Assembling a door frame is a responsible task, the quality of which determines the strength of the entire structure and the maximum load that the doors can withstand. Many people wonder: how to assemble a door frame, whether it is possible to assemble and install it yourself, without experience or contacting specialists. The answer is simple: yes, it is possible if you consistently apply the tips and steps to properly assemble and install the box.
Initially, it may mistakenly seem that assembling the box is a fairly simple task, but this is a mistaken opinion. Of course, some errors in calculations when assembling the box can be hidden with platbands, but this will have a detrimental effect on the service life of the entire structure. It should be remembered that the slightest miscalculations, small gaps and cracks can negatively affect the service life of the entire structure, while correcting the error after all the work has been completed is no longer acceptable and you will have to re-dismantle it and purchase new materials. Before you begin installing the box, you should study all the steps in detail and follow the advice of experts. With this article, installing the box yourself will become easier and better.
Preparatory stage
In order for the assembly of the door frame of the wall to be carried out with high quality, it is necessary to carry out all the preparatory work correctly. This stage includes taking correct and complete measurements, choosing the type of door, taking into account the characteristics of the room (kitchen, bathroom or bedroom). Also, you should think in advance about the required type of box; it can be a U-shaped box (without a threshold) or a closed rectangle (with a threshold). In this article we will look at the most common type and installation option for a swing door frame. A sliding door will require a radically different design, the same applies to installing an accordion door, which may not require a frame at all.
Measuring the opening
Measuring the doorway to install the frame and door may initially seem standard and easy. But even in this matter, it should be clearly understood that the installation of the door frame of the opening will be problem-free, provided that all measurements are taken correctly. Before you start measuring, you should know that measurements of all quantities (depth, height, width) are carried out at several points. This is due to the fact that perfectly symmetrical and even doorways are extremely rare; differences can reach several centimeters. For correct measurements, you should adhere to the following rules:
- The opening height is measured at three points, the smallest value being taken as the basis;
- The opening width must be measured at 3-4 points, recording the smallest value;
- The depth of the opening should be measured at six points (three on each side), recording the largest value.
Of course, all measurements should be made only after the old door frame has been dismantled and the opening has been completely cleaned. You should approach the issue of measuring the opening responsibly, because it may be difficult to install the door frame in the future. All elements of the box will fit each other perfectly only if the correct measurements are taken.
Choosing the right box size
Before you figure out how to assemble the door frame, you should write down all the measurements of the opening. With this data, you can already contact construction stores to purchase a box. Of course, before ordering the frame itself, you should already know what type of door will be installed: classic swing, sliding compartment or accordion. For a swing door you will need a reinforced classic frame, which should be selected precisely according to the recorded measurements of the opening. Now manufacturers of door frames for swing doors use several standard sizes, the main differences are in the width of the wood (the height and width of the opening is adjusted by cutting) and in the type of material (wood, PVC or MDF). Also, if there is a workshop in the city, you can order a frame with the exact dimensions of the opening - this will greatly facilitate the process of preparing for direct installation, because you will not have to adjust the height and length of the frame to fit the door leaf of the structure and the dimensions of the wall, as well as cut the joints.
Door jamb: measurements and choice of material
Let's start with the fact that you need to choose the right timber (lut) in the store. It should match the width of the wall into which the box is inserted. Luts come in different types, with different coatings and in all suitable sizes.
The materials from which the loot is made also vary:
- MDF;
- solid wood;
- metal.
If you buy it in the same place as the door, you will be offered an identical loot, which will be no different from the door. Door manufacturers often launch the production of wooden blanks for door frames. For the front door, it is better to choose a frame made of solid oak - it is more reliable and durable than MDF.
Before you start making the door frame, you need to take measurements
If suddenly the width of your wall is not standard and none of the proposed options are suitable, take a beam slightly narrower than the wall, and the remaining width can be compensated for by a good-quality board.
When the materials are ready and the tools are available, we move on to making the box.
Making a box begins with taking measurements. If desired, you can draw a drawing. Measurements are taken after the old frame has been dismantled and the opening has been repaired - the unevenness in the wall has been puttied. First you need to take measurements of the height of the future structure and the width of the doorway. It is not advisable to exceed the size of the loot, as this will make it more difficult to file off the extra pieces.
Door frame assembly
To install the door frame, you will need to initially assemble it correctly. Having all the necessary tools and material for the box, you should start with the correct drawing and marks for cutting. In advance, you will need to not only cut and assemble the entire structure of the box, but also accurately mark and calculate the locations for the hinges. Door hinges can be either mortise (you need to make indentations with a chisel) or overhead. To calculate and install the hinges, it is necessary to measure 20 cm from the top and bottom of the side where the door will be attached. It is necessary to carefully select the stand for mounting the hinges, keeping in mind the side of the door opening.
Assembling an MDF or wood box involves several types, depending on the presence of a threshold, the angle of the joints (45 or 90) and the availability of ready-made tenons for more practical assembly. The following video shows how to properly assemble a door frame:
90 degree angle
You can easily assemble a door frame with your own hands, step by step instructions, using assembly at an angle of 90 degrees. It becomes obvious that this type of box assembly involves cutting the racks separately to suit the height and width of the opening. This assembly option is extremely easy for a beginner to do with his own hands, because all cutting is carried out without the use of a miter box and does not require special skills. It is important to remember that even with the elementary assembly of a 90-degree frame, you should not rush; it is better to double-check the calculations and pencil marks on the posts several times before starting cutting, be sure to remember the 3 mm gap between the frame and the door. After the racks have been cut, they should be joined into a single structure. Self-tapping screws tighten the entire box, forming a box ready for installation. For this type of assembly, it will be quite enough to use two self-tapping screws at each mounting point of the racks. It should be noted that before screwing in the screws (you should step back 1 cm from the edges), you should carefully drill holes in the intended places so that the screws go in smoothly and without deviations. In general, it is the assembly of the door frame at 90 degrees that is the simplest, but its main drawback is the final appearance, which may not appeal to everyone. If everything is done correctly, installing the door leaf will be as simple as possible, just by hanging it on the hinges.
At an angle of 45 degrees
Considering all the methods for assembling the door frame of interior doors, the most popular is assembly at an angle of 45 degrees. This assembly of the box is a little more complicated compared to the 90-degree option: here you will have to use a miter box to adjust all the joints at an angle of 45 degrees. Assembling the box at 45 degree angles is the most common, because it creates the best appearance of the box, while at the same time being a strong option for assembling the structure. The difference from the 90-degree assembly is that the two upper corners and two lower ones (if the assembly is a rectangular box) are filed at 45 degrees, all elements are clearly connected with self-tapping screws. When calculating and drawing cutting lines, you should definitely remember about the gap between the frame and the door leaf - it should be equal to 1 cm. Assembling the frame at 45 degrees also differs in that the screws will tighten the frame not in a straight line, but at an angle.
Tenon assembly
There is another device for the door frame of an interior door, which involves assembly according to the tongue-and-groove principle. It will be extremely difficult for an inexperienced craftsman to create a reliable and correctly sized tenon fastening from the bars. Therefore, this method of assembling a box is suitable for experienced craftsmen or those who have received a ready-made box with a tongue-and-groove fastening to order. Thanks to the complex fastening, this type of tenon door frame assembly is the most durable and reliable.
Assembling a box with a threshold
Those who have planned a wall doorway with a threshold need to immediately assemble a rectangular solid box. It differs from the U-shaped one in that the bottom will also have to be adjusted and tightened with self-tapping screws. With modern renovations, most people are gradually abandoning boxes with thresholds, but they cannot be avoided when installing a door in a bathroom or toilet.
From “old-fashioned” schemes to modern ideas
So, it is advisable to make the height of the entrance bath door no more than 160-170 cm, so that precious heat does not escape into the street. The optimal distance between the jambs is 60-70 cm, and the width of the door is made of such dimensions that will prevent heat loss as much as possible. It is advisable to make the doors to the bathhouse with your own hands single-leaf - so that they open outward.
In total, there are two doors in the bathhouse - one at the entrance to the bathhouse, the second to the steam room. But it happens that the dressing room is also a washing room, especially when the bathhouse, due to budget limitations, was built to be quite miniature. By the way, if glass is needed in the door, then you can only take it special - tempered. Further, the door itself should not turn out to be too voluminous or massive - its main task is thermal insulation, and not protecting something valuable from thieves. Yes, it won’t be difficult to break one from the outside - but even in the event of a fire, vacationers themselves can easily demolish it. And it’s hard to imagine what would happen if a person choking on smoke tried to open a stuck door to a bathhouse, which was made using the latest technology with maximum protection.
The ideal material for making a bath door is wood. It was from this that everything was always made in the old Russian baths - because it perfectly withstands all changes in air humidity and temperature. The handle for the door to the bathhouse can also be made exclusively from wood - otherwise you can get seriously burned. And, by the way, plastic to wood in this case is not the best alternative. But it is advisable to treat the inner surface of the door with antiseptics - the same as for the walls of the bathhouse. But not with drying oil or varnish - all of them will release toxic substances into the hot and humid air that those who are taking bath procedures at that moment breathe.
The most proven option for a do-it-yourself bathhouse door is tightly knit linden or aspen boards, always in one layer
As soon as the base is ready, the door needs to be insulated - this is important. Moreover, the insulation must be thorough - from cotton wool, tow, polystyrene foam, felt and mineral fiber
The outside will be covered with boards or dermantin, or, in extreme cases, with simple plywood. But under no circumstances should the bath door be heated or deformed by humid and hot air.
Removing the old interior door frame
Direct work on replacing the door frame and door begins with dismantling work. There are two ways to dismantle a door frame - dismantling while preserving the integrity of the old frame (for example, if it is needed for installation in a country house) and without preservation. In general, the process of dismantling one box, with the correct distribution of forces and skills, will take no more than half an hour.
No saving
The easiest option for dismantling the old box is the option without saving it. In this case, you do not need to carefully pull out all the nails; you just need to make a few cuts in the box and use an ax and hammer to break the load-bearing side parts. Of course, dismantling will begin with the platbands; in order to remove them carefully and quickly, you will need to carefully drive an ax between the platband and the frame using a hammer. The resulting doorway should be cleaned and it will be completely ready for installation. The main thing to remember is that when dismantling the box without saving it, you should not use too much effort, because you can damage the brick and plaster, which will increase the installation time for a new one.
Saving
sometimes it is necessary to very carefully dismantle the old box while maintaining its structure. This may be due to the need to further use the finished frame and door in other openings, or to the presence of a fragile wall (old brick and plaster can crumble during hard dismantling). The dismantling and preservation option, of course, requires much more effort. You will also need to carefully remove the platbands using an ax and hammer. Then, you should study the method of installing the old door frame: it can be attached with nails directly to the wall or through bars (often found in old houses where there were too large gaps). Using a nail puller, you should pick up and remove all the nails (and sometimes these can be anchors, screws), and then just carefully remove the box. In general, dismantling with preservation is a rather delicate job that can be done either with your own hands or by contacting specialists.
Insulation
If the entrance door to the bathhouse is made of boards or lining, then it must be insulated to reduce heat loss during heating. For insulation, felt, batting or polyethylene foam is used. The material must be measured according to the size of the door, cut and secured to the canvas with furniture staples or nails, leaving free edges at least 5 cm wide.
Leatherette is good for door trim. The material is cut in such a way that the edges can be folded under the insulation by 2-2.5 cm. To ensure that the upholstery lies flat, the material must be fastened from the middle. The fasteners are decorative upholstery nails with large heads. To form a convex pattern between the nails, you need to pull the line tight.
Along the perimeter of the door you need to attach leatherette rollers, inside of which there is insulation. The edges of the rollers are nailed to the door with decorative nails in small increments (5-10 cm). The seam can be made decorative: hammer nails tightly, in 2 rows, in a zigzag, etc.
Door frame installation
Before proceeding with the actual installation of the box, you will need to check the correctness of the assembled box. To do this, you will need to check the correct geometry of the assembled box; the diagonals must be the same. The surface of the opening must also be smooth, all irregularities must be eliminated. Only then can you begin installing the interior door frame with your own hands, according to the chosen method.
Step-by-step instructions for installing an interior door frame with your own hands
Depending on the chosen installation option, there is a ready-made procedure for installing the box. First, the box is placed against the opening, then wooden wedges are used to secure it (or mounting plates). Secondly, using a level, the evenness of the installed box is checked and, if necessary, correction is made. Then the box is fixed to the wall using anchor bolts, self-tapping screws or a special mounting kit with plates. The hole between the wall and the frame will only need to be filled with mounting foam on the open parts and decorated with platbands. That's all there is to it, after which all that remains is to hang the door, which should already have holes for the hinges and door lock. Interior doors are installed in exactly this order, but it is necessary to examine in more detail some installation options using self-tapping screws and mounting plates.
Fastening the box with mounting plates
A fairly simple method of fastening a door frame is used using a special fastening kit. This option for installing the box can be done even without the use of polyurethane foam: it is enough to correctly install the box in a level and securely fasten it to special plates. Before installing the box in the opening, special plates are installed, which must initially be attached to the wall. In most cases, these mounting plates will require small new holes in the wall to which the plate is attached. The holes themselves with the plates can then be easily hidden using putty and finishing material. In general, this method requires certain skills, but at the same time it is the most modern.
Fastening with self-tapping screws and dowels
A more classic option for fastening the box is to use anchors or self-tapping screws with dowels. The procedure for this installation is as follows: the box is applied to the opening and fixed (bars or wedges will help). Then, through holes are drilled in the box, into which dowels are driven and a self-tapping screw or anchor screw is screwed. These holes, for aesthetics, should be made in several places; some can be hidden where the hinges and one self-tapping screw will be attached to the recess where the door lock tongue will go. These holes are enough for the box to fit into the opening as firmly as possible and be as reliable as possible. This method is notable for the fact that now there is no need to repaint or hide the box fastenings themselves with plugs, because they will be hidden under the fittings. To complete this installation and give greater strength, the hole between the box and the wall should be sealed with polyurethane foam by hand. At the final stage, you will need to install the trim and the finished door leaf of the structure.
Correct installation
To properly close the door, the walls on both sides of the doorway must be one plane, without deviations or curvatures. In reality this rarely happens. Telescopic platbands allow you to make adjustments - push the door frame inside the opening or install it flush with the wall, and outwardly the difference will be invisible. In fact, the platband of a telescopic door frame is nothing more than a corner that moves along the groove of the frame.
By varying the depth of insertion of the platband into the groove, it is possible to achieve a more or less tight fit to the wall. The extension is also connected to the box using the tongue-and-groove method and is approximately 8-15 cm wide.
Typically, telescopic door frames are made from wood materials: wood itself or MDF. But there are also models of such boxes made of aluminum and even steel. Aluminum telescopic boxes are very practical. They are characterized by great durability, do not dry out or warp, and the aluminum surface can be painted in any color or imitate the texture of wood.
Features of installing a box with a threshold
There is a significant difference between installing framed interior doors for bathrooms: here frames must be installed together with thresholds. This type of box is different in that errors made during assembly cannot be eliminated during installation, so before installing the box with the threshold, be sure to check that the diagonal dimensions match. The installation of this box follows the same principle and procedure as described above. The only clarification: you will have to fix the threshold. It is on the threshold of the box that there will be constant pressure both from the box and from the residents of the house. It can be secured to the floor using self-tapping screws and dowels, and the attachment point can be hidden using a plug.
What it is
The term "telescopic" is usually applied to objects consisting of several parts that extend from each other. A door frame of this type, in accordance with the definition, is assembled from several slats, only they do not slide out from each other, but snap into place using a system of grooves, forming a single whole. Thanks to this connection, the parts of the block are easily adjusted, and the end result gives a perfect rectangular shape. Today, two types of telescopic block are produced:
- The design of the box and platband as a single whole;
- Two separate components - a box and a platband, connected by grooves.
Expert advice
- It is important to know that the main load of the frame comes from the side of the hinges, where the massive door is attached. That is why the planks, threshold, and other parts of the frame do not need to be drilled and secured with anchor screws; just three fastening points are enough: two under the hinges and one under the door tongue.
- Immediately after installing the box, you should check its strength and stability; it must stand firmly on the mounting plates or screws. In this case, the mounting foam will provide not so much durability as noise and waterproofing of the room; it will definitely not be able to eliminate the backlash of the box after installation.
- Any defects from the aesthetic side can always be eliminated with the help of platbands, flexible thresholds or applying additional paint to the box. When installing and assembling, the most important thing is durability and precision, while chips and scratches can be easily repaired.
- When installing a box in a concrete wall or brick, you will need a hammer drill or impact drill; a conventional drill will not be able to achieve the proper result when installing the box on screws or plates.
- In new buildings, it is recommended to use special kits for installing door frames. They consist of several metal plates and screws with dowels that are ideal for flush mounting and simple, lightweight installation.
- At the stage of cutting the box before assembly, it is recommended to use a hacksaw for metal, because it will protect against scratches and misfires, compared to a hacksaw for wood.
- When miscalculating, if the box turns out to be much smaller than the size of the opening, you should use a wooden extension.
- For greater adhesion of the polyurethane foam, it is recommended to wet the wall a little before applying it.
- We should not forget about small gaps in the size of the frame and door in the lower part, up to 1 cm. This is necessary so that the ventilation between rooms and spaces functions well, special attention to the kitchen.
Warming the bath from the cold
Insulation from the inside is a mandatory aspect when building a bathhouse. This step will help reduce heating costs, maintain the desired temperature and speed up the heating of the room.
Thermal insulation materials are usually divided into two types:
- organic origin;
- inorganic origin.
Not only the thermal insulation and moisture-resistant characteristics of the insulating material, but also its environmental friendliness are considered a very important factor. In order to prevent heat from escaping outside, the base is often sheathed with foam boards, secured with glue. To insulate the walls of the bathhouse, lathing made of bars is used. If necessary, insulation is sometimes placed not in one layer, but in several at once. Sheathing with clapboard is the last stage, in which a small gap is left to prevent the material from rotting.
For what purposes is the Euroblock used?
People who live in houses with fairly thick and dense walls know firsthand about the problems of aesthetically designing a doorway. In order for the doorway to look high quality and beautiful, you will have to carry out additional procedures for finishing and decorating the walls.
In order not to have to worry about designing the slopes, repairmen resort to the simplest procedure and install the slopes using a box. This looks very beautiful and aesthetically pleasing, and also allows you to preserve the appearance of the door itself for as long as possible.
The telescopic block does not require additional costs and installation skills. It is enough to carry out basic installation procedures.
Decorative processing
Since you need to make the door frame with your own hands not only durable, but also beautiful, you need to take care of the decorative processing of the material. However, before this, it is recommended to carry out additional manipulations, especially if we are talking about wood. It is necessary to provide it with proper protection from moisture, fungus and insects. To extend its service life, the wood is coated with a layer of special impregnation.
Next, you can begin applying the coating. The most common option is painting. This is usually done after the box has been installed. The color matches the canvas.
It is necessary to leave a small gap between the door and the frame in advance. This is done so that the elements do not rub against each other after painting, since after processing a couple of millimeters will be added to the dimensions of the product.
The metal is coated with regular paint or spray enamel. Wood can also be simply painted, but to preserve the design it is better to use stain and then cover everything with varnish.