Features of operation
Having familiarized yourself with the preparation of the boiler room, the foundation structure, the supply and exhaust ventilation device and the chimney structure, it is important to understand the features of installing a solid fuel boiler.
At the initial stage of work, the packaging is removed from the unit and assembled according to the attached instructions. The boiler is attached to the base so that its outlet coincides with the entrance to the chimney. The model is fixed to the foundation in a strictly horizontal position; a building level is used for this.
The heat generator is connected to the chimney and heating system according to the selected circuit. At the final stage of work, the automation is adjusted, the fan is mounted and the circulation pump is installed.
Installation of a floor-standing gas boiler in a wooden house
Due to their massive size, floor modifications require a special approach to installation in a wooden house. If the owner of a large house decides to install a floor structure, he must take care of this at the stage of building the house, since some boiler designs require the installation of not only a powerful foundation, but also a separate furnace.
In addition, for these devices there are additional requirements for the installation of supply and exhaust ventilation, which must ensure 3-fold circulation in the area where the boiler is located, as well as the presence of doors and windows in the room.
Installation work
The gas floor-standing boiler is connected in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations; the work must be carried out by a specialized service organization that has the appropriate license to carry out such work. The guarantee for boiler equipment and the issuance of permission to connect gas will depend on the fulfillment of this condition. Basic requirements for installing a floor-mounted boiler structure in a wooden house:
- The base for the boiler is made of fire-resistant material, usually reinforced concrete.
- The boiler is placed in such a way that the passage distance between the structure and the wall allows for maintenance of the unit: from the side and rear walls at least 70 cm, in front of the boiler front 1.2 m.
Installation of a chimney
To install the chimney, holes are made: in the wall, ceiling and roof. Their area should be slightly larger than the diameter of the chimney.
A steel metal adapter is installed on the outlet pipe from the boiler to connect to the chimney. After this, a tee and an “inspection” are placed to carry out inspection and cleaning of the gas ducts. In areas where pipes pass through the ceiling and walls, close attention must be paid to fire safety. These areas are insulated with fire-resistant materials.
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The chimney should be located at a slight slope from the wall of the building. This requirement is necessary to remove condensate formed in chimneys due to temperature differences. The design degree, as a rule, is indicated in the factory instructions of the boiler.
The smoke exhaust device is thoroughly secured to the outside of the walls or ceiling covering with clamps every 2 m and brackets every 4 m. A tip must be installed on the exhaust pipe to protect it from external influences of the atmosphere.
Heating system connection
A simpler boiler piping is carried out for single-circuit models; only the supply and return pipelines of the intra-house heating network are supplied to them.
For double-circuit units, among other things, there is also a cold water supply for the DHW system. For efficient and long-term operation of the boiler, it is recommended to install a mud filter or filter to clean the water from sludge and corrosion products before introducing network water into the boiler.
Shut-off valves are installed on the supply and return pipelines in order to prevent air from entering the heating system and to simplify the process of repairing a gas boiler. All connections must be well sealed on the boiler unit.
If the water is too hard, to prevent scale formation on the heating surface of the boiler, install a water descaling filter at the inlet to the boiler.
Next, the automation system sensors, a circulation pump, air vents and an expansion tank are installed at the points specified by the manufacturer and the boiler's thermal circuit diagram.
Connection to the gas main
This stage is carried out only by specialists from the gas supply organization who have a special permit to carry out the relevant work on gas equipment.
A filter must be installed on the internal gas pipeline in order to protect the gas equipment of the boiler from debris and condensate.
Before connecting the boiler safety automatic sensors, new gas pipelines must be purged so that debris does not clog the calibrated channels of the burner device.
A gas meter is installed at the gas fuel inlet into the house, and a shut-off valve is installed in front of the boiler for emergency shutdown of the boiler. Gas equipment is connected with steel gas pipes with threaded connections.
Conducting a trial run
After the connection of the boiler with the heating and gas systems is completed, it is connected to the electrical network. To protect electronic control units from power surges, it is recommended to connect the boiler through a voltage stabilizer.
After completing the installation work, fill the heating circuit with coolant, perform pressure testing of the system with a pressure of 1.5 of the operating pressure in the boiler, but not higher than the indicator specified by the manufacturer. During this stage, the density of the assembled heating circuit is checked.
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The commissioning and first start-up of gas equipment is carried out by a representative of Gorgaz, after positive results of commissioning tests, he issues permission to supply gas to the subscriber, and it will be possible to operate the boiler equipment.
Recommendations for effective operation
During operation of a wood-burning boiler, slag accumulates in the firebox of the system. As these combustion wastes accumulate, they must be removed as they reduce the efficiency of the plant. It is possible to reduce the efficiency by 3% with the formation of a slag deposit 1 mm thick.
The walls of the boiler combustion chamber must be cleaned at least once a week. Along with this, the wheel grilles are cleaned. To get rid of ash and other accumulations, just move the special lever and dump the coals into the ash pan.
Installing a circulation pump allows you to increase the energy efficiency of your heating system. The device will quickly direct water through the system, the liquid returns to the boiler at a higher temperature. This means it will take less time to heat up. The circulation pump is usually located in the return pipe before entering the boiler.
Advice from professionals
Proper operation of gas equipment is not only reliable and durable, but also, above all, the safety of everyone living in a private wooden house. According to existing legislation, the user is responsible for the safe operation of boilers.
Therefore, experts advise boiler owners to adhere to a number of simple rules:
- Carry out periodic maintenance of the unit within the time frame and in the amounts established by the equipment manufacturer, as a rule, at least once a year.
- There is no need to save money on filters. Both the gas pipeline and the heating circuit must be provided with similar protective devices.
- It is unacceptable to use rubber hoses to connect gas.
- During the operation of the boiler, the quality of combustion, draft in the furnace and ventilation in the furnace room are monitored.
If there were previously doubts about installing gas boilers in houses made of timber, then they are a thing of the past. Innovative gas heating today is most suitable for such a facility, since it has reliable automatic protection and a thermal process control system.
All this allows you to completely prevent the creation of emergency and fire hazardous situations in the house.
Design and principle of operation
On the modern market you can find a huge number of models of solid fuel boilers, but their design and operating principle are not very different. Any heating equipment consists of the following parts:
- fuel combustion chamber;
- chimney;
- ash collection chamber;
- coil or heat exchanger.
The simplest models of solid fuel boilers are somewhat reminiscent of a pot-bellied stove. After burning the wood, the flame heats the pipes with water, the liquid is heated and enters the double-circuit heating system. The efficiency of the models is low, and fuel consumption is significant.
Modern units have an improved design and are equipped with automation that regulates the combustion process. After fuel combustion, heated water is supplied to the radiators by a circulation pump. Heating devices give off part of the heat, the liquid is cooled and flows through the return pipe into the boiler. Modern heating systems are often equipped with a closed expansion tank, which prevents water from evaporating when heated.
During the combustion of wood, smoke is produced, which is discharged into the street through the chimney. After some time, soot settles on the walls of this structure, which leads to a decrease in the diameter of the pipe and a deterioration in traction. To clean the chimney from dirt, special openings with dampers are used. Soot is removed from the canal using special brushes or brushes.
Note! To clean the chimney of soot, you can use special solutions that are added to the fuel. They allow the inner walls of the tube to be cleaned during the combustion process.
Automation helps increase the efficiency of a solid fuel boiler:
- the temperature sensor is triggered when the coolant temperature drops and sends a signal to the control panel to turn on the fan;
- the pressure gauge gives a signal when the pressure rises above normal values;
- a safety valve is installed in the system to prevent emergency situations;
- the circulation pump begins pumping water after heating the coolant in the boiler to certain temperature parameters.
The efficiency of the boiler depends on the type of fuel used. If the unit is designed to work on wood, do not use charcoal or pellets. In addition, it is not recommended to use insufficiently dried firewood; it heats up little, but produces a lot of soot and water vapor.
How to properly light a boiler
How to clean soot from a coal boiler
The composition of soot includes a non-combustible residue that turns into slag during the combustion process. An additional problem is that under the influence of high temperatures, low-quality coal leads to increased formation of condensation, an acid that can corrode the metal of the heat exchanger.
Boiler cleaning is carried out in several stages:
- It is necessary to remove the ash from the ash pan, a chamber located immediately under the firebox and which is a spacious box closed with a sealed door. The ash pan is removed and the ashes are poured out.
- Cleaning of slag is carried out with a special tool, the appearance of which resembles a curved awl. Sludge is removed around the perimeter of the heat exchanger and from the grate.
In addition to regular boiler cleaning, measures are taken to prevent increased soot formation. The main reason why the heat exchanger becomes clogged with soot is insufficient combustion temperature of the fuel. Layer-by-layer stacking of firewood mixed with coal can solve the problem of increased soot formation.
How to clean the chimney pipe of a coal boiler
Proper operation of heating equipment includes measures to reduce soot formation in the chimney during boiler operation, as well as regular maintenance and cleaning of pipes. SNiP stipulates the need to carry out routine maintenance at least twice a year.
Pipe cleaning is carried out in the following ways:
Mechanical cleaning method - proper cleaning of chimneys is carried out using a special brush. Flexible plastic rods are mounted on the rod. If necessary, the brush can be extended using flexible bars that can be connected. Cleaning is carried out from the roof. Soot is removed through special inspection wells. The largest layers of soot accumulate on the bends and adapters of the chimney
During cleaning, they receive the most attention. Cleaning chemicals are available as fuel additives. It is enough to place the bag in burning coal to effectively clean the chimney. Chemicals are used as preventive measures and cannot completely replace the need for mechanical cleaning. Reducing soot emissions from coal combustion
Preventing the appearance of soot is the best measure to combat deposits on the walls of the chimney. As a preventative measure, several methods are used. A soot trap is installed, the required coal combustion temperature is ensured, the chimney design is changed and a deflector is installed to improve draft characteristics.
Chemicals are used as preventive measures and cannot completely replace the need for mechanical cleaning. Reducing soot emissions from coal combustion. Preventing the appearance of soot is the best measure to combat deposits on the walls of the chimney. As a preventative measure, several methods are used. A soot trap is installed, the required coal combustion temperature is ensured, the chimney design is changed and a deflector is installed to improve draft characteristics.
All of the above measures are aimed at maintaining the performance of both the boiler itself and the chimney. Acidic condensate leads to rapid burnout of the heat exchanger and chimney.
Proper operation of a coal boiler includes: proper choice of fuel, kindling and maintaining combustion in the chamber, preventing increased soot formation and regular maintenance of the heating unit and chimney.
First start of the heating system
Before turning on the boiler for the first time, the pressure in the system should be approximately 1 atm. Don't forget to open the chimney damper. The feed material is placed on the grate, after which the fuel can be loaded into the combustion chamber. After 10-15 minutes from the moment of switching on, the ignition door must be closed.
The dampers allow you to regulate the volume of secondary air and thereby increase the efficiency of the heating boiler.
Installing a solid fuel boiler is not an easy task, but it can be solved. It is important not only to comply with the requirements of regulatory documents, but also to follow elementary logic. And do not forget to use the successful experience of those who have already dealt with the organization of heating systems based on solid fuel heat generators.
Heating circuit with pump
The forced circulation circuit does not have the disadvantages of the gravitational system. The length of the pipes and their diameter can be any, you just need to install a powerful pump.
Tools and materials
Additionally you will need:
- phase indicator;
- wire cutters;
- stripper (device for removing the sheath from the conductors) or knife.
As for the tools, you will need a phase indicator.
The following materials and products are needed:
- copper wires with a cross-section corresponding to the current consumed by the pump;
- WAGO type terminals or self-insulating clamps;
- dielectric adhesive tape;
- cable box.
In addition to pipes, fittings and radiators, to install the circuit you will need:
- Diaphragm expansion tank. Due to the excess pressure created by the pump, the system is made closed, so the option for gravity heating is not suitable. You need a red membrane tank for process water. Blue for drinking is more expensive.
- Pressure gauge, air vent and safety valve. Together they are called a security group.
- Three-way valve with thermal head.
- Filter.
What to do with condensate
To avoid coolant with a temperature below +50...+55°C entering the boiler tank, causing the formation of acid on its walls, a mixing unit is installed near the heater.
The “supply” and “return” are connected by a jumper to a 3-way valve controlled by signals from a temperature sensor. When the coolant at the inlet to the unit cools below the critical temperature, the valve will change position, and a mixture of hot flow and cold flow will occur.
In this mode, the boiler is also started after a long period of inactivity. Until the coolant warms up, it circulates in a small circle through the jumper.
Instructions
The heating system is assembled according to the following rules:
- DN25 pipes are used; for long circuit lengths, DN32 pipes are used.
- Horizontal sections are laid with a slight slope, necessary only for drainage of the pipeline - 2-3 mm/m.
- They don't make an accelerating manifold.
- The safety group is installed on the side of the boiler supply pipe no further than 0.5 m from it. It is prohibited to place shut-off valves between the heat generator and the devices.
- A pump with a filter and a membrane expansion tank are connected to the “return” so that they operate in gentle conditions at a relatively low temperature.
- The pump is placed between the 3-way valve and the heater.
Heating diagram with a solid fuel boiler with a pump.
It is necessary to provide for the possibility of emergency discharge of excess heat.
For this use:
- a branch with radiators in unheated rooms (for example, in a pantry or on a veranda);
- a coil in the boiler tank, connected to the water supply on one side and the sewer on the other.
An automatically controlled valve is installed on the cooling element, which opens according to a signal from a temperature sensor.
Boiler room and its dimensions
The first thing to consider is that the room should be separated from the living rooms. This problem can be solved in several ways by arranging a boiler room:
- in a room specially prepared for this purpose;
- in a room attached to the house;
- in a mobile module installed near the house;
- in the attic, unless it's an attic.
In addition, the living area does not include the kitchen, which is separated from other rooms by partitions and a lockable door. If this option is preferable, then a wall-mounted (mounted) boiler is purchased, and everything else is arranged so that the result does not contradict the described requirements.
The minimum area of a separate room for a boiler room in a wooden house should be 6 m2. A room with dimensions of, for example, 3 × 2 m or 2.4 × 2.5 m meets these requirements. As a result, the kitchen must have the same minimum area if it is planned to install a heating boiler.
Boiler room arrangement
The first question that needs to be resolved by someone who wants to install a solid fuel boiler in their wooden house is the question of allocating a special room: a furnace room, a boiler room, a boiler room, or, as is more correct from the point of view of the compilers of regulatory documents, a mini-boiler room .
A properly assembled heating system is the key to comfort in your home. For solid fuel boilers, the requirements for room arrangement are not as stringent as for heat generators using liquid fuel or gas. However, there are restrictions and rules on which the efficient, long-term, uninterrupted operation of the equipment and your safety depend.
Separate room
The best option is to plan the location of the furnace at the design stage of the house. But this is not always possible: it happens that the heat generator is installed in a finished house or during the reconstruction of an old home. The room for installing the boiler must be non-residential. It is not recommended to install it adjacent to living rooms, or to place it under stairs or in attics. The furnace room cannot be used as a storage room, cluttering it with things and objects that are not related to the boiler room equipment.
Boiler room. Photo from the site klass.photolandiya.ru For units with a total power (for heating and hot water supply) of less than 150 kW, placement on any floor is possible. If the power of the heating equipment is from 150 to 500 kW, the boiler room can only be located on the first, semi-basement or basement floor, or even better - in a separate extension to the main building, especially if it is a wooden house. An extension for the boiler room is installed on the side of a blank wall, and the distance to window and door openings must be at least 1 m. For the construction and decoration of this auxiliary room, non-combustible materials are used - capable of withstanding fire for at least 45 minutes. The foundation of the boiler room should not be connected to the foundation of the main building. For installation of the boiler, it is possible (recommended) to pour an additional podium with a height of 150-200 mm. The podium area should be no more than 50 mm wider than the dimensions of the heat generator.
Separate mini-boiler room. Photo from econet.ru Think about the option of installing a free-standing boiler room. This may be beneficial from an aesthetic point of view, as well as being more effective for reasons of safety and ease of construction. Boiler rooms located separately from the house can be either full-fledged (accommodating all the equipment) or solely for housing the boiler, and boilers, pumps, automation, etc. are located in the house. Such designs are called modular mini-boiler rooms .
When size matters
The optimal size of the boiler room depends on the selected boiler and other equipment, taking into account convenient maintenance. But its area must be at least 7 m², and its cubic capacity must be 15 m³. This is for boilers with a power of up to 30 kW. If the equipment is more powerful, then add another 0.2 m³ for each kilowatt of power. The ceiling height in the furnace room is at least 2.5 m. How much space to allocate for installing the boiler itself depends on its type and model. If pellets are used as fuel, then it is necessary to take into account the size of the bunker, as well as the method of loading it.
Do not forget to take into account the dimensions of the fuel bunker. For a bunker designed for 400-600 liters, a reserve of space and height is required. To load, you will need to provide a small, stable ladder, since lifting heavy bags over your head is inconvenient. For boilers using sawdust or husks, the method of fuel supply is also important: a circulation or screw agitator takes up more space than a pneumatic supply. In addition, wood waste boilers have a high firebox, and the feed occurs from above. This means that the ceiling height should be higher than standard. There is no need to place the boiler close to the walls; there should be free space around it for service and repair - at least 500 mm. If 2 boilers are used, then the distance between them is at least 1 m. There must be 2 m of free space in front of the device. The manufacturer must indicate the installation requirements in the boiler passport. There may be special recommendations specific to your model, so be sure to read the instructions. In our market, where offers from large online stores are presented, you can choose heating equipment for your home. Go to the selection of solid fuel boilers. Solid fuel boiler Zota “Сarbon-26” RUB 51,990
Stoves here Solid fuel boiler Zota “Pellet”-40S
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Stoves here Solid fuel boiler Zota “Pellet”-63S RUB
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Stoves here Solid fuel boiler Zota “Topol-14M”
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About windows, doors, ventilation, etc.
The boiler room must have an opening window for emergency ventilation and daylight. Its dimensions are also regulated. The window area is calculated as follows: for each cubic meter of boiler room volume there should be 0.03 m² of glazing.
Preparing the boiler room for installation of the unit
Solid fuel boilers with an open combustion chamber should be placed in separate special rooms - boiler rooms. Such rooms are equipped in the basement or ground floor, equipped with an intensive ventilation system to ensure normal operation of the solid fuel unit.
If necessary, fill a special foundation at the site where the heating unit is intended to be installed.
Solid fuel boilers can be installed with your own hands and without coordination with the relevant services. However, during the installation of a solid fuel boiler, a number of rules must be observed.
Therefore, the floor at the installation site of the solid fuel boiler must be made perfectly flat and durable. In most cases, boilers are installed on special slabs made of non-combustible materials.
In some cases, the boiler is placed on a flat concrete screed 50 mm thick
The boiler must be installed at a certain distance from the walls. The distance between the rear wall of the boiler and the wall of the room must be at least 60 cm, and the distance between the wall of the boiler room and the front surface of the boiler must be at least 25 cm.
Before installing the boiler, the walls and floor of the boiler room must be lined with fire-resistant material with a minimum fire resistance of 0.75 hours. For this, you can use metal sheets, basalt cardboard, mineralite or concrete, asbestos.
In addition, the boiler room must be equipped with a supply and exhaust ventilation system. This could be an ordinary window or a hole in the wall. In this case, its area is calculated based on the boiler power: for 1 kilowatt of boiler power there should be 8 square centimeters of ventilation hole.
If the boiler room is equipped only with lighting, it is worth installing sockets powered by 220 V.
If the boiler is located at a distance of less than 38 centimeters from the wall, it is enough to insulate this wall with a sheet of fire-resistant material
Cover the floor with a heat-resistant sheet directly at the boiler installation site so that the protective material protrudes forward 80 cm from the front wall of the boiler. This measure will help prevent a fire if heat leaves the fireplace.
All manufacturers of heating units in the installation instructions for their products recommend laying a foundation for installing the boiler on it. So, if the boiler is of low power, the weight of which does not exceed 200 kg, it can be safely installed on a concrete screed. When positioned correctly, it can easily withstand this type of load.
But to install a unit whose weight exceeds 300 kg, it is advisable to build a base of reinforced concrete screed. In addition, its thickness should be from 10 to 12 cm. If the boiler weighs more than 300 kg, it must be installed exclusively on a base consisting of a separate foundation slab.
Installation of pellet boilers with an electric motor and a pellet auger is carried out on a specially poured foundation to minimize the effect of vibration load on the underlying foundation
Solid fuel boilers can be installed on a wooden floor. However, to begin with, you will have to prepare the installation site with your own hands, having previously reinforced it with logs in the form of logs, the cross-section of which is at least 100x50 mm.
If you plan to install additional heavy equipment in the boiler room, it is impractical to pour a foundation for each unit. In this case, it is much easier to fill the so-called industrial floors, that is, make a concrete screed to a height of up to 12 cm.
In this case, its filling should be reinforced with a diameter of 8 to 14 mm. Then you need to make a dense cushion from crushed stone and put a mesh on top with a window size of 20x20 cm.
The area of the room intended for boiler room equipment must be at least 15 square meters, with a ceiling height of 2.5 meters
According to the method of connecting the boiler to the chimney: through the roof or through the wall, it is necessary to design the location of the hole through which the chimney pipe will be discharged, and make it. In addition, its internal diameter must match the diameter of the outlet of the solid fuel unit or be slightly larger.
Wood boiler installation instructions
Regardless of what type of TT boiler you bought - direct combustion, pyrolysis or pellet, the installation procedure remains the same and consists of the following steps:
- Selecting a specific location in a private house for placing a heat generator.
- Preparing the premises for installation.
- Supply and exhaust ventilation device.
- Installation of heating unit and chimney.
- Connection to the heating system (piping) and test run.
An ideal boiler room from our expert Vladimir Sukhorukov. Heavy equipment stands directly on the concrete floor
Note. Depending on the model of a wood-burning or coal-fired boiler, it may be necessary to connect to the electrical network.
The first 3 items on the list relate to preparatory work, which does not at all detract from their importance. If you choose the location of the unit incorrectly and do not provide for normal ventilation, then you will have to solve the problems that arise during operation, in the middle of the heating season. So we suggest looking at each point separately.
To correctly select a heat source based on power, we recommend calculating the heating load using a suitable method.
Where is the best place to install a TT boiler?
It is noteworthy that to this day no country of the former USSR has developed a specific regulatory document regulating the installation of solid fuel boilers in private and apartment buildings. The main part of the requirements is set out in SNiP “Heating and Ventilation”, certain standards are found in the document SNiP 31–02-2001 “Single-apartment buildings” (for Russia) and in other scattered acts.
An example of installing a pyrolysis heat generator with convenient access to the expansion tank and chimney
Reference. Many online resources send us to read the huge SNiP “Boiler Installations”, without taking into account that its effect extends to heat generators with a capacity of over 360 kW (clause 1.2). Others suggest that we follow the rules for gas heaters. Both options are wrong: the requirements for the placement of domestic TT boilers are not so stringent.
We analyzed the regulatory documentation regarding the placement of wood-burning hot water heaters, added to them the practical experience of our experts and compiled a list of recommendations for the location of the unit:
- The use of firewood, coal and even briquettes with pellets involves increased dust, and during the combustion process smoke enters the room in different quantities. Therefore, it is extremely undesirable to install a boiler in the house, although the norms allow placement in the kitchen, hallway and other rooms except bedrooms.
- The best places for a solid fuel heat generator: a boiler room on the street (separate or attached to an existing building), a technical room inside the house, a basement or garage. The last option is a well-ventilated corridor.
A good solution is to attach a solid fuel boiler room made of foam blocks to the wall of a residential building - It is advisable to install the unit closer to the external wall, so as not to lay a long horizontal section of the chimney or bring it out through the ceilings.
- To maintain and clean the heat exchanger of a TT boiler, ensure access to it from the right sides. Ideally, there should be at least 1 m of free space in front, and 60 cm on the sides and back (minimum 25 cm).
Installation diagram with permissible distances to the walls and ceiling of the boiler room - Do not expect to connect the flue duct of a wood-burning heater to brick ventilation ducts inside the walls, this is strictly prohibited.
Advice. Before purchasing and installing a long-burning boiler of the Stropuva type, compare its height with the premises. Consider the location of other large equipment - a heat accumulator, a buffer tank and an indirect heating boiler.
When there is not enough space in the furnace room, the boiler is installed closer to the wall to provide passage.
In small furnace rooms, move the boiler with the unattended side to one of the walls (minimum distance - 10 cm), and leave an opening at the back with a width of at least 250 mm, as shown in the photo .
About preparing the premises
What needs to be done before installing a TT boiler in the intended room of the house:
- provide a foundation and, if necessary, cast a concrete foundation;
- punch holes in the wall for the chimney and ventilation;
- walls and floors built from flammable materials should be protected from fire with sheets of metal, asbestos cement, basalt cardboard or mineralite.
Recommendation. If only lighting is provided in the furnace room, then connect an electrical line from the electrical outlet there. You will still have to power the circulation pump, or even the automation of the new heat generator.
An example of protecting wooden partitions and the floor next to a wood-burning boiler.
It is not necessary to tear off the wooden lining of the walls and floor. If the boiler is moved closer to a combustible wall than 38 cm, cover the latter with one of the materials listed above. Place the same sheet on the floor below and in front of the TT boiler with a protrusion of 80 cm. This is protection against heat particles flying out of the open door.
Regarding the foundation required by all manufacturers in the operating instructions, we will give the following recommendations:
- Low-power heaters weighing up to 200 kg can be safely placed on a cement screed. If it is designed correctly, it will withstand such a load without any problems. The Atmos 90 kW pyrolysis boiler with a cast iron heat exchanger must be placed on a reinforced concrete base
- Installation of a solid fuel boiler weighing up to 300 kg will require a reinforced concrete screed 10-12 cm thick, and over 300 kg - a separate foundation slab.
- Pellet heat generators equipped with a feed auger and an electric motor exert a vibration load on the base. This means that the foundation shown in the diagram needs to be cast.
Finishing
According to the requirements of regulatory documents, the floor must be leveled and the walls covered with a layer of plaster. It is advisable that the lower part of the room be waterproof. This will minimize the negative consequences of a possible accident in the heating system.
During finishing work, it is also possible to further increase the heat/sound insulation properties of the room, which will serve as a boiler room. For this purpose, it is allowed to use PVC panels or TIM reflective panels.
Additional recommendations
To prevent the heat exchanger from becoming overgrown with scale, fill the system only with demineralized water. Often homeowners collect rainwater for these purposes.
For the same reason, it is better to purchase a model with a cooling coil in the heat exchanger, and not with water supplied directly to the tank.
Do not smoke in a house with an aluminum radiator system. Hydrogen is formed in them, which comes out through an air vent or Mayevsky valve.
During the period of inactivity of the heater, the heat exchange in its tank takes on the opposite direction. To ensure that the water in the circuit cools more slowly, it is recommended to create a bypass with taps through which the medium will move around the device.
By the way, it’s not difficult to make a solid fuel boiler with your own hands.
Ventilation
The key to correcting fuel combustion in TT equipment is reliable, high-quality natural supply and exhaust ventilation, calculated taking into account the power of the boiler system and the size of the combustion chamber. In most cases, for boiler equipment with a power of up to 35 kW, it is enough to arrange:
- entrance with grille, cross-section 300/300 mm at the bottom of the wall opposite the boiler)
- drain pipe with a grate, cross-section 400/400 mm, at a height of no more than 30 cm from the ceiling.
Important! A supply and exhaust ventilation system in the boiler room is mandatory - during the combustion of fuel, a vacuum is created, which is compensated by the supply air. An exhaust hood is needed to remove combustion products that have entered the combustion chamber.
Let's digress a little, because we want to inform you that for fashion we have compiled a rating of solid fuel boilers. You can learn more from the following materials:
Ventilation device in a room with a boiler
When there is little fresh air, the fuel combustion process will be difficult. If it is supplied in excess, the combustion process of solid fuel becomes difficult to control.
If the supply of fresh air is difficult, it is necessary to build a ventilation system.
Ventilation is necessary in order to:
- ensure the supply of fresh air at the level necessary to maintain the combustion process in the boiler furnace;
- remove solid fuel combustion products that accidentally escape from the furnace into the boiler room;
- ensure that an adequate volume of fresh air is supplied.
Such simple measures will help you operate your solid fuel boiler safely and efficiently for a long time.
To ensure complete removal of combustion products, a natural or mechanical ventilation system must be installed in the boiler room. The ventilation process must be at a sufficient level
As for the actual arrangement of the ventilation system for the boiler room, the following tips are designed to help you build it correctly. Firstly, the exhaust and supply openings must be located at different ends of the boiler room.
It is advisable to place the exhaust hole closer to the roof, and the supply channel should be located in the lower part of the room, in close proximity to the solid fuel boiler itself.
Secondly, it is not advisable to install an exhaust device near a heat generator, the design of which includes a fan (supercharger) or a smoke exhauster.
In this case, during operation of the turbine, the draft in the air duct will forcibly change the direction of the air flow, and the air that should go into the exhaust will be again supplied as an influx into the boiler room.
If the entrance to the boiler room is equipped directly through the door from the living room, it would be advisable to install a supply grille in the lower part of the door. The influx of warm air from the living space will increase the thermal output from the burned solid fuel.
Considering that most of the supply air ends up directly in the combustion chamber of the boiler, where it reacts with carbon released as a result of the combustion of solid fuel, and then comes out in the form of carbon dioxide, the exhaust hole should have a smaller diameter than the inflow hole.
Scheme of the optimal location of a solid fuel boiler in relation to sources of air flow into the boiler room
The best option would be to install the boiler closer to the external walls. This will avoid the hassle of laying a long horizontal chimney duct, especially in cases where it has to be discharged through the roof.
Common boiler room layout diagrams and technical room design rules are given here.
How to install foundations for fireplaces and stoves
If small fireplaces and chamber stoves are installed, up to 750 kg, it is necessary to strengthen the floor underneath them. This can be done by installing additional beams on brick pillars. If these structures are more massive, they must be built on separate foundations.
What foundations are needed for stoves and fireplaces?
The strength of the soil under the house depends on the reliability of the entire structure. If the pores in the soil are enlarged (macroporosity), the foundation is at risk of weakening. The most favorable and reliable soils are sandstone, limestone and rocks. These are rocks that are not subject to compression and the effects of groundwater. If the land is suitable for building a house, then, of course, it is suitable for building a fireplace.
The foundation of the furnace is equipped in the same way as the foundation of a house, with all its features. The foundation base for a fireplace or stove rests directly on the ground. Depending on the purpose and design of the heating system, the foundation is lowered to a certain depth. If a one-story stove or fireplace is being built without overhead pipes, a depth of half a meter will be sufficient.
when installing root or above-ground pipes, it is necessary to increase the depth of the foundation by another quarter of a meter. Well, if you build two-story heating structures, the foundation will be deepened by one meter.
The bottom of the foundation basin is leveled strictly horizontally. Then the cushion is equipped with small stones and broken bricks, without grout. After laying the foundation of the first row, a liquid solution is poured, followed by careful leveling of the surface. When the first row is completely dry, additional masonry work is carried out.
What materials should be used to construct the foundation for fireplaces and stoves?
The foundations of the chimney and stove are built from ordinary brick, concrete monolith or crushed stone.
- A brick foundation is most suitable on dry soil. In this case, masonry can be done with lime mortar. If the ground is wet, be sure to use cement mortar for masonry.
- You can also use ready-made foundation blocks to equip stoves and fireplaces.
To impart strength to the masonry of the foundation base of the heating structure, it is necessary to carry out mandatory bandaging of the seams.
If the foundation is stone, then larger stones are laid on the base of the foundation, and the spaces between the stones are filled with crushed stone. Zabutka is made with stones of different fractions.
The solution for filling them is made more liquid than the outer masonry. The last two rows are placed on plasticine, having previously leveled the surface. Laying the foundation ends before reaching the floor by about seven centimeters. Waterproofing is laid on it in two layers and the main laying of the stove or fireplace begins. The laying of fireplaces and stoves is in no way connected with the laying of walls, since the load on their foundations is not the same, and their draft is different. If the masonry is ligated, the mantle becomes distorted, resulting in cracks, which may then lead to destruction of the heating structure.
Mostly, fireplaces are installed against a wall, further protecting it from high temperatures. The main thing is that there is a gap between the main and chimney foundations, which is usually filled with ordinary sand.
Dear readers of the boiler-heating site, we have built the foundation for a fireplace or stove, now we just have to learn how to lay the stove with our own hands.
Main characteristics
Important elements of the house that need to be taken into account when choosing such heating are:
- Floor material. As a rule, the floor is made of boards, plywood or OSB, which are laid over the foundation beams. Such a base is quite movable, which eliminates the possibility of installing a water-based underfloor heating system, because it must be mounted with a screed.
- Insulation of walls and windows. Basically, such surfaces are made of logs or beams, which have a high level of thermal insulation. The coldest place is considered to be the opening, both window and door. That is why heating of a wooden house should be centralized in such places.
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It is also important to note that a large amount of heat is also lost through the roofing areas, so the surface of the floor and attic should also be carefully insulated.
Moreover, a material such as wood has good flexibility, which allows the entire system of pipes and air vents to be installed without much interference.
Build process
The process of creating a boiler includes several stages. When manufacturing each element, it is worth taking into account the special operating conditions of the product being manufactured.
Cut a section from a thick-walled pipe with a diameter of 100 mm, the length of which will be equal to the height of the firebox. We weld a bolt to the bottom. Cut a circle of the same diameter as the pipe or larger from a sheet of steel. We make a hole in a circle sufficient for the passage of the bolt welded to the tube. We connect the circle and the air tube by tightening the nut on the bolt.
As a result, we get an air supply tube, the lower part of which can be closed by a freely moving metal circle. During operation, this will allow you to regulate the intensity of firewood combustion and, accordingly, the temperature in the room.
Using a grinder and a metal disk, we make vertical grooves about 10 mm thick in the pipe. Through them, air will flow into the combustion chamber.
Housing (firebox)
The housing will require a sealed lower cylinder with a diameter of 400 mm and a length of 1000 mm. The sizes may vary, depending on the available space, but sufficient for stacking firewood. You can use a ready-made barrel or weld the bottom to a thick-walled steel cylinder.
Sometimes heating boilers are made with gas cylinders to increase service life.
Chimney
In the upper part of the body we form a hole for exhaust gases. Its diameter must be at least 100 mm. We weld a pipe to the hole through which the exhaust gases will be discharged.
The length of the pipe is selected based on design considerations.
Connecting the housing and the air supply device
A hole with a diameter equal to the diameter of the air supply pipe was made in the lower part of the body. We insert the tube inside the case so that the fan extends beyond the bottom.
Cut a circle from sheet metal 10 mm thick, the size of which is slightly smaller than the diameter of the body. We weld a reinforcing handle or steel wire.
This will greatly simplify the subsequent operation of the boiler.
Convection hood
We make a cylinder from sheet steel or cut out a piece of pipe, the diameter of which is several centimeters larger than the outer diameter of the furnace (body). You can use a pipe with a diameter of 500 mm. We connect the convection casing and the firebox to each other.
This can be done using metal bridges welded to the inside surface of the casing and to the outside surface of the oven if the gap is large enough. With a smaller gap, you can weld the casing to the firebox around the entire perimeter.
Cut a circle from a steel sheet with the same diameter as the hearth, or a slightly larger size. We weld handles to it using electrodes, wire or other available means.
Considering that the handles can become very hot during operation of the boiler, it is recommended to provide special protection made of material with low thermal conductivity.
Legs
To ensure long burning, we weld the legs to the bottom. They must be high enough to raise the wood-burning boiler above the floor by at least 25 cm. For this, you can use various rolled products (channels, angles).
Congratulations, you have made your own wood burning boiler. You can start heating the house. To do this, simply load the wood and light it by opening the lid and radiator disc.
Although science and technology have come a long way, there is no denying that the use of household appliances such as wood boilers for heating homes is still widespread.
Most models of modern wood-burning boilers today combine two elements: a traditional source of thermal energy - wood, as well as a steam heating system, which came into use relatively recently - 100-150 years ago.
For city dwellers, this pursuit of ancient traditions in the form of wood-burning boilers may seem strange. However, the same cannot be said about villages and cities. After all, there is no gas network, the electricity is cut off and it will be expensive to pay the bills. It is in this case that wood-burning boilers for heating a house will become the only salvation for people in the cold season.
What coal is best to heat a boiler?
The manufacturer initially carries out thermal calculations and adapts the design of the combustion chamber and heat exchanger to the specific type of fuel. Therefore, in order to increase the efficiency of a household boiler, it is enough to use coal of the grade and fraction specified in the operating instructions.
What brand of coal to burn?
Coal contains carbon and non-combustible impurities, which form ash and slag after combustion. The ratio between carbon and impurities depends on the type of fuel chosen. Coal has (depending on the brand) different degrees of moisture, loose or hard structure, and age of formation.
To effectively heat a coal boiler, you need to have a good understanding of the characteristics that distinguish this or that type of fuel:
Lingite – this type of fuel has a loose structure and a large percentage of ash residue. Lingite is used in industrial power plants. This type of fuel is not suitable for heating a house.
Hard coal – has a calorific value of 5500 kcal/kg. The percentage of carbon is at least 75%. Ash content from 2 to 4%. Most classic-type household boilers are heated with coal. For gas generator type equipment, not suitable due to humidity above 20%.
Brown coal – calorific value is only 3000 kcal/hour. When burned, a large amount of ash residue and coking substances are formed. Humidity is at 50%. Brown coal is not recommended for heating domestic boilers, due to the rapid clogging of the chimney and heat exchanger.
Anthracite – the humidity threshold is within 7%. It has high specific heat values, equal to 9000 kcal/hour. The share of ash carried away by gases from the coal boiler is no more than 7%. Manufacturers of heating equipment recommend heating gas-generating boilers with Anthracite. Coal is divided into several grades according to size: fist, nut, seed.
Is it possible to burn with coal briquettes?
Coal briquettes are made by pressing small fractions (dust). Special organic or mineral compounds are used as a binding element. The latter greatly increase the ash content of the fuel, but are cheaper. The most popular are coal briquettes, in which coal tar acts as a binder.
Heating with compressed coal has the following advantages:
- Easy to install in the combustion chamber.
- Good flammability.
- High calorific values, identical to anthracite.
- Easy storage and transportation - briquettes have a regular geometric shape, so they are easier to store and take up less space.
The only disadvantage of compressed coal is its high cost, which is approximately one third higher than the price of lump raw materials. The advantage is the ability to fire the boiler on coal, without contamination by combustion products.
How to burn with coal dust
The safest and most effective method of burning dust is considered to be using a special burner device.
Is it possible to burn with charcoal?
With all these advantages, charcoal has one serious drawback. The cost of a kilogram of purchased charcoal will cost almost 2 times more than the cost of hard coal. You can somewhat reduce the cost of raw materials by establishing its independent production. To obtain 1 ton of charcoal, you will need to burn about 10 m³ of wood.
We install the heat generator and chimney
Therefore, installing a heating boiler on the floor or foundation is not difficult - the unit must be installed in the design position and aligned vertically using adjustable legs or metal supports. It is not necessary to carefully monitor the evenness of the chimney and the holes in the wall: they can be connected without problems by turning your knees.
Important point. To avoid problems with condensation during operation, it is strongly recommended that the chimney of a wood-burning stove be assembled from insulated pipes - a sandwich. The second option is to make a chimney with your own hands - take an ordinary pipe and line it with basalt fiber.
Sandwich pipes for factory and homemade fireplaces
The easiest way is to mount an externally mounted chimney. That is, attach the pipe vertically to the wall and connect the chimney from the TT boiler through a tee. In a wooden house, passage through an external wall or ceiling to the roof exit is carried out in compliance with fire safety rules using the following technology:
- Cut a square hole in the partition 38 cm larger than the internal chimney on each side. For example, if the diameter of the air duct is 100 mm and the thickness of the sandwich insulation is 5 cm, then the size of the opening will be 100 + 380 x 2 = 860 mm.
- Install a box-shaped galvanized steel pass-through assembly.
- Insert a sandwich tube and fill the void with basalt wool.
- Attach the outer cover of the unit.
Note. The chimney is laid across a brick or foam block wall using a steel sleeve and gasket.
Installation and connection diagram of the chimney from the sandwich side
Below we list the requirements that must be observed when installing a chimney:
- number of pipe turns - no more than three, minimum height (per boiler grate) - 5 m;
- sections (modules) are connected to each other in such a way that condensate can drain inside the pipe, and rain can drain outside;
- mount the horizontal part with a slight slope towards the heat generator;
- install an inspection hatch and a condensate collector at the bottom;
- to avoid crossing the roof eaves, surround it with a pipe using two elbows at an angle of 30°;
Drawing of a chimney laid by a boiler inside a house with an exit through the roof
- wall brackets should not coincide with the joints of the chimney sections;
- Place a cone-shaped hood or a rotating weather vane on the chimney head.
The correct installation and assembly of a modular chimney is reflected in two connection diagrams, which show external and internal installation through the ceiling.
The minimum height of the pipe head depends on the distance to the roof ridge
Important note. Make sure that the chimney head does not fall into the windbreak zone of your home or a neighboring home's roof. To maintain a stable draft, raise the hose to the level shown in the picture above.
Basic fire safety rules
- Firstly, it is necessary to carefully protect the surface on which the boiler will be installed from fire. The best option is galvanized steel and asbestos substrate. It is also important to take into account that the dimensions of the substrate and stand should be 10 centimeters larger than the heating system itself around the entire perimeter.
- Secondly, all other electrical appliances must be located at a distance of at least 30 centimeters from the boiler itself. All electrical wiring should not be carried out above or below the boiler, since such an insulation system will quickly fail under the influence of hot air.
- Thirdly, the diameter of the chimney must correspond to the pipe on the gas boiler, and also have three bends, but no more. The section type should be round, stainless steel is selected as the material.
- Fourthly, the chimney opening must be larger than the chimney itself. This will make it possible to lay an additional layer of insulation using asbestos or a piece of cement-asbestos pipe, which will reduce the level of heating of gas combustion products.
- Fifthly, the gas boiler must be located in a separate room with an area of 4 m2, and it must also have a door, the width of which must be 80 centimeters, and a window.
- And finally, sixthly, the height of the chimney should exceed the height of the roof by 50 centimeters.
Installation and installation of a solid fuel heating boiler - step-by-step guide
All home heating boilers that run on solid fuel are significant in weight and large in size, so they are always installed on the floor. However, this equipment can be installed independently without obtaining special permits. The only condition is to take care of the safety and ease of operation of the solid fuel boiler. How to install solid fuel heating boilers in a private house and connect them to a common system will be discussed later in the material.
Firewood quality
The best firewood for a solid fuel boiler has always been oak firewood. Due to its high quality, these raw materials belong to the elite class. The cost of oak firewood is high, so it is not affordable for everyone. But such firewood is often indispensable when it comes to the taste of baked bread, pizza or other pastries. Here oak logs are simply irreplaceable.
Let's look at the characteristics of firewood from different types of wood:
- Oak: an elite, expensive variety. Burns powerfully, giving off a huge amount of heat;
- Birch: Best quality/cost ratio;
- Alder: excellent firewood, the house warms up quickly. In addition, the ancestors considered alder firewood to be “medicinal”, since in a house heated with its help, people were less likely to get colds;
- Pine: hot and aromatic firewood that burns well due to its resin content.
Advantages and disadvantages
Before you begin installing a solid fuel boiler in a wooden house with your own hands, you need to become familiar with the strengths and weaknesses of the unit.
The main advantages of the equipment in question include:
- Heating works when the electricity is turned off - just open a special tap and immediately start the coolant.
- Fuel is cheap, almost free, especially for people living near the forest.
- Easy installation of a wall-mounted boiler in a wooden house.
- Low price of equipment.
In addition to the advantages, the scheme with a solid fuel boiler using wood has a number of disadvantages:
- significant mass of the unit, since cast iron is used for its manufacture;
- a person must constantly care for the boiler, adjust its operation as necessary, for example, during a power outage;
- increased fuel consumption, soft wood produces little heat when burned;
- low efficiency, no more than 80%;
- large unit size.
Many owners install a wall-mounted gas boiler in a wooden house, but this is only possible in the immediate vicinity of the gas network. Most owners of private country houses use a solid fuel wood boiler to heat their homes. His installation has its own nuances.
What parameters should you pay attention to when choosing
When heating a house with a solid fuel boiler, you need to pay attention to the following points:
- Boiler power. The larger your room, the more powerful the boiler you need.
- What material is it made of? As a rule, this concerns the presence of electronic control mechanisms and the heat exchanger material - cast iron or steel. It is impossible to say which is better - cast iron or steel. Because everyone has their own advantages and disadvantages. Cast iron boilers consist of several sections that can be replaced individually. Cast iron is a very durable metal and resists corrosion and other pests. And its combustion process is longer. One of its disadvantages is that it is afraid of temperature changes (cast iron bursts due to strong and sudden changes). A steel boiler can easily withstand any temperature changes. But unfortunately, it does not fight corrosion well.
- Electricity use. There are boilers that operate both from the network and without electricity. In the second case, this boiler needs supervision from time to time during its operation.
- Type and fuel. Here, of course, you need to depend on the fuel you are going to use. The types of boilers are described a little higher.
- How much fuel does it consume?
- How the fuel material is loaded (self-loading or manual loading).
- Efficiency The better the boiler operates and produces maximum energy, the higher its quality.
Main and additional boiler
When installing a backup (emergency) boiler, it is recommended to increase the area of the boiler room by 4 m². An additional heater helps maintain the coolant temperature, avoiding accidents in the event of failure of the main unit or when fuel runs out. Design options:
- Electric. Installed separately or in the form of combined models - heating elements are built into a solid fuel or liquid fuel boiler, which automatically turns on when the coolant cools down;
- Solid fuel or liquid fuel. They can integrate a gas boiler or work “in pairs”: the oil heater starts when coal or wood runs out;
- LPG. Many people leave the gas tank after connecting the main gas - liquid fuel is stored in the gas tank for years and used as needed. Its power ensures that in the event of a pipeline accident, the house will not run out of heating.
An additional boiler is installed in a finished boiler room or separately. If main gas is used as the main energy carrier, then when installing additional equipment in the same room, you must be guided by the requirements of SP 62.13330.2011.
you can integrate your heating equipment into a smart home, connect to a remote control and automatically adjust the temperature based on readings from external weather-compensated sensors.
Convector with gas
The main disadvantage of such a heating system is that it only heats the room in which it is located. So, if there is more than one room in the house, then a gas convector will have to be present in each room, which in turn increases the number of gas cylinders that supply the gas itself.
At the same time, a significant advantage of such a system is its low cost, especially compared to a bimetallic radiator. Moreover, the gas convector does not require the location of additional boilers and pipes. It can even be installed in non-insulated rooms; the heating itself will depend on the power of the convector.
Prices: summary table
Sample | power, kWt | Efficiency, % | price, rub. |
Teplodar Cooper Praktik 14 | 14 | 80 | 20 000–27 000 |
Proterm "Beaver" 20 DLO | 19 | 91 | 79 000–83 000 |
Viadro Ercole U22 D4 | 24 | 80 | 59 000–90 000 |
KENTATSU ELEGANT-03 17 | 17 | 85 | 32 000–36 900 |
Buderus Logano S171-22W | 22 | 89 | 179 000–198 000 |
STROPUVA S20 | winds | 85 | 89 000–110 000 |
The summary table reflects the approach of our manufacturers to the production of wood-fired boilers for heating. The price and characteristics stated in the first position may well suit the villager and not encourage him to experiment with homemade boilers. In our open spaces, such an inexpensive boiler is preferable at a great distance from service centers.
Preparing material and tools
When starting to make a wood-burning boiler with your own hands and trying to complete everything in the shortest possible time, you should take care of the availability of:
- diagrams of the future boiler;
- steel pipes of various lengths, diameters (400, 500, 100 and 150 mm);
- steel sheet with a thickness of at least 4 mm;
- rolled products for making legs;
- two hundred liter barrel;
- heat-resistant mixture used for laying stoves and fireplaces;
- welding machine;
- electrodes of a suitable brand and size. As a rule, electrodes with a diameter of 3–4 mm are used to perform welding work;
- Bulgarians.
Installation: initial work
Installation of a boiler room in the house.
According to the requirements of regulatory documents, it is necessary to provide a grounding loop for the boiler room. To do this, you can use 4 metal pipes, which are pressed vertically into the ground around the perimeter of the boiler room. The pipes are connected using corners by welding. The house is grounded using steel rods, the diameter of which should be 12 mm.
It is necessary to install a sewer drain in the boiler room, which serves as protection when draining the heating system. To do this, you can make a hole (pit) about 0.5 m deep in the floor. To ensure the flow of fresh air to the hood, it is necessary to provide a special hole in the wall. Its dimensions are selected at the rate of 8 cm² per 1 kW of installed power if the air is supplied from the street. If the air comes from other rooms inside the building, there must be at least 30 cm² of ventilation openings per 1 kW of power. It is not allowed to install forced ventilation if the boiler room runs on gas.
Load-bearing walls cannot be connected to existing ones; the boiler room requires the construction of separate and independent walls: even if it is adjacent to the building. If a gas pipeline is used to supply coolant, an inlet sleeve must be provided in the wall through which the main pipe will be laid. The sleeve is fixed in the wall using expanded clay concrete. You can use a 100 * 100mm pipe section as a sleeve. The interior must be insulated. The room requires natural light, at least 0.03 m² of glass per 1 m³ of internal volume.
Mounting the chimney of a wall-mounted boiler
The rules for installing a chimney directly depend on the model of the boiler. Atmospheric units with an open firebox operate on natural draft, and structures with a closed combustion device are connected to a coaxial type chimney, in which simultaneous forced air intake and removal of flue gases occurs using a blower fan.
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The height of the chimney head outlet depends on the distance of the boiler smoke pipe and the location of the ridge or parapet:
- If it is no more than 1.5 m, then the pipe is installed with an elevation of 0.5 m above the parapet/ridge point.
- If the distance is in the range of 1.5-3 m, then its highest point should not be below the parapets.
- If the gap is more than 3 m, the pipe is mounted so that its upper level is located no lower than the line at an angle of 10 degrees from the ridge to the horizon.