How to protect the lower crown of a log house from rotting and mold?

In the photo: finishing the steam room of a bathhouse with wood (lining)

Anyone who wants their bathhouse to last as long as possible is considering various options for extending its life. Various impregnations are just among the products that promise just that. But let's find out what they are and where they are most appropriate.

For this purpose, we decided to divide our article into two parts, devoting one of them to impregnations for the bathhouse inside, and the other to the outside.

The difference is obvious - everything that is outdoors is exposed to solar ultraviolet radiation and seasonal precipitation, frost and heat. This suggests some aggressive response. And what is inside the bathhouse should be as harmless as possible to humans, but still quite effective, because the bathhouse has high humidity.

How to apply impregnation correctly

Before applying any product, the surface is thoroughly cleaned and, if necessary, sanded.
High-quality finishing of the walls and ceiling with wooden lining, and the floor with boards will increase the service life of the bathhouse. In addition, it will give the room a neat, finished appearance. However, the lining, the floorboard, and other finishing materials still need to be covered with protective agents. How to carry out interior decoration of a bathhouse or sauna, read here. Varnish, oil or other product is applied in several layers using a roller. Difficult areas in the corners and between the crowns are treated with a brush. Each new layer is applied only after the previous one has completely dried! When using oil, remove excess product before drying. Such processing should be carried out every 4-10 years, depending on the type of materials and the quality of work. To get long-term and reliable results, turn to professionals!

“MariSrub” craftsmen will select high-quality and reliable impregnations and quickly and reliably process the bathhouse. We provide a full range of services. It includes the design and construction of a bathhouse or house with a foundation and roof, production of lumber for the project, installation and connection of utility networks, and complex finishing. We offer insulation and waterproofing of baths, protective treatment of materials in several stages! We guarantee high quality work and strict adherence to deadlines.

How to treat a wooden bath

A wooden log house retains its performance qualities for a long time if the beams are promptly protected from adverse factors. Let's consider the main reasons for damage to bathhouse walls and ways to protect the building.

• Application Features
• To protect the log house from destructive factors, you should not use all the preparations at once and indiscriminately. Each product has its own purpose; if used incorrectly, the condition of the walls can worsen.

Purpose of protective materials for a wooden bath

Modern preparations are able to protect the log bathhouse from all kinds of natural and physical influences:

1. UV protection
   . Always protect the tree from the sun's ultraviolet rays. The sun's rays burn out natural resins in logs and destroy the structure of the wood. The material ages and becomes gray. To treat a log bathhouse, use compounds that create an ultraviolet filter. Containers with such impregnation are marked with the “UV” symbol.
2. Fireproof impregnation
   . To prevent the wooden structure from burning, the logs are impregnated with special substances - fire retardants. After treatment, the wood will not ignite from a cigarette butt or spark. Cans of fire retardants are marked with a picture of fire.
3. Moisture protection
   . Water is considered the main enemy of wood. When exposed to water or snow, wood rots, especially the lower parts of the walls. To protect the logs, they are impregnated with special compounds that protect the walls for 10 years.
4. Antiseptic impregnation
   . Wood can be destroyed by molds, mosses and other microorganisms. It is very difficult to remove fungi, and they will ruin the appearance of the log forever. Microorganisms are disinfected with antiseptic impregnations. Products containing beeswax have proven well.
5. Insect protection
   . Wood-boring beetles, bark beetles and weevils infest logs, which can turn a wooden structure into dust. Biocides are used to kill insects. The product can be recognized by the image of a beetle on the label.

Types of protective coatings for wooden baths

The products intended for impregnation of a log bathhouse are quite varied. They are divided into drugs for internal and external use. Let's take a closer look at their features.

Products for internal treatment of wooden baths

Preparations for interior walls are recognized by the inscription “For sauna”. High-quality products can be bought in the company store. Let's consider how to treat the inside of a wooden bathhouse:

• The walls of the log house in the steam room and washing room are treated with special substances on a natural basis without artificial additives, which do not emit toxic fumes at high temperatures and humidity. Such preparations belong to the highest degree of environmental safety.
• For interior work, use Teknowax 1160 - a special wax for baths. The substance is odorless, without toxic elements. After application, it forms a smooth film on the wall that does not allow liquid and steam to pass through and can withstand high temperatures. They produce two types of bath wax - transparent and whitish. Transparent retains the wood texture. White wax visually expands the room. The product can be used to cover walls in the steam room, washing room and other areas of the bathhouse.
• To treat logs in the dressing room and rest room, you can use harmless products that do not cause allergic reactions. Such preparations include Teknocoat Aqua 2550. This is a water-borne acrylic varnish that forms a protective film on the wall. The film is elastic and washes well.

Products for external treatment of wooden baths

Coatings used to protect the outside of a bathhouse are divided into impregnations and varnishes. Let's find out how to treat the outside of a wooden bathhouse:

1. Impregnations can protect wood from ultraviolet radiation, but cannot withstand precipitation. Water washes away protective substances from wood, the sun burns bald spots on it, as a result, the appearance deteriorates, and the logs quickly deteriorate. Impregnations protect wood for 5 years. Therefore, it is necessary to re-coat the walls with protective substances.
2. When walls are varnished, an indelible film remains on the wood, protecting the building from moisture and ultraviolet radiation. Before treating a wooden bathhouse with varnish, inquire about the properties of the protective film it creates. If it is too rigid, it can tear and crumble when the structure shrinks or the natural expansion of the wood. For outdoor work, purchase varnishes that create an elastic film. Therefore, it is not recommended to cover the outside of the bathhouse with yacht varnish.
3. For exterior use, it is recommended to use Aquatop 2920-04 varnish, which creates an elastic coating. The protection will last 15 years.
4. Also, high-quality protective materials for wooden external walls are produced by well-known foreign companies Tikkurila, Pinotex, Remmers.
5. Among domestic products, we can offer products from manufacturers Senezh, Aquatex, Rogneda.
6. You can also use ancient means to protect log houses. The most famous are drying oil from vegetable oils, tar and tar from charcoal. True, the appearance of the building will deteriorate slightly.
7. Instead of varnish, the walls of the bathhouse can be painted on the outside. Paint is chosen according to a similar principle - to retain water and ultraviolet radiation. Therefore, the darker the color, the better the protection. Apply paint in several layers.

Types and applications of solutions

You should not treat all surfaces of the building with the same solution. You should proceed from the proximity of the product coated with the protective composition to the person during the bath. So, for example, when choosing what to treat the lower rims of a bathhouse with, there is no point in overpaying for an expensive and harmless composition, because they do not come into contact with people.

Composition for the lower elements of the bath

Treatment of the sauna base

To sufficiently protect this element of the building, any antiseptics available for sale on the shelves of hardware stores are suitable. Their main task is to protect against mold and pests.

If their price and the unknown quality make you doubt, then you can use the following recipe and prepare the solution yourself:

Heat the bitumen in a bucket until it boils.

Bitumen should be heated until it boils completely.

• Remove the bucket and set it away from the fire.
• Mixing thoroughly, pour diesel fuel until a black liquid mass is obtained in a cold state.
• The result is an inexpensive and excellent antiseptic, which is the best answer to the question of how to treat the lower crown of the bathhouse.

This homemade solution is also perfect for treating logs in a bathhouse. Because the underground is also not a bath element in contact with people, but is often located in increased dampness.

Wall treatment

Coating the timber with an antiseptic

In the case of interior wall decoration, you must remember that while visiting the steam room you will have to breathe what you treated them with.

The most common and trustworthy are:

1. Antiseptic “Sauna”, made on an acrylic base. Creates a transparent polymer layer that:
   Does not allow air, dirt and water to pass through.
2. Eliminates pathogenic microorganisms common in everyday life that cause infectious diseases in the human body.
3. Improves the aesthetic appearance of wood surfaces.

Sample of water-based antiseptic

1. Natura. Creates a translucent water-repellent coating for wood. There is a possibility of tinting with a wide range of shades.

Now you know how to treat the walls in a bathhouse without fear of subsequent poisoning.

Shelf processing

Shelves coated with a protective layer

The peculiarity of shelves and benches for a bath is that they are touched by human skin. Consequently, when a polymer layer appears on them, there is a risk of burns. This leads to the need to use solutions that are well absorbed into the wood pores.

These include such oil compositions as:

• Sauna Natura;
• Supi Laudesuoja;
• Eurotex "Sauna".

Pest Control Materials

When trying to prevent a log house from rotting from moisture, one should not forget about protecting it from various pests that threaten the integrity of the crowns. If the logs of the log house were prepared or stored incorrectly, various insects can settle in them: bark beetles, weevils and other small creatures that can turn the logs into dust.

It is considered correct to use material for the log house prepared in winter. Then you can count on the absence of bugs and their larvae in the wood. Before processing, the prepared material must be well dried. There are special antiseptics on sale that are designed to protect against mold and fungi, containing chemicals - fungicides and more modern biocides, which are poisonous to beetles and other wood pests. Known effective products containing fungicides are:

• products: Neomid 400, 450, 500;
• impregnations Prosept Exterior, Prosept Interior, ;
• drugs produced by;
• drug "Bioshield - 2";
• drug "Sagus".

Harvested wood must be treated after drying with one of the products containing fungicides, or directly with a fungicide.

The lower crowns of a log house: we design and build correctly

The beginning of the construction of a log house must comply with the classical requirements of construction: before laying the lower crown on the strip foundation, it is necessary to lay roofing felt with bitumen impregnation. It will serve as waterproofing between the foundation and the logs; For the frame crown, it is recommended to choose larger logs than others. It is better to use wood that is least susceptible to rotting. Tying the crowns of a log house involves placing two opposite logs on the bottom, and the other two on top. This laying scheme also applies to the first crown.

The result is an arrangement of perpendicular sides at different levels. If the lower logs of the first crown lie directly on the roofing material and are pressed tightly against the foundation due to slight compression, then the upper ones form a gap the size of which is half their diameter. You can prevent rotting during this installation if:

• coat the surfaces of the lower logs that have been hewn by 4–5 cm with a protective agent;
• lay a compactor between the foundation and the adjacent logs; moss, tow or jute are usually used;
• fill the gaps between the foundation and the top logs of the crown with bricks, timber or halves of logs. Also close all joints with moss or other sealants.

The problem of the formation of large gaps between the upper logs and the surface of the foundation can be solved in other ways: 1. By making a foundation, the perpendicular sides of which are located at different levels. With this method, the rim logs require minimal processing, which ensures their integrity, so they can last longer. 2. By cutting off the lower logs by half, and the upper ones by 4-5 cm. This ensures a tight fit of the lower crown to the surface of the foundation.

At the corners, the logs are joined by notching into a joint, when notches are made at the top and bottom. To protect against rotting, in this case, all hewn surfaces must be carefully treated with an antiseptic and other protective agents. To reduce the effect of moisture, frame timber or boards pre-treated with protective materials can be laid under the lower crowns.

This will not only help further protect them from rotting, but will also make updating easier, since rotten boards are easier to replace than crown logs.

Waterproofing between the foundation and the log house

The most important point affecting the durability of the lower crowns in houses made of timber or logs is the correct organization of waterproofing between the foundation and the log house.

The fact is that most of the now popular “stone” building materials have good capillary conductivity, and if additional waterproofing measures are not taken, the lower crown will always be wet.

In this case, moisture is cut off by laying sheets of roofing material or by covering the contact zone with liquid rubber.

Roofing felt waterproofing

Roofing felt is laid according to the standard method (on liquid bitumen), and an inter-crown sealant must be laid between the waterproofing and the crown.

Correct first crown

Tools for replacing lower crowns

The bathhouse can be raised above the base using jacks

What exactly is required for replacement depends on the type of repair and the chosen method. The main condition for work is clearing the foundation. The bathhouse must be raised above the base, installed on temporary supports, and then proceed with replacement.

They do this in 2 ways.

1. Lifting by crane is rarely used, since repairing the lower crown takes a lot of time. This method is used when the box is removed from the foundation and moved to another area until the work is completed.
2. Lifting with jacks - hydraulic or screw. These devices are placed in the corners of the bathhouse and each corner is raised one by one, placing temporary support under it. The work requires more time, but the box can remain on the supports for as long as desired.

In addition to lifting equipment, you need:

• support panels - they help distribute the load;
• bars - this is how you adjust the height of the jack;
• metal spacers - distribute the load from the moving part of the device.

You also need a shovel, a crowbar, and carpentry tools for processing logs. If the foundation is also damaged, a cement-sand mortar will be required to arrange it.

Chemical treatment

A huge number of different impregnations and mastics make novice builders tempted to cover the first crowns of a log or timber house with a thick sealing layer that completely eliminates the circulation of moisture.

The expediency of such an action is very questionable, since complete sealing will lead to the opposite effect - the log will remain stably moist and, as a result, will turn into an excellent incubator for microbiological substances.

But what is really worth doing from the operations of chemical preparation of wood for long-term use is antiseptic treatment, which minimizes the risk of biological contamination of wood.

We recommend not experimenting with the so-called “folk methods of antiseptic treatment (vitriol, old machine oil, etc.)”, since in this case there is always a risk of getting a stable source of carcinogens, emitting them, by the way, not only into the external environment, but and in the underground

In any hardware store today you can purchase inexpensive antiseptics that are certified in government laboratories and have a number of additional useful qualities (for example, almost all antiseptics can be used as a primer before painting).

Among the “ancient” methods of extending the life of the lower crowns of a log house, it is worth mentioning fumigation, which consists of burning logs in an open fire.

The essence of the technique is that when the outer layer of the log is fired, the capillary network of the wood becomes clogged, through which dangerous saturation with moisture occurs

But - what is important - in this case the effect of vapor permeability is preserved, which, by the way, is absent in many polymer sealants

Calculate the cost of painting and insulating your home right now

The lower crown of the bath

The lower crown of the log house is most susceptible to rotting

The lower crown of the bathhouse is most susceptible to moisture. Therefore, it often rots very quickly. The entire frame is still in excellent condition, but it has to be replaced. What to do?

First, let's determine why the lower crown of the bathhouse rots very quickly. The causes of rotting must be determined in order to take a number of protective measures even when assembling a new log house.

The healthy condition of the lower crown is influenced by the following constructive measures when building a wooden house or bathhouse, which must be done without errors:

1. a waterproofing layer of roofing felt on the surface of the concrete foundation in front of the brickwork of the base. This layer of waterproofing prevents moisture from rising from below and absorbing it into the brick material. Wet brick is not the best basis for the lower log of a log house.
2. the second waterproofing layer of roofing felt is placed on the upper level of the brickwork of the base. It is the roofing felt that comes into contact with the wood of the lower crown of the log house. This contact must be made correctly.
3. vents in a brick base or concrete foundation in order to provide natural ventilation in the underground.
4. to prevent rainwater from getting in and stagnating on the roofing felt (see point 2), it is necessary to make a protective flashing. Its design can be different depending on the chosen material. You can simply cover the joint with a flashing board around the perimeter of the log house. You can make a drain from galvanized steel or buy it ready-made and install it so that it covers the joint and, at the same time, protects the basement part of the bathhouse from rain due to a slight offset from the outer edge of the brickwork. You can make a screed with a slope from cement-sand mortar along the upper edge of the base and stick soft tiles along it.
5. Treat the lower rims with protective compounds in several layers

The absence of any of the above measures leads to rapid rotting of the casing.

The best way to avoid replacing the lower crowns is to make them from larch. Larch has the ability to harden (turn to stone) even more in the presence of moisture. It is not susceptible to fungi.

If it is not possible to get larch logs and in your region only pine is used for log houses, then you can compromise and find at least a larch board. By placing it under the lower crown, you can solve the problem of replacing the lower crowns in the same way if there were a pair of lower logs made of larch. The option is quite generous in monetary terms.

If you can’t get larch boards, then oak grows everywhere. Oak boards are a good alternative to deciduous boards. In addition, it is easier to replace the board than the lower crown.

Regarding the second point of protective measures: since the waterproofing from the roofing felt layer has a horizontal surface on which the lower log is laid, it is natural that water can stand here in puddles. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure that the surface of the roofing material is not horizontal, but has a slight slope to the outer sides to allow water to flow to the ground.

It's very easy to do:

1. cut narrow strips of roofing felt approximately 5 cm wide
2. put them 3-4 pieces together
3. lay these roofing felt strips in the middle of the width of the plinth (or foundation)
4. on top of them, place a layer of roofing felt slightly wider than the width of the plinth. (Usually a meter-wide roll of roofing felt is cut in half, resulting in a width of 500 mm, which is quite enough for waterproofing along the plinth (or foundation).

These additional soft “pads” will give you the following benefits:

1. a soft “lining” will close the gaps that have formed between the log and the surface of the plinth due to unevenness of the lower surface of the log itself. In a normal situation, they are either left uncovered and the floor is raised above this joint so that it ends up underground. Or they are plugged with tow, but always from the outside; the joint is sealed with some kind of elastic sealant to prevent the tow from getting wet. This option is not entirely reliable. Better tightness is achieved through a soft “gasket”
2. since in the middle it will be higher due to 5 layers of roofing material (4 narrow strips and 1 layer of a wide main strip), then the surface of the waterproofing layer will have a slope for water to drain from its surface.

Even with this design of roofing felt waterproofing, it is necessary to cover the lower crown and the upper part of the base with a galvanized or painted steel drain to prevent any moisture from getting under the lower log (see paragraph 4 of protective measures).

Bath impregnation: the right choice

Most people, when choosing a material for a bathhouse, look at wood. The fact is that this material is the most environmentally friendly and at the same time retains heat perfectly. At the same time, there is a special impregnation of wood for baths, which can provide the material with additional qualities and significantly increase its service life.

The process of treating a bath with a special composition

Properties of protective materials

Amateur photo of a special material designed specifically for baths, saunas and rooms with high humidity

First of all, it should be noted that these compositions have a number of features. At the same time, standard impregnation of a bathhouse for shelves usually only protects the surface from moisture, although experts advise choosing materials with enhanced properties.

Effects of moisture on wood

Types of impacts

• The most important factor that affects wood in a bathhouse is humidity. It causes the material to rot and quickly collapse.
• Also, as a result of dampness, fungus or mold may appear on the surface of the bathhouse. That is why bath floor impregnation usually contains antibacterial substances. They are able to destroy existing deposits and prevent the formation of new deposits.

A fungus harmful to the human body that forms on unprotected wooden surfaces

• Special attention is paid to protection from harmful insects. The fact is that parasites that feed on wood have access to the material from the outside, so the material must be protected from them.
• It is worth noting that the bathhouse is a structure in which high temperatures and open fire are constantly present. That is why wood, as a substance susceptible to fire, must be protected. However, it is worth noting that the price of compositions with fire-fighting properties is quite high, which means that they should only be used to treat those areas that are most susceptible to this effect.

Advice! Professional craftsmen recommend using such impregnations for baths and saunas, which can provide comprehensive protection. This solution will be the most practical and will even save money.

Appearance of wood damaged by insects

Surface application

• All manuals that tell you how to impregnate the inside of a bathhouse, first of all, involve mechanical processing of the material. The fact is that this way the surface will get rid of the fleecy structure, which will absorb all the moisture and significantly increase consumption.
• Typically, the installation instructions suggest using sandpaper with a fine corundum fraction for pre-treatment. However, to make the work easier, it is worth using special grinders or drill attachments.

Sanding wood allows you to get rid of the fleecy structure

• At the next stage, the surface is covered with a uniform layer of the selected material. This is done with your own hands, using a paint brush or roller as a tool.
• It is worth noting that for such work, liquid compositions with high fluidity are used.

Material that protects wood from fire

• The fact that impregnation for log bathhouses is most often made colorless also deserves special attention. That is why, when working in a room with poor lighting, it is difficult to determine where the treated surface is and where the raw wood is.
• Given these features, bath impregnation is often mixed with a small amount of dye. It will give the surface a certain contrast and help distinguish the treated areas.

After the composition has dried, it is quite difficult to distinguish the treated surface from ordinary wood.

• It must be taken into account that in this type of room there is always a high temperature. Therefore, many manuals that talk about how to impregnate a log bathhouse recommend selecting compositions that do not emit harmful substances when heated. On the packaging of some materials there are special notes indicating that they are designed specifically for these buildings.
• If the question arises about how to impregnate the lower crown of the bathhouse, the best option would be to use ordinary bitumen or mastic based on it. The fact is that it is considered the most reliable protection, although it does not have a very good appearance.

To facilitate the process of applying the composition to the surface, you should use a sprayer, and in small areas you can use a brush or roller

• It is worth noting that professional craftsmen recommend using the same material when asked how to impregnate the floor in a bathhouse sink. However, it is worth creating a topcoat or laying pallets.

Advice! Surfaces that do not have direct contact with water can be treated once, while in a wash room several layers should be used.

By adding a dye to the impregnation composition, you can give the final product a certain color, emphasizing its structure

It should be remembered that complex impregnation for wood in a bathhouse is much more effective, since it immediately solves a lot of problems. However, sometimes, given the high consumption, its use can become very wasteful.

Choosing wood for the bottom trim and first crown

The question of choosing a tree is quite simple - it is larch. Anyone who can afford to make the lower crown of a country house from this tree will be spared from further problems with its durability. The fact is that larch, even being completely in water, only becomes stronger over time. Even the builders of Venice knew about this property of larch. The piles of the houses of this city, which is almost entirely in water, are made of larch and have been in service for hundreds of years.

Rules for the design and processing of the lower trim and the first crown

If you cannot find larch for laying the first crown of a garden house, then for other types of wood you should pay attention to the basic rules for constructing a crown and its processing, which include the following

• waterproofing from the foundation;
• cutting off atmospheric moisture using tides;
• surface treatment with antiseptic preparations;
• end processing.

Waterproofing the foundation is half the success

One of the main requirements when laying the first log or beam on the foundation of a garden, country house or bathhouse is waterproofing this log from the top of the foundation. Usually builders use roofing felt for this purpose, but its service life does not exceed 5 years and the durability of the lower log or timber with such insulation raises reasonable doubts. The best option for this purpose would be Technoelast or Uniflex, or their more economical option - Bikrost. The service life of these multilayer coatings far exceeds the service life of roofing felt.

The second task facing house builders is to cut off atmospheric moisture directly from the point where the lower log or beam touches the foundation. If such measures are not taken, waterproofing the log from the foundation simply loses its meaning. Solving this problem does not pose any difficulties; it is enough to install wide ebbs along the entire perimeter of the country house or bathhouse.

Let us separately dwell on the habit of many builders of placing moss under the lower crown. Its antiseptic properties have been known for a long time and it seems that its use in this case is justified. However, this overlooks the tubular structure of moss and its ability to absorb moisture from the atmosphere during rainy periods of the year. The author sees that this property negates its positive qualities, and the use of moss for additional insulation of a log or beam from the foundation does not seem entirely justified.

Protective ebb

Low tide

In some cases, it makes sense to mount additional flashings above the lower crown, minimizing the flow of moisture into the first inter-crown seams.

On the front facades of houses, such a solution is not always acceptable for aesthetic reasons, but on the rear walls, which are often shaded or stand adjacent to outbuildings, such protection will not be superfluous.

Please note that it is advisable to make such ebbs from the most protected material, since it will have to work in conditions of constant humidity.

How to prevent rotting

The main cause of rotting is construction errors. If they are allowed, then even industrial impregnation will not provide reliable protection against rot and mold. During construction it is necessary to provide:

Drainage of water from the foundation. Water should not accumulate under the floor or near the bath; a good drainage system is required.

Water should not accumulate near the bathhouseSource vodolov.ru

• Ventilation holes. Vents will prevent moisture from accumulating. To prevent heat from escaping through them, they are closed during washing.
• Window in the washing room and steam room, wide doors. Through them you can quickly release accumulated steam after washing.
• Quality of materials. A tree without cracks, chips, or signs of rot will remain healthy longer.
• Oven size. It must match the size of the bath. A stove that is too small will not provide the required temperature in the steam room, but will create a humid and warm environment in the corners and under the floor.
• Quality of flooring. If the boards fit tightly, water will not be able to get under the floor.
• Distance from shelves to walls. There should be no gaps between them; this is a direct path to sources of rot.

The bathhouse should be regularly ventilated and cleaned using chlorine cleaners, and the boards should be inspected for rotten areas. This will ensure maximum safety of wooden structures.

This video shows how to clean a sauna perfectly.

Why do logs rot in bathhouses?

The wooden floor in the bathhouse is pleasant underfoot, retains heat well, looks and smells nice. But the conditions for boards in this building are harsh. High temperature and humidity create conditions for harmful processes - rotting and fungal growth. Rotting is visible on the floor boards, but if the pathological process has affected the joists, the problem will not become noticeable soon.

Causes of log rotting:

• Gaps in the floor through which water penetrates under the boards;
• Poor ventilation, lack of windows;
• The oven is of insufficient size and does not provide the required temperature;
• Improper drainage around the building;
• Presence of rotting areas on floor boards.

If the owner does not carefully monitor the wooden floor in the bathhouse, rotting can destroy the structure in 2-3 years.

Signs of rotting logs:

• Crackling and creaking of the floor with intact boards;
• Mobility of boards for no apparent reason;
• The smell of rot and mold that remains even after cleaning.

Rotten joists do not support the floor Source ytimg.com
Rotting beams release harmful substances into the air, this process intensifies at high temperatures. Entering such a bathhouse does not make a person healthier, but harms the respiratory system and skin. If the process has gone too far, the joists may break under the weight of people at the most inopportune moment.

Complete replacement of the lower crowns

Major repairs in the form of a complete replacement of the lower crowns include raising the frame, removing rotten logs and installing new crowns. The work is carried out in the following order: preparatory activities, replacement of the lower crowns and beams.

Preparatory activities:

• maximum lightening of the entire structure (removal of furniture and plumbing, removal of doors and windows, dismantling of the floor and roofing);
• dismantling stoves and fireplaces if they do not have their own independent foundation;
• separation of the chimney from the ceiling and roof, if the stove is not dismantled;
• disconnecting floor joists if they are embedded in the lower crowns to be replaced;
• shutting down all communications.

To secure the crowns along the entire perimeter of the house, boards with a thickness of at least 3 cm are nailed vertically at a distance of 45-60 cm from each other. You can fasten adjacent crowns using metal staples. Fastening is provided on both sides of the wall (outside and inside).

To lift the log house at a distance of 60-80 cm from the corner of the building, an opening 35-45 cm wide is made in the foundation and part of the logs is cut out to form a niche for installing a jack. The following lifting technology can be used:

1. With one jack. Each corner is raised in turn.
2. Using 2 jacks. First, one wall is raised completely, and after it is fixed, the opposite one.
3. On 4 jacks. The entire frame rises at once. This method eliminates damage to the frame, but requires coordination of the operation of the devices.

After raising the corner of the log house to a height sufficient to remove one log, a support is placed under the first crown, which cannot be replaced, mounted on 2 posts. This way the frame is fixed at all lifting points, and the jack is removed.

Unusable logs are knocked off the nigels and removed outside. Then new logs are installed. They are immediately held together with nigels. A jack is again placed under the lower crown, which is used to compact the new logs.

Before completing the work, the foundation is repaired if necessary, the waterproofing between the base and the base is restored, and a new filling element is installed. After this, using jacks, the frame is slowly lowered to its original place, secured with pins.

After the log house is completely lowered, all the cracks between the logs are caulked with moss, tow or jute. The thermal and waterproofing of the base is restored.

Types of protective compounds and requirements for them

It should be immediately noted that after treating the walls with a protective composition, the appearance of the building should not deteriorate

It is important that the wood retains its natural appeal. The protective layer should not negatively affect the technical characteristics of the wood - air permeability should remain at the same level

Also, the protective layer must ensure that the wood can withstand atmospheric influences (precipitation, sunlight, temperature changes), fire and insect pests.

Treatment with impregnations allows you to reveal and emphasize the wood grain

All these issues cannot be solved only by treating the walls with antiseptic compounds. Only comprehensive treatment will help. Using the following means:

1. Antiseptics that prevent the appearance of mold and mildew.
2. Fire retardants, which increase the fire resistance of wood. During processing, the substance penetrates the top layer of wood and is released when the surface is heated, forming a protective film.
3. With the help of varnishes and paints, wood can be protected from atmospheric moisture and sun. To preserve the wood texture and shade, it is recommended to use colorless compounds. Sometimes a colored pigment can be added to enhance the tone of the wood.

The use of protective compounds and coatings allows you to preserve a wooden frame in its original form and extend the service life of structures. There is no other way to preserve the shade and texture of wood. Painting with alkyd compounds and varnishing is only a temporary measure. At the same time, the “breathing” ability of wood with repeated staining is significantly reduced.

The treatment of bath walls is carried out in stages:

1. First, the walls need to be prepared - clean and sand the outer layer. At this stage, the damaged wood is removed, the surface becomes smooth - this will allow the impregnation to be applied evenly and ensure its maximum penetration into the structure of the material.
2. Then the walls are completely treated with protective compounds several times. Each layer is applied after the previous one has completely dried.
3. The last layer is designed to protect the wood from external influences (paint, varnish, stain).

Initially, the logs from which the bathhouse will be built are treated with protective compounds - antiseptics. When the log dries to the optimal moisture content, substances are applied to its ends that prevent deformation and cracking of the natural building material.

Primary processing is carried out at the stage of assembly of the structure

It is a mistake to think that this processing is sufficient. Indeed, during the construction process, logs or beams are subject to adjustment and trimming, so the finished structure also needs careful processing.

But these are only theoretical recommendations. In fact, the protective layer weakens much faster and this depends on the climatic characteristics of the construction region.

Advantages of treating logs with the antiseptic composition Neomid 430 eco

Using Neomid 430 eco will preserve the strength properties of the lower logs, which can significantly extend the life of the entire log house. After all, they are the foundation, their functions with the foundation are almost equal. They are also responsible for the integrity and stability of the entire structure. Eco-logs protected and treated with Neomid 430 will not be disturbed by fungi, mold and insects for a long time.

Wood processing with folk remedies

When figuring out how to treat the lower crown of a wooden house or bathhouse, pay attention to folk remedies that have become classic. Their advantages include relatively low cost

However, some processing options cannot be called safe.

1. Copper sulfate. Used for logs with natural moisture. The log for the lower crown is installed on the end, strictly vertically. A rag soaked generously in a solution of copper sulfate is placed on the upper end and covered with a plastic bag. The cloth should be moistened regularly. After some time, the solution of copper sulfate will pass through the capillaries of the wood (this will be helped by the flow of sap in a freshly cut log) and will saturate the log through and through. This can be easily checked by examining the bottom end. Copper sulfate cannot be used to treat the crowns of bathhouses and saunas - when heated, it releases toxic substances that are dangerous to human health.

2. Finnish way. This is how wood structures were traditionally protected in northern Europe, including the lower crowns and the back of the floor in saunas. To make the mixture you will need 800 g of flour (any type), 1.5 kg of slaked lime and copper sulfate, 400 g of table salt. At the first stage, flour is stirred in water, achieving the consistency of sour cream, five liters of heated, but not boiling water are poured in, stirred and filtered. Then the resulting substance is heated and salt, vitriol and, lastly, slaked lime are added. The mounted lower crown is coated with the resulting composition twice with intermediate drying. Such protection will protect the wood from rotting for 10-15 years.

3. Logs or beams of the lower crown are impregnated with oil and propolis. Then thoroughly rub with natural wax. This is a labor-intensive and expensive processing option, but has proven itself over many generations.

4. If construction is carried out from coniferous wood, spruce resin (resin), as well as birch tar, are suitable for processing the elements of the lower crown. The advantage is protection not only from rotting, but also from damage by insects; the disadvantages include:

• unpleasant smell of tar and stickiness of resin;
• impossibility of grinding rims;
• inability to subsequently paint or varnish the treated surface with wood;
• fire hazard – tar and resin are flammable substances.

Typically, only the surface of the crown in contact with the foundation or ground is treated with tar or resin.

5. Tar, bitumen. The resin is heated, mixed with diesel fuel, and the resulting composition is coated with the elements of the lower crown. The reliability of the protective layer has led to the fact that today manufacturers offer a wide range of bitumen-based impregnations and mastics.

6. Drying oil and various types of oils. They protect wood well from moisture. Before application, it is recommended to heat the material to increase fluidity. Processing in several layers with intermediate drying will increase the reliability of the result.

7. Workout. Treating the crowns with used motor oil is a cheap and easy option. Mineral oils are an effective water repellent, and the soot contained in motor oils serves as an antiseptic. The composition is applied heated in several layers, and the previous layer should be allowed to absorb well. The disadvantages include unevenness and insufficiently high quality of impregnation, as well as the unattractive appearance of the treated logs. They cannot be painted in the future.

8. Firing with open fire. An ancient way to protect wood from rotting is to roast (“fumigate”) logs over a fire. This is where the name “hut on chicken legs” came from. Carefully scorch the timber or log using a blowtorch - the burnt layer will clog the capillaries through which moisture could enter the wood.

Answers from experts

Natalya Zhiltsova:

coat with working oil...

Mr.Know-All:

I exclusively use synthetic Mobil 1 5w 30

Malik Terekbaev:

With the use of high-quality waterproofing, the issue of rotting of the lower crowns has not ceased to be relevant. Waterproofing cuts off moisture from hygroscopic concrete, but is itself a source of condensation. Moreover, this amount is enough to feed a favorable environment for wood fungus. Condensation forms at the boundary between the waterproofing and the lower crown. I called this place the condensation zone. First, I decided to put technical cork with a density of 260 kg/m2 on the waterproofing. cube 10 mm thick. This is what I did when building my house. I think the problem has been solved, but I was haunted by the thought that this was a bit of a hassle. Many are beginning to doubt the strength of cork, although this density can withstand deformation loads of about 70 tons per square meter. meter, shrinking by only 10%. And it is not easy to find such a specific product in every region. And then I came up with an idea that was close to “brilliant”: to use improvised material. This material is nothing more than bakelite plywood, which is used as formwork in monolithic construction. This plywood is a unique material that combines the qualities of both wood and plastic. The thermal conductivity of bakelite is comparable to larch, and the resistance to rotting, thanks to bakelite varnish, is no worse than that of plastic. So, we put a strip of bakelite plywood on the waterproofing; used ones will do; you can get them from monolithic manufacturers, narrow scraps of which are plentiful at every construction site. It is advisable that the edge of the plywood on the outside of the frame does not protrude. This measure reduces the possibility of rain falling between the plywood and the crown. That's basically it! I moved the condensation zone to the area between the waterproofing and the non-rotting bakelite. And since the heat capacity of plywood is not much lower than pine, the formation of condensation between them is practically impossible. For complete peace of mind, you can put one layer of technical cork on top of the bakelite, which is used as a backing for the laminate. I assure you that such a simple solution to the “eternal problem” will extend the life of your log house many times over. You and your descendants will not need to change the lower crowns in 30-40 years. By the way, the same technique can be used in frame construction and wherever wood is used. Good luck to you in everything!

Mikhalych:

it is not necessary to process them, just eliminate moisture from entering the crown and arrange normal ventilation inside the washing room. on the house and dacha forum there are sections about bathhouses, the guys there describe everything coolly, although you can always argue

Pooh:

I treated it with Senezh...how it holds up only time will tell, but in general there are a lot of opinions...to understand you have to be a construction chemist.... It seems to me that sometimes we overpay simply for beautiful packaging and for advertising... the main thing for wood is ventilation and lack of moisture.... there is a website on antiseptics...forumhouse /forum219/ you enter antiseptics in the search and see everything you need

Method #1. Replacing the lower crowns in parts

There are situations when the logs in a log house are partially damaged and do not need complete replacement. In this case, it is enough to remove the rotten area by putting in its place a “patch” made of wood, brick or other materials.

The technology for partial replacement of the lower crowns is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. The affected area is cleared of external cladding (siding, lining, etc.).
2. Determine the boundaries of rotten wood, mark them with a chisel or knife.
3. They retreat from the intended boundaries 40 cm in both directions and install screeds. They are necessary so as not to damage the structure during the removal of rotten wood fabric. For screeding, use bars 40 mm thick and 2-3 crowns high. They are fixed on both sides of the wall, on the sides of the damaged area (4 bars in total). Ties are required if a significant part of the crown is to be removed at a time. For small replacements they are rarely used.
4. Cut out the rotten part of the log with an electric or chainsaw. First, a through cut is made on one side of the damaged area, then on the other. The sawn part is removed. For a tighter fit of the insert, notches about 20 cm wide are made along the edges of the opening.
5. The opened lower part of the second crown is cleaned and leveled to a flat state (with a chisel). It and the side walls of the resulting opening are treated with an antiseptic.
6. Roofing material is laid on the foundation in 2 - 3 layers.
7. An insert is made to cover the opening. A section is cut from a log of the same diameter as the logs being repaired. The length should be 1 - 2 mm less than the size of the opening. The insert is treated with an antiseptic.
8. Install the insert into the opening and, if necessary, hammer it in with a sledgehammer.
9. The gaps between the frame and the insert are carefully sealed with moss, tow, and jute.

Using this method, you can replace not only damaged logs, but also the entire lower crown. To do this, parts are gradually cut off from the crown, replacing them with new ones. The process is quite painstaking, but it allows you to do without lifting the log house on jacks.

You can also replace the lower crown with brickwork. In this case, parts of the damaged log are cut out sequentially, and bricks are laid on the mortar in the resulting openings. Gradually, brickwork will replace the entire lower crown.

Crown processing products

Today on the construction market there is a fairly large number of different products for finishing wood and protecting it from negative factors. Experts recommend using the following means:

• drugs. All products have been tested and received certificates from Rospotrebnadzor and the Ministry of Health and Social Development of the Russian Federation. The fire-bioprotective agent of this brand provides comprehensive protection for wood. However, it cannot be used after coating with varnish, drying oil or any other water-repellent composition. The drug belongs to group 2 in terms of fire protection effectiveness according to NPB 251-98. The manufacturer guarantees protection for at least 20 years. The color of the wood does not change after processing. For the best effect, apply the product in 2-3 layers, after drying the previous one for 20-40 minutes.
• The products are produced in Australia. They also have certificates from the Australian Holzforschung Institute. A good option for protecting crowns is Belinka Base. The product penetrates deeply into the wood, protecting it from fungal diseases, beetles, and moisture. Features a high level of protection. It should be applied in two layers; after 12 hours, Tikkurila preparations are produced by the Finnish company. For external wood processing, it is worth using the Tikurilla “Vinha” and “Valti” product line. These products are specially created for unfavorable climatic conditions. The protective film is formed by the preparations “Color Extra” and “Color Satin”. And Aqua Color, Color, and Pohjuster primer penetrate deeply.

When is it necessary to replace the lower crowns?

If a wooden frame house requires major repairs after 50-60 years of operation, then its lower crowns (basement part) may fail much earlier. Accelerated destruction of wood occurs for the following reasons:

1. Rotting as a result of frequent and prolonged direct contact with sedimentary and flood moisture, the release of groundwater, the accumulation of penetrating moisture and condensation.
2. Damage by microorganisms (fungi, mold, bacteria), insects (ants, bark beetles, etc.) and various rodent pests.
3. Destruction under excessive loads.
4. Mechanical damage of various types.

The following factors contribute to the appearance of these destructions:

1. Absence or poor quality waterproofing between the foundation and the plinth, as well as on the outside of the lower part of the wall.
2. An improperly organized drainage system, which causes the accumulation of sedimentary and flood water, as well as moisture formed when snow melts.
3. Lack of foundation ventilation (vents or vents).
4. Violations during construction - use of low-quality wood, incorrect choice of log diameter, use of undried wood, insufficient antiseptic treatment and anti-rot impregnation of wooden elements, incorrect calculation of loads, violation of the rules for laying the lower crowns.

Neomid 430 eco

Neomid 430 eco is a non-washable antiseptic. It is ideal for treating the lower part of a house in difficult conditions. This product is effective, strong, and will provide treated crowns with protection from insects, beetles, fungi, mold and all other types of wood pests for up to 35 years. Neomid 430 eco can also be used to treat wooden surfaces indoors, thanks to its safe composition. But it is worth taking into account that after application this product tints the wood in a greenish tint, which subsequently changes to a brown color. It is available in concentrated form, which allows you to increase the purchased volume almost 10 times by diluting it with water.