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Plywood is very easy to process. It can be processed in a variety of ways, both with simple hand tools and with power woodworking tools. When processing general-purpose plywood, you need to pay attention to the fact that the glue used to glue veneer sheets together quickly damages and dulls the cutting tool, so increased requirements for hardness are imposed on tools for processing plywood. There are also modern laser and hydraulic cutting systems, but in the context of our story there is no point in talking about them, because rarely anyone uses them at home. Sawing

The best cutting results are obtained when using a circular saw.
A band saw can produce a so-called “wave”. To get a clean cut, sawing must be done correctly. First, you need to cut plywood across the direction of the fibers of the front side, then along. This way we avoid splitting corners. On the side of plywood with a higher grade (the front side), sawing is done with a hand or band saw, on the side with a lower grade - with a circular or contour saw. When sawing with a circular saw, it is necessary to use a high blade speed and a low plywood feed rate. The penetration depth of the circular saw teeth should be set to small. Drilling
To get a neat hole, the drill must be sharp enough and equipped with a front cutter.
You need to drill from the side with a higher grade. To prevent splitting on the back side of the plywood board, you need to use a backing sheet. Driving nails
To attach plywood to walls, ceilings and floors, it is best to use threaded nails or special screws; it is advisable that the head is hidden or pressed in.
To ensure that the heads are not visible on the surface, you can also use ordinary wire nails. When using plywood for exterior applications, it is best to use acid-proof nails as they will protect against rust on the surface of the plywood. Nails should be 2.5-3 times longer than the thickness of the plywood. The interval between nails for plywood boards for walls and ceilings is recommended to be 10-20 cm along the edges, 20-30 cm in the middle, depending on the load and type of nails. In plywood slabs under the floor, the interval should be 20-30 cm along the edges and 40-50 cm in the middle. Since the structure of the plywood board consists of veneer strips with transverse and longitudinal fibers, the nails can be placed close to the edge. A distance to the edge of the plywood board of 12-15 mm is considered suitable. In structures where load resistance is required, the strength and reliable fixation of nails plays an important role. The nails must be driven in the correct order, they must be long, with large heads. It is more reliable to use screws or self-tapping screws. The strength of the structure can also be improved by using glue at the joints of the plywood. Installation
During structural work, plywood is fastened using glue, nails, staples, screws, rivets or bolts.
When choosing a method for attaching plywood, it is necessary to take into account the operating conditions, required strength and appearance. Before installation, it is necessary to prepare the plywood from the point of view of the final operating conditions. Precautions must be taken to prevent possible expansion or contraction of the plywood board due to exposure to moisture or temperature changes. It is advisable to leave a gap of 2 mm at the joints. Elastic filler can be used, for example, between the edge of the panel and the steel frame of the structure. In heated structures, normal ventilation of the plywood board must be provided. Butt joint of plywood
The type of butt joint greatly influences the quality of plywood structures.
There are several types of butt joints for plywood slabs: tongue and groove joints, tenon joints and others. When performed correctly, they ensure the reliability of the structure of walls, floors and supporting elements. The ends of a plywood board are usually the weakest link, so the joints must be processed especially carefully, especially if the plywood is intended for external work. When finishing walls and ceilings, the following end-to-end joints of plywood are recommended: open, tongue-and-groove, seam and strip joints. For outdoor work, strip connections provide the best protection from external influences. Vertical and horizontal aluminum profiles protect the edges of the plywood board well. Their resistance to rust makes them a suitable material for facades. However, if for architectural reasons an open connection is preferred in outdoor applications, the edges must be treated in a specific way. Approximately 2 mm/m should be maintained for panel expansion. In butt joints this distance should be 3-6 mm. Tongue and tongue joints are commonly used for floors and panels that go under roofs. It effectively prevents panels from lifting and damaging roofing materials and can withstand greater loads than conventional butt joints. The panel is secured by secret nailing. The best strength is achieved by using a stepped profile or similar special profile with flanges supporting the edges of the abutting plywood boards. Such profiles are used, for example, in the manufacture of floors of cargo containers or trailers. Gluing
To glue plywood, you can use wood glue of any grade that is suitable for the specific operating conditions of the product.
Thus, PVA is used when carrying out interior work. This glue is colorless and has good adhesive strength. Phenolic and epoxy resins are used for the manufacture of products used outdoors, as they are able to withstand adverse atmospheric conditions. In addition, epoxy compounds are indispensable when gluing metal and plywood. The glue must be applied to a dry and clean veneer surface. It is veneer - if laminated plywood is used for gluing, then the film must be cleaned down to the wood layer, for example, using sanding paper. When gluing, it is necessary to coat both surfaces: for this, use a brush or roller. The plywood sheets to be glued can be secured using clamps, screws or nails. Sanding
To sand plywood, use sandpaper designed for woodworking.
Sand across the grain: sometimes you can also use sanding in a circular motion. If an exceptionally smooth finish is required, for example for high-quality varnishing, sand with fine-grain paper along the direction of the wood grain. It is important to remember that fk and fsf plywood grades III and higher are usually already sanded. Surface finishing
Once sanded, the surface of the plywood provides an excellent base for finishing.
There are the following types of plywood finishing: lamination, lamination, painting, impregnation with special paint or solution, etc. The surface can also be covered with laminate or veneer made from valuable wood. It is possible to use thin film. Plywood can be covered with wallpaper. If plywood boards were stored at high humidity, then before finishing it is necessary to dry them to normal moisture content. The surface should be thoroughly cleaned of dust resulting from previous processing. Cleaning must be repeated before each finishing step. Depending on the required quality, you need to apply 1-2 layers of coating. Processing the ends
To align the ends of the plywood board after sawing, they can be planed with a plane.
The best result is achieved if you plan from the edges to the middle, thereby avoiding splitting at the corners. The edges of the panel can also be sanded. The ends must be painted 2-3 times with acrylic paint with special additives. Primer
Wood is a natural material that expands and contracts depending on the temperature and humidity of the environment.
Cracks are observed on the outside of the face veneer, which expand and contract under the influence of changes in temperature and humidity. Therefore, if you plan to paint the surface of the plywood, you must first prime it. Staining
Staining gives plywood a natural textured pattern.
The surface of the board can also be painted completely, without showing the wood texture. The paint is applied with a brush or spray. Painted plywood is used for both internal and external work. But before painting, it is recommended to treat plywood with a special solution to protect it from blue stains and fungi, since the biological resistance of transparent paints is limited due to the minimum content of the binding substance. Varnishing
Plywood with a varnished surface has the best decorative qualities and is easy to keep clean. For varnishing it is necessary to use plywood sanded with fine-grained sandpaper. Before varnishing, it is necessary to carefully remove dust formed during sanding.

How to polish plywood to a shine. Wood polishing: means and technology

Polished furniture has a very “ceremonial” appearance. It is quite specific, but many people like it. The difficulty is that it is easy to spoil a shiny surface, but it is difficult to restore its attractiveness. Often the only solution is to polish the furniture.

The most common problem is scratches. You can also get rid of small ones using polishes with special properties. Deep ones, with damage right down to the wood or veneer, can only be removed by new polishing (if it is old Soviet-era furniture coated with nitro varnish). To do this, first completely remove all the old coating, then apply varnish and sand the entire part. That is, polishing furniture - new or old - occurs according to the same algorithm, with the only difference being that the old layer of varnish has to be removed.

If the product is newer, it is most likely covered with a thick layer of varnish. If the scratch is deep, but does not reach the veneer or wood, the situation is somewhat simpler. First, the scratched layer is cleaned off with 80 and 120 grit sandpaper. Then it is sanded with increasingly finer grains. Next, one or two layers of varnish are applied and, after drying, polished.

Another case when furniture polishing may be required is when the varnish becomes cloudy or yellowing. This happens often. The treatment is also not easy - completely removing the old varnish and applying a new one with polishing. Problems with all other traces that cannot be removed by conventional means () are solved in a similar way.

One more point: furniture polishing is done only and exclusively in a horizontal position. To do this, you often have to take everything apart. It's difficult, but there is no other way out. You can only work on a horizontal surface.

Main part of the work

You need to wait for the screed to dry and only then begin sanding work. The usual wait takes several weeks. Do not start sanding until it is completely dry. This can lead to consequences: a violation of strength and integrity, as well as the impossibility of further work.

If you plan to paint the concrete at the final stage, or the top layer will be poured, you need to use a primer

It is very important to choose a primer that has the same base as the paint or fill. After the concrete surface is treated with impregnation, a slight unevenness, a slight roughness will appear

For garage floors, roughness is even useful: it provides better wheel grip on concrete. Polishing begins with treatment with a so-called hardener. It is a mixture that reacts and creates a layer to increase the strength of concrete.

The work is carried out with diamond discs, the grit of which is 40. If you take discs whose grit exceeds 400, you will get a layer that is more durable. It will withstand heavy loads without damage. After processing with a diamond disc, the concrete surface can be polished with discs up to 3000 grit to achieve perfect smoothness and polishing effect.

The next stage is attaching the skirting boards. Decorative surface treatment depends on need and desire. For glossiness, polyurethane-based varnishes are used in several layers; if desired, the surface can also be coated with paint and then finished with varnish.

Pre-grinding

Polishing furniture is a long process and it begins with sanding. First, all cracks and other defects are covered with wood putty of a suitable color. After it has completely dried (the period is indicated on the label), sanding begins.

A sander is best for polishing wood or veneer. Tape or disk is a matter of taste and preference; it also depends on the complexity of the furniture shape. You will also need a set of sandpaper from coarse (80) to very fine (1200) grit.

In extreme cases, an angle grinder with a special attachment (disc and Velcro) may be suitable. But when working with it, it is difficult to achieve a really good result - there is no required mobility of the sanding platform, so the result of such wood polishing will not be above average.

We start sanding with 80 grit. We use it carefully, removing only large irregularities. Then we repeat the treatment with sandpaper at 120, then at 180 and 240. During the work, we must periodically remove dust and inspect the surface to identify unevenness and other defects. sometimes they are better identified by touch.

Then take water and 320 grit sandpaper. Wet the surface to be sanded and the sandpaper. We sand everything again, but this time with water. At this stage, you should get a good result - everything should be smooth. If everything is satisfactory, we move on; if not, we polish it for some more time.

Types of installation

Plywood is a universal material that can be attached using a variety of fasteners, from glue to screws. It is very important to consider the choice of what to treat plywood with and the conditions of its operation. Before starting installation work, you need to prepare the plywood; do not forget to take into account the possible compression and expansion of the boards due to changes in humidity levels. For example, at the junction of two slabs, it is imperative to leave a gap of 2 mm, sealed with elastic filler. If the structure is heated, then there must be ventilation.

Types of connections

When installing the boards correctly, the various connections will provide you with the maximum result of practicality and reliability; it is very important to consider the choice of what to treat the plywood with. The weakest part of any plywood structure is its ends. We must not forget about processing the joints, especially if the plywood will be placed outdoors.

If you connect plywood correctly you will get a good floor

For wall finishing, it is preferable to use a butt joint or a strip joint, but for structures located outdoors, the most suitable option would be a strip joint, and profiles made of aluminum will protect the edges of your plywood boards, since their complete immunity to corrosion makes them an indispensable material for facade. But, if for some reason it is necessary to use an open connection, then the edges of the slabs must be properly processed. As stated above, about 2 mm should be left for future expansion of the panel, but for butt joints 3-6 millimeters should be left. Tongue and tongue is used for installing sheets on the floor and roof. It will prevent any lifting of the panels, keeping the roofing material intact and undamaged.

Gluing

Unclad panels are often glued together using regular glue. Which glue to choose depends on the desired result of the work. The most popular: PVA, epoxy resin, phenol. PVA glue is perfect for joining slabs that will be used indoors in the future. Mobile exhibition stands are an ideal solution for marketing campaigns. Thanks to the source mstand.ru

Plywood parts are glued well with PVA glue

It is colorless and connects wood very well, especially unveneered wood. Epoxy resin and phenol will cope well with the harsh and unstable conditions of the outside world. Metal elements are connected to plywood with epoxy glue. Before gluing, you need to check both surfaces for cleanliness and moisture.

It is highly recommended not to glue film-coated plywood, as the glue will not hold it for long. If it is absolutely necessary to glue the board by lamination, then the film layer must be removed.

Video on how to properly treat a surface

For floors and walls, self-tapping screws and screws with a hidden head are the most effective. To install external cladding sheets, acid-resistant nails must be used; they are not subject to corrosion. The length of the nail should be three times the thickness of the plywood. Panels on the ceiling or walls are nailed at intervals of 10-20 cm at the edges and 20-30 cm in the middle of the panel itself. Sheets under the floor are installed at intervals equal to 2/1 of the wall/ceiling interval. It is better to drive nails at a distance of 15 mm from the edge.

Primer

It is necessary to prime wooden and veneered surfaces so that the varnish lays more evenly. When sanding, we opened most of the pores and released some of the fibers. If you immediately coat them with varnish, it will be absorbed unevenly, causing the surface to become stained. The primer closes most of the pores, so the varnish will lay more evenly.

Priming veneered furniture can be done in two ways. The first is quick, but accompanied by a strong odor. You need to take nitro varnish or polyurethane varnish, dilute it by 10-20% (depending on the initial thickness), and cover the surface.

The second method of priming is long, but correct and almost odorless. We take epoxy glue and a soft cloth swab. It’s better to use flannel, preferably white, so that it doesn’t fade or change the color of the furniture. Use this swab to rub the epoxy into the veneer.

While everything is drying, dust will definitely stick to the surface. It needs to be removed. This again can be done in two ways: scraping and grinding. If using a scraper, take a sharp blade (you can use a wallpaper knife) and use it to clean off all the excess. To avoid damaging the veneer, move the blade along the grain. With sanding everything is known: sandpaper with 320 grit and water. The prepared surface is cleaned of dust, washed with water, and dried. After drying, you can apply varnish.

In fact, further polishing of the furniture may not be necessary. Already at this stage the product looks decent.

Processing of logs inside the house

To process the ends, use a grinding wheel with 40-grit sandpaper. Usually in these places they limit themselves to rough and medium processing, without grinding the ends to perfect smoothness. Immediately after grinding, the ends are treated with protective impregnations and antiseptics.

All actions are identical. When sanding a frame made of planed logs, if the wall inside will not be lined with anything, add one more pass for finishing: with an eccentric sander with a 120 abrasive disc. This will allow you to achieve a perfectly smooth surface.

The inside of the log house is polished to furniture smoothness.

Applying varnish

Let's talk about which varnishes are best to use. The best are considered alkyd (Tikkurila Unika-super series), polyurethane and water-polymer (good ones are Swedish Bask).

Despite the lack of odor, water-based varnish is not the best choice for your first varnishing experience. Essentially it is a water-based suspension. But it is far from being as harmless as is commonly believed. Water-based varnishes contain very harmful solvents, albeit in small quantities. It’s just that the usual acetone and others cannot keep such a composition in a stable state. So we have to use much “cooler” solvents.

This is by the way, but the reason is essentially different - difficulties during processing. When applying varnish, water is absorbed into the wood fibers and they rise. As a result, after the first treatment, the surface is far from smooth, but very rough. This effect is especially pronounced on pine products. So after the first layer of water-based varnish has dried, take an angle grinder or a sander, attach 320-grit sandpaper to it and sand it until smooth. If you're lucky, the next layer will lie flat and the pile won't rise again; if not, you'll have to repeat the operation again. The situation is not fatal, of course, but unpleasant. This does not happen with other varnishes.

How to apply varnish

Now a little about how to apply varnish. Professionals believe that the best method is spraying from a spray gun. This may be true, but not all home craftsmen have such a device, and you also need to be able to work with a spray gun. Among manual application methods, a popular method is application with a piece of foam rubber (or a new kitchen sponge) or a fabric swab (soft, white, lint-free fabric). To decide, you need to try what is more convenient for you, how it turns out smoother (if it works out at all).

The next method is with a small foam roller. Suitable if you are varnishing a surface of a simple shape without small details (a door leaf, for example).

Applying varnish with a brush is the most unpopular method

The use of brushes when varnishing furniture, oddly enough, is in last place. The fact is that it is difficult to evenly apply a layer of varnish in this way. You need a good brush with soft, thick, natural bristles, which should not tangle under any circumstances.

Technology

Regardless of the chosen method of applying varnish, its layers should be thin and of uniform thickness. Take a little product onto a brush/sponge/roller/tampon and rub it over the surface as thoroughly as possible. Next time we dip it in varnish only after the “weapon” no longer leaves any traces. In this way we cover the entire surface and leave to dry.

The applied layer of varnish does not dry completely, but the time indicated on the packaging of the varnish in the column “tack-free” or “application of the next layer”. On average, for water-based varnishes it is 1 hour, for alkyd varnishes - 5 hours. The next layer is applied using the same technique. The total number of layers is usually from 5 to 9, depending on the quality of the veneer and preliminary sanding. When the surface becomes absolutely smooth, the varnish is dried until completely dry - 2-3 days. After this, sanding begins again.

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The parquet company PARKET CRAFT has been successfully operating in the Moscow region for more than 7 years.

Our main goal is to perform high-quality parquet work with a guarantee at sites in Moscow.

Our areas of work:

• Laying of Parquet coverings, piece parquet, solid boards, French Christmas tree.
• Restoration and restoration of parquet that was already in use.
• Tinting parquet in various colors and shades.
• Finish with glossy varnish or extra-matte oil with hard wax.

We use an integrated approach to work: Full-time craftsmen (without the involvement of third-party companies), Our own tools, Tested material, which we supply to the site for work (or a reliable and trusted manufacturer). Only in this case we provide a full guarantee for our work.

The employees of our company are masters with experience in the past, and gaining experience and knowledge of technology at the present time, through seminars and attending master classes.

The tools and equipment used are exclusively professional, excluding various grinders for grinding and hacksaws for cutting parquet.

We adhere to the standard work schedule: working week during working hours. But very often we use accelerated mode, night work and other time necessary to complete the assigned tasks.

Individuality for each specific object is a priority in our work.

Scheme of work:

1. Telephone consultation (we announce preliminary prices, work deadlines)
2. Inspection of the planned work site by a technologist.
3. Drawing up estimates, deadlines and payment procedures.
4. We start work at the appointed time.
5. Delivery of work.

​ To achieve high quality when performing parquet work, we use an individual method of work rather than a template - a conveyor type.

Formula for a reliable parquet floor:

1. Best material
2. Modern equipment
3. Highly qualified master

​For all questions, call our contact numbers (495)648 – 59 – 63

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Parquet service from Parket Craft!

Performing parquet work is the specialization of our company’s craftsmen. We restore parquet floors after long-term use, 60-100 years. After all the work is completed, the parquet is like new again. We use the latest technology for maximum comfort. We always strive for maximum results: durability, ecology, comfort in operation.

For different cases when repairing or changing color, we use different technologies. Oil-wax combinations are very popular for children's rooms - 100% environmentally friendly materials. When laying parquet, we recommend a specific type of parquet according to customer requirements: solid boards, piece parquet, or parquet modules.

With us, parquet scraping always has the character of thrift. We try to preserve the valuable layer of wood as much as possible so that the parquet can be sanded more than once.

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Furniture polishing

The final stage is finishing with polishing paste. To do this you will need polishing paste. You can use furniture ones, but automobile ones are more often used. Any one that does not contain wax is suitable (for example, “Anticirapin”). Good results are given by those that contain at least a small percentage of Teflon. They also smooth out small scratches and irregularities.

Polishing furniture after applying varnish takes less time than all others. For this stage you will need natural felt - they use it to rub the paste over the surface. In order not to work manually, a felt circle cut to size is attached to the Velcro of a sander or angle grinder. Apply paste to the surface to be polished, turn on the sander at maximum speed and bring the furniture to the desired level of shine. With good preparation, it is possible to obtain a mirror surface.

One of the most difficult types of finishing work on wood products is the process of polishing them. But this is a necessary action, as a result of which the coating becomes transparent and very beautiful. After polishing, you can enjoy the pronounced texture of the wood, as well as its shades.

Polishing helps the wood maintain its natural appearance, and the surface gives a mirror-like shine. About twenty years ago, this method was very actively used when polishing wooden car interiors and various luxurious pieces of furniture made of wood. In this way, the beauty of the wood was emphasized without the use of varnish.

Wood is polished at home, only with the help of a special composition called polish. This solution has its own advantage over conventional alcohol-containing varnishes, and it lies in the fact that the polish contains approximately three times less resin. This allows you to make the decorative coating very thin and mirror-transparent.

Tips for the master

The compressive and tensile strength of cement stone is lower than that of hard rock aggregates. This affects the durability of the coating. To increase strength, and therefore the duration of the repair-free period, you need:

1. Increase the content of solid aggregate in the mixture (up to 1250 kg/m2).
2. Use aggregate with a fraction size of up to 10 mm.
3. Portland cement grade no less than 500.
4. Use plasticizers (thinners) to increase the fluidity of the mixture by reducing water in the composition. Another effect of their use is that they increase strength.
5. Mixing is carried out in a concrete mixer.

When can concrete be sanded after pouring? Not before it reaches 50% strength.

Polishing a monolith with a strength of less than 20 MPa is not effective.

Polishing and its compositions

Nowadays, there is a huge variety of polishing compounds on the shelves in construction supermarkets. But it won’t be difficult to make such a composition yourself. The most commonly used polish is shellac polish, which can be easily prepared at home.

To prepare it you will need crushed shellac resin, approximately 60 grams. The next ingredient in the future mixture will be alcohol. However, there is no particular difference between ethyl and wine alcohol. The main thing is not to forget that the alcohol strength should be at least 90, but not more than 95 degrees, in a volume of 500 milliliters.

The solution is prepared in a glass or ceramic container with a lid, into which you first need to pour the resin, and then carefully pour in the alcohol and close it tightly. It is imperative to stir the composition periodically until the shellac resin is completely dissolved in alcohol. When this happens over time, the resulting mixture must be passed through a filter, while pouring into another clean container.

How to seal the seams between plywood on the floor

The choice of material for sealing gaps between plywood panels depends on the following factors:

• indoor microclimate (humidity level, temperature);
• gap thickness;
• future finishing.

Preparatory activities

Before you start sealing the seams, they need to be properly prepared. It is advisable to start by sanding the joints of the plywood panels. If the laid plywood is a final finish or a thin material (for example, linoleum) is planned to be installed on top, then all surface errors will be clearly visible.

It is best to remove the difference in the points of contact of the elements using a grinding machine. It will also help get rid of other flaws (knots, irregularities). This work can also be done manually, but it will require a lot of time.

The main goal of sanding a plywood floor is to make the plane level the same; the result can be easily checked with a level Source green-ply.ru

It is additionally important to ensure that the outer parts of the parts are securely fastened. It must certainly be durable. It is unacceptable for the joints to “walk”. Otherwise, even very high-quality putty will not be able to stay inside them.

When plywood is laid on concrete, an appropriate adhesive mixture is used (it cannot be skimped). Installation of plywood panels on a wooden surface is carried out using screws. It is advisable to place the latter closer to future seams.

On the eve of sealing, all cracks must be thoroughly cleaned of debris and dust. To do this, it is best to use a household vacuum cleaner. Then the joints need to be degreased and covered with moisture-resistant primer. If there is a high level of humidity in the room, then the primer mixture should be selected with antifungal additives. The putty is applied only after the primer has completely dried.

Installation of plywood panels on a wooden surface is carried out using screws Source chudopol.ru

Stages of polishing work

Sanding wood

The polishing process itself is carried out in three rather complex stages.

Stage No. 1

At the first stage, before polishing, it is necessary to prepare the surface:

1. sand the wood;
2. remove all dust and lint from it;

Stage No. 2

The second stage will be priming the prepared wood. It must be carried out using varnish and a woolen thread swab or, in the absence of one, you can take a cotton one and wrap it in linen cloth. Why should you choose linen fabric? Because only this fabric does not leave small fibers. Cotton fabrics are absolutely unsuitable for this process, as they leave fluff, which is unacceptable during the polishing process. Remaining on the surface of the wood, they will noticeably spoil the appearance of the product.

Waxing wood

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Should profiled timber be sanded before impregnation?

Why sand profiled timber before impregnation and painting - after all, it is already sanded. Dmitry, Minsk.

Hello, Dmitry from Minsk!

Profiled timber goes on sale not polished, but after planing. There are several types of logs, beams, and boards depending on the degree of processing.

To put it more popularly, after a tree has been cut down in the forest and delivered to the place of its processing, the following stages are: sanding (removing the bark), passing it through a sawmill, special machines with surface treatment in one, two, three or four surfaces in turn, or simultaneously, processing with a plane, grinding and polishing.

/I say approximately, because after cutting a tree, someone simply scrapes the bark with an ax and makes a log for further manual processing with an adze to obtain a longitudinal groove-groove and a bowl. And some people immediately put unsanded logs into the sawmill to produce slab boards and beams. Etc. and so on./

And all this is done with greater or lesser precision and degree of processing.

The profiled timber has four processed sides. The degree of processing does not correspond to the concept of grinding. If for the upper and lower surfaces, those that have grooves and ridges, this does not play a special role, since they will still be hidden during assembly, then the side surfaces are often then not covered with anything and represent the internal and external walls of the building.

Maybe over time these surfaces will be sanded before selling the timber to the buyer, but so far I have not seen this in my practice. Therefore, after assembling the log house, these surfaces are left as they are. And in most cases they are coated with various impregnations.

But recently, more and more clients are asking to pre-sand these surfaces. And we take angle grinders (they are also called grinders), put on them “petal” type emery wheels with a grit of 36 units and go over all the side surfaces. That is, along two vertical and four 45-degree bevel edges.

If the side surfaces of the beam have a tolerable smooth surface, then you can take circles of 60, 80 or even more units. And when reprocessing the internal surfaces of walls (those that will be indoors), they use flat sanders or eccentrics with soft sandpaper.

I must say that the use of grinders when sanding wood has been our know-how for about five years. After all, these machines are designed to work on metal. The instructions strictly prohibit working on wood, as wood dust clogs the ventilation holes very quickly. In addition, we commit a gross violation of safety regulations, since we remove the protective covers of the angle grinders, which interfere with proper grinding.

I have repeatedly experienced the hard way how low-power (less than a kilowatt) grinders are an insidious tool.

Among other things, well-polished wood surfaces require less impregnation and paint consumption compared to rougher ones.

You yourself can check in detail how much the timber you purchased will differ from the timber itself, polished with a grinder.

Summary. The profiled timber is pre-polished and then coated with impregnations and various dyes. For orientation - in the Moscow region, double grinding of 1 sq. meter of surface (first in circles 36 units, then 80 - 120 units) costs at least 350 rubles as of spring 2022. Painting (no matter what) for the first layer is 90 rubles, the second time is 60. That is, double painting is 150 rubles. The internal surfaces of the walls are only sanded; any internal coating is considered non-ecological.

Someone may have a different opinion from mine.

Proper wood processing

Stage No. 3

The last step in polishing wood at home is polishing.

If you correctly follow the wood polishing technology described above, the final result of the work done will have an excellent appearance.

If the polishing layers are reduced or the workpiece is not completely dry, the polishing turns out to be of poor quality and cloudy.

If you have no experience in polishing, it is recommended that before starting work with the main product, you practice on something small and not very valuable. This needs to be done in order to practice a little, understand the subtleties and complexities of the entire polishing process and not spoil the main product.

And a little about secrets...

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Video description

Laying plywood on a screed.

Installation on plank floors

Laying plywood over plank flooring is the easiest way. The sheets are fastened with ordinary self-tapping screws. If the wooden base is strong, then it will be enough to use sheets with a thickness of 3 mm.

When the boards are very old and rotten in places, they will definitely need to be replaced with new ones. If there are any mechanical defects on the surface, it is recommended to use thicker plywood products (at least 1 cm).

Plywood is laid on a dry and flat surface of a wooden floor, without the use of adhesives and mastics, unless required by base repairs Source green-ply.ru

Video: How to polish furniture

Wood polishing is one of the most difficult types of finishing, but at the same time it provides a beautiful transparent finish that perfectly highlights the grain and grain of the wood. The polished surface has a mirror shine and retains the natural appearance of wood. Polishing is no longer as common as it was several decades ago, when many luxury items, such as car interiors, were inlaid with polished wood. In general, if you need to highlight the beauty of wood without varnishing, then the best solution is to polish the wood.

Polishing is carried out using a special composition - polish. This liquid, unlike alcohol varnishes, contains three times less resins, and due to this, the decorative coating is thin and transparent.

Not all types of wood are suitable for polishing. It is best to use fine-grained types of wood: birch, boxwood, hornbeam, maple, pear and apple tree, mahogany. But pine and oak, which are multi-layer wood, are not very suitable for this type of finishing.

Processing plywood

Low price, flexibility in operation and good technical performance have made plywood one of the most popular materials. In addition to finishing, plywood panels are used in many areas where they undergo various types of processing. At home, there are various ways to process this material, which we will talk about in this article.

Grinding work

Plywood sheets should be sanded with 80 or 100 coarse sandpaper. Sanding work should be carried out perpendicular to the wood grain. If you require a particularly smooth surface treatment (for example, for high-quality varnishing), then you should use fine-grained paper and sand along the texture.

The photo shows the process of sanding plywood.

Polishing compounds

Nowadays you can find a wide range of wood polishing compounds on sale. You can also cook them yourself. For example, shellac polish, which was very common until recently, can be prepared at home.

You will need crushed shellac resin (60 grams), wine or ethyl alcohol of 90-95 degrees of strength (500 ml). The resin is poured into a glass or ceramic container, alcohol is added and covered tightly with a lid. The composition must be constantly stirred from time to time, and when the shellac resin is completely dissolved, the liquid is filtered and poured into a clean container.

Polishing work is carried out in several stages; surface preparation (sanding wood, removing dust and lint) is mandatory. Then the surface is primed, and then polished and polished.

Preparing for work

While planing, a craftsman can discover a radial structure on the timber. This means that certain sections of the wood may peel off. So first you need to carefully study the structure of the material being processed.

In this case, the wood is treated with a special adhesive solution. You will need to wait a day until the composition dries completely, and then small particles will no longer flake off. Defects will not appear in normal areas of the timber, and grinding wheels will not have to be changed every now and then.

On a note. If such a defect is detected, it is highly advisable to treat the area with an adhesive compound. Moreover, the glue is applied in several layers.

You can process the ends using a blowtorch. All the lint will be burned and removed. In addition, after such treatment, the wood gains increased strength and becomes more durable.

Sanding with a belt sander

Ends. weak link of the structure. Firing will provide the opportunity to subsequently polish them more efficiently. Additional polishing can be done with fine-grained sandpaper.

Here are the results of the preparatory work and proper sanding.

Firstly, the wood will dry out slowly. This means you can count on uniform shrinkage.

Secondly, it takes significantly less paint and varnish to process the timber with dye or coat it with varnish. And this is a completely justified saving.

Primer

• It is carried out using varnish and a cotton swab (or woolen cloth) wrapped in linen cloth. It is important to use this type of fabric because it does not leave tiny fibers, such as cotton fabrics. Flint on polishing is not allowed, as it degrades the appearance of the wooden product.
• Put a little varnish on a swab and begin to wipe the surface of the wooden product in different directions. In this way, the wood is impregnated and its pores and cracks are filled.
• After the varnish has dried, the surface is treated with fine-grained sanding paper, and the dust is removed with a clean cloth.
• The product is then coated with two layers of varnish at a time. If the tampon with varnish sticks to the surface, then you can drop a couple of drops of vegetable oil on it.
• After this, apply the fourth layer of varnish, diluted with the polish composition in a 1:1 ratio. After priming is completed, the product is left to dry in a closed cabinet for a couple of days.

Sawing and drilling

Drills for plywood: a – spiral; b – feathers.

Sawing should be done using a circular or band saw. To be able to get an even cut, you need to cut according to all the rules. First of all, the cut should be made across the direction of the fibers of the front part of the material, then along. This will prevent the corners from coming loose. On the front part of the material, sawing should be done with a band saw or hand saw, on the back part - with a contour or circular saw. If a round tool is used, it is recommended to cut at high speed and with a low feed rate. The teeth should not penetrate too much into the material.

It is possible to obtain holes with smooth edges if you use a well-sharpened drill, which is equipped with a front cutter. You need to start drilling from the front part of the plywood. To prevent splitting on the back, use an additional sheet as a backing.

Polishing

This process is carried out using a polish composition.

• A couple of drops of vegetable oil are again dripped onto a cotton swab wrapped in a cloth so that it moves over the surface to be treated easily, with sliding movements.
• The tampon is brought in from the side and they begin to make smooth movements in a circle. In this case, it is necessary to monitor the amount of polish on the swab - there should not be a lot of it, otherwise drops of the composition will form on the surface, which will dissolve the primer layer and leave stains. After pressing on the tampon, the polish should evaporate immediately, without excess.
• Polishing is carried out in three stages, between which the surface is dried, treated with fine-grained sanding paper and cleaned of dust. After the third layer, a light glossy sheen should appear on the surface.

Purpose

Interior decoration of a room involves performing a whole range of works. Plaster and putty are used to level the surface of the wall. Applying plaster is a rough stage of work, but puttying is a more subtle stage.

Even if the surface of the wall seems perfectly smooth to you, you cannot do without polishing. After a thin layer of putty mixture has been applied, irregularities and bumps that are almost invisible to the naked eye remain on the surface.

They often appear at the junction of treated areas, as well as as a result of contact with the corner of the spatula. The main task of belt grinding is to eliminate them. After applying putty to the wall surface, be sure to allow it to dry completely and harden. This requires at least a day, and only after 24 hours can you proceed directly to leveling by grinding. By the time sanding begins, the entire surface of the wall should be completely dry. Otherwise, there is an increased risk of damage to the putty layer.

The choice of material used for grinding is also important.

In this case, it is worth paying attention to the surface features and its most problematic areas.

Polishing

This stage of work is aimed at obtaining a beautiful mirror shine.

• After the last layer of polishing has dried, the surface is treated with sandpaper with a minimum grit dipped in oil.
• Next, drop a little oil and polish onto the swab and begin to rub the surface until shiny. The amount of oil can be calculated from the ratio of 1-2 drops per 10 square meters. centimeters of surface. It is important that there is not too much oil, otherwise it will dissolve the previous layers of polish.
• To improve the strength of the finishing layers, polishing is carried out several times, and after the second time, the surface must be treated with a soft cloth moistened with a solution of polish and water.

The final result depends on compliance with the polishing technology. If you reduce the number of layers and their drying time, you may end up with poor-quality polishing, which will worsen the appearance of the product. If you have no experience in polishing, then before starting work it is better to practice on some small craft in order to get your hands on and gain some experience in polishing wood.

All photos from the article

The final stage of wood processing is like the finishing touch to a painting. A smooth, shiny or glossy surface begins to “sound” in a very special way. The color becomes deeper, the design appears brighter, emphasizing the perfection of the product. Careful polishing of the material will not only emphasize its beauty, but will ensure its preservation for a long time.

Finishing the base

The sanded, smooth base of the plywood provides a surface that is suitable for further finishing.

Plywood sheets can be laminated, laminated, painted, impregnated with special mixtures, and so on.

Scheme for gluing plywood to the floor.

When choosing a paint or primer solution, you will need to take into account the tendency for cracks to appear on the veneer veneer. The base can be covered with laminate or veneer made from expensive wood. You can also use a thin film. Plywood can also be covered with wallpaper.

If the plywood sheets have been stored in high humidity conditions, they will need to be dried to a suitable moisture content before finishing. The base must be completely cleaned of dust that may appear as a result of previous processing. Similar actions will need to be repeated before all stages of finishing. The number of coating layers is determined based on the quality of the surface that needs to be achieved in the end.

In order to level the edge of the slab after sawing, it will need to be lightly planed. It is recommended to plan from the corners to the middle to avoid splitting at the corners. The extreme parts of the panel can also be sanded. The ends should be painted in 2-3 layers of acrylic-based paint with special additives.

Chic, shine - beauty

What can and should be polished, with what and in what way are exciting questions for those who want or are forced to take up this difficult but fascinating task. Polishing wooden products - brand new walls or restored countertops - performs an aesthetic and protective function ().

Pros and cons of varnish

Take a closer look, you are surrounded by many things made of wood, the treated surface of which shines or glows matte:

• decorative crafts;

• decorative cutting boards, spoons;
• walls/floors;
• furniture;
• laminate (there are also such fans).

But polishing wooden products is not always appropriate and safe, this includes:

• spoons, if they are intended for food and not decoration;
• kitchen knives - a very smooth handle is more difficult to hold, and if dropped, the decorative layer will inevitably crack;
• gun stocks (for the same reason).

Safety precautions when working with an angle grinder

When performing any work using construction equipment, safety precautions should be observed.

1. Before turning on the tool, it must be inspected to detect possible malfunctions in the housing or cord.
2. Check that the rotating elements are properly secured.
3. The work area should be well lit.
4. The master's clothing is designed to protect the skin, arms and legs, so it is better to choose it from dense material with long sleeves and legs, but not loose, so that the edges cannot get into the working tool.
5. Goggles and gloves will be useful, but the choice is left to the employee.
6. The unit must not overheat. If its temperature begins to burn your hands, work should be stopped and allowed to cool to room temperature.
7. Replacement of consumables must be carried out in a timely manner, and with the device turned on from the network.

Knowing what and how to grind concrete, any master can do it with his own hands. Care at all stages of pouring, preparation and actual grinding will allow you to create work that will last for decades. Accuracy and thoughtful implementation of any of the listed stages will allow you to quickly and easily complete the filling and surface treatment. Pleasant bonuses for a smooth, durable and beautiful indoor floor will be the money saved and new experience gained.

In conclusion

Every day, throughout our lives, we subject things to tests - touches, impacts, placing them in the scorching sun or a damp terrace. Often, thanks to a decorative coating, it is possible to preserve/restore furniture, decorative elements or objects of art for a long time.

If you want to get super gloss on your furniture, the video in this article will reveal all the secrets of this process.

Wood products - bedside table, shelf, radio box, etc. look much more beautiful if they are finished. Wood painted with oil paint is just as rough and ugly as wood that is not finished at all.

You can, of course, cover the wooden surface with alcohol varnish (transparent or colored), but it is much better to polish it. Deciduous wood is best suited for polishing, especially hard wood: oak, beech, walnut, maple, birch. Oak is difficult to polish, but it has a beautiful pattern that can be further enhanced by tinting. Birch can be easily painted and polished to resemble walnut or mahogany. Coniferous wood is resinous and less susceptible to finishing, but, as we will see, it can also be successfully polished. The polishing process, commonly used in carpentry, although not difficult, requires a lot of labor, time and patience. At the same time, it can be significantly simplified and the results obtained are no worse. The surface intended for polishing should not have flakes, gaps, fiber breaks, cracks, glue drips, etc. There should be no knots on it. First of all, the surface of the product is carefully sanded, first with coarse sandpaper (No. 46-60), and as it is smoothed, with finer sandpaper (No. 80-100). Final sanding is done with very fine sandpaper (No. 140-170). The surface must be sanded by moving the sandpaper wrapped around a smooth wooden block along the grain. The result of this treatment should be a smooth, uniform matte color surface. It should be slightly moistened with warm water and immediately wiped with a dry cloth, and then dried for 1.5-2 hours at room temperature. This operation is needed to raise the pile - the smallest fibers of wood. The pile is then removed with sandpaper No. 120-140. Sometimes moisturizing, drying and removing lint has to be repeated even twice until the surface acquires an even matte sheen with a slight gloss. This completes the carpentry work and you can begin painting the prepared surface with transparent dyes. “To dye brown, stain paint is dissolved in hot water. The concentration of the solution is taken depending on the desired shade. The paint is applied with a cotton swab, after which the product is dried at room temperature for two to three hours. You can also use another dye: brown acid chrome - 15 g, acetic acid - 10 ml, aluminum alum - 55 g, water - 5 l. A reddish-brown color will be obtained if you take 20 g of walnut stain, 2 g of Ruby dye and 1 liter of water. To finish under mahogany, you need to dissolve 50 g of copper sulfate in 1 liter of water and 100 g of yellow blood salt also in 1 liter of water. Mix the solutions. The dried painted surface is rubbed along the grain with a lump of horsehair or wood shavings, after which it becomes smooth and glossy. Apply polish No. 13 or No. 14 to the painted surface using a conventional spray bottle used for spraying cologne. The polish should be applied evenly, avoiding the formation of drops and drips. At one time, you can apply five to six layers of polish, after which you should dry it for 6-8 hours at room temperature. Then the polish is applied again and dried again. This is repeated until the polish covers the surface in an even layer so that the pores of the wood are not visible. If some areas are not sufficiently covered with polish, they can be sealed with thickened polish. It is obtained by evaporating ordinary polish in a small vessel (for example, a saucer) for 10-18 hours. The product coated with varnish is dried for three to five days, after which its surface is cleaned with fine sandpaper. Polishing is done with cloth rolled onto a wooden block and rubbed with GOI paste (instead of GOI, you can also use razor stropping paste or chromium oxide oil paint), and generously moistened with sunflower oil. To prevent the cloth from gathering into folds, it is pinned on the outside with buttons. The polished surface gradually acquires a mirror shine. Sometimes you need to wipe a small area of ​​the surface with clean cotton wool and check the quality of the polishing. When polishing is finished, the entire surface should be wiped with clean cotton wool, then with a swab moistened with sunflower oil, and then again with clean cotton wool. Although it is usually not recommended to polish resinous wood, it can be done as follows: the surface, cleaned with glass paper and painted with a stain solution, is covered with very liquid wood glue and allowed to dry thoroughly. Then, using a spray gun, five to six layers of shellac varnish are applied and polished as indicated above.

Sanding wood using a sander and by hand, choosing sandpaper grit

Wooden products almost always require leveling and sanding at some stage. During such work, all traces of glue, protruding pile, unevenness, chips and other defects must be removed from the wood. Typically, wood is sanded before applying an adhesive, protective or decorative material (primer, paint, varnish, etc.) to it.

The grinding process has many subtleties and pitfalls , which it doesn’t hurt to know about in advance when doing the work at home.

What and how to grind

The purpose of sanding wood is to remove defects as quickly and efficiently , without leaving noticeable deep scratches. To do this, you can use special tools - now their price is not too high.

There are several types of grinding machines available for sale:

• tape;
• oscillatory;
• grinders (angle grinders);
• surface grinding;
• orbital.

You can install not only abrasive wheels on the grinder, but also brushes. Thus, nylon brushes are actively used for sanding wood. They allow you to make the surface not only smooth, but also highlight the texture of the wood by choosing softer fibers. This process is called brushing.

For large surfaces made of wood and wood-based materials (veneer, chipboard, fiberboard, plywood), belt and surface grinders are best suited.

Many people still prefer to sand decorative items, furniture, toys, and frames by hand, and this is not such a bad method - it allows you to achieve a perfectly smooth surface effectively and without unnecessary expense. At least, when working with your own hands, you won’t have to think about where to get a sander (ask a neighbor, buy it in a store, rent it, leaving a deposit).



Belt type machine

Belt machines are so called because the sandpaper here is made in the format of a belt and it continuously moves thanks to rollers.

This machine is designed for intermediate and rough sanding.

But in order to achieve perfect smoothness and perfect finishing (this is especially true for those who make furniture), you will have to additionally use other sanding equipment.

There are different types of sandpaper you can install on your belt sander. And, for example, when inserting fine-grain sandpaper, it is quite possible to achieve a normal result for carpentry that is to be painted. And, say, to eliminate long scratches you will have to carry out step grinding, changing the grain size several times.

The belt sander has excellent performance. But it should be recognized that the tape is placed on it in such a way that not all points and grooves on the surface of the board can be properly processed.

Even with a considerable width of the belt, it grinds mainly at its center. The parts of the tape behind and in front are not used for this. They are in a slightly raised position, and their main function is to feed the driving roller mechanisms.

Another obvious drawback of belt equipment is its solid mass; it is quite difficult to perform any operations with such machines in weight when processing vertical products.



Belt machines for sanding wood also have a disadvantage, such as high noise - working without earplugs or headphones will not be very comfortable. And one more important point: if you leave the machine in one place for a long time while working, a fairly noticeable hole will appear.

Surface grinder

Even sanding large pieces of wood with a surface sander is quite fast. The key organ of the device is a flat, rather large plate (sole), to which the required abrasive is attached. This design is famous for the almost complete absence of dead zones (that is, areas that cannot be reached with a machine and processed tolerably) - any corners can be sanded relatively easily.

The demand for flat sanders among woodworkers is due to their reasonable price and availability of equipment. When choosing such a machine, you should pay attention to such parameters as motor power (usually we are talking about indicators in the range from 150 to 300 Watts), weight, amplitude and frequency of the sole stroke.



Manually

Sanding wood by hand, of course, requires a lot of labor and physical effort. But this method of grinding is a priori less aggressive and allows you to completely control the process. Even in hard-to-reach places - in corners and on complex curved bends - you can get decent quality grinding by choosing the manual method.

With the so-called interlayer sanding of finishing coatings, manual work has no alternative at all - only it eliminates the risk of damage to the already applied finish. Manual processing (compared to sanding machines) allows you to get the most even and smooth surface, although it takes many times more time.



Pads and jaws

A block is an extremely useful device for manual grinding; its presence and proper use can speed up the process. The block, as a rule, is a regular wooden block wrapped in sandpaper.

Its abrasive side should be on the outside, and the non-abrasive side should be attached to the block with a large stapler or PVA glue.

Some hardware stores sell ready-made pads with sandpaper, that is, you don’t have to make it yourself, but just buy it.

Foamed polyurethane sponges are also used for sanding wood. They are more convenient to use than sandpaper, since you can wash them under water after work. Sponges and abrasive cloths are great for careful hand sanding of wood, allowing you to process the smallest details. They can also be used to sand primed or varnished wood.



Selection of sandpaper

What is the best way to sand wood? Which sandpapers should you choose for your work? In reality, these are not such simple questions. Sandpaper today is made from different materials:

• pomegranate (very rare);
• silicon carbide;
• ceramics;
• electrocorundum and others.

Garnet is characterized by the fact that it wears down faster than all other materials, but carefully sands wood. And silicon carbide, according to experts, is perfect for sanding the varnish coating and removing particles of debris and dust stuck to it.

Ceramic sandpaper is usually used when sanding wood with sanders. Skins with a ceramic working surface are one of the hardest and most expensive abrasives. Much the same can be said about corundum.

But the most important classification of sandpaper is the classification by grain size. At the moment, there are coarse-grained, medium-grained and fine-grained sandpapers.

In the Russian Federation, the marking of sanding products complies with the ISO-6344 standard - the grain size is indicated by the letter “P” and a number. The larger this number (it shows the exact number of sieve wires in one inch), the smaller the grain size. And, accordingly, the smoother the product becomes after sanding with such sandpaper. Typically this marking is indicated on the packaging.

It is advisable to buy several types of papers at once for sanding wood. Coarse-grain paper is considered to be paper that is marked with a number from 40 to 80; it is suitable for rough processing. The markings for medium-grain sandpaper contain numbers from 100 to 150, and the markings for fine-grained sandpaper contain numbers in the range from 180 to 220.

Note! You can find GOST markings with the letter M. It means fine-grained sandpaper.

In addition, sandpapers come in closed or open-grain types. The first ones are very densely covered with grain - that is, their abrasive is more effective and efficient.

And on the basis of open-fill sandpaper there are significantly fewer grains (usually their share is no more than 60% of the entire surface of the canvas), so it is not so effective.

But the presence of empty space between the grains prevents the sandpaper from quickly clogging - this extends its service life.

Thus, closed sandpaper is suitable for hard surfaces, while open sandpaper is suitable for more pliable and soft surfaces .



Dry and wet sanding

To sand wood before and after applying finishing coatings, two current techniques are used - dry and wet.

Dry grinding increases the effectiveness of the abrasive and makes it possible to use it more accurately. At the stages of intermediate sanding of delicate finishing materials, this is what you need. The disadvantage of this technique is that the skin quickly becomes clogged with debris. To eliminate this problem, experts advise using an emery cloth with anti-clogging properties.

Wet sanding involves applying liquid to the grainy surface of the sandpaper. Such a working fluid can be ordinary soap solution, white spirit and mineral oil.

During wet grinding, the abrasive becomes clogged much more slowly and, accordingly, its service life increases. But the wet method also involves the formation of an unpleasant mess of chips and foam. In this case, the home craftsman will have to periodically wipe the wooden product.

Rules for manual grinding

You should start your DIY sanding with the coarsest-grained sandpaper available to remove obvious defects from the surface of the wood. But here we must still take into account the nature of the damage that needs to be eliminated.

Note! If defects on the surface are minimal, then there is no point in starting with P40 abrasive (this abrasive is only suitable for very large bumps and depressions).

You need to act on the surface correctly: it is best to move the block or just sandpaper in a straight line along the fibers in a back and forth direction. And sanding, for example, in a circular motion can lead to unnecessary scratches.



Having reached the edge of the surface to be treated, be sure to grind off the sharp corners. Soon, as a result of exposure to coarse abrasives, dust mounds will begin to appear on the wood. They should be carefully removed with a vacuum cleaner. Then you can proceed to processing with the next medium-grit sandpaper.

This processing is carried out according to the same principles as described above. The final stage is grinding with an abrasive with the finest grain. After this, the wooden product should become completely smooth, there should be no flaws left on it.

Source: https://DrevoGid.com/zashhita/shlifovka

Step-by-step instruction

We present to your attention an algorithm on how to make plywood waterproof at home using a simple product - drying oil:

1. Apply drying oil heated to 50°C with a special brush onto the prepared sheet of plywood. Dry the oil coating from moisture using a regular household iron or hair dryer (at a temperature of at least 150-200 o C). Next, you can alternate the layer of drying oil impregnation and drying as many times as the plywood surface can absorb.
2. Apply varnish to surfaces treated with drying oil, especially carefully treating the ends of the sheets of material.
3. To enhance the waterproof characteristics, you can apply reinforcing fiberglass, having previously moistened its fibers with turpentine (in “home-grown” construction, cotton gauze is also suitable). To check the degree of fit of the fabric, you need to tap it with a cross-cut brush.
4. Apply a second coat of varnish (not earlier than a few days after the previous one). It is necessary to check that the fiberglass material is completely dry.
5. Before applying the final layer of varnish (or suitable paint), it is necessary to treat the surfaces with fine-grained sandpaper and remove any possible nicks and bubbles. You can speed up the sanding process by using the power of a surface grinder.

In order for the moisture-resistant impregnation for plywood to be of higher quality, the plywood treated with drying oil and opened with varnish must be additionally protected with metal or plastic overlays at the end faces of the sheet, which are most vulnerable to moisture.

If the points in our step-by-step instructions were completed carefully and in full, there is no reason to doubt such plywood. If the protective coating of plywood begins to “age” over time, becoming covered with a network of small microcracks, use coarse sandpaper! It is already known how to treat plywood for moisture resistance, so remove the damaged top layer of plywood coating immediately, and then cover it with varnish (or a suitable paint).

Important!

The plywood should not delaminate (even when trying to pry off the edges of the sheet with a spatula or chisel). This will significantly increase the water-repellent characteristics of future moisture-resistant plywood made by yourself! Do not buy plywood with defects such as scratches, cracks or crumbled edges!

Plywood is traditionally one of the most popular finishing building materials. This is a multi-layer wood board, which is obtained by gluing veneer sheets with a perpendicular overlay of a new layer relative to the previous one. The popularity of plywood is due to its wide versatility and relatively affordable price. But it also has a big disadvantage - weak natural protection from environmental influences, including water.

To protect plywood sheets from aggressive moisture and other negative influences, various materials and material processing methods are used, including:

• varnish coating;
• impregnation with drying oil;
• fiberglass protection;
• coloring;
• creation of lamination.

We will talk in more detail about the most effective and efficient methods of protecting plywood from external negative influences.

Features of the structure

The basis of the plywood production process is gluing thin sheets of wood together so that the natural fibers are directed strictly along or across the long side. The number of layers is most often odd, the minimum is 3 sheets.

Bonding is carried out by various means, of which effective water resistance is provided by certain bakelite compositions: varnishes and alcohol-soluble adhesives. The use of water-soluble modifications of Bakelite and all other types of adhesives leads to the fact that the products cannot withstand the action of water vapor. Low water resistance is especially noticeable when using plywood outdoors. In this regard, it is necessary to treat the material with protective compounds.

Advantages of fiberglass and methods of its application

Since fiberglass is quite expensive, you can reduce costs by replacing it with gauze fixed to the plywood with varnish. It is important that such varnish does not contain polyesters and epoxy substances.

Method of applying fiberglass to plywood:

1. At the initial stage, the plywood sheet is sanded, paying special attention to the edges, primed and covered with the first layer of varnish.
2. The treated glued veneer should be left to dry for 3 hours to allow the varnish to be well absorbed.
3. Fiberglass or gauze is stretched over the top of the plywood, and the ends are additionally treated with another layer of varnish.

Examples of crafts or what you can do with your own hands

Here, endless opportunities open up for amateurs who can then become professionals. The technology allows both to give the external shape to the product and to create ornaments on different surfaces, from boxes to openwork stair railings or carved platbands.

Let's look at simple examples of work. The photo below is a purely artistic product that has no practical value.

An arts and crafts product, a hanger for the hallway, kitchen or bath.

How to treat the surface → Room decoration → How to choose the right paint → Surface treatment technologies → Leveling and finishing the walls → Selecting and applying a primer → Removal from the surface → Stretch ceilings and technologies → Reviews and testimonials

Extending the service life of plywood structures

A few more tips for increasing the life of plywood will help you save money on unexpected repairs in the future:

• If the plywood sheet will be installed outside the building, try to place it under a canopy.
• Cover structures made of plywood with other finishing materials, especially if it is located on the street.
• Install sheets on vertical surfaces also vertically.
• The most vulnerable places on plywood are the fastening areas. Therefore, all areas near screws and nails must be treated especially carefully.
• If you find many small cracks on the surface of the plywood covering, this means that it requires urgent action. You should not paint over cracks without pre-treatment. First, use sandpaper to remove all flaking elements, and then restore the protective coating with varnish or paint.