How to make casing and trim for window and door openings

What does drying out lead to?

A typical case: you made a shed at your dacha to store household equipment and for other needs.
They did it for themselves, so they pulled together the boards from which the walls were made, carefully, without the slightest crack. Two or three months pass; the boards dry out and the entire wall glows with cracks. In winter, snow blows through them; in summer, the wind blows dust inside the barn. To prevent this from happening, you need to use quarter boards for wall cladding. A wall covered with such boards will never have through gaps. With their quarters, neighboring boards overlap each other and when they dry out, through cracks no longer appear.

Unfortunately, lumber is very rarely sold with a quarter finished. Therefore, an amateur craftsman should know the ways in which boards can be modified if necessary.

MILLING THE GROOVE/TENK JOINT

For large and wide parts of housings or long and narrow parts, milling grooves is relatively simple and safe. Select a cutter of the correct diameter, attach a ruler to the base of the router and make passes with it, moving the ruler along the end of the part

(Fig. 8). Many routers are sold with a ruler, but to improve the quality of work, it must be pressed to the base with a clamp or screws.

The most accurate way to mill a tenon is to clearly set its thickness between the ruler and the cutter (Fig. 9). To support the base of the router, use a clamp to press a piece of thick board flush with the end of the workpiece.

DIY milling machine from a drill

Considering the fact that a serial milling machine is an expensive piece of equipment, the question of how to make a small milling machine from a drill is very relevant. Such a machine, used in conjunction with wood cutters mounted on a drill, is indispensable in the construction and repair of a country house, as well as in performing many other works.

Homemade machine from a drill

When starting to make a homemade router, you must first make a table for it, which should be stable and reliable. For this, plywood is often used, the thickness of which should not be less than 12 mm. Supporting elements can be made from four wooden blocks

An important part of such a homemade device is the limiter pad, the task of which is to ensure the correct position of the cutter in relation to the surface being processed. You can make such a platform from a sheet of chipboard or thick plywood by cutting out a piece of the required size and rounding its corners

A hole is drilled in the center of the limiting pad, which is necessary for the wood cutter to exit.

Arrangement of mechanisms for vertical movement and fastening of the drill

The drill itself is fixed with clamps on a stand made of chipboard. The length of such a stand should approximately correspond to the length of the drill itself, and its width should be sufficient to place power tools and fasteners on it. The stand and the limiting platform are connected to each other at a strictly 90° angle. When fixing the drill on the stand using clamps, you should place it so that the cutter inserted into its chuck extends beyond the surface of the base pad by the required amount. To increase the strength of the resulting structure, you can further strengthen it with a piece of chipboard connected with self-tapping screws to a stand and a limiting platform.

Homemade coordinate table for a machine

Using a conventional drill, you can make an even more functional and easy-to-use milling machine if you install the power tool on a homemade stand equipped with a stand with a simple microlift. Such a machine can also be made from wood, except for the lead screw, along which the microlift with the tool attached to it will move.

SAWING A GROOVE/TENK CONNECTION ON A CIRCULAR

Since this is a very simple connection, it is easier and faster to combine marking and installation. Check the settings on the scrap boards (Fig. 6 and 7).

It's easier to fit the tenon to the mortise, so make the mortise first. Set the depth of the cut by measuring or by eye, pressing the disc against the part in which the groove will be. Then set a ruler to cut out the inner shoulder of the groove (Fig. 6, step 2), make a cut in all parts with grooves, rearrange the ruler and cut out the second shoulders.

Narrow parts, such as the sides of bookcases, can be sawed using a dividing head, keeping the end of the work piece in contact with a straightedge as you work. You can also attach a limiter to a ruler in front of the disk so that the end of the part rests against it.

The most accurate way to select a groove on a circular saw is to place the workpiece on the table and, pressing it against the ruler, cut out the shoulder. Then place the part on the end and cut out the thickness of the tenon. This method allows you to accurately control the thickness of the tenon, but it is inconvenient for long parts or those that are sawed across.

No matter how carefully the tenons are made, there is usually some variation in their size, especially when sawing into solid wood. Here we can advise you to cut the tenons a little thicker, and then, when fitting, trim them with a plane for the shoulders. The blade of a shoulder plane runs across its entire narrow sole, so you can cut right into the corner of a tenon shoulder.

BASIC CONNECTION IN GROOVE

Cutting grooves on a tabletop circular saw with a set of groove discs is much faster than manually. But long or wide pieces are difficult to maneuver around the table. A pendulum saw solves this problem, but it has a drawback - usually its console is not enough to cut across wide parts.

A router helps solve this problem. But this also has its drawbacks.

First, if you are selecting more than one pair of grooves, setting the ruler for each side can be time consuming. Therefore, use an insert with a width equal to the distance from the rib of the router base to the cutter. To install the ruler, slide the insert along the marked shoulder line on the work piece (Figure 4).

Rice. 4

. Insert for router.

Second, the thickness of the workpiece is almost never matched to the cutter to ensure a tight-fitting joint. Solid wood parts can be planed or sanded, but plywood parts are difficult to trim. Cutting a groove to fit is more clear. But this requires two passes with a router - one for each shoulder.

Faced closely with the selection of grooves, you can make a simple device (photo A).

Do-it-yourself half-tree corner joints

Half-timber corner notch (overlapping) is the most common type of frame connection. Its logic is extremely simple: at the ends of both parts, recesses (folds) are cut out along the width of the counter part. The fold forms an edge and a shoulder - they must be perfectly smooth and strictly perpendicular to each other. In a high-quality connection, the surfaces of both parts fit tightly and form a joint without the slightest gap.

Connection marking

Create markings for the fold selection. To do this, use a carpenter's square, a surface planer and a marking knife.

Measure the length of the edge along the width of the mating part. Draw marking lines on the edges. Set the thicknesser to half the thickness of the part and make side markings.

Rebate cutting

Using a back saw, saw off the waste part on each part, carefully following the markings without strong pressure or jerking.

Stripping the connection

Using a wide chisel, clean the edge and shoulder, achieving the tightest possible fit of the parts.

Selection options

When choosing one or another method of milling wood, first of all you should pay attention to the possibility of installing a milling attachment on a drill. To do this, the power tool must have a cylindrical neck, in the extension of which a chuck is installed

In the absence of one, it is not recommended to use a specific drill model for milling. If it is installed on a specialized drill device intended for milling, then you can select cutters. First of all, you should pay attention to the type of work. The milling tool is not universal, so each operation will require its own model of equipment. The diameter of the shank must allow clamping in a specific drill chuck. It is not recommended to use large cutters, as they can require significant spindle power.

It is also necessary to take into account processing modes. Many wood tools require high RPMs that are unattainable with drills. It should be remembered that any electric drill is not designed for long-term loads. Therefore, it is not recommended to apply great effort to it and perform work continuously for a long time.

The sawing machine works neatly and quickly

When it comes to choosing grooves, rebates or tongues, all workshop workers first of all think about the sawing machine. As a rule, it takes less time to install the groove disk and set up than it does to prepare the router. In addition, I like the fact that the saw machine quickly copes with such work and it is convenient to work with boards and panels of different widths and lengths.

Grooving discs come in two types: dialed and adjustable (so-called “drunk”). We prefer compositors that make square, clean cuts. Of course, the most expensive type-setting disks cut cleaner, and the bottom of the cutting turns out to be flat, and the side surfaces are parallel and without chips. However, most set-up discs leave small triangular grooves in the bottom corners, caused by the beveled edges of the teeth on the outer discs. Adjustable (“drunk”) discs are attractive due to their low price and speed of adjustment, but they have a serious drawback - the bottom of the disc turns out to be concave, and the corners are not straight, and after working with them you have to resort to cleaning.

You can also do all three types of cuts with a 40- or 50-tooth combination saw blade. When choosing a groove or tongue, make the outermost cuts first, and then remove the material between them in several passes. Small irregularities at the bottom of the sample can be smoothed out with a sharp chisel or milling cutter.

In the same way, it is possible to cut folds, but we prefer to make them using two cuts. First, a cut is made to form the shoulder of the rebate. Then a high overlay (150-200 mm depending on the width of the workpiece) is fixed to the longitudinal (parallel) stop, the overhang of the disk is adjusted and a second cut is made at a right angle to the first. To avoid kickback when the blade jams and ejection of cuttings, make sure that the cuttings are not caught between the blade and the fence.

Wide groove in the board. What to do?

Introductory: you need to make about two hundred cross-shaped connections of a board 40x120 mm (thickness x width), i.e. about four hundred grooves 20 mm deep and 120 mm wide. For such a volume, it makes sense to take the most suitable tool (for reasonable money, of course). Options with a circular saw and a router don’t work - it’s long and tedious (but it needs to be quick and easy). Chain saws are also sloppy and splash oil. You will be tortured with a jigsaw (and even the file will be taken away at such a depth). We stopped at the saber for now. But none of us have experience working with her, nor does she herself. Is it suitable for this purpose? What should you pay attention to when choosing a saber for this purpose? Or is there something more suitable? Thank you.

fast and easy often means crooked and inaccurate) the saber will cut a little less than a jigsaw. Look for a band saw, machine.

Cheap trimming will help you.

bkvel wrote: you need to make about two hundred cross-shaped joints of a board 40x120 mm (thickness x width), i.e. about four hundred grooves 20 mm deep and 120 mm wide.

What are you planning to do in the end? For a “blind” insertion, use a slotting machine, or a circular saw and a chisel (or milling cutter).

Vadim63 wrote: Cheap trimming will help you.

optimal. It is better if there is an adjustment of the immersion depth.

What is wrong with the router? it will be fine. I made 50*50*2000mm grooves at the end of the logs and here it is 20mm deep. I laid out several docks and along the guide. or look for a disk router for rent

bkvel wrote: long and tedious (but it needs to be quick and easy)

Is cutting accuracy important?

bkvel wrote: We stopped at the saber for now. But none of us have experience working with her, nor does she herself.

It is problematic to make precise cuts with a saber.

you can try a chain disk for an angle grinder like this

and an angle grinder in a casing with depth adjustment.

alzp wrote: you can try a chain drive on an angle grinder

I wouldn't risk it.

alzp wrote: you can try a chain disk for an angle grinder like this

and an angle grinder in a casing with depth adjustment.

We will be waiting for new funny stories in the topic “Death by Grinder”

Ledogor Bullshit. If you use it with a casing, the offset is 20mm, it can only be cut, as a last resort.

Ledogor wrote: We will wait for new funny stories in the topic “Death from an angle grinder”

is there at least one? They have been on sale for about 5 years now, which prevents them from being used in a closed casing.

alzp wrote: what prevents it from being used in a closed casing.

The same as the disk from a circular saw. The instinct of self-preservation.

Vadim63 circular saw disc is not intended for use in angle grinders. This disc is designed and also certified.

Vyacheslav I. wrote: What are you planning to do in the end? For a “blind” insertion, use a slotting machine, or a circular saw and a chisel (or milling cutter).

I agree. I would add another plane, not ice across the grain, but it will do. A dozen boards nearby, 5-6 cuts with a circular saw, a chisel, a plane, a chisel, perhaps a belt sander with 40 grit, and so on 40 times, and if you need super precision, then at home, probably a router.

Thanks to everyone who responded. I realized that there is no clear tool for such work.

Vadim63 wrote: Cheap trimming will help you.

How should she choose a groove? Just move the disc from side to side?

The price is not much. does not respond to introductions. This is a one-time job and will not pay off. Selling will be a problem.

ADM05 wrote: It is problematic to make precise cuts with a saber.

alzp wrote: you can try a chain disk for an angle grinder like this

I have some kind of internal prejudice about this.

alzp wrote: this disk is designed and also certified.

Why then don’t normal manufacturers have such disks?

Vyacheslav I. wrote: For a “blind” insertion - a slotting machine, or a circular saw and a chisel (or a router).

The insert is not solid, I don’t really want to select 400 grooves 120x120x20 with a chisel.

alzp wrote: what is wrong with the router? it will be ok

Also options. Those. so far there are three candidates: a saber, a router or a band saw (maybe also a crosscut). We need to decide one of these days what to choose. Of all this, there is only a milling cutter.

plus tapes that can be sawed in batches (3-4 boards at a time) without loss of accuracy. And it will be cheaper to find a sawmill with such a saw.

Senor_Renard I misunderstood you. I thought that we were talking about a band saw machine, and not about a sawmill belt. How can you choose such a groove on it, especially with 3-4 boards at a time?

I would make some kind of homemade product based on the principle on some kind of carriage. Something like a circular saw with a broach, only instead of a disk there is a mounted milling head.

HOMEMADE DEVICE FOR SELECTING GROOTS

Although the device looks complicated, it is quite easy to make (Fig. 10). Cut the workpieces to size, and then carefully plane the planes and edges. Then select a groove in the fixed bar for the fixed ruler using a few cuts on a circular saw. Then, to ensure a tight fit and square edges, use a sharp chisel to trim its shoulders. The half-wood connection on the adjustable ruler is made so that its upper surface is in the same plane as the fixed ruler.

Mill out all the cracks in the planks and rulers using a ruler pressed to the base of the router (Fig. 8). First, releasing the cutter approximately 3 mm in each pass, mill narrow through slots in several passes. Next, mill out pockets for the screw heads and T-nuts.

Small clamps are used as clamps. The pressure pad is a T-shaped nut at the end of the screw. The locknut prevents the pad from coming loose when it presses against the workpiece. Select the grooves in the adjustable bar so that the clamps can hide behind its edge. Rice. 10

. Device for making grooves.

Hello! In principle, you can put a cutter in a drill if we are talking about a hand router cutter. But the effect will not be very good. I tried to install and process it manually, but the quality of course left much to be desired. And the chuck constantly relaxed and the cutter flew out. I made a special table and installed a new cartridge. The quality has certainly improved, but the processing speed is low and the processing depth is difficult to regulate. In general, you can install it, but there will be some inconvenience and the drill has a small rotation, not for milling, and the motor may burn out!

If the only question is what is possible or not!, then you can certainly adapt the cutter to a drill and you can mill with it, but what the result will be is a completely different question.

At first, the rotation of the drill is not enough; for a clean cut of the cutter, the cut will be torn and unsightly - you will have to additionally process everything with sandpaper, and perhaps there will not be a smooth surface at all, since due to the lack of rotation, wood fibers will be torn out!

Secondly, in order to work with a drill with a mounted cutter, you will need to construct a holder device, because a working cutter will constantly be pulled out of the processing area and it will be very problematic to hold it with your hands!

Thirdly, if it is a large shaped cutter with a significant diameter, then working with such a cutter is not possible at all, and even more dangerous!

In general, the conclusion is this: if there is some rough work, such as cutting or grooves, for example, for a lock or internal parts, then it is quite possible to cope with this work with a drill and a cutter!

Tool for making grooves in wood - All about timber and woodworking

Milling provides virtually unlimited possibilities for processing workpieces. Forming edges, grooves and grooves of various depths and shapes - each operation has its own types of wood cutters for a hand router, allowing you to perform the job as efficiently as possible. What types of cutters are there in terms of size, shape, design and types of blades - all the necessary information in one review.

Before choosing a cutter, you must first decide on the method of its attachment, or more precisely, in what units the diameter of the shank is measured - inches or millimeters. It depends on what collets are included with the router - bushings in which the shank is clamped:

• If they are measured in millimeters, then the most common are 6, 8 and 12 mm.
• When the size is indicated in inches, you usually have to choose from only two of them - a quarter and a half inch.

It is important! When converting inches to SI units, the results are 6.35 and 12.7 mm, but despite such a slight difference, a millimeter shank is not compatible with an inch collet and vice versa. The shaft of the milling machine rotates at speeds of up to 25,000 rpm, so the slightest discrepancies will, at best, lead to damage to the tool.

Types of cutter design

Depending on the cost and purpose, they are produced in the following design modifications:

Prefabricated

It is based on a steel blank of the required shape, to which the cutting edges are welded. Due to the ease of manufacture, there are the majority of such models on the market.

With replaceable cutting edges

They have a long service life, since the knives for them are made double-sided - when the blade becomes dull, it is turned over.

Monolithic

The cutting edges are machined directly into the base - when working with such tools, even the hypothetical possibility that the knife will break off disappears, but after several sharpenings the cutter will have to be changed.

Types of cutter blades

Milling cutters come with vertical, inclined or spiral blades. If they are straight, then the pieces of wood will be cut from the workpiece, and the inclined ones will be cut off, which reduces the likelihood of chipping and increases the overall quality of the milling.

Depending on the material and characteristics of the blades, they are available in two types:

• HM – high-speed. Used for processing soft wood or aluminum.
• HSS – carbide. Designed for hard materials, therefore such cutting edges have a better temperature coefficient and other characteristics, which is also reflected in their price.

In addition to blades, depending on where and what shape you need to make a recess in the workpiece, the appropriate types of cutters for a manual wood router are used.

Grooving cutters

Designed for making a groove of the required width and depth in the middle of the part or from its edge and towards the center. Most often used when creating a tongue-and-groove connection. If necessary, if the design of the milling machine stop allows, the width of the groove can be adjusted without replacing the cutter with a larger diameter one.

Grooved straight

The simplest cylindrical tool, after use of which a rectangular groove in cross-section remains in the workpiece. Mainly used with plunge milling machines, although they can also be used with other models.

Grooved fillets

Their cutting head has a rounded shape, due to which the groove in cross-section resembles the letter “U” - depending on the depth of the cut, the walls are rounded immediately from the surface of the workpiece or initially go from it at a right angle for some time.

Groove fillet V-shaped

Although, by definition, a “fillet” is precisely a semicircular recess, a milling cutter that gives a “V”-shaped groove in the section also belongs to the fillet category. If the work involves making grooves with different angles of inclination of the walls, then you need to have the appropriate set of tools.

Groove structural (T-shaped and dovetail)

In cross-section, the resulting grooves form an inverted letter “T”, the base of which extends to the surface or a regular trapezoid, the larger side of which faces the center of the workpiece. This is one of the most reliable connections; the workpieces slide into one another and cannot be separated in any other way.

Grooved shaped

Along with fillets, it is used to produce figured carvings and edge processing. In cross-section, the grooves resemble curly braces. You can mill as grooves in the center of the workpiece or remove edges from its edges.

If a complex pattern is being made, it is recommended to first go along its contour with a straight groove cutter - this will simplify subsequent alignment and reduce the load on the milling machine when using a shaped cutter.

Edge cutters

Most often they are made with a bearing, which allows processing the edges and ends of workpieces not only by adjusting the support table, but also according to a template.

Edge straight

To obtain a workpiece end plane perpendicular to the face (top of the workpiece). If there is a bearing on the cutter, rounded edges can be processed. The bearing itself can be configured flush to the cutting blades or have a larger/smaller diameter, which expands the possibilities of using the equipment.

Edge molding

To obtain a straight, arched or wavy figured edge - depending on the part of the cutter used, you can soften the edge of the workpiece, round it (double cutters allow you to do this in one pass), make an edge with a rebate and a jaw, or get a semi-rod protrusion. Widely used for making ornaments of complex shapes. When choosing a double cutter, you need to pay attention to the possibility of adjusting the distance between the cutting blades.

Adjustable edging cutter.

Edge seam

Used when it is necessary to select a rectangular or quarter groove on a flat or curved workpiece. Using a double pass, a tenon of the desired size is obtained. The cutting depth is controlled by the position of the milling machine or by a thrust bearing.

Edge cone

Depending on the angle of inclination of the edge of the cutter, they are used to prepare workpieces before joining, obtaining a decorative chamfer, or for processing furniture parts, which will then be joined into products of a round (polygonal) shape.

Edge fillets

They are used to produce a rounded groove on the edge of a straight or shaped workpiece. To eliminate the possibility of the cutter being skewed, it is manufactured with two bearings. The result of the work is the same as when using groove fillet cutters, but in some cases it is much more convenient to use edge cutters.

Edge curly

Another name is multidisciplinary. Since they are quite massive and simultaneously work with a large area of ​​the workpiece, the use of such cutters is recommended on milling machines with a power of at least 1600 watts. For work, the entire profile of the cutter is used at once or in various combinations, which allows you to obtain an edge of a standard shape or a shape specified by the master.

Edge half-rod

The direct purpose of the cutter is to process the edges of workpieces to obtain a semicircular protrusion.

There are also many additional ways to use it - for example, if you process a rectangular workpiece on both sides with such a cutter, it will become a rod.

In addition, it can be used to produce profiles with a chamfer and an edge of complex shape, as well as hinged joints (when processing a workpiece in conjunction with a fillet or molding cutter).

Combined cutters

They are used for joining and splicing wooden blanks - combining them along the edge (for corner joints) or the end part (to obtain a wide board from several small ones).

Combination cutters combine groove and tenon cutters and are designed to create both of these elements in one pass.

Using milling for this purpose increases the bonding area of ​​the boards and polishes the surfaces for maximum adhesion to each other.

Combined universal

Allows you to obtain compatible planes with a tongue and groove located at an angle to each other. The same cutter is used for both jointed workpieces - since it does not have to be changed, this significantly reduces processing time.

Tongue-and-mortise

A set of two separate cutters is used - to create a groove in one workpiece and a tenon in the other. Additional measurements and adjustments are not required, since the dimensions of the cutting edges are already calculated during the manufacture of the tool.

For the manufacture of lining

They are used on the same principle as tongue-and-groove joints, but make it possible to obtain a shaped connection with a larger contact area between the workpieces, which improves the characteristics of the lining produced in this way.

What does drying out lead to?

A typical case: you made a shed at your dacha to store household equipment and for other needs. They did it for themselves, so they pulled together the boards from which the walls were made, carefully, without the slightest crack. Two or three months pass; the boards dry out and the entire wall glows with cracks. In winter, snow blows through them; in summer, the wind blows dust inside the barn.

To prevent this from happening, you need to use quarter boards for wall cladding. A wall covered with such boards will never have through gaps. With their quarters, neighboring boards overlap each other and when they dry out, through cracks no longer appear.

Unfortunately, lumber is very rarely sold with a quarter finished. Therefore, an amateur craftsman should know the ways in which boards can be modified if necessary.

Lumber processing options

Let's figure out how to choose a quarter on the board with your own hands. We buy grade 2 board and process it in a convenient way. How can you do something like this:

• electric planer;
• circular;
• manual milling cutter;
• Bulgarian

First, you need to make a cut from the end of the board, with a depth of half the height, and then in the center of the end. Then we set the width of the working part of the board and saw another fragment. Here the depth should be 1.5 times greater than half the height to make it more convenient to remove the sawn-off part. In this way, you can create a finished product with your own hands that is twice as expensive as the original one.

Despite the production from second-grade raw materials, the quarter has excellent characteristics:

• strength;
• thermal insulation properties;
• visual appeal;
• possibility of decorative use;

It is possible to use this material for external cladding.

A circular saw

The work scheme is not fundamentally different from the previous ones, the only difference is that wood processing is carried out with a circular saw.

Electric planer

They are convenient for cutting boards and giving them shape. The process of obtaining a quarter board is no different from working with other equipment, but a plane is better because of its convenient operation. This device provides an open view of the working surface of the board.

In the absence of a circular saw and a plane, a grinder with a wood disc or a hand router on which a cylindrical cutter has been previously installed will be suitable for work. But both options are characterized by low productivity, that is, they are unlikely to be suitable for processing large volumes of material due to their low speed.

Board with a groove: varieties, making a groove with a circular saw, drill and hacksaw

All photos from the article

The type of connection based on the insertion of a tenon into a groove appeared in Europe almost simultaneously with floorboards and lining. The finishing material is simple and easy to install and has a lot of advantages. True, the cost is more expensive than ordinary boards and strips, but the joints are much neater, and the service life is much longer.

The groove connection increases the strength of the coating.

Conclusion

For small volumes of finishing work, and especially for household DIY projects, it is not necessary to buy ready-made, expensive material. All you need to do is take some free time and make the preparations yourself. Moreover, for a thrifty owner this will not be difficult.

What types of beam corner ties are there?

To efficiently connect a wooden frame at the corners, you can use a tie with or without residual ends.

In the first case, the connected beams will have leading ends; this option is good because it provides better piping and protection of the corners from precipitation.

But with this connection method there is an increased consumption of material. In the second case, laying the timber is much more economical, and the corners are smooth.

Examples of the above connections are shown in the photo below.

If we consider this connection option as with the remainder, we can distinguish the following types of grooves:

• Connection using the “slam” method;
• A similar method is “to the point”;
• The simplest type is a bowl or “oblo”, also known as “in the paw”.

Although the “oblo” is simple, there are three types of its grooves:

• cut on one side;
• double-sided cut;
• cut on four sides.

Examples of such connections are shown in the photo. Let's look at each of them separately.

One-sided cut

For single-sided masonry, a simple connection technology is used, which is used by many construction companies.

To implement it, a perpendicular in the form of a bowl is sawed into the timber.

The size of this cut is selected in such a way that each previous log fits without gaps and matches in size.

Double-sided cut

This connection option is a little more complicated than the previous one, because the groove is cut from both sides.

It looks like the first one, only two perpendiculars are cut out at the top and bottom at ¼ of the thickness of the frame on each side.

If you do the sampling yourself, you can use a chainsaw as a tool or purchase a special milling cutter.

Four-sided cut

This connection method is the most complex, but at the same time very high quality and durable, because the correctly chosen groove allows you to fit the logs together like a children's construction set.

The bowl in this method is cut through on all four sides and, as in the second option, each cut is made to ¼ of the thickness of the timber.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cUQR2T_UEfw

To make sampling easier, the ideal solution would be a timber groove router; with its help, the cuts will be smooth and neat, especially when compared with a chainsaw or jigsaw.

We connect the beams using the “oblo” method at the corners

When making a corner connection of a log house using the bowl method, there are three possible methods:

• sampling with an oval comb;
• groove in the tail;
• half a log sample.

Of the above methods, the last one is the most used and simple.

Technologically, making a groove is similar to a “groove”, but in addition, a laying groove is selected along the length of the beam.

During the installation of logs, the laying cutout is filled with insulating material, and this procedure is repeated during the installation of each subsequent log house.

Important! For reliable and high-quality fastening, in addition to the groove, the logs are attached to dowels. They are round dowels that are driven into drilled holes in the logs being joined.

When laying using the oval ridge method, in addition to the main and laying grooves, an oval protrusion is left in the bowl, and a cut of the same shape is left in the lying log. Thanks to this protrusion and cutout, reliable fixation of the log house is ensured.

The fat tail laying is the most complex of the three listed, because the groove made in the log has an unusual shape (most often it is rectangular) and is located across the log, and in the next log the cutout has a longitudinal cut of the same shape. Although making a selection in this way is very problematic, such a connection is very strong. When building and installing it yourself, you will have to acquire not only a chainsaw, but a router and an electric jigsaw.

Considering other installation methods, it should be noted that they are all very similar to each other. For example, “Oblo” and “Okhlop” have a difference in the location of the cut; in the latter, the groove is cut from the bottom of the log.

If we consider the “ohryap” method, then the groove in the beam is cut longitudinally and transversely, that is, there is a double cut in the bowl, and at the same time it is made in both logs.

Laying timber flush

The basis for connecting beams flush is the folding method, but the protruding sections of the logs are removed from the end.

And to increase the reliability of fixation, “presecs” are used; they are made in the form of protruding spikes that are attached to the edge of the frame.

When the connection has a regular groove with a “presec”, the stacked logs will be blown through at the place of laying.

Important! To prevent such defects, the cut in the timber is made in the form of a “dovetail”.

By using inclined tenons for connection, a tighter clamping of the timber is created, and as a result, thermal insulation increases.

How to make a groove in a board with your own hands

For a long time, a tongue-and-groove connection has been used in carpentry and carpentry. Ancient architects, using this method, managed to create unique wooden buildings without a single nail or screw.

And although a wide variety of hardware is now quite accessible, the articulation of individual parts of various structures by this method not only has not lost its relevance, but is also widely used in modern products and materials.

The principle of connection and its varieties

In terms of design, all tongue-and-groove joints are made according to the same principle: a protrusion is made on one part, and a recess is made on the second. They are exactly the same in configuration and size.

When these two parts are tightly joined, a strong technological unit is obtained.

When building houses, such a connection prevents the shift of one part of the structure relative to another; in the manufacture of furniture, it significantly increases the area on which glue is applied, thereby providing additional strength to the product.

Based on the geometric shape of the protrusion and recess, such joints are divided into two main types:

• rectangular cross-section (sometimes with rounded edges of tenons and grooves);

• in the form of a trapezoid (also called a “dovetail”).

Based on the number of spikes and grooves that need to be made for one joint of parts, these connections are divided into:

• single-spike;
• multi-spike.

How to choose

When it comes to purchasing a branded device, you first need to evaluate how much manual you need in your home arsenal. If we are talking about permanent use, it is recommended to carefully read the manual with the richest configuration with all bolts, clamps, conveyor and ruler. For occasional use, you can purchase basic equipment with a minimum set of functions.

When choosing, you also need to evaluate the characteristics of the circular saw. Saw diameter, motor power, platform size and functionality. From a practical point of view, it is necessary to evaluate the possibility of circular work with different materials. Wooden planks, boards, furniture panels

It is important to choose the correct length and width of the guide so that it is 2 lengths of the sole longer than the workpiece

READ How to Cut Tiles with a Glass Cutter

Driving screws

You have a choice of mild steel, stainless steel, brass or aluminum screws with straight or Phillips slots and countersunk or pan heads. Semicircular heads stand out clearly on the surface of the wood, countersunk heads are either flush with the surface, or edged with brass washers, or hidden by wooden plugs. The screws are screwed in with a hand screwdriver, a drill with an appropriate attachment, or a screwdriver.

Driving screws with a drill or screwdriver

When using a drill, install the locking mechanism so that the screw is screwed in to the required depth. If the wood is soft, the installation hole can be made with an awl; if it is hard, drill it with a drill of a smaller diameter.

The installation hole can be made with an awl

To be able to hide the screws under the wooden plugs, you will have to drill a hole for the plug with a countersink drill and a corresponding cutter for the plug. Don't use steel screws on oak - they react with the wood and moisture and cause stains. Instead, choose plated steel, brass, or stainless steel screws.

Cutting a tenon with a router

If you have a lot of tenons to cut (or if you just like working with machines), a table router is the ideal tool. If the large size of the workpiece does not allow it to be placed on the milling table, it is better to press it with clamps to the workbench and process it while holding the router in your hands. Set the fence to the length of the tenon and the router to the desired height, then, holding the workpiece firmly against the fence, remove the excess wood in several passes. When the end of the tenon rests against the stop, turn the workpiece over and repeat the procedure on the other side. If you stop before the cutter reaches the shoulder line, trim the tenon with a chisel.

Cutting a tenon with a router

OPERATING THE DEVICE

Marking the grooves is very simple. Determine the shoulder line for each groove by making a pencil mark on the face of the piece to be worked. You can put the two side walls together and mark all the grooves at once, or mark the second side wall after routing the first.

Once the jig is aligned and the cuts are marked, align the straight edge with the mark (photo C), lightly tighten the clamps and make a pass with the router, then move the jig to the next mark. A well-chosen groove should fit the tenon without gaps or backlash (photo D).

How to select a quarter on a board using a circular saw?

To do this, set the required cutting depth. To sample a quarter measuring 20x20, the disk should extend from the platform by 20-22 mm (an increase for uneven surfaces of the board). To select a versatile quarter, for example, 15x20, the depth adjustment is set twice for each size, by 15-16 mm and by 20-22 mm.

Subsequently, the operation is performed in the same way as sawing an edged board: a guide bar on two rods is installed at the required distance, and a cut is made along a wide plane. Then the board is placed on the edge and a second cut is made.

Since the edge is narrow, difficulties may arise - on some models, the guide bar may not be pulled close to the platform. In this case, a beam is attached to the board (or plank) with clamps or self-tapping screws, which increases the width to the required size.

If you cannot make a cut along the edge using a guide, you can make it using pencil markings. It is difficult to hold a circular saw on the edge of a narrow board (20-30 mm). In such cases, it is sometimes more convenient to either screw the support beam, or place the workpiece between two bars (boards) along which the saw platform will move.

Rough casing or embedded block

One of the varieties of piping, when a groove is cut into the opening, is inserted into an embedded block. It differs from a monolith in that it consists of two parts - the actual embedded block, which is inserted into the tenon, and a separate casing board. The casing board is attached to the embedded beam, and the door frame can already be attached to it (it can also be attached directly to the embedded beam).

Casing in embedded timber

Please note that the embedding block and the tenon under it are made a little larger than in a monolith. This is necessary to make the fastening more reliable. When fixing windows/doors, fasteners must be chosen so that they do not go into the wall.

Of course, this option is much easier to implement. But they don’t really like it: its reliability is still much lower than that of a monolith. But it can also be used for light doors and any windows. Another possible use is as a temporary option only for the period of shrinkage after the openings have been cut out and the frame has been left to dry. If the openings are not secured, the walls may twist. In this case, embedded timber is an excellent solution.

A groove is cut out into which the timber is driven. It is no longer held in place by anything - no nails, no self-tapping screws.

What does drying out lead to?

A typical case: you made a shed at your dacha to store household equipment and for other needs. They did it for themselves, so they pulled together the boards from which the walls were made, carefully, without the slightest crack. Two or three months pass; the boards dry out and the entire wall glows with cracks. In winter, snow blows through them; in summer, the wind blows dust inside the barn.

To prevent this from happening, you need to use quarter boards for wall cladding. A wall covered with such boards will never have through gaps. With their quarters, neighboring boards overlap each other and when they dry out, through cracks no longer appear.

Unfortunately, lumber is very rarely sold with a quarter finished. Therefore, an amateur craftsman should know the ways in which boards can be modified if necessary.

Types of groove boards

Many users have no idea how to choose a groove in a board, believing that the store will offer them only one option for connection and material.

This is far from true; there you will be greeted by a large assortment:

1. Symmetrical groove. This is the simplest type. In it, the lengths of the upper and lower shelves are the same, and they protrude at the same distance.

1. Asymmetrical groove. Here the upper shelves are longer than the lower ones.
2. Block house, used mainly for finishing walls and ceilings. The planks often imitate the relief of timber and have a semicircular or shaped profile on the front side.
3. Euro lining, like block house, is often supplied with a relief pattern.
4. Decking boards, made of wood and polymer, also have tongues and grooves that simplify installation.

On the issue of fixation

Half-timber joinery joints do not have a mechanical connection, so they are secured using gluing. We discussed in detail how to properly glue wood and choose the appropriate glue in previous materials.

While drying, the structure must be secured with clamps. When placing the clamps, make sure that their pressure is distributed evenly. An incorrectly installed clamp can deform parts or disrupt the fit of the connection.

Unlike frame structures, logs or beams are strengthened using a different technology. In this case, screws, dowels or dowels are used to secure the connection.

Rallying in a quarter

Rallying in a quarter

gives a tighter connection than butt jointing. Longitudinal side cuts (quarters) are made in the boards to be joined using a hand router, electric planer or circular saw. The depth and width of the quarter should be equal to half the thickness of the board. This type of connection leaves no cracks or gaps. Quarter bonding is useful for cladding external and internal surfaces. For example, to hide unevenness or defects in walls, insulation and flooring.

1. For an example of cutting a quarter with a circular saw, take 3 identical boards (photo 1).

2. At the beginning of work, mark 1/4 of their width on the boards on both sides. Prepare the circular saw. To do this, adjust the reach of the saw blade so that the cutting depth is equal to half the thickness of the board (photo 2).

3. For the required distance (half the thickness of the board) of the cut from the edge of the board, we adjust the parallel stop of the saw (photo 3).

4. We secure the workpiece on the work table with clamps and make a longitudinal cut with a circular saw (photo 4).

5. After this, we make longitudinal cuts on the back sides of the board (photo 5).

6. Again, secure the workpiece with clamps on the work table (photo 6.1) and make transverse cuts equal to half the thickness of the board (photo 6.2-6.4).

7. In this way we make 2 more blanks (photo 7).

8. Place the workpiece on 2 perpendicular boards (photo 8).

9. We nail the prepared blanks to their base (photo 9.1, 9.2).

10. When nailing the next workpiece, press it tightly against the previous one and fix it with nails using a hammer (photo 10).

11. The quarter joint is ready (photo 11).

GROOTS CAN BE MADE EVERYWHERE

With a groove connection, the end of one part fits into a shallow groove cut across the grain of the other.
This connection is an improvement on the simple butt connection. The groove shoulders provide decent strength. In fact, such a connection cannot be broken, for example, by pressing on a shelf. If it fits tightly, it can withstand oblique loads well, when the force is directed diagonally across the body. Using just two types of groove connections, you can make almost any body part. The main joint, where the groove engages the full thickness of the adjacent piece, allows for the assembly of bookcases, toy chests, wall shelves, or any other cabinets in which the side walls extend beyond the adjacent pieces (Figure 1).

. Main groove connection.

. Modified groove/tenon connection.

If these "through" angles are unsuitable or unsightly, use a modified joint (Figure 2) called mortise/tenon.

Drawers are also boxes. They are easily made using a basic mortise joint and a mortise/tenon joint (Figure 3). Example ZA is the strongest of them; in examples ZV and ZS, you can weaken the front wall. If you want to hide the ends of the drawer sides shown in 30, cover them with a false front or use a quarter joint as shown in 30, reinforced with nails or dowels.

. Grooves in drawers.

Types of groove boards

Many users have no idea how to choose a groove in a board, believing that the store will offer them only one option for connection and material.

This is far from true; there you will be greeted by a large assortment:

1. Symmetrical groove. This is the simplest type. In it, the lengths of the upper and lower shelves are the same, and they protrude at the same distance.

1. Asymmetrical groove. Here the upper shelves are longer than the lower ones.
2. Block house, used mainly for finishing walls and ceilings. The planks often imitate the relief of timber and have a semicircular or shaped profile on the front side.
3. Euro lining, like block house, is often supplied with a relief pattern.
4. The decking board, made of wood and polymer, also has tongues and grooves for easy installation.

The best ideas on how to make a tongue and groove using hand routers, detailed instructions

It is easy for a home craftsman to figure out how to make a tenon and groove using hand routers. Tools used, detailed instructions on how to select a groove with a router.

Using tongue-and-groove joints at home will allow you to independently create beautiful furniture that is also reliable. Even the frames of low-rise buildings are connected using this scheme, especially when it comes to serious loads during operation. Therefore, it will be useful to understand how to make a tenon and groove using manual milling cutters.

How to select a quarter on a board using a circular saw

Electric planer. How to choose a quarter on a board

Electric plane. This is a handy tool for woodworking. With its help, you can evenly cut wood and get a product of the desired shape. How to choose a quarter in an electric plane board? The process is no different from working with a circular saw. The only thing that can be an advantage of working with this particular tool. It's ease of use and clear vision when completing a task.

Such work will help you make a quality product yourself from a cheaper product, which is ideal for decorating and beautifying a room, both inside and outside.

Secrets of making half-timber frame joints

Half-timber cutting is a simple and reliable way to connect two identical parts at right angles. This method is useful when creating corner, cross and T-shaped joints. By marking and selecting half the thickness of the material in each part, you will get a neat and durable connection, which will become indispensable when assembling frames and timber structures.

Cutting into half a tree is done in different ways: using a router, circular saw or band saw. We'll show you how to create perfectly tight joints using a classic set of hand tools.

TOOLS

• carpenter's square;
• marking thicknesser;
• pencil or marking knife;
• axing saw;
• wide carpenter's chisel.

Making planks with grooves at home

Often you have to make furniture or make repairs at home, using the simplest methods and what is at hand.

If you need to make a groove in the board with your own hands, be patient and have the necessary tools:

1. A circular saw. The most practical tool, but, unfortunately, not everyone has it.
2. A regular hacksaw for wood. It will take longer to work with it, but this accessory can be found in every home.
3. Electric drill. It is also quite accessible, but before making a groove in a board with a drill, it is advisable to practice on an unnecessary block, practicing the skill.

Making a groove with a circular saw

Making a groove with a circular saw.

The optimal materials are wooden boards, bars and the like. The price of raw materials is minimal; in extreme cases, what is available on the farm is used. The most successful solution is a through, single open straight end connection.

The joint will be strong and reliable:

1. It is recommended to make tenons with a thickness of ¼ of the thickness of the plank and a groove of the same size.
2. The height and length of the groove must correspond to the dimensions of the plank.
3. Prepare a pencil and ruler for marking.
4. Decide on the coordinates of the cut and mark it.
5. The cut should be made along a line inside the side that will then be separated.
6. For a circular saw, the instructions recommend a blade width of 2-4 mm.
7. Sawing in the middle of the marked line removes 1-2 mm of excess, since two grooves are made on each plank.

Note! To prevent the workpiece from being damaged, make cuts along the inner sides of the drawn lines. In this case, a visual correction is made for the thickness of the canvas

1. If you need to join two parts at a 90º angle, cut the pieces at 45º at the ends.
2. For an end-to-end open miter connection (single straight), mark the cut locations on the oblique cuts of the planks.
3. Before removing the groove from the board, double-check that the cut is correct on all sides.
4. For an angular single connection that is not through the eye, an eye is made instead of a groove. In this case, the width of the tenon is left unchanged, and the length will be 0.3-0.8 of the width of the board being attached.
5. Since the circular saw rounds the edges of the eye, leaving the shape of the tenon unchanged, it is advisable to refine the corners by turning them with a rasp.

How to make a groove in a beam using a router, a hand-held circular saw and a chainsaw

All photos from the article
Sometimes when carrying out work there is a need to make a groove in a beam, for example, when installing internal partitions or when installing door and window blocks in openings, this is necessary for a better connection of elements and improving the appearance of the structure. Also, sometimes there is a situation when a beam with grooves needs to be joined with a conventional option, in this case a longitudinal recess is needed, we will also consider this in this review.

In the photo: cutting a groove in a timber requires precision; any errors or miscalculations are unacceptable

Tool that can be used

Let's consider what devices can help you when carrying out work:

Specialists use special machines for longitudinal profiling of timber

Features of the work

Since independent work on cutting longitudinal grooves is impractical (it is much easier to purchase a tongue-and-groove beam, this will save you a lot of time and effort), we will look at how to make slots for partitions, frames, etc. There are several options, choose the one that is more convenient for you.

Tenon-groove-tenon timber is one of the most popular and sought after options among developers

This tool is very suitable for DIY work for the following reasons:

• The device is very simple and easy to use and can be used even by those who have never performed such work. The main thing is that the kit contains instructions; from it you will learn how to prepare the equipment for work and how to use it correctly to achieve the desired result;
• You can make a groove of various shapes, the main thing is to purchase a cutter of the desired configuration. What is important is that the work is carried out in one pass, additional refinement is not required as in other cases, and the quality of the groove is very high;

A correctly selected cutter will help you easily achieve the desired result.

• The kit always comes with a stop, this will save you from the question of how to cut a groove in a beam exactly, the tool will go at the same distance from the edge, which means the cut will be even. The most important thing is to set up the device correctly before work; then you won’t have to be distracted by it.

Before selecting a groove in the timber, move the stop to the required distance

Hand-held circular saws

Very mobile equipment that can be used for cutting elements of small thickness; it is also often used for the purposes discussed in our article, this is due to the following factors:

• Equipment mobility – parquet floors weigh little and have compact dimensions, making them easy to move to the right place and cut even in limited space;

Mobility is the main advantage of this option

Advice! This saw is very convenient for making grooves in window and door openings, where there is little space and it is difficult to position yourself with a chainsaw or router.

• The workflow is simple - you mark the future grooves, and then cut along the lines. The depth is limited by the offset of the disc, remember this factor;
• After you have made the cuts, you need to use a hammer and chisel to remove the excess and level the cut, this is very important.

Working with a chainsaw

This type of tool is available at all sites where structures made of wooden beams are erected, so it can be used for our purposes.

Let's look at how to cut a groove in a beam with this tool:

• First of all, you need to mark the future groove, and it is more convenient to work on elements that lie on a horizontal surface at a height of about 1 meter. If the work is done in this way, then mark the depth so as not to cut too much;

It is important to cut the timber to the required depth

• Some do the job entirely with a chainsaw, and some prefer to remove the cut piece with a wood chisel;
• If you need to cut a groove for a partition on an already installed wall, then you need to draw lines that will be the main guidelines and cut along them. Proceed carefully, try to maintain the same depth along the entire length; in extreme cases, you can then trim individual sections.

Conclusion

It is important to cut the grooves correctly so that all connections are as secure as possible. The choice of tool depends on the characteristics of the work and the availability of a particular tool. This article will tell you the features of working with some types of tools.