How and with what to treat a log bathhouse - rules and methods of treatment

The most popular finishing material for a bathhouse is lining; it is made from aspen, alder, pine, and linden boards are often used. This type of cladding is characterized by high performance characteristics: strength, resistance to moisture, steam, and temperature changes.

In order for the wood used to last as long as possible, it must be coated with special compounds that protect against the formation of rot and deformation.

Processing of a sauna log

The standard method of impregnation with an antiseptic involves working with a brush or spray. Working with a brush is more difficult and takes longer. However, it is indispensable in some cases, for example, when a certain area cannot be properly coated with a sprayer. Every 2-3 hours it is recommended to change the brush to a new one.

Impregnation with a spray gun is considered to be of higher quality and, which is absolutely certain, is carried out much faster.

In some cases, alternative methods of processing wooden structures are appropriate:

1. Method of immersing wood in a container with an antiseptic agent. This approach guarantees impregnation of even the most difficult to reach areas of the structure.
2. The diffuse (dry) method of treating with an antiseptic drug involves applying a paste or powder substance to the surface.

Before you begin to impregnate the log house, it must be cleared of all kinds of blockages. A vacuum cleaner is suitable for this purpose. Then the surface must be thoroughly dried.

The compositions are applied in the following sequence:

• means for protection against fungus and moisture;
• impregnation against insect pests;
• fire-fighting agent (fire retardant).

After finishing surface treatment with antiseptics, it is recommended to apply a gel or primer. However, we must not forget about the basic rule: the material must be breathable.

If everything is done in accordance with the technology, then subsequent impregnations are done no earlier than three years later. Some compositions last up to five years.

Processing the log from the inside

With prolonged and regular exposure to steam and moisture, which the operation of baths implies, the functionality and appearance of wood may suffer. Without the use of special protective equipment, the service life of the log house is reduced. Wood is best protected from harmful effects by special oils for baths and saunas. These are products based on natural ingredients - vegetable fats, wax, lecithin, safe driers, without toxic compounds.

Oils are absorbed into the wood structure, strengthening it and protecting it from steam and water. As a result, the surface does not allow moisture to pass through, repels grease and dirt, and becomes resistant to destruction by detergents. Oils have antiseptic and fungicidal properties, so mold and mildew will not settle on the material. Some brands, for example "Martyanov", additionally include additives against blueing of wood.

The advantages of oil mixtures are obvious:

• Suitable for any type of wood;
• protection even from extreme temperatures;
• improvement of appearance, emphasizing wood grain;
• penetration into hard-to-reach places.

Wood oil for baths and saunas “Martyanov” It is recommended to treat the inside of the log houses of baths and saunas with oils every 5 years, which will preserve the properties of the wood for many years.

Covering antiseptic for wood ADLER Pullex Renovier-Grund

from 2,221.00 rub. select Options

Classification of wood protection products:

To correctly select an antiseptic drug, it is important to have an idea of ​​their types.

There are several types of antiseptics:

1. Easily washable . Such impregnations contain metal salts, which are gradually washed out under the influence of moisture. Such impregnations are best suited for dressing rooms and rest rooms, but not for steam rooms.
2. Hard to wash out . These impregnations contain natural and synthetic oils. Suitable for external processing of log houses.
3. Short action . Such impregnations are quickly absorbed and are best adapted to high humidity and high temperatures. In addition to mold, short-acting impregnations protect against rot and bark beetles.

Some impregnations are available in a colorless version, but most formulations contain pigments that give the material a given shade. The use of bright impregnations makes the work easier, since the treated areas become visible and there is less chance of missing some area.

Effective methods of control

The process of removing fungus is labor-intensive. Various methods and means are used to combat mold. Stores offer a large number of chemical compounds that, when carefully processed, can destroy fungal spores.

Mold cleaning

Chemicals

The fight after detection is carried out using:

1. Substances containing chlorine. The coating is cleaned of fungus. Some substances bleach wood materials. “Senezh” and “Rime” are considered effective. The internal surface of the bathhouse is carefully processed. In case of residual manifestations of mold, the procedure is repeated until the enemy completely disappears.
2. Sulfur. The substance is ignited in a room that is previously protected from oxygen. The consumption of sulfur used is 200 grams of substance per 100 m3. To ensure that the cleansing process is safe for those around the building, the substance used is placed in a metal container. After igniting the substance, the room must be left, since sulfur vapors are harmful to humans. Returning to the steam room is permissible after nine hours. Quicklime is used to purify the air.
3. Iron sulfate. The substance is mixed with table salt and potassium alum. Proportion in grams: 25:20:45. The mixture is poured with a liter of water. The composition destroys mold. After a month, the treatment should be repeated.
4. Specialized products sold in hardware stores. The most effective are Metas-bio, Ceresit, Dufa, Anti-mold, Acrylit.

Mechanical cleaning is also acceptable. To eliminate fungus, you can use a spatula, sandpaper, drill brush, grinder, or iron brush. Before processing, you need to check the degree of decay of the wood. If there is a superficial lesion, treatment will help. If the wood is severely rotten, then mechanical cleaning will be useless.

Folk remedies

Folk remedies made from available substances in everyday life of every housewife help to fight the manifestation of mold:

1. Vinegar. The smell is acrid, unpleasant. The substance is weakly acidic, but at the same time effectively destroys mold spores. Processing does not take much time.
2. Soda. Before treatment, the substance is mixed with water to eliminate the risk of scratches. Baking soda is odorless and does not form harmful fumes at high temperatures. Does not require rinsing after treatment. The remaining substance has an antibacterial effect and prevents the re-formation of fungus.
3. White. The product is effective only on a small number of affected areas. Suitable for use on surfaces made of wood, brick, and concrete.
4. Hydrogen peroxide. The substance is effective even with extensive mold growth. Peroxide is able to remove fungus and protect the surface from re-formation of infection. The substance does not emit harmful fumes.

Antiseptics

Impregnations and antiseptics intended for treating bath surfaces differ in their properties and method of application. Some types are used for application to the external surface. Protect from moisture, ultraviolet radiation, dust, wind. Others are intended for interior treatment of premises. Resistant to high temperatures and high humidity. Antiseptics also protect against fire. The components contained inside the product reduce the risk of wood fire.

Special impregnations for baths can withstand high humidity and excessive temperature. The composition protects the wood from darkening. Impregnation promotes the formation of a water-repellent layer that protects against dirt. The product does not interfere with air penetration.

The solution used for treatment must be thoroughly mixed. Clean the surface and treat with the compound. When processing, you should use a brush, roller, or spray. The mixture must be applied evenly. The procedure is repeated twice with an interval of sixty minutes.

There are different types of antiseptics:

1. Soluble in water. Dry powders, aqueous solutions. Safe for humans.
2. Water repellent. Deep penetration. They have a strong odor. Can be applied in a well-ventilated place.
3. Oil based. It is allowed to process wood during production and the preparatory stage of installation. Create a protective layer.
4. Contains a solvent. Chemically aggressive substances that are harmful to health.
5. Mixed formulations. Use according to instructions.

Technology for applying protective compounds

For the treatment to be effective, protective compounds are applied to the logs even before they are assembled into a log house.
After the log house is assembled, re-processing is carried out. Processing during the assembly process

Table. Instructions for treating bath walls

It is recommended to start processing the log house as soon as the box is assembled. Some masters combine these two processes.

Top best products for external wood treatment

What and how to paint the outside of a log house

Painting is the final stage of processing a log house outside and inside. Today there are a lot of different paints and varnishes. For exterior painting, choose rough and durable compounds. Let's consider the popular types of funds:

• Glazing transparent varnishes will retain color and emphasize the texture of wood, protect the surface from moisture, mold and rot;
• Opaque topcoat varnishes will help achieve the desired shine and shade, protect against insects, high humidity and ultraviolet radiation;
• Oil paints penetrate deeply into the structure of the log, keeping the surface from moisture and dirt. But they take a long time to dry (two weeks) and lose color over time!;
• Acrylic paints and water-based varnishes are natural, safe products that provide a dense, elastic coating. They protect against moisture, cracking and fungus. Such compositions allow the tree to “breathe”, but are expensive;
• Alkyd varnishes form a hard and smooth surface, retain color for a long time and provide protection from moisture. However, such products do not allow the wood to “breathe,” which over time causes the log to dry out and crack;
• Yacht varnish is suitable for places with high humidity and large amounts of precipitation. This is reliable protection against moisture, which is not affected by weather and temperature changes. This varnish does not fade and prevents yellowing of the wood, but when painted it emits an unpleasant odor;
• Stain is an affordable and cheap way to finish a log house inside and out. It protects against fungus and pests, does not disturb the wood grain and makes the color more saturated. However, stain requires subsequent varnishing;
• Oils and wax are environmentally friendly, safe products that are deeply absorbed into the wood and protect the logs from moisture and dirt. The wax will give the surface a translucent matte shine.

To properly paint a log house, wait until the primer is completely dry. Stir the mixture thoroughly before painting. First, paint is applied in two or three layers. Before applying each new layer, wait until the previous one is completely dry. Use a roller for painting, and a brush for hard-to-reach places, corners and ends.

When using a spray gun, it is not always possible to achieve an even and smooth coating. In addition, there may be unpainted areas. Apply the final coat of paint in a thin layer from top to bottom.

After the paint has completely dried, apply varnish in two or three layers. For an even coating without layering, allow each layer to dry and apply the product in long, even strokes. For decorative coating, you can use only varnish or only paint. However, the use of both means will consolidate the result and enhance the effect, enhance protection and increase the service life of the wood.

If you don’t know which product to choose for treating the inside or outside of your home, contact the MariSrub company for help. The company's craftsmen will help you choose the right materials and will quickly and efficiently process and paint your wooden house or bathhouse!

The process of applying antiseptics and primers to sanded walls

After sanding the walls of the house, you need to treat them both inside and outside. The work is complex and requires material investments. Not everyone has the patience to finish it to the end.

Before applying the main layers, you should pay attention to the caulking of the log house walls. If cracks appear, re-caulk.

To seal cracks, special sealants are produced that cover the caulk and protect it from the harmful effects of the environment. If the caulking was made with natural flax fiber, then it is necessary to protect it from moisture. You can use, for example, Neomid or Remmins sealants. Only after complete caulking around the entire perimeter and its processing can you begin painting the walls.

End finishing

When processing the surface of the log house walls after grinding, you should pay special attention to the ends of the log or timber. Wood capillaries are located from top to bottom for better penetration of liquid to the crown. When sawing, these channels are exposed, and moisture from the environment easily enters them. If you treat the ends with simple sealants or an antiseptic, this will not bring the required result.

Liquid glass treatment works in a similar way, but it contains toxic substances. But it is cheap.

Any of the selected products should be applied in two layers, carefully covering all joints. Before applying the second, the first is allowed to dry.

Wall treatment

The walls are treated in the warm season at above-zero temperatures, immediately after sanding and caulking, immediately after the construction of a house made of profiled timber is completed. Grinding is best done using a grinding tool with a P80 disc. After this, the dust is removed from the logs and the first layer of antiseptic is applied, for example colorless Teknol Aqua 1410-01. Painting should be done with a brush or electric spray gun. Apply primer in two layers.

The next step is to process the walls again using a sanding machine with P220 or 240 discs. After applying the primer, hairiness appears, which is better to remove. Sanding will take a long time and requires expensive and powerful equipment. So, a high-quality cable machine costs from 2,000 rubles. And with high power, sanding a 30 cm wall takes about half an hour. Of course, you can skip this step, since it does not affect the protective characteristics.

The next step is painting with glazing compounds. You can use a covering antiseptic. The compositions must be applied in the same way using a brush or spray bottle.

To save money, instead of glazing compounds, you can use simple acrylic paint for facades. But the wood texture will be hidden. For example, acrylic paint for facades Tikurilla tolerates temperature changes well and has many shades and colors. The cost of this product is from 1,500 per 10 liters.

With high-quality processing and caulking, wooden walls will serve the owners for more than 50 years. But painting needs to be done at least once every 3-4 years. It's nice to be in a wooden house that not only looks good, but also breathes. And this can only be achieved by painting the external walls after sanding with natural and high-quality materials.

If you plan to line the interior of the log house, then you can polish the inside of the bathhouse only with a coarse abrasive. If the walls will not be sheathed with anything, then it is necessary to sand them to perfect smoothness.

It is better to carry out the initial sanding of the walls before the “finished floors” are laid and the ceiling is covered. We carry out the work in the following sequence:

• We remove the rough layer of bark with a grinder with a coarse abrasive or a grinder.
• Using a grinder, we process the groove and corner areas.
• We carry out grinding with fine abrasive material (120).
• We sand the joints of logs and the most inaccessible places by hand. To do this, the abrasive material can be wound on a block. This is a rather labor-intensive, but most effective process.

Upon completion of work on one wall, it is necessary to sweep away the dust, thoroughly vacuum the surface and coat it with an antiseptic. The same process must be repeated after complete sanding.

When starting to apply antiseptics, make sure there are no caulks. Otherwise, they can be sealed with sealants. We carry out the final finishing in this order:

1. We apply a layer of antiseptic composition to protect against fungus and mold.
2. After complete drying, we treat it with a glazing solution to give the room a more aesthetic appearance.
3. We treat the ends with an acrylic moisture-resistant solution. Let it dry and apply a second coat.
4. We coat the surface with a fire retardant to increase fire-resistant characteristics.

Profiled and laminated timber usually does not require additional leveling. It can be sanded with an eccentric machine if it is necessary to remove the top darkened layer. This process will take longer than processing with a grinder, but the result in this case is high-quality.

What are the dangers of fungus formation?

Fungal spores spread an unpleasant odor and spoil wooden finishes. Fungi are also very harmful to health. Hot, humid air helps to expand the pores on the skin, through which toxins and impurities are removed. Along with the release of “garbage,” spores of “black parasites” penetrate into the body.

Household mold often forms in the bathhouse, which is considered less dangerous to humans. When the black type of mold enters the body, it causes the development of:

1. Allergies. The reaction is not limited to mold. The parasite infects the body and intolerance to various irritants occurs. In most cases, a person has no idea what caused the allergy to develop.
2. Diseases of the respiratory system. The respiratory organs are affected faster than other organs. Spores penetrate not only through pores, a person inhales harmful particles along with oxygen.
3. Diseases of the gastrointestinal tract.
4. Oncological neoplasms of benign and malignant nature.

To prevent diseases, one must constantly fight the “black infection”. If signs of fungus are detected, you need to treat the room and ventilate damp areas. If mold is not destroyed at an early stage, the benefits of visiting the steam room will be reduced to zero, and the risk of developing diseases will increase to one hundred percent.

For construction, mold is no less dangerous. If you do not start fighting the fungus, the structure of the building material will be destroyed, and the walls, floor, and ceiling of the bathhouse will begin to rot.

Domestic impregnations

Antiseptic Senezh sauna

Purpose – protection against biological parasites (fungus, woodworms, mold, etc.), as well as hygienic (antimicrobial) prevention. This antiseptic is designed specifically for use in conditions of high temperatures and humidity. Apply with a wide brush, short-haired roller or spray in 2-3 layers.

What is covered are wooden surfaces that are not in contact with humans (walls, ceilings, doors - just places covered with clapboard).

A few words about the use of drying oil. Yes, it is inexpensive and after processing, the lining looks nice, but drying oil, “this is not about a bathhouse.” I'll say it briefly:

Firstly, it practically does not protect the tree from steam.

Secondly, at high temperatures it releases an unpleasant odor and harmful toxins.

So, think a hundred times: whether to use “this oil” in a bath or not.

Another good buy is acrylic varnish for saunas, Evrotex Sauna. The colorless substance is applicable in rooms from temperatures up to 150°C.

"Eurotex Sauna" is an antiseptic that provides a water and dirt-repellent coating to protect against biological influences, as well as antimicrobial prophylaxis. Contains natural wax, which creates a protective film on the surface of the lining that can be washed with acidic and neutral agents without the risk of damage.

Suitable for both new and old (pre-cleaned) boards. Apply with a regular brush or spray in 2-3 layers. What is covered is all wooden surfaces, except bath shelves.

A few words about bleaches for lining. It is used for board surfaces that have become darkened as a result of fungal staining and biological damage. Also effective for “rejuvenating” old wood. Among domestic products, we can recommend Senezh Neo, made on the basis of an oxidizing agent. It is applicable to wood that has not previously been treated with paints and varnishes. The product is odorless and does not affect the natural color of the wood.

In conclusion, I note that you can use different means to work with the lining inside the bathhouse. But I repeat, one condition - they must be created specifically for the bath. There are all sorts of do-it-yourself processing options. If you are sure that it will be useful and safe - go ahead! But know that making the “right” chemical is more difficult than making homemade sausage.

Anecdote about a bathhouse. In ancient China, baths were not divided into women's and men's, but when the population exceeded a billion, everyone realized that this was a mistake.

I hope that the material presented is useful. Finally, as usual: subscribe to the news and introduce your friends to the blog. Good luck and make the right choice for you!

Wisdom Quote: A hot-tempered person will never know the truth.

Useful tips for exterior decoration

Work on the external finishing of a bathhouse made of timber can be done with your own hands. This will make it possible to reduce the expense item during the construction of a bathhouse.

Thus, you will be able to control the processing process yourself, understanding where you need to apply more protective composition and where less.

Important! Before starting to process the outside of the bathhouse, it is necessary to clean the wood from dirt and dust. The timber is first washed, and then allowed to dry.. You can also sand it

Then protective substances are applied to the wood in this order: primer mixture, antiseptics, fire-fighting substances

You can also do sanding. Then protective substances are applied to the wood in this order: primer mixture, antiseptics, fire-fighting substances.

Sections of logs are coated with lime or a similar substance. These manipulations are carried out with the aim of free penetration of vapors into the material along, which is much better than across.

Make sure that no gaps are left when applying protective compounds. In order not to miss the untreated area, it is worth adding color to the antiseptic. After processing, the wood is left to dry.

Internal bath treatment

As a rule, the inside of the steam room is covered with wood, which can ideally be treated with special means. Their advantage is that they can preserve both the appearance of the wood and its useful qualities. But if do-it-yourself treatment is carried out with a low-quality product, it can affect people’s health and cause serious damage to the walls.

The best option is if the materials for processing are made of acrylic. They will not have an unpleasant odor, and can also be diluted well in plain water. In addition, the surface of the wood is quite easy to open with varnish.

There is no need to carry out any preparation work, and the walls themselves, after covering them with such mixtures, will be easy to clean (see also the article How to choose an impregnation for a bathhouse).

The best way to treat a log bathhouse - here are the brands you can choose from:

• "Senezh".
• "Empils".
• "Rogneda".
• Tikkurila.
• Belinka.
• Teknos.

Before applying them to the walls, you need to carefully study their composition, and also, if there are instructions, then the conditions for their use. All mixtures and varnishes on the sales market can be divided into two groups.

To treat the walls of the ceiling of a steam room in a bath, the material used must be made of non-hazardous substances that are highly resistant to temperature and moisture.

To apply to walls, floors, and benches, first of all, paint all the places that a person will touch with open parts of the body, which will protect him from harmful effects on his body.

Choosing paint and varnish materials correctly

In the photo - mixtures for processing

Proper processing of a log bathhouse inside depends on the paint and varnish materials that will be used to produce it. Processing logs without precise knowledge of the properties and composition of the mixtures used.

“Sauna” is a mixture that is necessary if you need to treat a log bathhouse with an antiseptic; the surfaces treated with it form a polymer coating. It does not attract dust and dirt, and also has water-repellent properties and a transparent color.

It effectively destroys bacteria that infect the sauna frame; you just need to treat the wood in a timely manner.

• The Natura mixture also performed well. If you treat the surface of the walls with it, you will preserve the natural color of the wood, although they can be given a different shade by using the Teknomix system. The color of the log can also be made translucent, then the pattern of the wood and its color will be visible.
• The SupiArctic mixture is also intended to protect the sauna frame. In addition, it gives a beautiful shine to bath walls and gives the wood properties to repel dirt.

We process benches and shelves in the bathhouse

paints and varnishes

All surfaces must be treated with special means, because people will touch them. Conventional varnish on the outside of a log creates a film that gets very hot and can cause severe burns if a person comes into contact with it.

When using special substances for painting, even when the steam room is heated to 100 degrees, you can touch its walls without fear of getting burned.

Treated room

Today there are quite a lot of such products on the paint and varnish market.

All of them are mainly oil-based:

1. Sauna Natura (Teknos).
2. Eurotex "Sauna".
3. Supi Laudesuoja (Tikkurila).

You can buy them at almost any hardware store, and their price is quite affordable. Now we will look at how to process a log bathhouse. These mixtures are applied to the wall surface in a special way.

After completing the interior work, the walls of the steam room need to dry. If excess liquid appears on the walls, it can be wiped off with a clean cloth.

Floor treatment

Floor during treatment

But the composition for treating the floor inside the bathhouse is more difficult to find. But in order to maximize the floor’s resistance to steam and moisture, you need to use heat-treated special wood. When using such boards, the floor will swell less from moisture, and there will be additional protection from bacteria, fungi and insects.

Thanks to this, the log house of the bathhouse will last much longer. Basically, such properties appear in the floor covering if it is first opened with varnish; because of this, such wood will help save money when purchasing them.

Processed material

Rules for everyone

1. The choice of protection means depends on what kind of wood the frame is made of.
2. Wood species are moisture resistant and can be coated with a light composition.
3. Rollers and brushes should be changed regularly during use.

Oil-wax for wood ADLER Legno-Hartwachsöl

from 695.00 rub.
Select parameters The resin of trees suitable for making log houses contains resins that contain phytoncides. These substances are natural antiseptics. Thus, nature itself protects such wood from fungus, rot and insect pests.

However, excessive resinity (as in some species of coniferous trees) cannot be considered a positive quality. The fact is that under the influence of high temperatures, the resin transforms into a liquid state and begins to spread. Of all the coniferous tree species, only spruce best meets the requirements for a steam room.

Note! Whatever wood the bathhouse is made of, it cannot be heated before soaking begins.

Folk remedies.

If you don’t have a professional tool for processing logs at hand, you can use proven folk methods. One of the most famous folk remedies is copper sulfate (copper sulfate). Vitriol is affordable and effective. However, copper sulfate is not recommended for indoor use due to its toxicity.

Treatment of a log bathhouse with copper sulfate is carried out using the following tool:

• brushes;
• brushes with stiff bristles;
• rubber gloves, thick clothing, a respirator or gas mask.

Vitriol is applied as follows:

1. The cleaned surface is thoroughly dried.
2. Vitriol is applied to a wooden surface and rubbed well into it.
3. After drying the material, you need to apply another 1 to 4 layers of copper sulfate.

The lower crown of the bath

The lower crown of the log house is most susceptible to rotting

The lower crown of the bathhouse is most susceptible to moisture. Therefore, it often rots very quickly. The entire frame is still in excellent condition, but it has to be replaced. What to do?

First, let's determine why the lower crown of the bathhouse rots very quickly. The causes of rotting must be determined in order to take a number of protective measures even when assembling a new log house.

The healthy condition of the lower crown is influenced by the following constructive measures when building a wooden house or bathhouse, which must be done without errors:

1. a waterproofing layer of roofing felt on the surface of the concrete foundation in front of the brickwork of the base. This layer of waterproofing prevents moisture from rising from below and absorbing it into the brick material. Wet brick is not the best basis for the lower log of a log house.
2. the second waterproofing layer of roofing felt is placed on the upper level of the brickwork of the base. It is the roofing felt that comes into contact with the wood of the lower crown of the log house. This contact must be made correctly.
3. vents in a brick base or concrete foundation in order to provide natural ventilation in the underground.
4. to prevent rainwater from getting in and stagnating on the roofing felt (see point 2), it is necessary to make a protective flashing. Its design can be different depending on the chosen material. You can simply cover the joint with a flashing board around the perimeter of the log house. You can make a drain from galvanized steel or buy it ready-made and install it so that it covers the joint and, at the same time, protects the basement part of the bathhouse from rain due to a slight offset from the outer edge of the brickwork. You can make a screed with a slope from cement-sand mortar along the upper edge of the base and stick soft tiles along it.
5. Treat the lower rims with protective compounds in several layers

The absence of any of the above measures leads to rapid rotting of the casing.

The best way to avoid replacing the lower crowns is to make them from larch. Larch has the ability to harden (turn to stone) even more in the presence of moisture. It is not susceptible to fungi.

If it is not possible to get larch logs and in your region only pine is used for log houses, then you can compromise and find at least a larch board. By placing it under the lower crown, you can solve the problem of replacing the lower crowns in the same way if there were a pair of lower logs made of larch. The option is quite generous in monetary terms.

If you can’t get larch boards, then oak grows everywhere. Oak boards are a good alternative to deciduous boards. In addition, it is easier to replace the board than the lower crown.

Regarding the second point of protective measures: since the waterproofing from the roofing felt layer has a horizontal surface on which the lower log is laid, it is natural that water can stand here in puddles. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure that the surface of the roofing material is not horizontal, but has a slight slope to the outer sides to allow water to flow to the ground.

It's very easy to do:

1. cut narrow strips of roofing felt approximately 5 cm wide
2. put them 3-4 pieces together
3. lay these roofing felt strips in the middle of the width of the plinth (or foundation)
4. on top of them, place a layer of roofing felt slightly wider than the width of the plinth. (Usually a meter-wide roll of roofing felt is cut in half, resulting in a width of 500 mm, which is quite enough for waterproofing along the plinth (or foundation).

These additional soft “pads” will give you the following benefits:

1. a soft “lining” will close the gaps that have formed between the log and the surface of the plinth due to unevenness of the lower surface of the log itself. In a normal situation, they are either left uncovered and the floor is raised above this joint so that it ends up underground. Or they are plugged with tow, but always from the outside; the joint is sealed with some kind of elastic sealant to prevent the tow from getting wet. This option is not entirely reliable. Better tightness is achieved through a soft “gasket”
2. since in the middle it will be higher due to 5 layers of roofing material (4 narrow strips and 1 layer of a wide main strip), then the surface of the waterproofing layer will have a slope for water to drain from its surface.

Even with this design of roofing felt waterproofing, it is necessary to cover the lower crown and the upper part of the base with a galvanized or painted steel drain to prevent any moisture from getting under the lower log (see paragraph 4 of protective measures).

Preparatory stage: surface grinding

Before treating wooden walls with protective compounds, as noted earlier, they are sanded. This is done in order to remove the worn, mechanically damaged top layer.

The abrasive blade of the tool cuts off several millimeters of the wood layer

This is a mandatory procedure, as a result of which it is possible to cut off the porous layer of wood saturated with moisture. If it is not removed, it will prevent the penetration of protective compounds into the wood. And the air that is in the pores will not allow you to evenly cover the wood with varnish or paint - bubbles will appear on its surface.

Sanding of logs is carried out in stages:

1. First, the surface is cleaned of large loose particles and bark, if any remains, using a disk brush with metal bristles.
2. Then the areas near the junction of the two crowns are polished. This part of the work has to be done manually, since the joint is difficult to access. You can use the tool at low speeds and a sandpaper attachment.
3. At the final stage, the front surface of the log is polished. The tool should operate at medium speed. The diameter of the abrasive disc should not exceed 15 cm. It is necessary to carefully process the surface of the wood, cutting off a layer of no more than 2 mm.

Sanding is a dusty process, so work must be done using personal protective equipment