correct measurements and cutting.

So, let's look at how you can cut a ceiling plinth.

First, let's define what a ceiling plinth is and what it can be made from.

Various materials are used to make ceiling plinth strips. It can be quite flexible polyurethane, wood, polystyrene foam, PVC.

Polyurethane skirting boards are considered the most durable, stable and flexible. By the way, it is worth noting that this decorative element also has its own name – fillet. Because it can be confused with moldings that are attached to a flat surface of the walls or ceiling.

90 degree cutting

To cut a round pipeline or metal profile of rectangular cross-section evenly across, use a sheet of plain paper. They wrap the workpiece so that the edges of the paper sheet coincide, after which it is fixed to the part using tape or glue. Using a grinder, a thin line is drawn near the edge of the paper sheet, after which it is gradually deepened until it is completely cut out.

Collar insert

To obtain branches of metal pipeline lines in the form of tees, a collar insert is used, for which it is necessary to cut the edge of a round pipe adjacent to the walls of another at a right angle. To implement the method proceed as follows:

cut the edges of the workpiece at right angles using the previously described method.
On the round end surface, a marker marks four equidistant points located at angles of 90 and 180 degrees to each other.
The size of the circle is measured, the resulting diameter is divided by 3. The resulting distance is plotted from two diametrically located points, after which these points are connected to two others by a smooth arc, drawing a line with a marker.

Fig.5 Example of a collar section of a pipe

According to the markings, a cut is made with a grinder and semicircular segments are separated, after which the part is ready for welding. If there are minor inaccuracies in the mating, it can be compacted with a sledgehammer, placing it against the round surface of another element.

How to cut tiles at forty-five degrees?

Why is this?
Tools

Electronic machine
Manual tile cutter
Bulgarian

Main rules How to correctly form an acute angle? Cutting without special tools How to make a mosaic cutout?

The presence of corners or protrusions on the wall, different methods of laying tiles, and also the unusual dimensions of the room play a huge role in the tiling workflow, causing additional difficulties. Therefore, you often have to deal with the need to sand tiles.

On the outside, right angles, which are set at 40 5 degrees, form a careful right angle with a smooth transition, so there is no need to resort to using expensive aluminum or plastic corners. But in order for the cuts to be precise and consistent with other parts of the tile, special tools should be used.

Composition and features of the material

To understand how to properly cut a plinth, you need to understand its composition. This will help you choose the right tool and cutting technology.

Styrofoam. The price and strength of this material are the lowest. But since we are creating a decorative decoration for the ceiling, strength is not particularly required.
Ceiling plinth made of polystyrene foam is more dense. than regular foam. To cut such material, the most ordinary knife is used.

Tip: sharpen the knife well before use. This will eliminate the presence of torn edges at the incision sites.

How to cut a skirting board straight

Tree. Here you will have to put more effort into processing. For wood, use only a hacksaw.

A few words about tools and materials

Floor skirting boards are now made of wood or polyvinyl chloride (PVC), in other words, plastic. For ceiling fillets, the list is a little longer:

The range of ceiling plinths is much wider than that of the floor type.

Polyurethane - these skirting boards have good elasticity and can bend around radial and other curved surfaces, but in any case they need to be trimmed to precise angles;
Foam plastic is the simplest budget option, the price of foam skirting boards is low and they are very easy to cut;
PVC - the principle is the same as that of floor skirting boards, but the model range is much wider;
Wooden - similar to floor ones, only here there are also wide models;
Gypsum - with the advent of polyurethane and foam plastic, gypsum ceiling fillets faded into the background, firstly, they are heavy, and secondly, fragile. But to be fair, they are worth mentioning.

Since it is impossible to correctly cut the ceiling plinth and its floor counterpart without a good tool, we will dwell on this issue in a little more detail.

The best, almost ideal tool for trimming any skirting boards and more is a miter saw with a rotating bed. The high-speed disc makes smooth and precise cuts, and the bed in these units rotates to any angle. The only problem is the serious cost of this tool.

A miter saw is an almost ideal tool for cutting baseboards and more.

It is believed that one of the best hand tools for precision cutting of small blocks is a back saw. In principle, this is true, but I’ll tell you honestly, it’s not easy to find a really high-quality saw, even with the current assortment. If you decide to buy such a tool, then take a saw with a fine tooth.

An abrasive saw is convenient when working with a miter box.

Theoretically, foam and polyurethane can be cut with any sharp and durable knife. But at the same time you need to have a steady hand and at least a little experience in cutting foam. Plus, cutting wide fillets with a knife is very problematic.

Without experience, making a clear cut with a knife is very problematic.

Personally, if I don’t have a crosscut tool, I only use a hacksaw. It is suitable for cutting absolutely any material, from foam to wood. By the way, people often ask the question of how to cut a plastic baseboard for the floor, so take a hacksaw for metal and you definitely can’t go wrong.

For cutting skirting boards, a hacksaw is considered one of the best tools.

What is a miter box for?

A miter box is a hand-held carpentry tool for precise cutting of boards and other lumber at the required angle. When making a wooden frame, installing platbands and baseboards, or performing any other work related to cutting boards, you will definitely be faced with the need to create a perfect corner cut - the so-called miter joint. In order for the joints of the parts to fit tightly and have no gaps, the cutting angle must be as accurate as possible. Here a miter box becomes an ideal assistant.

There are several design options for this device. In our article we will dwell in detail on the main types of miter boxes, tell you how to choose and correctly use this hand tool to create a flawless burr.

What tools will you need?

Miter box - this aluminum, plastic or wooden professional carpentry tool has the shape of a groove in the shape of an inverted letter P. With its help, the material can be sawed at the required angle. Usually it is mounted on a table or workbench. It is safe and easy to use;

An electric miter saw that replaces a miter box. Provides high cutting accuracy; An electric jigsaw that can be used to accurately cut corners; A sharp and well-sharpened knife for processing foam baseboards; A saw for manipulating wooden baguettes or a blade - when working with all others, including foam and plastic.

Methods for cutting metal products at an angle

Conventional perpendicular cutting at 90°, using a grinder, is carried out quickly and efficiently, if you do not neglect the advice of specialists.

Many people believe that if a large tool with a large powerful disk is used for sawing, then there is no need to apply markings. Experts do not recommend sawing without marking, because after cutting the parts may not align.

Features of cutting a cylindrical pipe at 45

Most often, making a cut at an angle of 45 degrees is required when installing heating or plumbing systems. The main difficulty in carrying out the work is that after combining the cut parts of the pipe, a right angle of 90 degrees should be obtained. A simple way to prepare a homemade pattern will help you achieve the quality of the cutting process:

Prepare a plain white sheet of paper.
Fold it diagonally.
The protruding part of the sheet must be cut off with scissors so that when unfolded you get a square.
The resulting triangle must be wrapped around the pipe so that the long side runs parallel to the section.

A paper template is great for cutting metal products in the middle.

Paper template

The resulting triangle, folded in half, must be divided into two parts. Then the templates need to be wrapped around the pipe and secured with tape or tape. The templates should be positioned so that one edge of the base coincides with the second.

Use scissors to round the top corners of both templates. The resulting two blanks of the required diameter should be placed on the pipe, and the cut location should be marked with chalk or a pencil. The prepared marked part can be safely sawed off.

For small diameter tubes that need to be cut close to the edge, the marking method using a container of water is suitable. The desired angle of inclination of the cut is marked on a deep container, then the end of the tube is placed in the water and tilted towards the marking. The line of contact with the liquid will become a cutting mark.

How to mark a 45mm cut on a profile pipe

Not everyone knows how to cut a profile pipe at 45 degrees with a grinder correctly and efficiently. Experts advise using an ordinary triangular ruler to mark a profile pipe with a square cross-section.

First, a straight strip should be drawn on one of the faces, located perpendicular to the side of the pipe. Then the workpiece must be rotated and an oblique mark applied to the adjacent face. It should go from the edge of the first strip at an angle of 45 degrees.

After this, the product is turned again and a perpendicular line is drawn. On the fourth side, all that remains is to connect the previously drawn stripes diagonally. Now you can start cutting.

Cutting parts at an angle using a protractor

You can cut the part at an angle using a protractor. This is a measuring tool that is easy to use, and which is designed specifically for measuring angles or making the necessary markings on certain parts. The protractor is applied to the part, the angle is marked and the markings are made with a pencil. Using these markings, cutting the workpiece at the desired angle will not be difficult.

How to file a corner of a plinth at the required distance

The second and all other corners of the baseboards must be done at a certain distance. If the next corner is again an internal one and the distance to it is less than the length of the plank, we use the same fragment that already has a notch on it. We measure the distance using a tape measure - strictly from corner to corner. Then this distance is laid out on the bar using the same tape measure. We align the beginning of the measuring tape with the protrusion, measure the required distance, and make a mark with a pencil. This will be the starting point for the cutting.

You need to know at what distance to cut

The plinth with the mark is placed in a miter box, and the desired cutting direction is selected. The dash can be combined with a hacksaw blade or with a slot in a miter box. Whichever is convenient for you. Cut off. This segment must be “tried on” in place. If both corners rest against opposite walls or the gap is only 1 mm, everything is fine. You can cut a second strip from a new piece to form a joint. And again we remove the flaws with sandpaper.

If the length of the wall is greater than the length of the baseboard strip, take a new strip. We will cut the second corner on it

It is important not to make a mistake in which direction to cut. Having installed both planks along the wall, mark the junction on one of them and make a straight cut

There are also slots in the miter box for straight cutting. So there won't be any problems.

How to connect two skirting boards in a straight line

But a straight joint does not always look perfect, and during operation it often diverges, forming a visible gap. If you wish, you can cut two strips at an angle (any angle).

To do this, first cut off the edge of one plank at an angle and mark the joint on the second one. The mark is placed on the side of the plinth that is pressed against the wall. Using this mark, we saw off another section, without changing the position of the saw relative to the miter box, but inserting the bar on the other side. The joint is made obliquely. He's more careful. The difference is especially visible on wooden skirting boards and MDF. Once again, polish the cut using sandpaper.

First joint in the room

The first strip of the baseboard should be cut as close to the edge as possible. Carpenters have their own jargon and they say "cut" a corner.

It doesn’t matter what you call it, it’s important that we set the bar in the miter box so that we can make the cut at the very beginning. Using the cutting line, we extend the bar a short distance, for starters maybe 1-2 cm

Cutting off a smaller piece is more difficult, so save the savings “for later” when at least some skill appears.

In the miter box, we place the floor plinth against the far wall “facing” ourselves. This makes it easier to check whether you are cutting/sawing correctly

Next, you need to make a corner on the baseboard like this:

We place the plinth in the miter box and press it against the wall opposite to us. We set it in its mounting position - as it will stand against the wall.
We insert the hacksaw into the required slots (see the picture below).
We move the bar so that it extends slightly beyond the cutting line.
Let's cut it off.
We take the second piece of plinth, repeat the same operations, but change the position of the saw on the miter box to the opposite. We insert the bar on the other side. Be careful here, otherwise you will have to redo it several times, as the connection will not work.

How to properly cut a floor plinth in a miter box: for external and internal joints

We received two sections sawn down for joining in the inner corner. To make the joint perfect, we try on the parts in place. Most likely, there are some flaws. Take medium-grit sandpaper and remove everything that interferes with joining. Then using fine grain we achieve a tight joint without cracks or gaps.

When connecting skirting boards in a corner, use transparent silicone sealant. Before installing the fasteners, a layer of silicone is applied to the cut. Immediately after the plinth is fixed, we remove the excess that appears on the outside. Clean until the surface is completely clean. This method of connecting skirting boards in the corners looks more neat and does not get clogged with dirt and dust.

The design and principle of operation of a circular saw

The main parts of a hand-held circular saw include:

Electric motor. With its help, rotational energy is created, which is needed for cutting the material.
Frame. For its manufacture, plastic is used that is resistant to temperatures and shocks. It has holes for ventilation.
Handle with start button. The latter is equipped with a lock designed to prevent accidental pressing.
A platform with a guide (it is also called a sole or base plate). Thanks to this element, the tool is moved along the workpiece being cut.
Spindle for fixing replaceable disks.
Gearbox. It is designed to reduce the speed, load on the rotor and bearings of the electric motor.
Main and additional handles.

The principle of operation of the equipment is to transmit torque from the motor shaft to the cutting disc. The latter rotates around its axis at high speed, this makes it easy to saw the prepared surface.

Circular saw device

What can you do with electric circular saws?

Electric circular saws allow you to process wood and wood-based products in different ways, which depend on the type of tool chosen.

Types of work with a hand-held circular saw

The following types of work can be performed with a hand-held circular saw:

trim multiple workpieces laid in one plane;

trim wide boards using a rip fence that cannot be cut on a pendulum saw;

trim boards when laying floors;

trim the workpiece at an angle, without a guide and with its use;

perform longitudinal sawing of the workpiece at an angle;

align the unedged board along a pre-drawn line;

choose a quarter in a board or timber;

cut sheet materials using a guide rail;

By changing the equipment, you can use a circular saw to cut metal profiled sheets;

cut plexiglass and various types of plastic;

Place the hand saw in the table and use it as a stationary circular saw.

Working on a circular saw

Working with a circular saw (stationary) is slightly different from working with a hand-held unit. Using a circular saw you can do the following:

cut and trim wide workpieces, both with a straight cut and at an angle;

perform longitudinal and transverse sawing of wooden panels;

cutting wood-based sheet materials;

open the board at an angle;

sawing an unedged board.

Types of work with a miter saw

You can do the following with a miter saw:

trim wood blanks at any angle relative to the edge;

trim the workpiece at an angle to its face;

a miter saw with a broach allows you to cut wider workpieces;

Pressure spring

Anyone who frequently uses a circular saw can fully appreciate the usefulness and even the necessity of this device, which ensures absolute precision in processing - especially when sawing narrow boards and bars - while allowing you to keep your fingers at a safe distance from the saw blade. This spring presses the part against the rip fence without the risk of jamming it.

You can make such a spring yourself using the same circular saw. A wide plank of hard, fine-fiber wood, 40 to 50 cm long, is suitable as a workpiece. The plank is cut at one end at an angle of 45 degrees. Then several parallel cuts are made in the beveled end part. As a result, a kind of comb is formed. Although each of its teeth (about 5 mm thick) itself is quite soft and elastic, a comb of 15-20 such teeth provides a reliable elastic support.

Counter support

The pressing spring is secured with a clamp on the work table with a circular saw so that the beveled end edge is parallel to the saw blade. The second bar as a counter support is placed at right angles to the pressing spring. The bar securely holds the spring, preventing the part from moving. The presence of a pressure spring in no way precludes the use of a protective guard over the saw blade.

An oblique “comb” at the end of a wide bar presses the part against the parallel stop.

JBTS-10 Table Saw Manufacturer Details

The supplier of the JBTS-10 table saw is JPW Tools AG Switzerland, which is a subsidiary of Walter Meier (Tool) AG. Website address: www.jettools.com

In Russia, Jet products are exclusively represented by ITA-SPb, St. Petersburg, founded in 2004, as a subsidiary endowed with all rights for sales, promotion and technical service.

Machines manufactured by JPW Tools AG, Switzerland, China

JBTS-10
– circular table saw
JKM-300
– combined woodworking machine
JPS-10ts
– stationary circular saw
JPT-10B
— tabletop jointing-thicknessing machine
JPT-310
– stationary planer-thicknesser machine
JRT-2
– milling table
JTS-315sp
– construction circular saw
JWP-12
- table thickness planer
PKM-300
– combined woodworking machine
BD-3
- table lathe Ø 100
BD-7
– table-top screw-cutting lathe Ø 180
BD-8
– table-top screw-cutting lathe Ø 210
BD-920w
– table lathe Ø 220

How to use a miter box correctly

Using a miter box greatly simplifies the work of the master. Next, let's look at what a miter box is used for using specific examples. Before work, carefully read the instructions from the manufacturer.

How to cut material

To properly cut an element, you need to carefully prepare the material by taking a miter box with a saw. The presence of grooves allows you to make accurate and even workpieces since the saw will take the set position. The first step is to secure the tool with screws or a clamp on a flat surface. Next, use a pencil or laser to make a mini-drawing. The workpiece is placed in the tray. In this case, the marking should be opposite the corresponding slot. Then a hacksaw is inserted and the cut is made.

45 degree cutting

The position of any circular saw is adjustable. Thus, the saw blade can be installed at an angle of 45 degrees or higher to the surface of the work table. Incisions at an angle of less than 45 degrees are rarely performed. But if such a need arises - for example, you need to cut a plank at an angle of 30 degrees - then you can rotate the part 90 degrees and make a cut at an angle of 60 degrees. However, this operation can be simplified if a wooden strip of the required thickness is placed under the edge of the workpiece. Then the saw blade installed at an angle of 45 degrees to the table surface will cut into the part at an angle of 30 degrees. The support strip is attached to the underside of the part with a few drops of hot melt adhesive. If the part to be beveled is long, a strip of the appropriate length or several short pieces is glued to it. To accurately determine the position or thickness of the support bar, the desired bevel angle is marked on the end edge of the part. Then the part is placed on the table so that the 45-degree mark of the drawing triangle exactly coincides with the markings on the part. If, after sawing, traces of hot-melt adhesive are found on the part that will be used, they can be removed by simply breaking them off when separating the support bar from the workpiece.

A piece of strip placed under the part being cut slightly changes the position of the latter. In this way, you can cut parts at an angle of less than 45 degrees.

How to cut correctly?

Let's consider step by step how to correctly and evenly cut an aluminum profile.

First you need to apply markings to the metal workpiece. To do this, you can use a ruler or tape measure. Markers should be placed with a marker.
A perpendicular mark must be applied to the product. It is along this that the side planes will be trimmed.
Then folds are made along the marking line. Lastly, cut along the fold.
If we are talking about cutting a rack profile, then the master needs to remember that it has auxiliary stiffeners. Sometimes they come out slightly uneven. You can trim them with scissors. Slats with a length of up to 1 m can be cut by weight, but longer parts will require fixation in supports or a vice.
To prepare lintels or small structures, the profile should be cut at an angle of 45 degrees. First you need to saw off the slats to the required length, after which you should mark the angle of the cut and complete the procedure by cutting it.

Profile cutting must be carried out strictly according to technology

When working with any tool, it is very important not to forget about compliance with safety regulations. It is better to stock up on all the necessary personal protective equipment, and carry out the work itself carefully, without rushing

You can see how to properly cut an aluminum profile in the video below.

Method of joining platbands without trimming

Today, platbands are often not cut at an angle and then joined together, but the joints are made at right angles. This method of connecting platbands does not require any special trimming, which is very convenient. In addition, this method looks more modern and attractive.

Cutting at an angle using a miter box

If you still need to cut this or that part at an angle, then you should stock up on a miter box - a simple device that looks like a small box. The miter box has slots that are designed for a saw or a long sharp knife. Of course, these slots are made to form a smooth and precise 45 degree angle.

However, a miter box can have many slots at once, at different angles. This is convenient because with the help of one device you can trim any parts at different angles.

There are adjustable miter boxes on sale. The slots in such a miter box can be adjusted, which allows the master to set exactly the angle that is required at the moment. In particular, it is quite simple to move the slits of such a miter box to a position of 45 degrees.

Now you can trim the workpiece simply. A baguette, platband or plinth is placed in the miter box, after which a saw is inserted into the slots and the excess is simply cut off. The angle ends up being perfect, exactly 45 degrees.

What to do if there is no miter box? Very simple. You need to make a template according to which it will not be difficult to transfer the necessary markings to the workpieces. As a template, you can choose thick cardboard or anything else that will be appropriate in this case.

How to properly cut a ceiling plinth at an angle of 45

Corner elements for ceiling plinths can be easily trimmed using a miter box or by hand. In the first case, you will need a miter box and a hacksaw, and in the second, a pencil and a hacksaw/cardboard knife. The hacksaw blade should be well sharpened so that you don’t have to think about how to cover up chips and roughness on the cut.

Cutting a corner using a miter box

We take a polyurethane ceiling plinth. designed for the left or right side of a corner. We lean it against the future installation location so that the end of the segment opposite from the corner is against the edge of the already glued molding. In the place where the bottom edge of the ceiling plinth touches the top of the wall corner, make a dot with a pencil or stick a piece of insulating tape. We repeat these steps with the second segment.

How to cut an external corner of a ceiling plinth:

We place the left blank in the miter box from left to right, pressing it to the edge closest to us. The corner vertex mark should coincide with the leftmost slot in the same edge
We place the right blank from right to left, pressing it to the near edge. The mark for the top of the corner is to the far right slot.

How to saw down a ceiling plinth at an internal corner? Everything is very simple, the actions will be exactly the same, only the location of the corner vertex mark changes. Here it’s the other way around: for the left segment – the far right slot, and for the right – the far left. The finished ceiling fillets must be aligned, and then the joints should be held up to the light - there should be no gaps. If they are very small, then editing is not necessary; you can get by with sealing with putty material after installation.

How to make a corner of a ceiling plinth: positioning the workpiece in a miter box

Important: sometimes the angles deviate too much from the standard 45 degrees, and a simple miter box for the ceiling plinth becomes useless - you can cut off the excess. The solution would be to purchase a rotary tool, but it is not cheap and this “one-time” purchase will be irrational. In this case, you can use the intersecting point method.

In this case, you can use the intersecting point method.

How to cut the corners of a ceiling plinth without a miter box

If you are wondering how to properly cut down a ceiling plinth without a miter box, then the following information will be useful to you. We take the right section of the ceiling plinth made of foam plastic, apply it to the installation site and draw a line on the ceiling along its upper edge. It should extend beyond the vertices of the corners by about 5 cm. We do the same with the left segment and put points at the intersections of the lines. We put the ceiling plinths in place one by one and transfer the resulting marks to them.

We've dealt with the upper part of the ceiling moldings, now let's move on to the lower part. Everything is simple here, the marks we need are the vertices of the corners. We mark their location with dots on the lower edges of the left and right ceiling plinth. Next, you need to connect the dots on the moldings - this will be the cutting line. This method will help you cope with even the crooked corners. Adjustment will most likely not be needed, and if it is, it will be minimal.

How to cut a ceiling plinth without a special tool: the photo shows marks for the intersecting point method

Important: the work described here requires marking the surfaces. Therefore, first you need to start cutting and fitting the ceiling plinth, and only then think about how to glue the wallpaper. Or, if you want to mount the plinth on top of the wallpaper, we do the marking and trimming before finishing, and gluing after it

Or, if you want to mount the plinth on top of the wallpaper, we do the marking and trimming before the final finishing, and the gluing after it.

How to cut skirting boards at inner corners: step-by-step action plan

Begin installing the skirting boards in one of the corners. If this is your first experience, choose the part of the room in which something will stand. Not always, of course, the first pancake is lumpy, but still it’s better to play it safe. To make a neat corner on the baseboard, work slowly. One was sawed off, checked, adjusted. Let's move on to the next one. It is better to fasten after two adjacent corners have been assembled. But you shouldn’t delay the assembly too much either.

Trimming skirting boards in corners requires certain skills. But by making a few joints yourself, you can beautifully design complex angles

How to use a miter box to cut baseboards? Place the device in front of you, preferably on a table, but it can also be on the floor

It doesn’t matter which way you turn it, it’s symmetrical. Insert the bar into the profile, turn it so it will stand against the wall

When cutting down a floor plinth in a miter box, the “wall” is the wall that is farthest from you. Once again: firmly press the baseboard strip against the back wall in the position in which it will be installed. Insert a hacksaw into the required slots. You can start sawing.

First joint in the room

The first strip of the baseboard should be cut as close to the edge as possible. Carpenters have their own jargon and they say "cut" a corner.

It doesn’t matter what you call it, it’s important that we set the bar in the miter box so that we can make the cut at the very beginning. We push the bar a short distance beyond the cutting line, for starters maybe 1-2 cm

Cutting off a smaller piece is more difficult, so save the savings “for later” when at least some skill appears.

In the miter box, we place the floor plinth against the far wall “facing” ourselves. This makes it easier to check whether you are cutting/sawing correctly

Next, you need to make a corner on the baseboard like this:

We place the plinth in the miter box and press it against the wall opposite to us. We set it in its mounting position - as it will stand against the wall.
We insert the hacksaw into the required slots (see the picture below).
We move the bar so that it extends slightly beyond the cutting line.
Let's cut it off.
We take the second piece of plinth, repeat the same operations, but change the position of the saw on the miter box to the opposite. We insert the bar on the other side. Be careful here, otherwise you will have to redo it several times, as the connection will not work.

How to properly cut a floor plinth in a miter box: for external and internal joints

How to file a corner of a plinth at the required distance

You need to know at what distance to cut

If the length of the wall is greater than the length of the baseboard strip, take a new strip. We will cut the second corner on it

It is important not to make a mistake in which direction to cut. Having installed both planks along the wall, mark the junction on one of them and make a straight cut

There are also slots in the miter box for straight cutting. So there won't be any problems.

Narrowing the gap

It's not often that a DIYer has to cut very narrow strips of wood, as shown, for example, in the photo above. But if such a need arises, then care should be taken to ensure that thin cuttings do not fall into the gap between the work table and the saw blade, get stuck there, and then fly out at great speed, crossing the entire workshop.

The main thing in work is safety. For this, you can sacrifice a piece of plywood or hard fiber board. Saw the selected piece lengthwise, but not the entire length, place it on the table and attach it to the rear side edge of the table with clamps or using strips of adhesive tape on both sides.

How to make a miter box yourself?

If desired, a miter box can be made at home. It can be made of wood or iron. The dimensions of the workpiece do not play a special role, but the wider it is, the more accurate your cuts will be. However, if the width is greater than the length of the hacksaw with which you will cut the baseboards or boards, then sawing will be extremely inconvenient, so you do not need to take a workpiece that is too wide.

First, a transverse straight line is marked in the center of the workpiece. Then, at a distance of 1/2 the width of the workpiece from the intersection of the straight line with the edges of the workpiece, marks are made. Then these marks are connected crosswise, as shown in the figure.

Wooden miter box, fastened with self-tapping screws

Next, the process of marking the side walls of the miter box begins. Attach them to the already marked base and make marks, focusing on the markings of the base. Then draw straight lines from these marks across the entire wall.

Scheme for making a wooden miter box

After this, the process of installing the miter box begins. The walls must be attached to the base using self-tapping screws if the device is made of wood or chipboard, or corners with bolts if it is made of steel. Only after installation, the slots for the saw are cut in the miter box.

After making the slits, the miter box is ready. If you have a large amount of work or want to do repairs regularly (on a professional basis), this simple device can speed up the process of cutting skirting boards by 5-10 times.

Cut line

Anyone who brings the part to the saw blade with the casing lowered cannot see whether the cut line coincides with the marking line. In this case, you should not give in to the desire to lift the guard and work with an open saw, without protection.

It is better to put a mark on the workbench that will clearly indicate the cutting line and help process the parts in accordance with the markings. To do this, stick a self-adhesive label on the table, use the miter gauge to slightly move the bar towards the rotating disk, and immediately pull the miter gauge back along with the bar. After this, it will no longer be difficult to transfer the cutting line from the plank to the label.

It is recommended that the mark be made in the form of a clear stroke exactly the same width as the gap in the table. This makes it possible to control the position of the part during the sawing process, and will also make it easier to install the rip fence at the required distance from the cutting disc with millimeter precision.

Angle check

When installing a miter gauge on a circular saw bench, you should not rely entirely on the degree scale: often cast or stamped marks are inaccurate, as confirmed by checking with a regular drafting square.

Periodically check the position of the saw blade itself in relation to the table surface - especially after miter cutting. To do this, set the disc to the maximum cutting depth and attach a square to the disc. This will allow you to quickly identify whether any set screw has become loose due to vibration from the running engine.

Place the square on the saw blade and you will immediately see whether it is at right angles to the table surface.

How to cut a board at a 45 degree angle

Place the square on the plane of the saw blade and check that the miter gauge is installed strictly perpendicular to the blade.