DIY varnish for decorative plaster: types, composition, application technology

The decorative coating is applied to the walls, has dried and is already pleasing to the owner’s eye. But there’s clearly a little missing – the finishing touch. This “smear” is a varnish for decorative plaster, which gives the coating material, along with shine, additional protection from mechanical, chemical, biological, temperature and ultraviolet influences, strength and durability. How to choose the right mixture, glaze a wall, and repair the varnish coating yourself, read on.

Why do you need to varnish plaster?

The surface of decorative plaster, not covered with varnish, wax or paint, has a rough texture with numerous pores. It scatters incident light and breathes, absorbing fumes, odors and fine substances contained in the air through its pores. The exposed surface of the plaster is susceptible to abrasion and scratches. Thin relief protrusions can chip under mechanical stress. Wall varnish creates a durable transparent protective film that fits the texture protrusions, protects the plaster coating from external influences and gives the surface a matte or mirror finish. The plaster solution already contains additives that increase the resistance of the coating to UV rays. However, additional protection will not be superfluous. The glaze material, protecting against ultraviolet radiation, contributes to the long-term preservation of the brightness and richness of the color of the decorative coating. The bactericidal substances contained in it become the first impenetrable antiseptic barrier for fungal and mold spores.

Atlant M

The varnish must meet the following requirements:

dry quickly;
give a durable film;
the film must be flexible;
have as much shine as possible;
the shine should last a long time and not be afraid of atmospheric influences.

Below are recipes for some varnishes.

Aniline varnish. Dissolve shellac in alcohol and add aniline paint, soluble in alcohol. The item to be varnished must be heated.

Advantages, disadvantages and useful properties

The varnish layer applied to the decorative coating demonstrates the following advantages:

increases the strength of the plaster coating and resistance to scratching, abrasion, and impact;
fixes the color of the finish, preventing fading or changes in quality due to sun rays or other reasons;
makes it possible to wash and clean walls with detergents;
relatively high strength;
easily evenly lays on flat and embossed surfaces;
easily removed with solvents;
Water-based compositions are environmentally friendly and harmless.

Minuses:

the total cost of finishing increases;
the damaged area cannot be easily repaired without being noticed.

Plaster varnish allows you to wash and clean walls with brushes. It is an independent decorative product if it is tinted, mother of pearl, metal dust or glitter are added.

What varnish to coat decorative plaster with?

Types of paints and varnishes are divided according to purpose, base material, and decorative effect obtained as a result of application. Of course, you can use any composition to obtain a varnish coating, but substances that emit harmful fumes when applied and heated are not suitable for decorative plaster indoors. You should choose, knowing the basis of the varnish composition and the conditions under which it will be used.

Acrylic lacquer

The basis of this type of varnish mixture is acrylic resins, or rather, their aqueous dispersion. A milky, water-based liquid that is not transparent, has a homogeneous composition, and contains stabilizing additives. A quick-drying varnish composition applied to the plaster dries to form a durable, transparent, non-yellowing film. Total time to gain strength is 2 weeks.

The composition is odorless and toxic, therefore suitable for residential premises. Available in one- and two-component versions with decorative effects: from high-gloss to matte.

Advantages:

does not burn;
has no smell;
does not turn yellow over time;
easy to tint;
environmentally friendly;
easy to apply.

copal species

Required ingredients:

soft, light-colored copal (1 dose);
turpentine (2 doses);
camphor (3%).

The third element is needed to give the varnish good elasticity. This composition is placed in three quarters of the bottle. The bottle is thoroughly corked and kept in a warm place, for example, near a radiator. The bottle needs to be shaken periodically. You should get a high-quality solution from all components. It settles and filters. Cotton wool serves as a filter here. If the resulting varnish is not transparent enough, concentrate the bottle in a water bath for 10-20 minutes.

How to prepare the surface for glazing compounds

New plaster must be completely dry before glazing. Dust and lumps remaining after processing are removed from it. Glazing does not require preliminary priming. However, for better adhesion and reducing the consumption of expensive materials, it is possible to coat the plaster with 2 layers of primer with the same base as varnish. If the plaster coating has an old varnish coating, it is removed with special compounds. Surfaces coated with water-dispersed and alkyd paints are cleaned and treated with sandpaper to increase adhesion (after which the resulting dust is removed).

Parquet coating with special means

Parquet, parquet and floor boards are made of wood, which is susceptible to the negative effects of water, street dirt, mold, fungi, and abrasive loads. To protect against all these factors, special products are applied to the surface of the parquet, which can be combined into 5 main groups.

Primers and impregnations

They contain antiseptic, biocidal, fire retardant and tinting additives that protect the wood from mold, wood-boring beetles, fire, and also give a certain shade. For the latter, stains and drying oils, widely known in the post-Soviet space, are also used.

Primers significantly reduce the consumption of base material. Often, instead of impregnating compositions, a base varnish is used, diluted with a solvent in the ratio indicated on the product label (20:80, 40:60, etc.).

Oils

They are rubbed into the wood with a hard brush, making it resistant to water and dirt, but do not protect against abrasion and impact loads.

Oils are chosen by those who care about the safety of their family and prefer to enjoy the touch of warm natural wood.

Waxes

Carnauba, candelilla and beeswax are applied to the surface with rubbing strokes, creating a moisture-resistant film that is not resistant to impacts and significant foot traffic.

The coating must be renewed periodically.

Oils with hard waxes

The parquet surface is treated using Scotch-Brite, a silicone spatula or a soft cloth. The special composition makes it possible not only to saturate the top layer of wood by 2-5 mm, but also to create a thin layer of wax film on the surface.

This coating perfectly protects the parquet from pests, mold, water and other harmful factors, and does not crack or peel over time.

Lucky

Varnishes are recognized as the best and most practical means of protecting wood from negative factors.

Thanks to their protection, dirt and dust do not eat into the structure of the parquet plank, and the appearance of the floor remains in its original condition for many decades, subject to proper care. The disadvantage of this type of finishing coating is that minor damage is difficult to restore.

Glazing tool

To coat decorative plaster with a varnish mixture, use:

rollers with rounded edges (the best tool for acrylic mixture);
paint brushes;
sponge;
spray gun;
masking tape to protect nearby structures and sections of walls;
pieces of fabric.

To prevent the tool used for glazing from hardening, it is thoroughly washed with water after work.

Application technology

Varnish compositions are capricious and require compliance with conditions during glaze work.

Application conditions:

The air temperature for applying acrylic varnish for decorative plaster is limited to +10°C to +35°C, humidity – 80%.
For polyurethane varnish, the air temperature is from +18°C to +25°C, the optimal humidity is 55-60%.
The area where paint and varnish work is to be carried out is protected from drafts and sunlight.
The temperature of the varnish composition is from +13°C.

Varnishing

Each type of paint and varnish material is suitable for certain types of colors.

If the color contains organic pigments, these colors are not suitable for facade work. The varnish color is added gradually to the container with the varnish material, stirring the composition after adding a portion of the color so that the dye is completely dissolved. When the material is the desired shade, it is checked by doing a test dye. The volume of varnish composition required to cover the entire wall is tinted immediately (with a small margin).

The saturation of the shade when tinting with varnish depends on the number of varnish layers applied and their thickness. On smooth surfaces, the overlap of adjacent varnish stripes without shading will be noticeable when dry. Therefore, working with tinted varnish material is more difficult.

Professionals do not advise beginners to immediately use LCS in organic solvents. It is better to master glaze work on water-soluble materials, which take longer to dry and are easier to color and apply.

In addition to color, varnish compositions are enriched with glitter, metal dust and mother-of-pearl. Everything is simpler here, just mix. Such compositions, diluted with water, are often stirred during operation. Decorative paints and varnishes are final, that is, finishing coatings.

DIY stain

You can make your own toning liquid at home without using expensive ingredients using plants, coffee and chemical ingredients.

Stains based on plant components

Light wood is given a red tone using onion peels. It is necessary to prepare a strong decoction from it, which is applied to a wooden surface. You can add the decoction to brown beans.

Products made from birch, coated with a decoction of larch bark, will take on a red tint.

The walnut solution will stain the wood brown. Slightly rotten nut shells must be dried in a dark place. And after that it should be ground into powder and made a decoction. The finished broth needs to be filtered and soda added.

How to make stain from walnut shells

After painting the wood with walnut mortar, the surface can be further treated. For example, potassium dichromate diluted in water will give the wood a red tint. A gray tint will be obtained if you paint the wood with diluted vinegar.

The brown color will be more beautiful if you mix nut shell powder with ground willow and oak bark, as well as alder catkins. These components must be mixed with 1 tsp. baking soda, add water and cook over low heat for a few minutes. The stain you make yourself must cool, and then you need to strain it. Instead of nut shells, you can use oak or apple bark.

An infusion of buckthorn fruits, especially unripe ones, will give the tree a yellow tint, and added alum will enhance it.

The bark of trees, such as oak or alder, can tint a wooden surface black.

Stains from tea, coffee and vinegar

Tea contains the component theanine, which perfectly colors the wood in various shades, which is influenced by the concentration of the brew.

Ground coffee beans mixed with baking soda also tint wood products in different colors. And a strong concentration of instant coffee is used instead of stain.

A vinegar solution will give the wood a red tint. In glass containers, degreased metal parts, such as nails, are filled with acetic acid.

The nails are infused for 1-7 days in a darkened room. The more they are in the acid, the richer the color will be. Wood tinting must be done outdoors or in a well-ventilated area. It's just that the vinegar mixture has a pungent odor.

A vinegar-based DIY wood stain can turn ordinary wood into ebony. It is enough to add highly concentrated theanine (oak or walnut bark) to it, which will paint the tree anthracite black.

Oak bark as a raw material for making stain

The tree will become cherry-colored from potassium permanganate or, in common parlance, potassium permanganate. It should be diluted in warm water. The basic proportion is 50 g of potassium permanganate per liter of water, but it can be varied to achieve a dark brown color, close to black. Do-it-yourself stain is applied with a brush as soon as it is prepared. And after 5 minutes it should be wiped with a damp sponge. The wooden product can be re-processed if necessary.

It should be taken into account that potassium permanganate fades, so it must be covered with protective solutions.

Contains chemicals

The juice from wolfberries in combination with various acids can color the tree not only black, but also in different shades. If you add baking soda to the juice, the color will turn blue. Glaubert salt will give a scarlet tint, and copper sulfate will give a brown tint.

Oak and other woods with high levels of theanine can be toned to brown tones by covering them with slaked lime. A nut treated with lime will acquire a brownish-greenish tint.

There is another way to color wood using theanine. The wooden product must first be coated with a composition of 75 g of soda ash or 35 grams of carbonate dissolved in 1 liter. water. When the surface is dry, it is covered with a solution consisting of 50 grams of theanine and a liter of water. After an hour, the color of the stain will appear.

Yellow, brown and reddish shades

Light wood will acquire a yellowish tint if it is treated with a decoction of barberry root and 2% alum. Instead of barberry root, you can use poplar shoots. Then the color will become even more saturated. This decoction must be prepared a week before dyeing. It is prepared in this way: 150 g of poplar shoots must be boiled in a liter of water, then add alum and boil for another hour. The broth should be strained and allowed to brew. After a week you can use it.

The same decoction of poplar shoots will also give a green tint if you add a strong decoction of oak bark to it. The same effect is created by a mixture of vinegar with 60 grams of verdigris powder. The mixture is boiled for about 15 minutes and then covered with wood. Planed products will not immediately acquire the required shade. They should be soaked in the mixture.

In rare cases, the wood should be gray in color. A similar effect can be achieved by mixing one part each of water and vinegar, and placing rusty nails or other small metal objects in this mixture. But first you need to give a little time for the mixture to infuse. And then dip the wood in stain and wait until it acquires the desired color.

If you want to get a darker tone of oak wood, use ammonia mixed with water. This DIY stain should not come into contact with mucous membranes or skin. Therefore, painting work should be carried out outdoors. It must be taken into account that the liquid quickly loses its properties, so the work must be fast. You can also make stain in small portions.

A small wooden product that can be placed in a tightly sealed glass or ceramic container. Place an open container with the mixture there. After a couple of hours, the product can be taken out.

When the wood is painted the desired color, the solution should be washed off.

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Recipe for making varnish for decorative plaster

Making decorative varnish yourself from scratch is a difficult task. It is easier to improve purchased water-based material. How to prepare a decorative composition with glitter for decorative plaster with your own hands is shown in the video.

A too glossy surface of a decorative coating is not always appropriate because it is unnatural. Where the eyes need to be rested, glossy surfaces are unnecessary. A simple technique will help to dull the gloss - diluting the varnish composition with water 1:1. The proportion of water is often smaller - one tenth or one third of the weight of the varnish.

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Advantages over wax

Another glaze composition for decorative plaster is wax. Wax compounds, such as those used for Venetian plaster, also protect the plaster finish by forming a durable film. They are applied to the wall in the same way as varnishes, but there are differences between these two types of coatings.

If the layer is unevenly distributed, the transparent varnish does not form dark spots like wax;
The wax film is less durable;
The wax film can only be removed by sanding, while the varnish film is washed off with a solvent;
Varnish coating is more durable but more expensive.

Care of the treated surface

The main problem with varnished walls is dust settling. A vacuum cleaner can be used to remove dust. Wet cleaning with a sponge and soapy water is also allowed. The walls are cleaned with the preparations specified in the instructions for the varnish.

Manufacturers of LKS produce products for the care of varnished surfaces:

Clinker concentrators are used 1-2 times a week;
Removers for removing heavy dirt;
To renew the varnish, polishes are used 3-4 times a year;
Reducers based on polyurethane dispersion (no more than once every six months).

Removing varnish from the surface and correcting application errors

Small flaws can be corrected by waiting 3 days to allow not only the surface of the film to dry, but also the deeper areas of the varnish. Small drips can be carefully cut off with a chisel by turning the tool with the chamfer facing up. Having cut off the scum, it is allowed to dry for a day. Then the coating is sanded with No. 320 sandpaper and the plaster is coated with varnish.

Around the gaps, the surface is sanded without touching the missed area, and varnish is applied, reducing the thickness towards the edges. A day later, after lightly sanding for leveling, a thin layer of glaze material is applied. If the surface has not yet completely hardened, you can correct the mistake by washing out the blemish with a solvent and glazing the area again.

Glazing a decorative plaster coating is a job that is often performed by beginners. To prevent the result from becoming a source of disappointment, you should follow the instructions and follow the advice of professionals. Then you will succeed, and brilliantly executed walls will be a source of joy for many years.

Main stages of work

Varnishing work is carried out in 6 stages.

Stage 1. Cleaning

After sanding and sanding are completed, the parquet needs to be dust-free.

To do this, the surface is cleaned with a construction vacuum cleaner or wiped with a damp microfiber cloth.

Stage 2. Priming or tinting

Primers or tinting compounds are applied with a roller or brush with wide movements in one layer. Drying time is at least 24 hours.

Stage 3. Elimination of visible defects

If there are small cracks, fallen knots, dents and other damage, they need to be filled with ready-made parquet putty (Dulux, Sadolin) or you can purchase a liquid for preparing tinted putty (Lega Stucco, Vidaron) and mix it with fine sawdust.

The result will be a composition that will match the color of the parquet planks. Craftsmen use ordinary PF series varnishes or PVA glue for the same purposes. The latter melts during grinding and begins to stretch, which has an adverse effect on the sander.

After eliminating the defects, the putty must be sanded in a circular motion with fine-grained paper 320-440 units to eliminate roughness. Dust is removed with a damp cloth.

Stage 4. Applying 1 layer

Apply the first coat of varnish with a brush, roller or spatula in a thin layer and allow to dry for 24-48 hours.

Stage 5. Grinding

At this stage, small wood fibers that were picked up by a brush or roller during the application of varnish are removed.

Sand the surface by hand or with a belt sander, wipe with a damp cloth or clean the surface with an industrial vacuum cleaner.

Stage 6. Application of the second and third layers

Apply subsequent layers of varnish at intervals of 24-48 hours and leave until complete polymerization for 7-14 days. Foot traffic is allowed on the second or third day after varnishing.